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@@landonbrewer110 oh yes this absolutely worked

@@zombie21boy honestly nothing was wrong with it just did the video to be helpful

@@wadekissam22 I got a locker in it now bud 🤣

@@MoparMattt hell yea man I’ve not broke a spartan locker yet

Yes it will physically bolt up bell-housing bolt pattern is the same.

The engine will technically bolt right to it however the transmission may not last long as those transmissions weren’t made for that power. Transfer case is the same regardless so if you did want to do the swap I’d get a 46re trans to go with the 5.2/5.9 engine as far as the swap itself you’re only a computer and running 2 ground trigger wires to pcm for your 2 other injectors and tapping into the injector harness for the power for your other 2 injectors away from doing it it’s pretty easy to be honest.

@@MoparMattt i appreciate the feedback. 👍

Absolutely friend hope it helps you out 👍🏼

Literally you explained rite after I said that lol

😂

They are just spring assisted shocks I’ll see if I can get you a part number but I wanna say when I got them they are called load carrier shocks and I think these might be for the rear shocks for a f150 lol but I’ll see if I can find out more for you these have been on there for years now hard to remember.

Ok so don’t quote me on this but I believe the part number for these was 34058 Gabriel load carrier shocks and if I remember correctly they came in a pair so that part number is for the both of them. But then again it has been a long time ago since I put those on but if nothing else that’ll get ya headed in the right direction, hope this helps!

This was just the old worn out v6 and the crank was wobbling enough for the flex plate to come in contact with the crank position sensor at high rpm’s so what we’re hearing is the crank position shorting out causing it to cut ignition lol. Also this was before I v8 swapped the truck and I didn’t care about the old engine so I was just beating the crap out of it before I swapped engines. This engine still ran when I pulled it lol

Sorry just got off work and it just had an o ring on it to the best of my memory we don’t have this car anymore or I’d go check for ya anyways so you may have to turn it a few times and just pull straight up and out hope this helps!

Literally bolts in if you already have a v8 but if you have a v6 as far as wiring it’s either getting the wiring harness out of the donor truck and it’s plug and play or the way I did it. Basically you have to run the negative side of the 7&8 injectors over to the pcm and pin them into the connector mine just look up a pcm pinout diagram itll show your where to PIN number 7&8 as far as the positive side of the injectors you just tap right into the green/orange wire that powers all the injectors. I’m not sure if the coloring will be the same from truck to truck but essentially the injectors have two wires coming out of them one of the wires will be the same color on all of them that’s your positive side and the other wire is your ground trigger wires that run to the pcm. That being said you’ll also need a pcm for a v8 the same year as your truck. And if you’re just talking about the headers they are literally bolt in you might need to buy bolts if your headers don’t come with them. Hope I covered everything you were asking lol if need be I can make a video of how I did it.

Yeah I loved that car too bad it blew the head gaskets out of it about 2 months later but it truly was stock lol it hurt some feelings

They really are that fast. I had the lower powered northstar and it was almost as fast up to 50 mph.

You’re very welcome glad to help!

That goes through the fire wall for you dash vents

I’ll have to look I forgot I’ll get back to you

More than likely I’d say it is sorry I didn’t get back to you yesterday.

Glad it helped you out brother!

Bro. I'm going on 3 days now and it's been anywhere from 5-20 degrees outside. I'm just finishing it finally.

Whoopsie sorry about that

Really? How rude.

13mm mounting bolts, 8mm top for all but the 2 9mm for the 2 regulator thingy

Absolutely glad it could be of help!

I just broke mines too just enjoying to see the fan but I'ma just use some good ole duck tape to patch the hole 😂

No extra parts just kinda shoved the tube in the filter and I got it from the autozone where I work at I believe the name brand on it is spectre. Just took the top of the air box off and the filter just lays right there.

If you want good fitment go with the better ones I put these cheap ones on and now I can’t change my spark plugs cause the flange is too fat. The cheap ones are also thin metal so they get red quick too, so if you can I’d go with the good ones!

I honestly don’t think it would make a difference but I’m not 100% certain on that. It definitely will not hurt to drain first but I’d say it’s still going to hold some fluid in the filter so it’s more than likely going to spill some. Also thanks for the comment hope it helped!

It absolutely did.

As many times as I’ve been to pull a part and I never thought of that thank ya sir greatly appreciate that!

I did this exact same thing, also did you notice that when you have the big 13mm mounting bolt out if you start the engine and have a/c on, blower motor won't work, the door locks won't work and the engine will stay on until you turn off the A/c 😂 weirdest thing haha

I think it is for certain models this one ain't so easy.

2nd gen this is a 2000 model

I will look and see what I can find out when I go into work later. To answer your question about the torsion bar if it’s too tights to be able to get back together you can always loosen the torsion bar adjuster bolt which will decrease the pressure allowing you to put everything back together, once you do this you will have to retighten the torsion back up once on the ground and then just tighten till you get back to the same height you were at before you started. So measure where you were at before loosening the torsion bar then finish the job at hand then once back together retighten to get back to same height.

Correct I did not drain the fluid before doing this I had already refilled the transmission with fresh fluid beforehand. Also thanks I’m glad it helped! I really hope this helps many more thank you for commenting!

@@MoparMattt I had actually gotten to the very last part, new filter and o-ring in hand, and couldn't figure out what to do, and put it all back together. Now I know what to do, woo-hoo! :) Yeah, if you put "2003 Honda Pilot" in the title or description it might help more people find it--there all kinds of videos for other years, but not this one.

2000

I appreciate it!

Yeah buddy!!!

Thank ya much I appreciate it!

Not a problem and yes sir I actually just swapped a 360 in it

@@MoparMattt no shit. I'd love a 360 but the 318 is good with me..I average 14 miles a gallon so I can't imagine how the 360 is with price of gas right now.🤣 Man that dash was a pain in the ass to slide forward.

Oh yeah she’s about smiles per gallon now lol and yeah bud not an easy job but at least ya got it done that’s the main thing! Glad it helped ya out :)

My blower is blowing with enough force behind it on max I'm going to change it so ur tutorial will help alot bc I don't want to rip dash out like I have to to do heater core