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Nice Mike Tyson face tatoo you are sporting there.

Lonnnnnnng time, no see, AL! I was thinking about you a few days ago! GLAD you are well! I'm working on my latest project, a 1968 Rolls Royce Fixed-Head Coupe! More videos, PLEASE!

Great stuff. Is that a Brooklands?

Are you stll happy with your edelbrock??

posibly the G valve locked up

That’s a 66

I think I have the same issue. Thanks for making the video. Will one broken fitting stop both pumps working properly because if I power either of mine directly I get a little flow but no pressure.?

Truly like the Lucas Marker Lights orange and Red that came on Corniche 1V and most shadows and all Wraiths. Have acquired a set of 4 to put onto my Spirit Mark 1. Am aware the Spirit did not have Marker Lights.

Only can say aboút jag fuel pump replacements bad design.

Hi there, what is torque spec for tighten of 3 nuts on top of strut ? Thank you

Thanks for the update Al. I've been watching closely and hopeful you completely sort the Brooklands. Glad to see some progress.

Did you get it sorted?

Oh man this sort of DIY stuff is exactly what I was looking for, thank you. Most of the things I find is replace this, replace that etc, without even knowing for sure what the problem is. I'm not that rich and I don't want to replace parts that might be good.

That engine sounds terrible.

Thank you for the regard. It was a pleasant surprise. It's probably me not watching the videos fully but I didn't know that you had trouble codes stored. Those are interesting. But before then: your live data reads intercooler air temperature. -40 degrees. Gibberish? Maybe not. Looking at some of these models. Some came with intercoolers but yours doesn't have it? Did you verify that the ECM in your car is the correct one? I read recently that someone with a W126 had a 4.2l ecu in the 5.6l car. It was running fine except for some niggling issues. He could never get to the bottom of it until that discovery was made. You'd never think of something like that. I hesitate at saying anything as 'aha' with these cars and their low volume productions adding to their peculiarities. But if this car were to have no intercooler, I'd expect live data to read "N/A" rather than a value (any value no matter how implausible it was). It should know that there is no intercooler temp to be read as the ECM output has no measure for it. The low production numbers also make spares tough to come by. If it's being worked on and the ECM is fried and one is available but not for that specific model do they wait, or get the one that gets the car working to 90% and send it down the road? Depends on the shop. The codes O2 sensor for Bank 1? That means Bank 2 is ok? So three sensors in total or does it just read one bank and this is pre three sensor days? Is this the one you replaced in an older video? You're getting correct functioning values for a working sensor (open/closed loop) but it seems to be not working with the car. Air injection pump. Is this the air pump incorrectly/not pumping air into the exhaust? That would throw off the O2 readings wouldn't it? Yes air not pumping in would lean it out as it's reading rich but cold start can have an default of preset rich mixture negating this. I could go into more about this but I kind of make myself no better than any other armchair online expert as I simply have no idea what's going on here. I would sincerely enlist the forum experts on this or (what I would myself do) get schematics of the car's wiring. Figure out what wires go where for the ECM. And subsequently what does what for the resulting function. I have in awe watched South Main Auto (and a few others) at diagnosing things and see how important it is to have a firm base level to reference resulting measures from. There have been a couple of times where a car has 10 codes and he tries to find the most common denominator (that would otherwise be shrouded were it not for diagnostic/schematic data) and that clears out half to most of the codes. Not saying this isn't this but those trouble codes would be the thing I have a direct goal of correcting. There's a better chance that that will fix the rough running rather than trying to fix the rough running to resultingly get rid of the code(s). Please keep us informed. I'm getting more curious as this is developing.

I’ve a 72 3.5 and its refusing to start in the past 2 weeks, I replaced the ballast replaced the ignition leads and new points still nothing, I’ve ordered a new distributor cap, ignition coil and rotor so hopefully that might work but its so frustrating as it was working but the safety neutral switch started giving grief and you could only start it in N or worse case scenario you’d have to bypass it under the hood but its really depressing me of late 🤦fingers crossed the new bits and bobs might get a spark going. Glad to see someone else posting videos, keep up the good work Colm (Ireland)

I was wondering if you've done a exhaust pressure test? It's starting to sound like blocked cats. Also, does that injection use a cold start injector? the blue plug hanging loose looks like a cold start injector connector. If it has a cold start injector ,have you checked it to make sure it isn't leaking when hot?

Did you check the TPS? I suggest to swap out the MAP from your other car.

Firstly, been waiting on some uploads from you. Didn't think you'd give us all 8 months worth in 2 weeks! Either way thank you. This could be one or maybe even two problems. But I think to go forward there should be a backwards retreat to the basics. Low pressure (which is no more?), running rich with a fluctuating idle. The first thing is to smoke her out. Make sure of no leaks. That way removing a vacuum hose doesn't help make a fluctuating idle less so. Secondly can you get ECM information on a scanner? What do temp sensors say? MAF/MAP readings. I once had a fragment of a leaf the size of a shaved piece of garlic get caught in an MAF filament cause a stall/rough running condition. I spent hours trying to find that one. Is the car running rich because it's being told to do so or reacting directly to a mechanical fault? Changing injectors just because they could be thought of sticking open doesn't help when doing so throws you off due to a slight improvement. New injectors sometimes do improve things just due to their newness but not when they're not the underlying issue. I don't know how much information there is from early OBD-II componentry but replacing and opening things only opens the possibility of another problem (brittleness causing another issue that wasn't existent prior to diagnosing). Also you've got multiple cars of the same brand/type within the same generation. I want to think there are in date service manuals that are available that would be a time and money saver. Also partially non related: 1) I've been using ethanol free fuel for the 'sitters' for a couple of years now. It's more expensive but I look at it as necessary to keeping these things that were not designed with modern fuels in mind. My cars are more hours run than miles added. The gas sits more than is used on them. This helps a lot in terms of parts degradation due to moisture absorption etc plus newer fuels attacking older componentry. I don't have time for these things like I used to and worse, I don't want to fix something one day and fix the same thing years later with only 2 (about 15 hours run time) miles added onto it. Yes I've already done that. If you have this in your area, please think about using it. 2) IF you don't have it consider adding exhausting fans to the warehouse. Those summer months will start cooking things. You don't work in there during that time I know but the indoor temperature is sometimes higher than the outdoor ambient temperature by 10-20 degrees which already could be triple digits (that's 38+ degrees Celsius to non USA). This is better for the cars and will help keep the problems lowered that you don't have to resultingly chase. In another video you were talking about thinning the herd. These two things that are minimally passive should have a mechanically retarding benefit to inactive aging/wear and affect almost all your cars there. I still want to see more of the 1987&'88 cars. 😀

I enjoy your updates but I think everyone would appreciate it if you could normalize your audio levels before publishing. 🎤📈

Dont give up 😅

what could be wrong? wrong/faulty fuel pump, kinked or holed fuel line, faulty fuel pressure valve, wiring issue.....etc

Your fuel pressure is WAY too low. The ECU is probably overadjusting (rich) for the low pressure. Check the fuel pump again

I wonder if you can swap the Zytec ECU from your Conti R if they are interchangable that year. I know on my 96 Conti R, I would get the P0300 if I started and let idle for a few minutes, otherwise I never got that code.

like 4 !

This collection surely keeps you busy!! Always love seeing new content.

looking good my friend!

You have some really cool cars

These cars are a nightmare to work on!!!!

That beep when the car starts gives me so much anxiety.. especially if I hear while the car is driving

Nice work Al!

Gday Al,on that 3,5 someone has deleted the ignition box and it now has a points set up in the distributor. 😊I did one just like it a couple of years ago. I sorted it by fitting a F.A.S.T. ignition and that removes the points out of the system,making a hotter spark and more reliable.

well done sir

I have this car as well

Hello sir! Can you help me? Can you tell me where is the engine number localization of this vehicle?

I am throwing away the jag tank and putting in a racing tank with stump in the trunk using only a exterior pump! 92 xjs v12.

Glad to see you back and.... in great shape! I don't own a Bentley and my garage and... wallet are too small..., but I think these tips are great for getting around the "theft organized by car manufacturers and parts dealers". Sincerely yours... from France !

I have a 93 xj6, is my fuel pump in the tank.

Sounds like you got an engine lubrication problem

Please, I need the location of the fuse box and the diagram for the box, arnag2003

It’s beautiful, thanks for showing.

Is a hydrogen system installed in this car, just asking.

Glad you are back, AL, and doing good! Missed you! Working on these cars never ends, does it? What's the latest with the Corniche?

WOW . . . Thanks a bunch from a Jag Dude in UK. It is a breath of fresh air to see an initial frustration, bordering on despair, bordering on "sod-it . . it ain't worth the effort" actually turned around into a success. These cars a beautiful when they are working . . and royal PITA when they decide not to. I've got a 1988 V12 XJS that stopped starting about 8 years ago. I watched your vid in preparation of what might be yet to come. I'm not hoping to god is wasn't because of fuel pump failure. I don't think it was . . . just died and no crank . . so hoping electrical/points/starter etc. I'm not normally one to prayin' . . but after your vid . . I might be persuaded to before getting to my XJ-S. Cheers from UK Jag Dude

Any news on the restoration of this car?

Al, What’s the latest on your silver 03 Arnage ??

Hi, the central event won’t work unless you put “auto” knob and outside temperature justify it to be open. Sounds weird but the system works by itself and there is nothing you can do ! I have a série 3 VDP and it took me while to find out how it works. Arnaud from France- BORDEAUX. 😊

THANKYOU ,AND ALL PEOPLE, THAT KEEP THESE OLD JAGS GOING , HISTORY WILL RE VIEW THESE CARS AS WORKS OF ART

Ma786sai Dua great video truly. Mine is a mark 1 1982 Spirit with HIF 7 SU I think. Car runs Marvellous but mixture very rich as plugs get black in a month of driving. How can I weaken mixture. I believe turning the screw ANTI-CLOCKWISE wise weakens mixture. Can this be done without removing both SU?

what state are you in?