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@@markbuck9299 no problem bud. I hope it doesn’t happen again but stay tuned as soon as the turner one comes in I’ll be doing my best to break it🤣

@@korencet4331 I hope I just got a bad one but hopefully the fix will be out soon from turner so I shouldn’t break it again.

@@ronniemoore2951 yeah it’s been a pain but at least it was just the drive shaft for me and it was 179 dollars but I think it’s bs it broke as easily. I did a follow up video covering everything on my end. But they do seem to be breaking unless your babying them

@@korencet4331 I have had that thought but to be honest because I was so close to the trailer I rode it on the trailer and called the dealer because I was 5 hours away and wanted to get it dropped off before the closed so they could start working on it asap

@@mjmisadventures950 Gotcha. It does seem odd. It seems like you would have had way more load on things in the mud

@@korencet4331 I agree like I said if it would’ve broke in a mud pit I would’ve said well it happens but I was driving up a slight hill with some snow. It could’ve been the diff but I’m still guessing at this moment. I’ll hopefully know more tomorrow and can give everyone a follow up

It’s ok 💩 happens. Sucks I’m ready to get my tune and exhaust on but this is slowing me down a bit. I’ll keep yall posted though.

@mjmisadventures950 ikr. I may do tune in two weeks. May fab up a exhaust this week.

I have the slg exhaust and the rvs tune coming just waiting on the Atv to come back so I can send it out.

@mjmisadventures950 ok. Definitely tag me in on that.

Will do bud

@@carlosmoltini7058 honestly I’d go with a stage 1 personally.

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Ok let’s break it down step by step. The radiator and fans are identical. The 850 does have breaks on all 4 corners “I’m not sure why some sites showed only a single rear brake.” I actually spent an hour and a half getting a print out of a full part list everything was the same besides the fly weights in the clutch. Now as for the other models I can’t answer that if some parts are different. But as to the xmr their identical machines besides tune and fly weights and the handle bars and the accent lights. Now as to the weight I used can am spec sheets to show the weight differences. But using other models and brands the xmr is within 50-60 lbs and that’s comparing an xmr to average atvs. That’s why I made the point of the weights on both atvs

@mjmisadventures950 i wasn't sure of the xmr cooling system, i have an xtp but that 1000 is supposedly a better cooling system. Every review video I watched said they were different anyways. I think the XT 850 has 1 rear brake. They really stepped up the xmr this year. With The intermediate gears 25% lower and easy to swap out, and more shock travel in the rear at least. But just the cost of that tune is crazy and me myself I'd just shell out another $400. Plus then you need to change flyweights after

@ definitely understand that point of view and not saying anything is wrong with that. I looked at it knowing I was gonna tune and do the exhaust so to me it was a moot point also for some reason my dealer was willing to sell the 850 way cheaper I paid 13,250 for mine vs the full 16,599 so it was a big difference. I did go look at can am’s site and on the dps and it looks like the XT both get the single rear caliper. But for sure on the xmr they really stepped em up and are pretty much identical.

Cooling is the same on the XMR’s. It’s the other models that are different. So, when buying a 850 XMR or a 1000 XMR, it’s to 99.98% the very same machine, except for the weights in the clutch, that’s it. I have no idea how BRP went on about this. I guess they save more money this way than they lose by people not buying the 1000.

@ that’s correct they are identical beside the bars,mud strap,tune,accent lights,and clutch weights. It is surprising I figured they would drop the 850 and just make the 1k but it doesn’t seem to make much sense imo

Thanks! We definitely had a blast!

I agree the 700 is a great platform but the v twin is just ignorant on the trails and has all the power ya need

cfmoto has a decent parts network. Also there is a few great parts shop "MSC or Curren rv Yeti performance and RNG" all can get parts pretty easily.

Why so? I've been considering a kit from him.

@@danbledsoe7582 He used to test for vauthti then he left and started selling kits and tunes , magically coming out with near identical products as vauhti shortly after he released new designs. No real proof but clutching and tunes were easy to copy so you be the judge. He childishly bashed his competitors products and even worse personal attacks on their character as they took the high road and never said a word . He was a professional at convincing his followers that the competitions products were trash and the people running MSC and Vauhti are out to get him and they are straight up evil. This is why I won’t do business with RNG

Same if you have to reiterate how honest you are every video how honest are you. I also feel MSC has a bigger budget and able to produce a better product. Just look at how the shops are kept between the two.

@@NotBadExcavating Exactly. Big red flag.

@@MisfitMoto2024 we’re not leaving the cfmoto world just yet. But I wanted to try something new so figured why not. I gotta say it’s impressive.

@ definitely a nice unit. We got to demo some at an expo and they are nice. Biggest thing I don’t like is the key lol. But it’s a powerhouse

@ the key is a pain I’ll admit but now that I’ve used it for the day it doesn’t really bother me anymore

Kinda agree but then again it was to just show what it was capable of doing. Also it was an easy test to setup and show the difference in the helix and how they performed

Glad it helped some. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.

No they should just thread through and they will pass through the rear of the block. What are you mounting it to?

What did I say that was a lie?

From what I’m seeing from the maverick R is it’s far quieter and doesn’t have near as much parasitic loss as the cvt does. But time will tell. I’m still waiting to learn more about them but their being very quite about any new info.

Hey, so the clutch could be wearing in and it’s just starting to wear in the sliders or it could be the spring is loosing some of it tension. The clutch springs are a wearable item so it could possibly be that. But fortunately it’s an easy fix most stage 1 clutch kits “primary springs” are very easy to swap out. They are probably using the work mode as a bs fix to slow down the throttle to make it less noticeable. But my strongest guess is the spring is loosing its tension and just softening up “that is normal with the stock cv tech springs” but an msc stage 1 will fix it and make it a bit smoother. And give ya a little more power back and will last a long time. Hope this helps ya out bud have a great day.

@@michaelseaford8899 what do you mean? Was it the srm3? If that’s the question it’s the srm1 as rng stated it was the closest to the trail helix that msc offers.

So a stage one clocked to b3 will give more off the line punch but your putting the spring under more pressure. It will also take away some of your top end as well.

@@mjmisadventures950 thanks for the info 73 on top end now i think if i loose a few it will be ok lol shes a bit unstaedy lol but i go slower on ruff trails so tht mite help me our

No that would be a stage 1 or their stock performance package. You can buy a stage 3 and just hold off using the secondary till you run a larger tire.

I used a small 90 degree pick and it popped out pretty easily

Shoot me a message on facebook and when I get home tomorrow I can get you everything

Rng only wins in my testing in smoothness in takeoff. I know a guy who did use an msc secondary and helix and an rng primary and it was so uncontrollable he immediately pulled it out. So I’d strongly advise not to mix and match them. As for the takeoff the msc kit does take some of it out but there’s a small amount of that clunk but nowhere near as bad.

It makes sense but after a few rides you will get a little bit of it back. I lost about 5mph off my top end so yours is about the same as mine. Unfortunately with any cvt it’s all give and take you get more down low or more top end.

Thanks!

I hope so too

Long of the short you will sacrifice top speed but you gain way more bottom end. If you ride 60 mph and under it’s a great option. But if you watch my stage 3 comparison I break everything down at the end of the video. I have a stage 3 trail kit and still get 74mph but if you want to keep your top end look at their stock performance plus kit

I get it but I have the ability to use it and with all the other background music I would’ve had a copyright issue.

We’re trying man.

What’s your setup?

We’re from down by the chambersburg area. But we like to ride aoaa and a few others we have plans to visit soon

There are three main options. The first is a set of elkas. They’re expensive but can be ordered to handle the weight your hauling. Next would be a set of bandit tender springs. A little cheaper but not amazing. Last option a few guys have been using rzr 1000 springs and swapping them over and they have had pretty good luck but I’ve never tested it.

@@mjmisadventures950 Thank you very much for these options. I was going to start with the Bandit's but I think now I'll start with the RZR 1000 springs and if that doesn't work go right to the Elkas. Not familiar with them, what do I search for?

Ill test it and post a review 😅

please shoot us an email @ michael.goff1989@icloud.com

Absolutely man we’re going to pa mudd fest may 24-27. If you’ll be there just find us and say hello and hope in with one of our rides

I agree if I didn’t have the tips laying around I probably would have just done a 3 inch pipe tbh all the way up but using the sya kit it forced me to go down to the 2 inch pipe