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Thanks for the kind words. The T5 in this is 24" but you could use a 36"

I glad you like them. The tile adhesive is called thin set motar in US. Make sure you get the flexible type as it is far better than the non flexible. The clue on the bag will be that it works on timer floors. The glue I use is just solvent free grab adhesive. A trade name here is no more nails but you should be able to find other brands cheaper. I use a quick drying acrylic varnish to seal the rocks at the end. The clue on the tin will be use water to clean bushes. Hope this helps.

@@sauriandomain.7092 thank you!!

I ended up doing at least four coats on most of it but some areas had more when I had some left over mix. I did put more on the basking site so it would hold heat a bit better.

@@sauriandomain.7092 Amazing thank you

The background is made from polystyrene foam and flexible tile mortar. There are build videos here on my channel for a different enclosure.

@@sauriandomain.7092 thank you

I made the background. Here on my channel there is a series that shows the process on another enclosure. You will need to check locally for lighting supplies. I am in the UK so any links would be from UK suppliers. Also some of the items are only available in EU

@@sauriandomain.7092 thank you

Its not difficult. I use a small scrubbing brush or toothbrush. I also have a steam cleaner which softens any poop that may be stuck on.

@@sauriandomain.7092 thanks for replying

I usually source them from a glass supplier but they are also available on Amazon and eBay.

@@sauriandomain.7092 thank you! . I had just finished building the 5 fit Viv from the build plan PDF, now I just need to get glass installed.

We must have spoken elsewhere but I don't recognise you because we all have different screen names on here. You'll have to tag me elsewhere so I know who you are🤣 I really like DHP and have them in several of my enclosures as part of the all round lighting set up. Have you seen the video of my occelleta set up I have on here? I show how I use it it that video. They work best on a dimming stat but tbh most houses don't need nightime heat. I'm in the UK and only tend to get a couple of days a year where heat would be useful at night so it's not really needed. A couple of cold nights isn't going to hurt them but I would provide it if we had a prolonged cold spell.

@@sauriandomain.7092 In uromastyx group. Jessica Ozack. :) I am building an enclosure and keep asking questions everywhere. Like wiring and lighting placements etc.. I will look for that video now

Thanks for the kind words. You could g t away without sealing it as long as you use flexible adhesive. Flexible adhesive has polymers in it which make it flexible. Once it is cured it is not porous. I just prefer to seal my backgrounds for easier cleaning with a steam cleaner.

Thanks for the kind words. I am probably the least artistic person I know but because rocks are so random you don't need to be super arty. The polystyrene holds up fine. I use multiple flood bulbs for basking so there is not any really hot concentration in a single area like you could get with a spot bulb. Because the tile adhesive I use is cement based and coated thick it acts like stone in spreading heat over the area. Obviously it cools down quicker than natural stone at lights out.

@@sauriandomain.7092 I would love to do this for my Uro. I plan on watching these videos over and over. Thanks for taking the time to post them all!

Sand or any other loose substrate does not cause impaction. Impaction is usually a sign that something is off with husbandry. A healthy, well hydrated animal with a varied diet and adequate heat and UVB provision will pass substrate if a small amount is ingested. Obviously this depends on the substrate and certain things should be avoided at all costs, calci sand, walnut shells, etc. One thing that is often overlooked is intentional ingestion due to mineral deficiencies. At times animals will eat aubstrat in an effort to combat this. Varied died and suitable supplimentation are key also.

@@sauriandomain.7092 ah, i see, thank you!

@Mr Florence I guess you could in a humid hide as it would hold some moisture. I'm not a fan of coconut fibre and prefer to use sand, soil, clay and stone mixes. Many keepers use a simple top soil/sand mixture.

@Mr Florence congratulations on your new family member. Geyri are wonderful animals and are super vibrant once they are fired up. Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you find my set up inspiring. Rocks are a great addition to the substrate mix. It will help keep the nails trim and help with shedding. Give the fibre a go and see how you get on. If you use FB Uromastyx Club is a good group to join for advice and inspiration. Arids Only has a great website and channel that are definitely worth taking a look at too.

A large hot basking zone bathed in good quality UVB, that is big enough to cover the whole animal, is essential. UVB and heat work together to complete the D3 cycle so providing both in the same area at optimal levels is paramount. Conversely keeping a well lit, open area with little or no UVB coverage is just as important in keeping an animal active instead of hiding This set up the employs the light and shade method. In simple terms it means high heat and high UVB in one area and low heat and no UVB in another, with a gradient of both in between. Using this method allows the animal to choose it's UVB exposure and thermoregulate without needing to hide to escape either. If we think about a sunny day the strongest UV exposure is when we are in direct sunlight. If we move into the shade it gets cooler and UV levels drop but light levels remain high. An animal will do this in it's natural environment so offering this in your set up allows your animal to display and enact natural, instictive behaviours. m.facebook.com/groups/396395070428291/permalink/2646664178734691/

@@sauriandomain.7092 thanks

All lights off at night. If you live somewhere that has really cold nightime drops a non light emitting heater like an Arcadia DHP, a megaray heat projector or a ceramic should be used.

Thanks

The ones in this viv are 70mm sofit vents bought from eBay for around £5 for 10. You can also get them in white from Screwfix for £4. You need an appropriate sized hole saw to fit them. You could also use Louvre vents or adjustable vents which need a jigsaw to cut the hole. Alternatively a series of holes could be covered with a vent rather than cutting a hole.

This was around 16-17" if I remember correctly. I generally use 14% Arcadia T5 tubes and set the basking site at 18" to achieve a UVI of around 6.0.

@@sauriandomain.7092 Thanks for the info

@Triggs One the reflector foil will only reflect UVB on one side. It should be fitted the right way around straight from the box but personally I would always check it as mistakes can happen. You need to make sure the side that will scratch off is facing the tube.

@Triggs One 35cm is in the range Arcadia suggest for bearded dragons and should give you UVI readings around 5.0. I can't add screenshots to comments but check out Arcadia's UV tool which gives suggested distances and ranges for a wide range of reptiles. www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/guide/

@Triggs One just a small scratch test on one corner to help identify which side is which is all that's needed. A small scratch won't hurt.

Hi Gethin, I made the rockwork using polystyrene and flexible floor tile adhesive. There are build videos for another enclosure here on my channel.

@@sauriandomain.7092 Thanks man

@@sauriandomain.7092 just to say, youre a really good youtuber i thinkk youre a great help for lizard owners thank you :)