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WHAT A WASTE OF TIME DUDE, YOU DIDNT SHOW SHIT.. RE DO YOUR YOUR VIDEO... PRETTY OBVIOUS YOU DIDNT KNOW HOW TO GET IT OUT

I replaced the sensor , and it’s clear on the dash until I a start driving. What would or could be the underlying issue?

Great job!

Am working on a jeep renegade it has PO481 when I turn on the a/c the fan those not turn on I check the fan it’s good and the fuse you think it the fan resistor ?

Mine is nothing like this that top sheild bolt is crazy to get to😢😢

Thanks

Definitely not from a 2011 Buick Enclave. It is not that easy to get to, even with an extension it is impossible to reach. No room to work with

❤❤

Thank you bro.

Did you take the cap off with the new cover to test it? I'd like to see what its supposed to be like for reference

Did yours have a transfer case you took off? Cause mine is almost impossible to get to.

Alright, after successfully completing the drivers side CV axle removal i found the best way to do this is not wasting time spinning the front wheels and prying on it hoping the clip lands a certain way and it pops off. I found that putting a heavy concrete wedge chisel that’s 6-8 inches long and tapers from a point to 3/4”, put that thing between the transfer case and the cv axle and give it a good whack with a 2lbs hammer or mini sledge and it’ll pop right off. Don’t waste your time with any other method if you value your sanity or start drinking at the slightest inconvenience.

So I am fine to drive the car with a faulty aeb system? It wont stall or anything?

Great video man

I couldn’t get my stuck strut fork bolt on the bottom to come out 😭😭

BTW good video. The 1.8 Sonic Ecotec has the same dreared PCV plague, just changed location of it. I need to check mine, idle is erraticaly and loses power on my 11 Aveo, seems similar to 13 Sonic I previously had.

I hate that PCV design. PCV so easy in previous 2004-08 Aveo to service.

Why do they hall have that spot in the door were the paint messes up

Thank you Tim. Appreciate it. May God bless.

Just curious what code everyone got before replacing “Damper Servo Sub-Assembly”. I am getting B1446 on my 2010 Toyota Sequoia. I think this is the part I need to replace. Any thoughts ?

so are you saying you could have just changed sensor instead of the wheel hub and sensor?

Thanks Brother

I have the same problem with that light . I change the sensor but light still on . Now what else can I check ?

Hey. I have 2007 XL7 and once on the motorway it shut the engine and now I have a timing chain fault code. What do you reckon? Is it more likely collision or the sensor?

I have the opposite problem. I didn’t have the P228C DTC until AFTER I changed out the HPFP. Now I’m getting the code, the “Service StabiliTrak” and “Reduced Power” messages. WTF???

Blower motor module is right where those wire plug into. Great video!! I replaced it and the blower motor operates perfectly. Issue I had was the hvac blower motor would not turn off. Blower kept blowing even with the key off. Had to pull the fuse to the hvac.

Great video, I am assuming this is what I need to replace on my 2014. My driver's side heat doesn't blow hot in "sync" mode, just warm. The passenger side is very hot, but the driver's is luke warm. Does that sound like a symptom this part would fix?

I have Nissan qashqai 2021.when I drive sometimes it comes once it comes the line assist and all others things related to camera on the Windshield stop working many time i turned of the car and then turned on again it gone after drive for some km it came back. What is your recommended and what should i do ? Waiting for your cooperation Thank you so much

Easier to remove the fan and take it out via the top.

Did you have to disconnect the a/c lines. Looks like i half too. I have a 2014.

You did the back three

Man, what a pain that was. Thank you for the video!

By any chance a txv could come faulty, I replaced with a new Denso, o-ring, vacuum down system and it held the vacuum test. Recharged back up and i spray with soap/water and is leaking from the top of the valve

If I get the lane assist camera of eBay or something and replace it myself. Does it still need calibration? No wrecks, dealership says it need to be replaced because of it getting so hot when power goes to it but it’s way to much money to have them do it

Great video- just recharged the AC on my 2011 Dodge Charger R/T - cold air was running good for a day then stopped - time to swap out the old compressor for a new one - thanks!

What brand electric ratchet u used for the brake unit i need one the gray one ?

Goodluck everyone… that was the hardest 3 screws if ever had to get to. Thanks for the video though the ac is working again

I just did one last night with the same code and multiple random misfires I put some original AC delco plugs so far it’s smooth

I try this way, but unfortunately, it doesn't work for me.

would this issue prevent the AC compressor from staying on when AC is on?

Job goes a lot faster if you use a plastic canister/funnel like this guy: th-cam.com/video/C0YY4TsWT7c/w-d-xo.html . It is faster, easier this way. Also the system ventilates much better. I taped plastic bottle and used it as funnel.

Good video but you're making me sea sick

Great job thank you for sharing

So this is plug and play there is nothing else to do after the new on is installed?

😂 No E10 you shouldn't be working on Mercedes anyway no cap a long one and a short one

not saw how to remove the power steering resavar and how to remove the bottom bolt and camera sake

$1000 ICC sensor and $200 worth of ADAS calibration here. Guess he left that part out

Is it possible to drive with a faulty sensor or does it affect the ride

You could do that from the bottom and not remove all that stuff that you did. This is like the hardest way possible. I’ve done it.

What's the tool you used to take the belt off please