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Kang
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2013
Via Comici Dimai - Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
ONSIGHT SPOILER WARNING!
The Via Comici Dimai is one of the most historic routes in the Dolomites, the first route established up the north face of the Cima Grande. This video provides footage of all 550 meters of the Comici Dimai route.
Excludes the first 2 pitches which were climbed free-solo. Pitches 9 & 10 were inadvertently linked. Attempted to link pitches 12 & 13, but ran out of rope a few meters shy of the anchors of pitch 13 and had to build an anchor - ropes used were 60m twin ropes.
The descent is not shown but is complicated and easy to get lost on - anyone intending to climb the route should invest in a comprehensive topo of the descent.
Video contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:08 - Pitch 3 (UIAA 4)
4:20 - Pitch 4 (UIAA 7)
10:05 - Pitch 5 (UIAA 6+)
21:48 - Pitch 6 (UIAA 7-)
30:40 - Pitch 7 (UIAA 6)
38:14 - Pitch 8 (UIAA 7-)
46:48 - Pitch 9 & 10 (UIAA 7- & 7)
1:19:34 - Pitch 11 (UIAA 4+)
1:28:48 - Pitch 12 & 13 (UIAA 4 & 4+)
1:42:02 - Pitch 14 (UIAA 5-)
1:58:34 - Pitch 15 (UIAA 4+)
2:02:10 - Pitch 16 (UIAA 5)
2:14:33 - Pitch 17 (UIAA 4)
2:18:00 - Pitch 18 (UIAA 4)
The Via Comici Dimai is one of the most historic routes in the Dolomites, the first route established up the north face of the Cima Grande. This video provides footage of all 550 meters of the Comici Dimai route.
Excludes the first 2 pitches which were climbed free-solo. Pitches 9 & 10 were inadvertently linked. Attempted to link pitches 12 & 13, but ran out of rope a few meters shy of the anchors of pitch 13 and had to build an anchor - ropes used were 60m twin ropes.
The descent is not shown but is complicated and easy to get lost on - anyone intending to climb the route should invest in a comprehensive topo of the descent.
Video contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:08 - Pitch 3 (UIAA 4)
4:20 - Pitch 4 (UIAA 7)
10:05 - Pitch 5 (UIAA 6+)
21:48 - Pitch 6 (UIAA 7-)
30:40 - Pitch 7 (UIAA 6)
38:14 - Pitch 8 (UIAA 7-)
46:48 - Pitch 9 & 10 (UIAA 7- & 7)
1:19:34 - Pitch 11 (UIAA 4+)
1:28:48 - Pitch 12 & 13 (UIAA 4 & 4+)
1:42:02 - Pitch 14 (UIAA 5-)
1:58:34 - Pitch 15 (UIAA 4+)
2:02:10 - Pitch 16 (UIAA 5)
2:14:33 - Pitch 17 (UIAA 4)
2:18:00 - Pitch 18 (UIAA 4)
มุมมอง: 6 400
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Climbing the Dragons Horns on Tioman in Malaysia
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The Dragons Horns are twin peaks which rise above the jungles of Tioman Island in Malaysia. The island is not a typical climbing destination, being better known both domestically and internationally for its sunny beaches and diving. This makes climbing the handful of routes scattered across the Dragons Horns that much more of an adventure, and it certainly provided us with a proper epic across ...
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มุมมอง 1.1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
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still open ?
@@clarencetan4280 I think "at your own risk" is the best answer I can give unfortunately
easy
awesome video, thx for the information!! How long did you guys need in total with climbing down etc.?
you climb in total stress breathing like that, it happens when you are at the limit of your capabilities
Mr Kang, thank you for this video, my team managed to summit Dragon Horns via Naga route on 7th July 2024 by studying your video. It’s really helpful. We managed to navigate all the way to the top thanks to your video. Thank you again Mr Kang. Hope we can climb together someday.
Congratulations on summiting the Dragons Horns! You are most welcome and I'm very glad that my video was useful to you and your team. I'm always happy to climb with new friends!
@@kang546 if you happen to be around Malaysia, drop us a hello ! Thank you Mr Kang !
Cały czas oddychałeś przez Usta-to nie dobrze!Ja wiem...emocje...staraj się NOSEM i bardziej równomiernie...będziesz się mniej męczył.😊😇
Excellent video! Thank you! Btw incredible achievement of the couple Comici Dimai at that time with their poor tools!
Thank you! Yes it really was such a visionary line for the time!
Hi guys very nice climb, did you rappel from the same route? What’s the first rappel station that you used?
Thanks! We rappelled the same route. In the video around 1:27:19 there are some slings left by previous parties. We added a maillon/quicklink to that setup and rapped from there. Probably want to bring a sling or some cord in case those slings haven't been replaced in recent times.
I thought dairyfarm banned climbing. is it opened?
The situation is the same now as it's always been, as far as I'm aware, which is that technically it's not climbing that is against the rules, but stepping off the trail to get to the walls. Nparks asked climbers not to climb, and there hasn't been any change in their position. What to make of that is something you'll have to decide for yourself I'm afraid.
hi, heard that there was a landslide or something in the area a while back. Do you know if kikoman is still in good shape to climb? thanks! Your beta videos have been quite helpful!!
Yes the belay area is actually nicer now. The climb is unaffected save the first couple of meters, which were never the most fun or interesting anyway. Glad you're finding the videos useful!
Lovely princesses 😄 . . . Fantastic climb and fantastic drone shots...The view is reallllly something.
hi Kang, i rmb hearing of some hold being broken off. Wondering which hold it might have been. Also, during the crux, right after first undercling, and after the third clip, your left hand goes for a crimp on the slopey feature ... is it still there? Or could it have been a rather bad crimp? thanks haha
Hey the broken hold is the big two hand jug at 0:27 to 0:30. It's now a couple of really really bad crimps. Highly recommend stick clipping up to the 2nd bolt if you're just starting to try the route. I haven't done Baby Star in ages so I'm not sure if that left hand crimp on the crux is still there, but I remember it being pretty good! I almost wouldn't call it a crimp but maybe a small side pull sorta hold.
thanks! I was struggling to find any left side pulls during that sequence. Maybe, i missed it, or the sequence just got way more interesting!
Hi, what is the name of the anchor at the top? Looks different from the normal 2 bolts anchor
Hey I'm afraid I have no idea what they are called. They are some form of really expanded U bolt that I've never seen elsewhere
@@kang546Alright, thx
Masyallah soooo beautiful place.... feel like visiting today
Excellent.
Thank you!
Nice!
Thanks!!
Wow…you’re guys are crazy….awesome video 👍😍
Thank you!!
Should make it a paid trip in the future
Nais ahh. Ada jgak pembakar semangat untuk aku terus practice dan practice lepasni🫶🏻 terima kasih
Thank you!
Allez kasyaf!
@@Norhaffizal nnti along bawak kashap naik sana
frigging amazing!! That pitch 7 when you had to go out to the left with the under-cling, incredible! I was stressed and exhausted just watching!! Well done!!
Thanks buddy! Pitch 7 was absolutely amazing. All that exposure while making those moves really made for an unforgettable pitch!
What is your recording setup? It looks great!
Thanks! I use a DJI Osmo Action 1 shooting at 2.7K with the inbuilt electronic stabilisation on. It's extended a bit from my helmet with a short (~7cm) extender.
Why chess ?
No clue! Most route names have some sort of story behind them but I've yet to hear one for this route
With so many jugs, this is no way a 7a. Looks more like a solid 6b+
It's basically 5+ up to the roof. The section from there to the anchors gives it the grade
Solid you guys
Thanks dude! Was a brilliant climb totally worth considering
You bolted this route ?
I was one of a small team of bolters who put up this route. The others were kind enough to let me take the FA.
when the camera hit that overhead rock 😵💫
This camera has taken a lot of abuse like that 😂
Looks like a cool route! 💛
Nice!
Thanks!
looking forward to climb
thank you for doing this.
No worries! I'd recommend leaving this one for a dry day though! It's pretty awful when wet
Super sick send and sicker dyno!
Thanks!
Is the limestone cold
The rock at Dairy Farm is actually granite and not limestone. I wish it were cold, but given Singapore's tropical weather, it's usually anywhere from warm to sweltering.