I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
Can you tell us what amount of play is considered excessive or the angle which is considered excessive? I have about 3.5” at the end of my outdrive worth of play (7.72 degrees).
Great video and very happy to see there is a way more efficient solution. That being said will your kit work on a alpha one gen 1? I can’t seem to find anything on the gen 1s
I perform this job watching this video 3 years ago, as today the entire job still performing as expected i got the kit online from JR Marine. thanks for the information and I am more that welcome to share photos to anyone that request it.
I discovered a good way to remove the small upper steering shaft bushing, the one at the upper end of the swivel shaft. It is a blind bushing (no access behind it) and so, a special tool that expands inside it is specified. That made no sense to me - expanding a bushing in order to remove it from the hole that holds it tightly. I found the answer on an automotive site: remove it hydraulically! After the yoke is removed, reach in and fill the upper bearing cavity with grease. Then, reinsert the old swivel shaft and hit the end of it with a hammer. The pressure created inside the bearing cavity will push the bushing out! I started with a small hammer but had to work my way up to a 5# before it moved - it takes some force - but it finally did the trick. As the bushing comes out, it will eventually encounter the threads on the old swivel shaft. Remove the shaft, add some additional grease, and repeat until it pops out. I'm grateful for your excellent products and videos and hope that in some way this tip helps everyone do a more complete repair at almost no cost.
This guy just saved me $3;800. You can’t trust anyone, that’s why I check everything. My gimbal wasn’t worn out the two bolts on the u bolt we’re loose.
@@Andrico77 mine has 3.5” of play…. Yup… time to spend money. Mine affects my steering a lot, I’d say you’re on your way to needing it replaced but if the steering is fine, you could get away with it for now.
Oh. Ok. You either have unlimited amounts of cash or you are a boat mechanic. I have 2 bravo 3’s and two 5.7’s please tell us all again how much labor is involved with pulling both engines versus a small cut out to replace a gimbal ring. I’ll wait..
These videos are great, thanks so much. Only thing I can add is that when tightening the swivel shaft locknut, another way to get it correctly tightened is according to the service manual to: 1. Tighten until a clearance of .002 - .010 in. (0.05 - 0.25 mm) exists between lower swivel pin washer and gimbal housing mount using a feeler gauge. 2. Strike down on gimbal ring flanges using a plastic hammer. 3. Recheck clearance and tighten locknut as necessary.
Hi, can I know how much you pulled the nuts with the Torque wrench? Thank in advance, I want to do the same job but I can't find an online workshop manual
How stiff/loose should the gimbal be left to right on the pin? When is it too stiff or too loose left to right wise. I think my one is too stiff and can only just be moved by hand. Great video, thanks so much.
I have been a boat mechanic for almost 30 years, and this is an amazing product. I definitely recommend using his tools and the bottoming tap. It is a smooth operation with detailed instructions. I will never pull an engine to replace a gimbal ring again. Thank you, and we look forward to doing business with you in the future!
In the 70s I started with 280trs drives in new 27ft magnum boats. gimbal were splinted so was the tiller arm. Still no good today the better way latham external string that's the best end of problem
I have excessive play left and right on my stern drive my left gimble ring bolt is tightenable but the right is just turning not tightening This is invaluable info Thanks
Just did this repair on my 2001 Sea Ray with a bravo 3, Ron and the products of J-R Marine were a huge money saver, thanks Ron!
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
I used a ratcheting 5/8” wrench ($7)for the thru bolt and a normal 1 1/16 wrench ($8) for the top nut. Also I put a 1/4” brass fuel connector and 1/4” ID fuel line to reconnect the gear lube line (zip ties to clamp)Great instructions.
Can you tell us what amount of play is considered excessive or the angle which is considered excessive? I have about 3.5” at the end of my outdrive worth of play (7.72 degrees).
I'm Brazilian and I need to print the model to make the cut. where can i get it please
Great video and very happy to see there is a way more efficient solution. That being said will your kit work on a alpha one gen 1? I can’t seem to find anything on the gen 1s
Why has the cost of this repair doubled from a year ago?
You’re telling me… I got like a 3.5k quote from a CHEAP marina.
What is the part number for that block off plate ?
I perform this job watching this video 3 years ago, as today the entire job still performing as expected i got the kit online from JR Marine. thanks for the information and I am more that welcome to share photos to anyone that request it.
What generation 1 or 2? thanks
Hey thank you very much from Germany. Is it possibel to get a repair set from you? I have a Bravo 3 with a Mercruiser 4,2 D-tronic (250 HP each).
*gimbal
*gimbal
Where do I order the kit?
How much play is too much play. I have about 2” each side.
Ever find out the answer?
@@Dwq47nope. But I bought his kit. Will do this year.
I discovered a good way to remove the small upper steering shaft bushing, the one at the upper end of the swivel shaft. It is a blind bushing (no access behind it) and so, a special tool that expands inside it is specified. That made no sense to me - expanding a bushing in order to remove it from the hole that holds it tightly. I found the answer on an automotive site: remove it hydraulically! After the yoke is removed, reach in and fill the upper bearing cavity with grease. Then, reinsert the old swivel shaft and hit the end of it with a hammer. The pressure created inside the bearing cavity will push the bushing out! I started with a small hammer but had to work my way up to a 5# before it moved - it takes some force - but it finally did the trick. As the bushing comes out, it will eventually encounter the threads on the old swivel shaft. Remove the shaft, add some additional grease, and repeat until it pops out. I'm grateful for your excellent products and videos and hope that in some way this tip helps everyone do a more complete repair at almost no cost.
Hice ese trabajo sin tirar el motor de su lugar y sin modificar las piezas originales, solo modifique mis herramientas, si una persona de ayuda.
Sound like a guy that’s done this a few hundred times
Pro level vid👍
34 year old boat running nice, smooth, and tight thanks to these guys.
Ron your video says 55 foot pounds but the paper slip in the kit says 50. What one should I do?
This guy just saved me $3;800. You can’t trust anyone, that’s why I check everything. My gimbal wasn’t worn out the two bolts on the u bolt we’re loose.
You "unloosened" the bolt eh? Doesn't that mean to tighten??
What an unbrilliant and unkind comment.
All wrong
Ok so thank you for saving me a bunch of time, money and grief right after i finish writing this comment I'm going to put a for sale sign on my boat
Can I replace just the gimbal u bolt with removing the whole gimbal housing
Without removing the gimbal housing
Man ! Sure hope I never have to do this.
How much play in drive is too much. Mine swings 1 inch each way
Ever find your answer?
@@Dwq47 nope
@@Andrico77 mine has 3.5” of play…. Yup… time to spend money. Mine affects my steering a lot, I’d say you’re on your way to needing it replaced but if the steering is fine, you could get away with it for now.
This guy is the biggest hack I have ever seen
Oh. Ok. You either have unlimited amounts of cash or you are a boat mechanic. I have 2 bravo 3’s and two 5.7’s please tell us all again how much labor is involved with pulling both engines versus a small cut out to replace a gimbal ring. I’ll wait..
FYI mercury has a similar solution drilling holes in the side but this version is way better. So who is the hack.
I was wondering why my bravo 1 had that plate bolted on the top. Now I know they used this process.
You da man. Thanks so much for your help
You just saved me a hell allot of cash! Thanks!
These videos are great, thanks so much. Only thing I can add is that when tightening the swivel shaft locknut, another way to get it correctly tightened is according to the service manual to: 1. Tighten until a clearance of .002 - .010 in. (0.05 - 0.25 mm) exists between lower swivel pin washer and gimbal housing mount using a feeler gauge. 2. Strike down on gimbal ring flanges using a plastic hammer. 3. Recheck clearance and tighten locknut as necessary.
How can I get the template and cover
Really Good explanation. Greetings from the V8Lounge in Germany
Why jump over the most interesting part, how to put on the gear lube hose onto the bell housing? Looking for some tips how to accomplish this easily.
Hi where do I get the template from please for the cut out
Hi, can I know how much you pulled the nuts with the Torque wrench? Thank in advance, I want to do the same job but I can't find an online workshop manual
Good video, but I would like to learn more about the name of this brilliant gasket, and where it can be ordered?
How stiff/loose should the gimbal be left to right on the pin? When is it too stiff or too loose left to right wise. I think my one is too stiff and can only just be moved by hand. Great video, thanks so much.
Ever get your answer?
Lol, don't try this at home kids...
This is a very good video much appreciated
Do you have a procedure video for a ceased merc 350 v8?
I have been a boat mechanic for almost 30 years, and this is an amazing product. I definitely recommend using his tools and the bottoming tap. It is a smooth operation with detailed instructions. I will never pull an engine to replace a gimbal ring again. Thank you, and we look forward to doing business with you in the future!
So you’d say you’re pretty good at spotting a bad gimbal ring?
Need help installation engine v6 4.3 in the boat sea ray pl
What is that outboard jack? Is it custom made or can it be purchased?
Hello does anyone have the number I can call for the wrenches and JM kit
In the 70s I started with 280trs drives in new 27ft magnum boats. gimbal were splinted so was the tiller arm. Still no good today the better way latham external string that's the best end of problem
I have excessive play left and right on my stern drive my left gimble ring bolt is tightenable but the right is just turning not tightening This is invaluable info Thanks
You have to stop putting greasy nuts in you mouth.