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Are the crankshaft and the harmonic balancer supposed to be flush on the inside?

Wanna have a really fun time? Pull the trans with long tube headers.

Small hole in tread. Plug it!

yeah... my 07 v6 does same when I press gas pedal on 5th gear... so is it normal?

I appreciate how thorough you were and the attention to detail. Very helpful

I like the wheel stud idea. That won't slip

Does this work if you’re having a hard time putting it into first gear even after changing the clutch twice now

It best not to insert the valve stem while you inflate the tire. That way, you get a lot more air going in to make the bead pop.

That blocked off tubing you were asking about at 17:40 I think is the sound tube that pipes some of the intake noises into the cabin.

How did the bearing look on that seized rod?

What did you do for the temp sensor that controls the auto climate control? It's attached to the factory bezel.

Tire lube is for girls, (Tim Allen voice) Arr Arr Arr. 😂

This man is an idiot.

Hallo benutzt Du das Gerät nicht in falscher Richtung linksherum? Ich meine rechtsherum ist richtiger.

When I set the crank sensor wheel is is going to rub against the timing chains Is there a spacer needed between the crank sprocket and crank sensor wheel?

I wonder where you could find a tire store that would take the time to do the job right. I'm in Fairport, NY and I haven't found one. I had a slow leak and my local Firestone tried twice to fix my leaky tire, charged me both times, and failed miserably.

With a clean hole, like that nail made, I just use the method where you use the plug method. Clean up the hole with the provided awl that looks like a coarse file. Attach the patch plug to the inserter, Apply the glue to the plug, and insert the plug into the hole. Wait for glue to set. Air up the tire, trim off the excess, and repair is done in less than 10 minutes.

Slightly a different color? Umm. Black and gold are on different sides of the spectrum lol

Having a similar issue. I can tell at a stop that getting into first is tough and the clutch is making contact when pressed all the way. Also, get a little bit of synchro grind going into 3. Sucks. Brand new clutch, brand new trans, braided lines, independent reservoir. Everything new except for the master cylinder

Hope you’re still active, I’ve got a question. Got a 2011 5.0 6speed, couldn’t hardly get in or out of gear. Had to cut off the car to put in gear. Replaced master cylinder, was good for 3 miles or so. Then back to having the same issue. I think I didn’t bleed it correctly, can’t get it into gear unless I cut it off and also if I have it in gear with the clutch pushed all the way in and I let off the brake the car will start moving in gear.

Thanks Matt this was really helpful. Would you recommend an alignment after installing these?

Did adding the sleeve completely stop the seal from leaking? Or did you have to replace the HARMONIC BALANCER?

I would like to know if adding the sleeve to the balancer fixed the leak?

That nail was too close to the sidewall for a reliable repair.

Not trying to be rude but get yourself on a mild cardio regimen. I thought you might have a mild aneurism during your demonstration.

Did you do a part two? I have the same issue and I was hoping to see your solution. It’s driving me nuts. lol. I would much rather hear you explain it than someone else- your videos are well produced, and I really appreciate the information and the manner in which it’s delivered.

Are you supposed to go counterclockwise?

Talvez le faltó un poco de jabón pero exelente la maquina

I was always told to never spread rtv like butter but to leave at least a 2mm thick bread all around, unless you're using it as an adhesive. Spreading it minimizes the rtvs potential to fill in any gaps which is the main reason for applying the rtv in the first place. Anywho, thanks for the video. 👍🏾

Great video my friend, perty sure all gearheads will appreciate it , but notice you rotated it counterclockwise --? ,

Subbed on this vid...didnt realize I hadnt yet, thanks for the great content. WIll be a lifesaver with the 09 WRX.

It looks like it's a motor out of a Lincoln mark viii. The crank should have 8 bolt holes for the flywheel.

Is the bubble balancer for wheels of a certain center bore size? When you used the lug nuts on the lucid adapter, would that work for different bolt patterns (5 x 114.3, 4 x ...)? Are there adapters/spacers to allow for other sizes and bolt patterns?

The best video that explains in a simple and precise way how to do it right 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻

i would love to possibly get you on the horn for some advice. I have a 97 cobra as well and quite frankly could use the advice! well wishes my friend

Great video, thanks for being thorough!

I realize this was a year ago but if you're going to do this kind of work you'll want to invest in 8oz-36oz *soft face* dead-blow hammers, that piston would have been out in a couple of smacks, using wood was the right idea. Grab a real breaker bar 24" or larger. That little 14" one has been painful to watch. It's also a good idea to get some sleeves for the connecting rods for removing/installing them through the cylinders, it's easy to leave a deep groove that could potentially ruin the block. Looking forward to finishing the series on this 4.6L as there's barely any in-depth videos on them let alone a 96-98 Cobra. I'm sure you've long figured out that is the original engine to that car.

I definitely agree with your comment about not really doing this to save money but that us D.I.Y.er's like to do our own maintenance and enjoy working with our hands. Thanks for the video.

what brand of tire iron is that?

Great video, thanks 👍

Sir, I'd love to see you dismount one of those tesla tires, or do you think its impossible with the HF tire changer. Thx

Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing. Lots of good tips. Thanks a bunch. 🙋🏻‍♂️

Excellent series of videos. Your patience while working on this motor is very impressive. Lots of information. Very useful video. Thanks for posting.

Good job!!

Is that a HF lift? 😁

Hey Matt, I have been desperate to find a clunking noise in my rear end. I upgraded the rear on my 13 GT500 to Eaton Detroit truetrack and moser axles 31 spline. If I’m driving under 80mph and go over something like a reflector it clunks in the rear, and if I pull on the wheels while it’s sitting it clunks. Not sure where the issue is at. My mechanic that installed it said the shims, c clamp and the spring tensioner for the axles are all within measurement. Any idea what it could be? Brakes are on tight.

Wow why do you think the valve spring failed?

Good lord that exhaust 😂😅

Is there a reason the head couldnt be surfaced and the cam journals bored? Instead of doing all this

Watching your whole series loving it so far. I did think it was odd at this point that you didnt measure the camshaft bearing clearances. I want to build a gt engine but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on the camshaft bearings, with them being integrated into the head itself