วีดีโอ

Proof we're living in a simulation.

@@victorshopov4913 thanks for stopping by Victor. Really glad you enjoyed it!

@@SpencerLupul thanks for the kind words! What are you having trouble with in terms of buying MF cameras? Maybe I can help.

@@kiczcock gotta say, she’s pretty amazing.

@@MrBaskins2010 can’t disagree with that

@@Carthodon thanks for the in depth comment! Let me try to cover everything. 1. I’ll come back to that later. 2. Yeah I was also very (negatively) surprised to learn that, and not see it mentioned anywhere. Glad I could help you out. 3. Really appreciate the kind words. Feel free to share it 😉 4. I didn’t pick one up yet, as I rarely shoot 110. But I’ll be in Japan in April and I might ask Lomo JP if I can borrow one for a few days (and make a review). Won’t be soon though. 1. Yeah it’s not ideal. My set up is extremely cramped. I’ve got the camera right up against the wall, light above it, and then there is a shelf just above that (and about a foot in front of my head). If I move at all then light hits the shelf and cuts off the top of my head. And if I sit back I’m also away from the table which is really uncomfortable. But it’s a good point, and something I’ll improve when I’m in a different space. Thanks for the comment 🙏🏼

Thank you for the summary!

Living up to your name! Now I'm curious too...

Thanks I try..

Looking forward to your update tomorrow!

@ I ordered a negative film strip holder. I debated tacking some negatives in place with push pins but I didn’t want to scratch them. Otherwise, the iPad + box idea awesome. Thank you for using more of your brain than the rest of us!

@@AirBudProMax Oh you're very welcome! Best of luck with the scans

Good tips all round. Surprised I didn't mention the last 2, because they are indeed crucial! For the paper, I remember having textures on my first DSLR scans many years ago and couldn't work out why... I was shooting a flash into the back of a sheet of paper with the negs on, and it was indeed the fibers of the paper.

Well I hope you enjoy it! (and it's worth the shipping)

@@TechnicIsFun I shot them at 100. Always a good idea to overexpose when using an automatic camera anyway, otherwise the sky messes up the exposures.

@@joshuagaude6084 absolutely agree. Just a little bit of yellow tape on the part of the frame you should be exposing for, is a great simple solution I’ll try.

@@Leandro_Montibeler hopefully I’ve saved future people from making the same mistake

@@James.5703 can confirm, am peanut

@@kirkthibault3204 I think I’ll leave that title to the Linhof 617

@@GraeSkyeStudio thanks. Definitely outdated already though.. might have to make an update

Thanks! I was also very surprised. With a better scanning set-up, it's even possible to scan much higher too.

@@MezeiEugen great advice. You’ll also have to remove the security mechanism which makes it impossible to take a photo with the darkslide in. Overall, depending on your diy skills, maybe worth pestering someone else to custom make one for you.

It was done with the Frontier preset, and the lab has told me that the NLP preset is far from what a Frontier actually produces.

@@HARMANPhoto thank YOU for taking the time to watch it! I appreciate very much the shares.

you're right, and I was misinformed at the time. I've added a pinned comment about it.

@@tim31415 for cameras without a darkslide, adapters are definitely a great option (as dedicated 35mm film backs are always extortionate), but I wouldn’t say less fiddly. You always have to unload in the dark, as there is no rewind mechanism on MF cameras. Some cameras use a window in the back to see which frame you’re on, so you would need to seal that (for light leaks) and workout how many turns advanced the right amount of frames. You also get less shots on your roll of 35mm. Meanwhile this is a super cheap add on, which becomes very intuitive after a few shots. Neither option is perfect, but it’s great to see this option exists for those who want to try it.

@@marcargentique nice to see you here man, thanks for coming!

@ any time! Its nice to see all the beautiful places you visit

@@photopryntz appreciate very much!

@@wheatthicks for a solid 60 panoramas on a roll. Not sure I’d be able to finish that… haha.

@ lol fair. I should’ve been more clear. I meant that because the 220 roll back expects to take twice as many frames, if it were modified to only advance half as far with a roll of 120, it would automatically advance through a full 120 roll of half shots for you. I’m sure there are other technical challenges that are over my head though.

@@StevePorter_au 🫱🏻‍🫲🏼 hopefully those inspired to try this, will be saved the trouble.

@@patrickrostker6693 thanks! I guess a wave, à la yin-yang, would work as turning it upside down would fill the negative space 🤔

I recently did it too! I knew I shouldn‘t be alone!

@@housemusic325 what a great accessory. I just looked it up, and not only are they going for reasonable prices, but it comes in a very cute little carry case! Thanks for the information.

@@camerafusion thanks !

On bronicas that feature is governed by a pin on the handle of the dark slide, if that pin isn't present the camera doesn't know there's a dark slide in.

@@TheIsaacshepherd indeed. And in fact I just realised a mistake I made. I had filmed me doing an explanation of that pin on normal dark slides, and how this half slide was made without one. But as the video was getting long I decided to remove that section as I didn’t expect anyone to care… Guess I was wrong 😞

@@TheIsaacshepherd Mystery solved. Thank you.

Thanks! Yeah I don't know why it degrades so fast, but definitely overexpose it like crazy if it's old and badly stored.

@@RoNin-ks8pu yeah super interesting find

Thanks @@Elimnio ! You could definitely use that workflow, and it could be nice for shared doubles exposures or diptychs with multiple locations. But: - as the line between them is solid, the “double exposure” effect is maybe not interesting enough to warrant that kind of project. - rerolling 120 is annoying. So I think it’s better used as a way of just extending your roll to more shots. But photography is all about experimenting, so just have fun and don’t listen to me!!

ありがと〜

@@adrianemikko then you should get exactly this! Thanks for watching!

Oh interesting. How are you doing it without a detachable back? Masks inside I guess, and just knowing exactly the right amount to turn the knob for each size? Thanks, glad you like them! 😊

@@NorbiWhitney Yes there are masks that i use, knowing the amount of turns is doable, because the seller of those masks made a sticker, you place next to the advancing wheel, that has indications for each format, for where to start and stop turning. For 6x4.5 i can just use the red window on the back.

@@wildechap sounds great!

That's a bummer about the first rolls 😢 Look a neat bit of kit. I shoot a fair bit of Half-frame on 35mm but on MF the diptychs look great.

@@べべべ lol thanks baby.. uhh.. bebe(be). There’s a whole playlist of Norway content to keep you happy!

Thanks! I mentioned Snapped, a 100% free photo editing app. From around 10:00 in this video, I explain the negative conversion process: th-cam.com/video/N4f7d0-psIc/w-d-xo.html

@@HugAporcupine you’re very welcome. Glad I could help.

@@mrsmscuriositycabinet6925 I appreciate that very much !

@@kyrffcz2085 I’m sorry to say I didn’t take notes 😔 but it was a large range. Some around 15 seconds and a couple closer to 10 minutes.

@@NorbiWhitney Thank You so much🙏 im new in film photography so i guess ill just try and see but this will be 100% useful. Thank You again❤️

@@kyrffcz2085 I strongly suggest you look up reciprocity failure. Ot just download the lightme app. The problem with long exposures is that the light meter will be wrong. If it says 30 seconds, you might need to actually expose for 2 minutes to get a correct exposure. Each film stock is different, but lightme has the correction built into the light meter.

@@ArisaMeguro キラキラ〜〜

😊

@@enricoweber7338 glad you liked it

@@oliariricardo thanks man!

@@normand123456 hi Normand. So all disposable cameras are meant to be used only once and then thrown away. There’s no easy way to reload them. Some companies like Ilford and Lomography are doing “reloadable disposables” which are basically just the absolute simplest plastic cameras but easy to reload. I’ve personally never unloaded the film myself, but it seems simple enough with a bit of force. Normally you’ll give the whole camera to the lab.

@@milessheppardson3008 thanks for the feedback 👍🏻