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Good process here especially on refill of coolant. If you removed the radiators w/o draining (while still connected) you could get the bolts out. Do not use sandpaper on the pan surface. It will leave grit in the pan. Use brake cleaner instead of water. Fasteners are torqued to a value based on their size and use. All external ele connectors are water tight. Using contact cleaner may force debris into the connector. Using a crows foot will affect the torque by a negative factor. Always return the torque wrench to 0 for storage or it will change the values over time. I use a paint pen to mark all the tq values by the fasteners. Clean the hub and rotor faces with a wire wheel/brush before install. Recheck your coolant levels after driving for 20 min and letting it cool down. Use WaterWetter for water thinning and no cavitation.

Great video! gonna tackle the job this summer and do new bearings as well!

All this for an oil pan gasket replacement job 😐😭…….faaaaaaak

I have an M2 competition, watching this video one can appreciate the complexity of such an engine thus why these M cars go so well.

When you found out the top mount intercooler was leaking , were there any other signs, like misfiring?? My original was replaced cus it was empty, only found out cus the code said charged air too hot. I replaced with stronger aftermarket one that shouldn't leak, but I'm losing fluid noticable after a month. I'm also getting misfires under full throttle .

Lots of small mistakes that could have been [and some have been] fixed in post production, but none-the-less incredible video. Extremely appreciated!

There was no rtv silicone on my old oil pan gasket. Which means, the new one also requires no rtv silicone. Usually, its all silicone & no gasket, OR all gasket & no silicone. The reason people will use both is to keep the gasket from moving around on you when installing it. Easy, just put a bolt in one of the holes while lifting the oil pan with the gasket. Using both silicone and gasket you will run the risk of getting a leak. Lastly, your gasket must have been replaced once before and they chose the risky method of using both silicone and gasket. The old gasket isn't showing poor manufacturing, it's showing that it's baked and ready to replace. Why they can't design a better gasket that will last the life of the engine is beyond me, as the japanese cars do it all the time.

You removed the fender liner in the opposite to correct sequence. The front half comes off 1st since it overlaps the rear half. Then, remove the rear half.

Removing the brakes was unnecessary. Just unbolt the three arms to the spindle (aka knuckle), skip the brakes, and drop the subframe.

Are serious that you have to do all this to take the oil pan out

Welp that’s sucks mine started to leak. A few months ago, it wasn’t major but I might a swell fix it now, I have a lift and I know some buddies that wouldn’t mind tackling this sucks that I can’t just remove the metal cover protecting the oil pan and dropping it from There but I guess that’s Bmw for you, have you replace differential bushings ? Mine are toast too

Excellent video, thanks. Can you please share where you got the venturi adapter and compressor from? For filling the coolant. Thanks.

Hey bud if you don't mind when you have a minute can you send me a list of what you needed besides the gasket and the belly pan bolts. Thanks

This just happened to me also. My car was cutting out at higher rpm's. I just replaced my intercooler but it's still cutting out. Next i'm replacing the spark plugs. Did you notice any cutting out on acceleration as well and did you have to replace plugs as well?

Great vid. Don't think I'm brave enough to tackle this one. Can't wait for a quote from the stealership. Check out my M4-wide open, on the Fontana ROVAL: th-cam.com/video/VPXQjz3hRBY/w-d-xo.html

Hey thinking of doing this on my f80, how long did it take you from start to finish, (hours)

Oo I gotta ask what year, how many miles and your driving habits ??

Very well rounded tutorial. Even though my f80 has no leaks sitting at 38 k mileage iam a bit skeptical on keeping it after watching this video. Even though iam well versed mechanical and done some serious automotive work I feel that this is unacceptable on bmw to have designed this car like this. And simply won't pay big dollars or waste my time on some stupid engineering flaw bmw made especially with these gaskets failing around 50 to 60 k its to soon. This really jerks my chain for the price we pay for these cars these motors should keep oil in at least till 100k

You, my friend, have done an awesome job. Struggling to find detailed F30 335i videos to this, so I watched yours while I had ISTA open. Lol, it is much simpler on the F30, my confidence to tackle this without a lift has increased tremendously. Thanks for the efforts that went into to making the video for the community. Cheers.

Awesome video mate, I had misfire on 3rd and 4th cylinders on my M4, which I replaced both and 4th cylinder had misfire again a day after replacing them. Then I realize the top engine cooler is leaking, you reckon it could cause the misfiring due to coolant leaking into the engine, thou the coolant leakage is very minimal, cheers

Hello, thanks for sharing the video, it's helpful, good job. I would like to ask you for information if is it possible to fill the reservoir without the vacuum filling tool and then bleed it by using the car automatic system (max. heating, pressing the throttle pedal), can it work? Another question: the cooler, charge pipes and J-pipe looks more sporty than the OEM parts, do you feel any progress in better engine reaction on throttle pedal or some more performance? Bye, Richard

Got the same problem with 65k miles.

Is this something you can catch with a pressure test? I think I'm having the same issue but BMW told me the pressure test was fine. But if its internal then possibly could still be the problem?

I'm looking to buy a replacement top mount for my M4 that is loosing coolant and emptying my coolant tank. What's your opinion on this top mount now that you've driven for a while with it? Worth it or bite the bullet and get a Mishimoto /CSF

Did you end up having to refresh anything after installing the cleaned up throttle body? Just did the same procedure to mine and the car won't stay running. Thanks in advance.

I think I’m currently facing this exact issue with my 101k mile S55 M4. Assuming I take it to the shop first thing, any chance this damages the engine? It still drives & idles smoothly, but just got drivetrain malfunction in the iDrive & CEL the last quick drive for the first time.

Great vid.. But bruh, the editing... Causing me to have seizures...

This is an impressive DIY project, so crazy to see you do all this

Im experiencing exactly the same symptom ~! Thank you for the informative video ~!

Grey Video, About to drop 4K for dealer to fix this issue 115k miles on 2015 F82

Great job ~!! Mine just started leaking ~ and its getting it replaced ~

Beautiful epoxy floor 👍👍👍👍

Nice job, you deserve more views. I would’ve cursed and punched my car multiple times lol. Now I know why am oil pan replacement costs so much in labor. Absolutely ridiculous the amount of things you have to remove just to get access 😩

My f80 had 36k mikes when the intercooler was leaking. Was not very happy with the dealer since i took the car twice for service, they didnt even check the coolant levels until i pointed it out. I told them that the car was not performing as it should have and it wasent ideling like it should, and one of the guys told me that " that engine is knowned to not idle good, is perfectly fine". Turns out i was right, there was a leak, good thing it had warranty. One thing they didnt check was the charge pipes so we'll see what happens next. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Just want to say that I've tackled many projects on my M4. Recently discovered oil leak which I am now assuming is coming from oil pan gasket. Although I am thoroughly capable of tackling this job myself, you've definitely convinced me to leave it to the pros, lol. I do have one question though. If you remove cover that covers the oil pan, do you have access to oil pan bolts to slightly tighten them without removing anything else?

Whats the miles on your M3? That is pretty common issue with high miles f8x.

nice job! thinking of tacking this job myself for rod bearings

Great video Jeff!

Thanks for the DIY video. One quick tip, you dont need to disconnect the coolant hoses and drain the coolant for the side auxilary radiators. I believe theres only 1 screw on the top that holds each in place. You can remove it and move the radiator from its bracket and zip tie it out of the way. Thats what i did when doing the thrust arm bushings.

World class DIY, Great job!