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@@Orlandinialessandro ho usato la ender 3 interamente originale, il gcode l'ho fatto su Fusion360 seguendo un tutorial su youtube, poi l'ho caricato sulla scheda SD della ender 3 come faccio per le stampe. Accesa la stampande ho selezionato il gcode e ho avviato. Il motore è controllato manualmente da un driver pwm esterno alla stampante. Ho risctitto il commento perche ti avevo risposto pensando ad un altra cnc che non è quella nel video

Fino a qua ho capito, ma non ho capito che scheda hai usato, quella originale o Arduino con shield cnc? Perché mi piacerebbe molto convertire la mia in cnc (in quanto ho anche un’altra stampante 3d)

@@Orlandinialessandro ender 3 originale, quindi scheda originale, nessun arduino. le stampanti 3d non sono esclusivamente delle stampanti, sono delle macchine che eseguono gcode, quindi possono fare di tutto!

@@haythamfpv ah okay, mi avevi parlato di Arduino e pensavo che su questa stampante. Il problema è come hai fatto da dirgli alla cnc se stampare prima la parte interna del pezzo e poi l’esterno per staccarlo dal piatto?

@@haythamfpvpotresti per favore fare un tutorial specifico? Ti giuro che vorrei tanto farlo ma non ci capisco molto. Fusion 360 ce l’ho ma non so come configurarlo. Mi piacerebbe molto incidere su un pezzo di compensato di 2mm per fare dei pezzi di una nave. Saresti disposto a farlo? Cioè a far vedere i passaggi di fusion e nella macchina come procedere?

@@youbewb5581 hahaha give it a go, it's a lot of fun! There are stls on thingiverse to attach a dremel to the original ender 3 hardware

Thank you so much :)

I used fusion360 to generate the gcode, make sure to make a profile that fits the ender3, the parameters in the cnc profile creator in fusion360 are pretty intuitive, unfortunately I do not remember what I did, it has been a few years

Thanks :)

I used fusion 360 for the gcode

Aliexpress, there are many vendors

Thank you!

Hi, I was using a generic 2mm endmill for composites, you can get them on aliexpress. The cheapest ones will get you a couple of 3" whoop frames

Hi, send me a message on Instagram

You have WA number,, I'm old school,, no instagram

yes that would have been handy, also carbon dust is conductive so it could have caused a short

@@haythamfpv it's also not healthy.... I've got a question tho... how many times have you milled carbon fiber and has it dulled your bit?

@@im_ricebowl yeah I was working outside for that reason. usually a 2mm bit dulls after 3/4 parts, I would say 3 hours tops at 300mm/min speed. that with the cheapest bits I found online

@@haythamfpv I see I see.... Im midway through a DIY mini cnc which is my second version and I kinda wanna do CF. Any idea what the Rpms on your spindle was?

@@im_ricebowl nope, but I made a proper one, I'm running 11k rpm at 300mm/min, sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the task. I'm using a 400w motor and usually 2mm bit

I suggest you to use the same filter tuning of your quad, maybe even a little more aggressive since the fc does nothing more than that and logging

Yeah, they are all in the description

I guess so

Hi CU, what do you mean?

@@haythamfpvI mean the part that connects the camera and the case🙂

All the files are in the description under “files for the build”

@@haythamfpv That link doesn't have an STL file for T-shaped parts that connect to the camera under the "bottom case"🤔

@@cufpv9979 check now :)

Thanks! I got it out of a cheap 18650 powerbank, you can find them pretty much everywhere

Sure, send me a message on Facebook 👍🏻

che coincidenza, grazie!

I'm quoting my facebook comment: hi, the video is enough. If you have multiple shots with the same log you just need to manually check on the bbl viewer each shot's offset and input it into gyroflow. You only need a rough estimate of each one. You then will need to process each shot one by one using the same CSV and setting the initial offset for each shot, gyroflow will then fine tune it and export the clip. As I said, you have to do the process for each shot. let me know if you need more info :)

set sdcard_mode = SPI set sdcard_dma = ON set blackbox_device = SDCARD set blackbox_mode = ALWAYS save

@@haythamfpv thanks!!

What do you mean?

@@haythamfpv motors and parts. Do you have a stl of your frame, looks interesting

@@qpmkro I used 1305s and a 3d printed polypropylene prop guard, like the Iflight protek (this was back in December). Now I have a v2 with 3mm carbon and the lightest guards I found on Banggood. It's the same weight but flies better and is more durable. I wouldn't suggest you to use this design

This is awesome. How hard is it to do and after can you 3d print or you just converted the 3d printer into a cnc machine?

The insta 360go and go2 have a good enough stabilization that they don’t need this gimbal

Happy to help 😄

Hi mate, what do you need?

@@haythamfpv 3d file for hold the gimbal n gopro..i mean everthing that you used for that gimbal work🤣

@@mantri27fpv74 if you watch the video I mention that the description is filled with stl links, just read the description and you’ll get everything you need.

@@haythamfpv okee broo🤣🤣 i'm go to the your link..thanks😁

Thanks a lot dude🔥🔥

@@haythamfpv no worries mate you deserve it, 🥰🙋🏽‍♂️

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4838187 here you go!

Thank you!

unfortunately I had to use this until a couple of weeks ago hahaha, but hey, there's no better training than a bad tip to get better at solering, once you master that, everything else is a joke hahahah

@@haythamfpv yea, I can imagine that tip that's rusted to shit only had one spot in which remotely gave heat ^^

thanks, yeah this island is crazy!

Thanks! you too

I was about to film gimbal with no Hypersmooth but I had a problem with some wet grass.. Hypersmooth does not defeat the purpose at all, it crops 10% at most and does not do horizon level. There's the hero 6 with no reelsteady and with Gimbal, it should get you covered😉