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Very nice! What about the inductance, can i measure down to 1 nH?

I am looking to build a matrix panel 5cm x 60cm. I have never build anything like this before. I need it to run on between 9 - 18v DC (P3 Batteries) Or would you be willing to build one for me? Cheers 👍🏻

Could you please share information on the Atmega328 firmware/software used?

nice project! but waw, 2 relays more than 10$. what is max voltage and amp this unit uses? can an a1117 be used instead of l317? Thanks :)

where did you get these things, where did you buy the screen battery and motherboard?

I have a question, can i use it and modify it to be with a switch instead of a button because i want to make a DIY flight controls for xbox, could this work?

I made a TTL device by accident on the Cardputer as I coded "a reader" for a GPS module and wrote to serial / USB as well. With a switch or sending "$keyboard,5" I could give it 5 minutes in HID mode, maybe, in the future. Not sure where to start, but I'm "through" the USB cable in that situation.

From A to Z awesome! I would like to see upgrades. Thanks.

You could probably sell these for 40 us a piece and get it

im your 1000th liker

I have done this LC Meter project and it works great. Many thanks to the author.

Hi there, this is awesome! I'm trying to make a clock for my wife that also uses the BKA 30D-R5 but stuck by the lack of footprint/symbols and my inexperience to create them from scratch. Could you share those with me? I saw the zip and it has everything else, but that. Thanks for reading me and for sharing project with the community.

Impressive write-up and explanation. Your content is well made.

جميل جدا لكن اريد معرفة الجزء العاطل في مقياس الخاص بي (vector vc9808) بسبب قياس مكثف10u مشحون 300v ..😢..الان يعطي قيم خاطئة L..c..هل يمكن إصلاحه ليعطي قيم صحيحة ؟

Great Explanation

After so many years, my question is whether I can order the board .LZ1INK.73

Thanks to Neil Hecht for sharing his project ,Very useful, nicely done video I've been looking for a good lc meter schematic for a long time, looks like I finally found it

Delphi - YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not a M$ drone, ....love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I love this man ! Keep em comin' 👍

Thanks for yet another great project. It looks trully amazing. Would I be able to build one based on the files you posted ?

Yes, I get that the name of the channel is Designing HARDWARE, but it looks like a number of us are interested in your software development process as well. Do tell!

Some of the different things I like to get involved in are, computers, 3D printing, and woodworking. I think I am going to give this a try, about the only thing I do not have, is the aluminum L extrusions that you used here, but I "might" be able to work around not having that. I'm thinking I could build the entire enclosure using some 1/4 inch (apx. 6mm)thick acrylic. Great design!!!!!!!!!!!

OLD Skoo Geeza here... I too gould not beleive the price of 3.5" Caddies in this day and age (2022-2024) Wrong....! Just Wrong!!! Love this man!! Nothing like a hard copy to archive for yourself other than a clould service! The majority of this newer generation will laugh regarding this 'Back-Up' meathod. More fool them! Thank you for a great tutorial! Thank you for sharing to the people! X

Are the switch spacers and tops that you used available commercially? Or did you print them 3D?

Why did you use light pipes for the LEDs rather than leaving the LED leads long enough for the LED to reach the top of the case?

Your exclamations are very thorough and appreciated.🙏

I built 2 of these but have not gotten them to work yet. I am wondering if me not setting or picking any AVR fuse settings when I programmed the mcu would be the cause. Coreweaver what should those fuse settings be? Thank you.

Hey man I;m doing a similar project, would you mind sharing your firmware ? So that I can figure out what I'm doing wrong, thanks

Awesome!!!

Are you still working on new projects?

Hi! I don't have LM311. I was making a generator using the LM4580 operational amplifier, but the generator did not work. I made a transistor generator, everything works great! th-cam.com/video/JKyrUbSgpiQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sk0eRllXp6vxKnOM

That's awesome bro!! Very cool...I'm just gonna buy the adapter.

Did you think about using a 0 offset function? Would it help? I.E calibrate with leads both open and shorted

Does this reduce the noise ?

I have finished the hardware and have done a simple "Hello World". I am having a difficult time loading the Hex File firmware into the Processor. What did you used to load the firmware. Thanks

This is perfect for a project I have in mind. Thank you for sharing this!!!

Wonderful LC meter. A Very nice tool.

Yipiee!!!! Finally I find a digital alarm clock that can play "music" and with software that is written in Bascom-Avr!! Plenty of clocks I can find but all made with Arduino. I have problems understanding C++ and that is why I choose more then 25 years ago for Basic ..... and with the introduction of microcontrollers, I bought Bascom-Avr; a more simple language .... for me anyway. Thank you for posting this project to TH-cam!!

Its only using nokia 3310 modul lcd

An absolute gem of an article, it also solved a similar issue I had with the need to retain a Bluray combo unit in upgrading to a modern desktop case that had no 5.25" bays. FUBAR! My need for multiple removable HDD's - I work with video and previously used an Icy Dock Caddy system - was economically solved with external 3.5" and 2.5" drive cases . . but an external case for an optical drive? GB£56 up to GB£93?!?!? Your DIY case is really rather pro finish but it's your mention of the UNITEK that has solved my problem because I didn't know this type of adapter was available and it will allow me to gut the circuit board out of the rear of an old alloy case for an EIDE drive and use that case! Perfect, the UNITEK has cost me GB£20, and I've "up-cycled" an old PC component too! Huge thanks!

is it necessary to build an enclosure for the player, for safety or anything?

Well done, great job, keep going

This is really awesome work, I'm working on a project like this and I was wondering if you could help me understand the firmware of for this project. I noticed that you are using the IO pins of the MCU for USB communication. Is there a specific way you're sending those commands or is there anything else?

Thats awesome was just searching cant believe the price. May just get that adapter and call it a day.

Cool build Earned a subscriber

To measure such small values of capacitors, the calibration MUST be done with the probes connected, and the leads dressed as they will be when taking the measurements! (also keep your hands clear of the probes while calibrating! This way the capacitance of the probe wires will be included when the calibration is done, and therefore the lead capacitance will be zeroed out. After the probe leads are attached to the capacitor being measured you must REMOVE your hands so that you won't be adding hand capacitance to the readings. Finally, what is the smallest values of inductance that can be measured? What about the largest values of L and C? Also there should be a way to calibrate the meter (actually ZERO the meter) for inductance. To do this, the probes would be shorted and a reading taken of the "zero" frequency for inductance. This way small inductors could be measured, and not include the inductance of the leads. Also relay 1 can be eliminated by using a DPDT switch to change between L and C. The ground pole of the switch will either ground the inductor or a port pin on the micro controller to let it know what mode it's in. To enter calibration mode would use a push button switch. Now separate calibration / zero routines can be done for L and C. This will allow for the L zero function mentioned above. The above ideas came from a meter by VK3BHR that used a PIC16F628 (which also has an LM311 equal inside it). I built his meter and it works well, but is limited to measuring C down to about 1pf, and L down to about .1 uh (it reads down to .01 pf and uh, but with +/- 0.01 resolution display it can't be considered accurate that low). The original AEE meter was able to read a lot lower and higher in C and L.

Why not just display the mode (L, C, or CAL) on the LCD instead of using the two LED's? Also, the atMega328 will run fine at 8 MHZ from a 3.3 volt supply, so there isn't any need to run it at 5 volts which would simplify the power supply. The relays might not work at 3.3 v, however I think that relays with a lower coil voltage are available, or they could be powered from before the 3.3 volt regulator.

Is there any way to contact you ? :)

Thanks to Neil Hecht for sharing his project ,Very useful, nicely done video I've been looking for a good lc meter schematic for a long time, looks like I finally found it

My mom is looking for a new clock and I was thinking of making one. Your has all the functionality that I need with the TEA5767 being something I have been wanting to play with and the icing on the cake is that display, it's beautiful. Thank you for making it open source.