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I don’t suppose you’ll be at warbirds?

Nup. Do you have a way I can contact you other than sharing personal contact details on social media ?

@@JackFrost-b1k You can send me a friend request on FB or try st2george@gmail.com

Zakari

Thanks, for me it’s fun.

Thanks, I'll give it a go on the fin in a few weeks.

Me too, it's been a long time coming. I've had the kit for about 15 years but I was working outside of Australia for most of that time so progress was slow to nonexistent. I'm into it now that I'm retired. I really want it flying by the end of our summer, it's the beginning of spring right now!

I can believe that. I have some 3" bias tape, it will certainly go around curves really well but it has its own problems too. Good call though, I'll give it a try on the VS.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for watching!

No, I didn't consider the Verner until fairly recently, after I'd bought and paid for the Rotec. The Verner is lighter since it doesn't have a reduction gearbox. On the negative the Verner isn't as attractive as the rotec and in Australia the Verner is about $4k more expensive. If I were to make the same decision today I'd still choose the Rotec. Good question though, ask me again in a couple of years I might have a different answer but I hope not.

​@@pauloconnor2813that ia my grandad

Yes, progressing along. I haven’t identified exactly what the root cause of the problem is with the Renegade is suffice to say that something came adrift in the alternator area, damaged some of the rotating parts and I assume would have damaged the stator as well so I bought another seized engine for spare parts. I’ll get on to it pretty soon as the open cockpit flying days are getting closer every day. Thanks for watching.

Thanks 👍

Thanks for your kind words Olga. I just wish I could make good videos.

You're very welcome. Just let me know if you want to see anything in particular

Not at all, it's brand new

You're welcome, just be very careful working around tensioned bungees, they store a serious amount of energy.

quite fun task to do, working position and effort 😅 either go to gym or install bungees 💪 thank you for the videos 🙏🙏👍👍

I agree, that would be bad.

I'm glad you like it

Many thanks!

I wish I could claim it as my own but I must have seen it somewhere.

Tahiti, this aeroplane is made from an aluminium skeleton,overextended with a heat shrinkable fabric material.

❤អរគុណច្រើន

ជំរាបសួរលោកតើស្លាប់យន្តហោះជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី។តើតួយន្តហោះជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី❤

Thanks for that. I think my foam brush was falling to bits. Once I changed that and mixed up some new Ekobond, no more lumpy bits.

Thanks Pedro, I was just having some fun.

You need to have two joins, one at the leading edge, the other at the trailing edge. On a small component like an aileron for instance you could wrap the fabric all the way around and put the joins at the T.E. but it isn’t quite as easy as it sounds.

I have to agree with you, it’s difficult to listen to. I’ll try to improve but don’t hold your breath.

No, I didn't build the other two. I bought them already in flying condition.

Thanks for watching! Pedro, I’ll keep making them if you keep watching them

Thanks for the feedback, I can never be too sure if the audience likes my videos or not. I’ll keep making videos and assume that most people like them. If you find yourself near Temora look me up, maybe we can go for a fly.

They sure were. Derek has two Fishers, both are equally nice. He travels lots so he's definitely the person to listen to regarding all things biplane.

To be honest, I really don't know for sure but it won't matter for what I'm trying to do with the cowls. Some designers choose to canter the engine centerline off a few degrees but Murphy chose to move the leading edge of the fin off to one side, depending on the rotation of the engine. I don't remember the exact measurement but it was something like 1/2". My RV6 has the fin on the centerline and the engine a few degrees off like you say but you wouldn't want both methods of correction on the same aeroplane.

That’s right, the wheel track is not the same. The 582 is 58” and the Rotec is 68”. The Rotec Renegade required much longer undercarriage legs and also much heavier. The extra length is required since the Rotec swings a much larger prop. Even with the longer undercarriage, the prop clearance is barely sufficient.

I'll do my best.

Are you referring to this particular video or one of the earlier ones? This particular one seems pretty good to me. I know I've had problems in the past.

I have noted it on a few of your videos, sounds like you are far away from the microphone.@@pauloconnor2813

It's a Rotax 912s 100hp. It doesn't perform a whole lot better than the 582, except in climb of course but actual cruise speed is only about 5kts or less better. Fuel consumption is about the same.

Sorry, I missed the part about the smoke….. there’s only one overboard vent and that’s from the lube oil tank. You can see the “g” meter in some parts of the video. As best as I can make out I was pulling 0g over the top of the loop. The oil in the tank would have made its way to the vent ( that exits near the muffler). Some of this oil would have contacted the hot exhaust and quickly turned to smoke. The remainder ok the oil went back and fully coated the underside of the fuselage.

Nah, not windy. It's mostly wind noise in the microphone. It's rarely windy by the coast in Peru. I think it's just too close to the equator. The red Renegade has a higher wing loading so it is less susceptible to strong wind than the cream one. The short answer is I don't know because I never explore that part of the envelope and since the aeroplane is not built for cruising you're highly unlikely to arrive at an airport a couple of hundred miles from home and have to deal with a strong crosswind for instance.

The Chinook is similar, it's wing loading is pretty low so it has all the same issues as the Renegade. Like you could see, light wing loading and strong thermals don't really mix. That particular flight we had a great time flying along the beach. The "rodeo" only started on the base leg, thankfully.

I confused the anti-chafe tape with the reinforcing tape. I put the reinforcing tape UNDER the fabric instead of ON TOP of the fabric so I’m going to redo all of the fabric once it arrives from Aircraft Spruce. I’ll do much better the second time around.

Sure John, I simply stuffed up and confused the three different types of tapes used with fabric. This was purely out of ignorance, I have never worked with fabric in my life. The three tapes are: anti chafing tape used where the fabric might contact a piece of structure and eventually cut through over time. Next is reinforcing tape (I mistook this for anti chafing tape but that's totally not it's job. It's meant to go over the fabric and under the rivets (or rib stitching) in order to better distribute the load over the fabric. I put my reinforcing tape under the fabric so it wasn't reinforcing anything it was just acting as a very expensive anti chafe tape. Lastly, comes the finishing tape that basically fairs the rivets into the fabric. Of course, in the case of rib stitching this final, picked tape would protect the stitches. Now, to get back to your problem. From memory, that bow is supposed to be held to the rear spar/fuel tank with one rivet. It just takes one clumsy passenger to think it's a great place to use as a grab-handle. Having built my fuel tanks I'm surprised they don't all leak. The fits and gaps between the components making up the tank are horrible. There are a few things you could try, if you're sure the leak is coming from around the bow to rearspar area you could cut away a small piece of fabric to expose the area, drain the tank, clean the area with a solvent. Most solvents will damage the fabric but you said that your's is already damaged. The actual fuel tank sealant is called Proseal. It's a two part goo that can be used to coat the suspected leak. Once this Proseal goes off it should seal the leak. After that you can think about repairing the fabric so be neat and don't cut too much fabric away to expose the leak. BTW where do you live? Proseal is pretty much impervious to most fuels but it's not too happy with ethanol. Another option and I really not a fan of this is to drain the tank, remove the wing, it's really not as bad as it sounds, there's a liquid you can buy that comes in a 1lt or 1qt can called sloshing compound. You simply pour this material into the tank then rotate the wing every which way in order to coat the entire internal surface of the tank, then drain the remainder of the liquid out. Lastly you could cut a hand hole in the top of the tank near the leak, use the Proseal method then install a cover plate over the hand hole, with Proseal, of course. Good luck

Well this is your lucky day. I’ve videoed the process but I haven’t edited it yet, I’ll do that in the next couple of days. The fabric rivets were really easy to remove, the reinforcing tapes were really well attached to the ribs. Thanks again for watching. Are you thinking of building?

Thanks Scott, I'll take a look at your build. Glad you spoke up when you did, I would have just carried on doing it wrong right to the end. Good luck

My spars are 1.5” x 3.5”. I don’t know if all renegade rectangular spars are the same dimensions, I can’t imagine Murphy making the spars different dimensions, other than length of course

Thanks. It looked bigger than 3.5" on the video.

Most of mine are pretty good. Two units are just about useless, only 3 of the 4 legs will touch the ground at any time and it's not the wooden beam that's twisted, the leg sections are just poorly made. They do look good though.

You're 100% correct. I thought about going down the path of mentioning other options but I rejected the idea. I usually say in my videos that they are not 'how-to' videos, they are simply how I do any particular job not necessarily how it should be done. I appreciate your observation though. Thanks for watching.

I love the hangar too, it’s 19m X 18m. I try to do an update at the end of each month, there wasn’t much to update this month on the Renegade build. Hope you enjoy watching, it’s a bit like mining…… you have to move a lot of dirt to find a gem.

Thanks, there’s nothing real difficult but lots of processes to go through.

I think the fabric supplied in the kit is Ceconite but it doesn't really matter. Most fabrics these days are polyester fabric. It looks a bit like sailboat sail cloth but lighter. The really big difference is in the chemicals used on the fabric to anchor it to the airframe structure and to seal the weave. I'll address these topics in future videos. For now, I'll just say I'm using Stewart Systems on my coverings. It uses water as a "solvent" this is opposed to polyfibre solvents that include MEK, quite nasty to human health. On the subject of rib stitching, that's not called for on this particular kit. It calls for large head aluminum rivets to attach the fabric to the structure. I'll be addressing this in future videos as well.

Hi, you can ask whatever questions you have here on FB, if the answers to your questions get too long then I'll give you my email.

@pauloconnor2813 it's for my dad! He doesn't have FB and wanted an email to ask a question to. If not, I totally understand and will let him know

Ok, I can do that, you can use st2george@gmail.com Sorry to do that to you but most of my audience are over 65 and 100% are men. I'll be glad to answer your dad's questions as best I can.

What you're asking here is a pretty big question. I didn't build the 582 Renegade or the 912s (100hp) so I can't comment too much about them except bits and pieces I've stumbled across along the way.the 582 aircraft is a RENEGADE II, it was designed around the lower HP 2-stroke Rotax engines and as far as I can tell from mine, it's pretty much perfect, we'll balanced, controls are well harmonized. It has round main spars in the wings and a load limit of +6g. The fuselage has a squareish shape when viewed from the front. It's only lacking some power with two people on board but one-up it's perfect. My 912s Renegade is a Renegade Spirit. It has large rectangular section wing main spars with a +10/-6g load limit. Since it has the big round radial looking engine cowel, the stringers the non-structual pieces that give the fuselage it's shape were moved out in order to give the fuselage a more rounded shape to match the cowl. I'll try to answer your other questions in time and I am planning to do a couple of fabric videos but I have to learn how to do it myself first! Thanks for your kind feedback.

You're right, the filter had to be cut away slightly where it passes by a protrusion on the carburetor ( might be the accelerator pump) anyway, the red stuff is red RTV hi-temp silastic. Filter fits the carb perfectly.

The simple answer is, this engine can't operate upside down or, more precisely can't operate at zero or negative g load. The first thing to notice is the carburetor. It's a simple 1940s technology device that meters fuel flow to the engine. Inside the carburetor is a float that maintains a correct level of fuel in the bowl of the carburetor but under negative g loads the float goes wide open, thus flooding the engine with raw fuel. This causes the engine to run really badly or maybe even to stop altogether! While all this is happening the engine oil is flung up to the top of the sump, away from the oil pickup tube. In order to address both of these shortfalls I tend to stay away from negative g maneuvers. Even in a barrel roll, the aircraft is pulling positive g the whole time, even during the inverted part of the maneuver. Aircraft you see at airshows flying inverted, first of all won't be using a standard carburetor, they will either be using a very sufisticated carburetor or, more likely a fuel injected engine, these engines don't rely on gravity to operate. The oil system is usually addressed by using an engine with a 'dry sump'. What this simply means is the oil is supplied from an external tank that us able to supply oil at all different attitudes of the aeroplane. A number of pumps located inside the engine gather this oil up and return it to the external oil tank i.e. the sump stays 'dry' Yes, my engine is 4-stroke. It has two, independent ignition systems, so the loss of one ignition system should not cause a total engine failure.

Thanks for that explanation Paul. A further question: Is it correct to assume that your Renegades with the 582, 912 and now Rotec are set up with basic carburetors? And the air manoeuvres you had performed were all positive g??