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You will have to pull up the window by hand. Just be careful of the glass

Un video di merda

Did you solve The problem? I have The same one after I fixed the regulator.

www.amazon.com/Power-window-regulator-Mercedes-clk320/dp/B07FCR6HBX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=213Q6GASPC9OU&keywords=2004+mercedes+benz+CLK+rear+window+kit&qid=1696339622&sprefix=2004+mercedes+benz+clk+rear+window+kit%2Caps%2C95&sr=1-4-catcorr&vehicle=2004-63-827-20---6-7-7423--1-1-1721--1&vehicleName=2004+Mercedes-Benz+CLK500 www.amazon.com/Power-window-regulator-Mercedes-clk320/dp/B07FB41K9S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=213Q6GASPC9OU&keywords=2004+mercedes+benz+CLK+rear+window+kit&qid=1696339622&sprefix=2004+mercedes+benz+clk+rear+window+kit%2Caps%2C95&sr=1-5-catcorr&vehicle=2004-63-827-20---6-7-7423--1-1-1721--1&vehicleName=2004+Mercedes-Benz+CLK500

hell yeah! its not to bad at all. in the end of the day. its just nuts and bolts

I believe so,I have a convertible.And that side piece is one big piece down to the bottom of the seat

How did u get around it ? I'm in the same predicament ?!

@@motorbreath7174 If I remember correctly I believe using the window roll down/up buttons there was a combination that released the tension on the regulator allowing you to move the window.

thank you

you cant do the job in about 30-50 mins

Id say it took with about 30-50 Minutes.

@@robskates51 thank you sir

honestly you dont have to but if you have a convertible then you might have to do so

your welcome! yes its easier than the radiator. i replace my radiator and water pump before and it was way more time consuming. The only problem i had with the windows was putting the interior panel back on with the hooks that lock the panels together. other than that is was way easier than expected

@@robskates51 the one set back I had was the window was stuck in one area and would not budge any further up. So it was one heck of a task to somehow get to the window bolts. Once that was off I saw the wire was jammed in the wheel pulley and not moving

Hey Robert, just reinstalled the regulator with new wheel and wires. Hit the roll up button but the regulator track stops early. Wanted to see what you think it is. Wires looked perfect but you think the regulator is toast? It goes up and down but not all the way up allowing me to attach window. Your thoughts is you have a chance

@@JashertheGiantKiller you might have to trying clicking the up button instead of holding.. so try doing click and if you can get the window regulator all the way up. if not check the window cables and make sure they are both even. if the wires are getting jammed in the pulley. you will want to try and redo the steps on putting the wire on the pulleys. they pretty much go on one way.. another thing i can think of is if your kit came with one short wire and one long wire you could have them swapped (the longer cable should go to the top of the Regulator track and the Short one should be at the bottom pulley on the regulator track). but if they are both the same length then just make sure when you put the wires on the "Glider" and that it is centered between the two brackets like . 7:31 - 7:40 in the video. check your Gear pulley where the motor hooks up to and the bottom wire should be on the upper part of the gear Pulley and the upper wire should be on the bottom part of the gear pulley. i hope im not making it too confusing.

at 7:52 is what im talking about the Gear Pulley and the wire on top is the one that leads to the bottom pulley on the regulator track ( the bottom is the narrow area of the regulator track).

i see what you mean. it does make sense. i figured the reason why they have the smaller diameter side is to guide the cable onto the pulley because there is a black tab that kind of locks the cable onto the pulley so it doesnt slip off and the smaller diameter sections is the only place the cable can slide on to the pulley between the tab and pulley.. one of mine was bent so i took a hammer and tapped it a little bit to rebend it that way the cable wont jump/slide off the pulley

nice!. im glad the video helped. its so nice to have the rear windows work. it feel like a new car!!

But i dont have a regulator because the rear windows dont go down for mine

butterfly bolt? are you talking about the bottom bolt for the regulator?

if so all i did was to get a vice grip and grip it on the larger flat/washer part of the bolt and carefully squeeze it as best you can and make sure you dont hit the threads or clamp the threads, and just get your rachet or drill and unscrew the nut from the bolt

Hi Robert. Thanks for the post. it looks so simple , but I can’t do mine. If you are in south Florida, would help fixing mine?

@@Aplouis2 i wish i was in South Florida or else i wouldnt mind helping out. its pretty easy to do once you dig into it

@@robskates51great tutorial video thanks! Are you by any chance in the NYC area?

hahaha yeah those damn wipers

What turbo?8psi means nothing without knowing which turbo u can make 400hp on 8psi with a big turbo and u can make 250hp on the same boost level(8psi) with a tiny turbo fuel also plays a huge role depends on which fuel

If it feels like it's pulling really hard on stock ECU it's probably because it's running super lean. Wideband O2 wouldn't work with the stock ECU either so you'd have no idea. Narrowband (0-1V) O2 is worthless on a gauge.

i put in new injectors a few years back and just never got a tune. ill try to revive the car so i can get it running again.

B16 is about 130WHP. D16Y7 (non-vtec, even) on 5psi is putting down 160 to 170 WHP. GSR doesn't make up enough power to keep up with that.

That's some funny shit right there

Wow I just noticed it wtf lmao what a hack

Its beacuse where I live. Its kinda hard finding a tuner to tune your car when you need to. The closest tuner is 2 hrs away. And I want to get my car dyno tuned in salt lake wich is 3hrs away and he is hard to get a hold of. My plan is to get 450 - 500 hp. But first I need new injrctors

Im not sure. the guy that tuned my car would know but that was a while ago

yes i did. i love the response with the 10.3 cr and it seemed to have a lot more torque and just all around better but i wouldnt know how much boost you can have with just pump gas with 10.3 compression. but now im runnin 17lbs with the 7.5 cr and i like it because its faster because more boost but still the bottem end sucks really bad but my goal is to run 27psi with a dyno tune so ill see how that is... but if i was to start over. i would get the 10.3 compression and get it dyno tuned right away with my methonal injection. then ill have a good ass d16 makin some real power. but then again. i want to run 27psi and ill see if that changes my mind...

I loved it. you can feel the difference. at least I did. and it wasn't tune good at all. it had a lot of problems... If you get 10ish compression. please get it dyno tuned. all I did was get a street tune. and I ended up melting my pistons because the tuner didn't do too go on that tune.. and I used 91 the hole time. and with the launch control. I had it set at 4800 rpm.. you can do that with the tune. but its set to high. im runnin 225/45 17 tires and it just sits there and goes no where.. even with low compression.. I would set mine at 3000 rpm for launch control (2 step). but im going to get lsd, new transmission and new axels and maybe I can have the launch control a 5000rpm. yeah sorry if the videos wernt that good of a comparison but I tried.. but with high compression. your only limited to how much boost on pump gas. that's why I have water meth injection so I can up it with out using race fuel.. one thing about high compression what sucks but was awesome was I finaly got a good shift from 1st to 2nd and it just sat there spinnin and didn't go no where. even with my huge tires haha. but that why get lsd for the trans

+Robert Slawinski melted the Pistons ? Ouch what did your air fuel ratio looked like under wot

Robert Slawinski I hate vitaras they have awful lag