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The new / recall replacement Yeti link comes with a fuse, but I did my integration before that was available. I put a 100 amp fuse at the bus bar in the battery case ( see 29:00) to protect the positive wire from there to the bus bar under the drivers seat. Then I used an 80A circuit breaker to protect the positive cable run to the back of the van where the Yeti/link is located. I chose a circuit breaker there instead of a fuse so I could simply reset it (reach in from side and do by hand) instead of having to replace a fuse (would require removing seat) if it ever had issues on the road.

@@DadsVan thanks for the clarification. Again nice work.

Thank you and good luck with your build!

Wow that’s crazy! I would find another dealership for service. Glad it worked. Good luck with your build!

They can be removed. Eights bolts total to remove all three panels, or just loosen two to slide one panel out (in order front to back). Good luck with your build!

Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!

For these speakers it was the 6.5” speaker adapter with 5.625” ID mounting diameter

Ok makes sense. The whole issue with the original design was the cable can work its way lose from the connection causing issues that overheat and melt part of it. The replacement I got included a new locking bracket that I screwed into the back of the unit. I wonder if the new units have that feature built in rather than an add on.

When I did this it was just the EC8 cable recall. So no I had seen they recalled the whole link module. I will check mine and address if needed for sure!

I did the recall and got my package 2 days ago. New cable looks way more beefy. I actually don’t know how it’s gonna fit where my old plug is lol

@melvfernandez Thank for sharing the update. Hope it works out!

To optimize use of the output ports on the Yeti. In my build, all the Yeti 12V outputs are connected to the fuse block using a combo cable. Then the fuse block gets 40A and I can connect all sorts of things of different amp ratings to the fuse block. This is better than using up the whole 10A DC “cigarette” port on the Yeti to run one thing that only draws a few amps at most. Look at my other videos on electrical. Not sure your house battery type and what’s available. It even if you have just one DC port, it could be broken out to a panel to allow more things to be run as long as you stay under the max amps of that port.

@@DadsVan oh well yea that makes sense then. In the video it’s only being used for one thing which was the source of the confusion.

@thepatternforms859 Lol. No worries! It was the first thing I hooked up. Thanks for the comments

The roof is sheet metal not fiber glass. The rails are installed in the roof channel per manufacturer requirements. Solid as a rock and no issues

That is great to hear! Thank you and happy road tripping!

I did not have to move the hole for the interior light. All lights remain in their factory positions

@@DadsVan may I asked what you used to cut the headliner?

@bpetersonaz I used a box cutter. It was tough in a few areas where the headliner is thicker, but got the job done. Good luck with your build!

Thank you! It makes a big difference in sound and temperature. Good luck with your build!

Thanks for the feedback!

You’re welcome!

Does the front of the vehicle look like the model years 2019 and newer? Or the previous style from 2018 and before

Is your rig built on NCV3 or VS30?

Thank you for supporting our channel!

It is! Roomy and nice height too! eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/tents/camping/jade-canyon-x4-person-tent

th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa3BfZFJtSGFpNEdLTlF4dHFmZTVVWVUzaHBXQXxBQ3Jtc0tuTDdWU2dZcXp2Nm41RzhnWXVEZTE1d1JSWm1MM3R6N3JDaU9RckQza0oxLXI2RWFtMWRqWnpFVVNWcHRMbFNwRmI0TkxzTTdWMXFYc1EzS0dqUl9CR2FwdWRhdGl3NTVQVnZONGRSS3hkcDQ4cVZvUQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F3FbmPJ6&v=E7HHDj6GVd8

I have had no problems. Lived in snowy cold climate and now tropical warm. All is good!

@@DadsVan great, thanks!

The only issue I’ve encountered is when the USB outlet doesn’t have high enough amps it will cause the arms to not close. Did you try another outlet?

Thank you for sharing! Good to know

Thanks for the kind words! Good to hear it was helpful. Have fun out there!

Thank you! I am glad it helped. Good luck with your build!

Sorry to hear about your experience! This is the only one I’ve had to deal with thus far. If you disconnect the power by gas pedal before removing seat this code will not occur.

50 feet roll, 60” wide

Are you stoked on the result? Did it quiet it down at all? And then looks like no sound deadening? Thanks Bill

Also did you think about putting two layers where there was room?

Yes, it significantly reduces sound. My van sounded like a rattling metal box until I did this. Could not even talk or listen to music without being loud. I did use vibration dampening in the van too. These areas in the insulation video had stock vibration dampening pads so I didn’t add much more. My channel has another vid on those dampening pads.

I did not consider two layers. I was happy with results from one, and wanted to save some in case I needed it later.

Thank you!

Glad you’re back up and running!

Thank you and I’m glad it was helpful. I could not find any info on wiring that sliding door speaker which is what motivated me to make the video. Good luck with your build!

Good point! They are made by Klein: amzn.to/46Djy3h

Try this one. Contact Hein and give him specs on the woofer you want to install so he can cut it correctly. www.ebay.com/itm/133897494562?mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&ssspo=alIbFw-4T36&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vhqee2hztso&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY&siteid=0&campid=5338601399&customid=&toolid=10001

Thank you! I really wanted the speaker there so had to figure this one out carefully. It wasn’t easy but works great now.

Thank you and good luck with your upgrade!

Did you run the antenna up the side of the van? I ran mine from under passenger seat where heater is up the B pillar

Did you pair the remote per the initial setup instructions on pg 11 of the manual? You have to pair it using the “button” connected to the main unit. Basically you push the button, it will flash, and then on the remote navigate to the Pair Mode / Add menu option and select that.

Both. 300W solar on roof (3 x 100W panels) and then I also tie into the alternator using the yeti car link. Videos for both are on my channel.

Oh, and I also have a 120V shore power hookup on side of van that feeds into two charging inputs. So three total charging options. The battery is almost always full

The 12V socket can do 10 amps. That’s plenty for the fan. The 7.5 amp rating and fuse for the fan is a max. It won’t ever hit that but that’s the required protection. I actually combo the 12V with the all the other outputs using an adapter to get 40 amps to the distribution block. Then I break that out to power everything in my van. Fan, led lights, fridge, heater. There’s still room to hookup more, and eventually I’ll add water pump and cooktop

You bet! Thanks for watching and good luck with your van!

That is normal when the key is in ignition but only in accessory mode. It is a internal check that the light is working

You bet! Thanks and good luck with your build!

Yes! I have videos for the platform bed as well as the folding seat. If you mean the platform bed, there are two videos. Here is part 1: Platform bed install in Sprinter van Part 1 - L-track mounting th-cam.com/video/DLLX6eKNq2g/w-d-xo.html

@@DadsVan Thanks

Here is the link to the series: th-cam.com/play/PLJm3gbVNV2xcg1VkWe6NhOS53pjzekH8a.html

@@DadsVan Thanks, I have the Ikea parts. I was also wanting to install to LTRACK. The attachments are gold. Thanks for the tip

The video description has the part number. Here it is: US Cargo Control part# 1519-EBF www.uscargocontrol.com/Double-Stud-Fitting-w-Bolt-Thread That attaches to ltrack, then I bolt it to angle steel, then bolt through the angle steel and through the ikea bar and through the platform panel

I don’t have a shop per se, just work out of my home garage

Thanks for sharing!

Yeah I thought about that but felt the wood subfloor plus vinyl plank floor that includes a bottom layer of insulation was enough. So far no regrets.

Thank you! The upgrade is totally worth it! Good luck with your build!

Thanks for the kind words! Good luck with your build and adventures to come!

You bet! Thanks for watching!

Depends how depleted the battery was, but typically 5 min max. You need to rev the engine of the other car to speed up the process. It may also help to rev engine of other car while trying to start the van.