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@@hcr-motorworks Hey I totally agree that would be a better setup. I could even extend the pony wall up a little bit to give me extra room if I needed it to get the 45’s in. Excellent idea!

Thank you! Siding is from Best Buy Metals. It is their BBM product and the color is HD Charcoal. It is a unique product. Here is the link to the install process if you are interested: th-cam.com/video/NgmLSR_dCq4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9DIzFfGewowm-1kY

You know what? You are correct! I missed 2 numbers. The steel roof install labor was $12873.50 and I missed that in my notes. The number in the video was materials only. I also have another $5583.58 that I wrote down but for the life of me I can’t figure out what that expense was for. Good catch on all of that. My total was correct but I missed those 2 numbers in my notes. Good catch and thank you!

It is definitely a long term commitment. I would of loved to do an off grid homestead. I am not looking forward to the electrical install. I have to deconstruct some of the garage in order to get access to the main panel. Not fun. Thanks for following along on our build and the words of encouragement. We are closer to moving in every day on our builds. Keep after it!

That would save me time and effort. Thanks!

@@Cotronixco I am not an engineer but I believe their main function is to hold the vertical pieces in place (along with the wheel spacers) during the pour and if any vertical cracks appear they would prevent the column from splitting. My engineered plans called for bar going in both directions and what you see is an example of how I complied.

@@ncbarndobuild There should be at least 20 verticals in that tube. Almost all the stress is perpendicular to the vertical.

@@Cotronixco based on the porch kip reactions and soil analysis my engineer wanted what you see. I am not claiming it is right or wrong but merely showing how I complied with the engineered prints. I am not an engineer nor do I claim to be one on TH-cam.

@@brianwhite2262 We had a soil bearing test done on the build site since we had to do some grading. The results showed that the soil bearing capacity was borderline on supporting a slab. However, once we dug down about 2 feet to get through the backfill the bearing capacity increased significantly. So instead of risking a slab crack we laid the footers down below the fill on virgin soil to be sure we met the required 2000 lb per sq. foot soil capacity. Here is a video that shows the test if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/u1xIOqLbWDI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=F2fiUKeDL16xlDVE

I missed that video on your site. Before watching I actually researched the soil type listed in our lot based on the GIS data and it sounds like we may have a similar issue where we need to get a deeper foundation and pier and beam may be needed. We haven’t gotten engineered plans yet so going to do the soil testing first. Thank you!

@@brianwhite2262 It is money well spent in my opinion. Enjoy the build journey and if you need anything else during the process you can always hit me up in the comments section or by email at ncbarndobuild@gmail.com.

@@richdobbs6595 It is extremely important to know what the building code is for your own jurisdiction. What I am doing may not be to code in your area but it is in my area. Not sure what the Sunset book is but if it isn’t based on the code in effect on where you live be very careful following it. Your numbers sound like UPC numbers. I am following the 2018 N.C. Residential building code which is based on the 2015 IPC with N.C. amendments. I will be doing a video on the standpipe plumbing in the near future with all the references from the 2018 N.C. Residential Building Code. Stay tuned!

@@ncbarndobuild I'm dubious. Have you passed inspection on this? The physics and design of washing machines haven't changed. As you said, you are not a licensed plumber, so I'm wondering if you are interpreting the code correctly. I look forward to your video explaining this in detail.

@@richdobbs6595 I have not passed inspection up to this point. The required tests and results will be in the final plumbing rough-in video. Hey, if doubting the outcome keeps you coming back to watch more videos I am ok with that. Thanks for following along!

@@ncbarndobuild I don't suppose you would quote the dimensions that your code allows?

@ I will do you one better. The link below is a link to the 2018 N.C. Residential Building Code. Let me know if you have any issues opening the link. up.codes/viewer/north_carolina/irc-2015

@@neonnblack thanks for following along on the build. I did the shell first because of my work schedule. I am an aviator which means sometimes there are extended periods where I am out of town and cannot work on the project. I did not want the subfloor exposed to the elements for an extended period of time so I decided to construct the shell first and get everything dried in. If I was in a position where I could keep working on the project without large interruptions I would for sure do the floor system first. Setting the walls and putting the roof on would be so much easier. As far as costs I will do a video with a cost breakdown for the shell. Not sure how much if any this type of foundation will save over a slab but I will give you our numbers.

​@@ncbarndobuildgotcha, makes sense on that. Thanks for the reply!

@@dannybradley9346 thanks for following along! Lots more to come on plumbing.

@@tsaipod The door is holding up great. The key is having a large enough roof to keep weather off of it. Rogue Valley won’t warranty any of the door if the roof doesn’t meet their specifications. As you know the wood shrinks and swells with temperature and humidity. During hot and humid summer days the door would swell and you couldn’t open it. Once the heat and humidity lowered it was fine again. Maybe the manufacturer could of done a better job allowing for growth? I had to basically make the door smaller by recessing the hinges further and sanding the edge down so the door would work without rubbing on the latch side. It was a ton of extra work for a very expensive product. The reason we went Douglas fir was to match the Timbers. We wanted a nice front door but didn’t want it to take the focus away from the timber truss.

@@ncbarndobuildthank you. We will have the roof. But the point about swelling I will go with fake then. At my age I don’t need more maintenance. Thanks!

@@tsaipod Rogue Valley Door. It is a solid wood (Douglas Fir) door. Be sure to check out the video of everything I went through with this door. th-cam.com/video/2U1Xbl8dcaA/w-d-xo.html It is probably the last solid wood exterior door that I will ever purchase.

@@ncbarndobuildthanks so much. I subbed and will watch.

@@courtneydickens02 check out this video on the house build. I angled the soffit panels for our timber framed porches. 6/12 roof pitch. If you are steeper than that you may have to do some additional adjustments. Steel Fascia Corner Detail and Angled Soffit Panel Install th-cam.com/video/RMoJGql9KSw/w-d-xo.html

@@ncbarndobuild thank you so much!

I need to definitely do a better job with that.

@@ElitePiers I am all ears let me know what it would cost. I can give you the kip reactions and soil compaction test results if you need them to size the piers. A DIY project with $0 labor costs will be hard to beat.

@@ncbarndobuild I charge $450 ea. That's a 7' lead with a 6x6 simpson post base attached. About 10 minutes to install the pier and have the post base on and ready to build on

@@ElitePiers That’s not bad! I was at $628 for the concrete and with the rebar, equipment rental, sonotube, spacers, and wire ties I came in at about $1200 total. That doesn’t count my running around to pick up supplies or transporting equipment. Sounds like it could be a good alternative! How about the engineering data for the building inspectors and architects? I would need that since I am working off sealed prints.

​@@ncbarndobuildI do all load calcs and torque specs, pre-installation. Send a copy of the minimum torque and loads to the city for approval with the permit application. After installation, a document with the achieved torque and load will be submitted at final inspection. It's really a painless process.

@@ElitePiers Cool, thanks for the info. I will keep this in mind for the shop build after we get the house finished up.

Thanks! This was my first real concrete project so I am still learning but I did a ton of research beforehand. I appreciate the tips and feedback. I am always willing to learn. Here is the link to the video that shows how I attached the Timbers to the foundation if you are interested in the next step. th-cam.com/video/tTmo29Wxc1I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=m7UtJyfv4G3FwhNY

@@dessertbooger9397 By stone work you mean removing the screws? As for the 3 windows that have construction adhesive applied to the cap stones I will probably have to cut the tongue off the bottom and reapply the adhesive or maybe replace those pieces. The steel is also not too difficult to remove. I have a video that shows the removal process when I did the breezeway addition. Timber Frame Breezeway Addition th-cam.com/video/piAnbyTfpxc/w-d-xo.html

@@pcatful I don’t follow. What exactly are you calling the diverter?

@@kpllc4209 Can you move the blade with your hand when the saw is off?

@@ncbarndobuild I think I was going to slow, trying to easy the blade in. A more deliberate chop seems to work allot better.

www.sde-pllc.com/index.html Jeff Swartz is the owner and was great to work with.

Thanks for following along and welcome to the aviation industry! I think what you are doing with a 1940s home is much more difficult than what I am doing.

Thanks for watching!

Probably a good idea. 👍

@@muhammedshafeeq7707 always willing to learn. Please provide your reference that pertains to the residential building code.

Busch is a little more tolerant now that he is back in a Chevy but I feel ya!😂

Thanks for watching and following along on the build. I hope my experience will help you on your project. My connection with Liberty is through Hendrick Motorsports which is my employer. That being said I will also say…Go Flames!

The doors came with what looked like a small wedge but the sticky stuff on the back was so sticky that I ruined the piece trying to get the backer off. I will have to get some replacements. I bet that’s where they were supposed to go. Thanks!

I had to hold back the tears!

Thanks. It was a head-scratcher for a bit on how to attach the end studs but I think it turned out pretty solid.

@@jhippl I am impressed so far.

@@ncbarndobuild have you thought about pouring a 2in fiber reinforced slab down there?

@@jhippl I would have loved to do that! We just didn’t have it in the budget.☹️

Thanks! I like their sawzall blades but never tried their cutting wheels.

The plate beams for the rear porch are the biggest. They are 8x12’s. Posts are 8x8’s and the ridge beams are 6x12 for the rear and 6x10 for the front. Timber trusses are between 800 and 900 lbs each. It was a lot of fun putting it all together.

@@ncbarndobuild awesome, nice work!

Windows are at 36” and the wainscoting is 35 7/8”. Window tops are at 96”.

@@ajrmk7gli266 interesting. Your house is trapezoidal. That is as long as the front and back are parallel 😂.

All of our overhang steel was from Menards. I could not find a supplier for vented soffit panels in my area so I did the soffit, fascia, and f-channel all from Menards to be sure the color matched and the steel roof and steel siding is from Best Buy Metals in Charlotte. Not sure if BBM white would be an exact match for the bright white from Menards. Very happy with the siding. Make sure you check out the short on the oil canning for the siding. It is hard to see but if that is something that bothers you I would suggest a different product.

Best Buy Metals is the manufacturer. The product is BBM board and batten siding.

@@ncbarndobuild awesome. Thank you for responding.

26 gauge. I believe you can also get it in 24 or 29 gauge.

Keep watching. That is not the finished product.

@@jhippl you can absolutely use rock wool batts. I thought about doing the same but I was a little unsure as to how you would securely retain it in place. I have never worked with the stuff before. What is your method to make sure it is retained in place?

@@ncbarndobuild it friction fits in place but if you want you can put it in place and nail a 3 1/2 in nail into the inside girt making a few spikes to hold it in place. I’ve moved over to completely using rock wool batts on the walls to make install easier.

I see. My building inspectors would probably require the fasteners to ensure that gravity doesn’t work them loose over time.

Absolutely. After all the trade rough-ins this will be revisited with fire rated foam and air sealant.

Siding color is charcoal grey. Here is the siding video. th-cam.com/video/NgmLSR_dCq4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nhZXuLR1u06oxFG8

If I was on a slab I would have bought one as well. I needed to build something lightweight that I could put in the crawlspace with my loader and this fit the bill. Even the small scissor lifts are rather heavy.

Using a pressure washer is not recommended. The manufacturer recommends a 5% vinegar and 95% water solution with a nylon brush to clean the dust and dirt from the stone. Reference the following product document. versettastone.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/versetta_stone_submittal_packet_WRT.pdf

@@ncbarndobuild Thank you so very much for getting back with me. I really appreciate it.

@@a.j.6018 let me know how it goes.

@@ncbarndobuild Ugh, it’s not coming off very easily. I made a small bottle of the vinegar water, just in case it didn’t work. I did a small area. I can’t imagine doing this, to all of it. My arm is going to fall off. I don’t know what to do.

@@a.j.6018 the problem with using the pressure washer or a harsh cleaner is it would probably void the warranty. I used a somewhat abrasive cleaner on a section of the garage to remove the red mud and it worked good without damaging the stone. I don’t think it would work for your scenario since it is specifically for red mud stains.