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Nothing but a quality Shenzhen Special from A Mans Toy Shop, via the PRC - your home country Kev.

@@johnathankeough3027 When referring to a traditionally labeled “man’s toy shop,” you can use a gender-neutral term to make it more inclusive. Here are some alternatives: Toy Store: Simply refer to it as a “toy store” without any gender-specific labels. Toy Shop: Drop the gendered adjective and call it a “toy shop.” Toy Emporium: Use the term “toy emporium,” which doesn’t imply any specific gender. Toy Boutique: Consider calling it a “toy boutique,” emphasizing its specialty without gender bias. Toy Haven: Describe it as a “toy haven,” welcoming all toy enthusiasts. Remember that using gender-neutral language fosters inclusivity and ensures that everyone feels recognized and respected. 🌟🧸🎮

You've got issues mate - but hilarious none the less.@@kevinpollard5406

All of it 😂 I need a/c in media room for crying out loud

lol fair enough:) just need a Caravan now! :)

Thanks for the feedback.

Hello, thanks for sharing. I am also rebuilding a engine from a cb 650. Can you explain why the notch is/must facing the exhaust site of the motor. ? Greetz Alexander

Sorry could you tell me what time in the video you mean? I don't understand the question but if you tell me the time in the video I will look at it.

​@@johnathankeough3027 Hoi, bedankt voor je antwoord. Ik doe het even in het Nederlands,. Kan het ook even niet zo snel terug vinden., Maar op een gegeven moment zeg je dat de drijfstang gemonteerd moet worden met de uitsparing van het lager naar de kant van de uitlaat. Dit is dan neem ik aan voor een optimale smering van het lager .,?

@@fingerscrossed2317 Because that’s the way the Honda manual shows how they face and as per the assembly drawings. I’m not sure if it’s to do with lubrication or to aide in the fact the piston arrow also faces exhaust. It might make this difficult to occur if it faces the intake manifold but mate it’s been so long ago I can’t honestly remember sorry.

Soda blasted the cases mate no paint used

Hi Alfredo I have read before this is possible to be done without dismantling the entire engine. Refer to this post as it explains this fiddly process and has pics forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=122084.0

G’day James, it’s a bit hard to say but my money would be on a knocking sound coming from the bottom of the engine. Generally speaking top engine noises are usually clicking, rattling, grinding etc. from things such as worn timing chains, bent valves, worn timing chain guides/adjusters or flogged out bearing surface e.g. cam bearings or white metal surfaces. Knocking is usually worn connecting rod big end or small end wear, wrist pin to piston flogged out, scuffed piston skirts, worn out roller bearings etc. Your engine uses roller bearings on the mains so I would drop the oil through a rag and into a clean oil pan see if you get any significant shiny metal out. Either way mate unfortunately a knock is never good news. Usually rocking the engine back and forward with head removed you can generally find play/slop in the piston up and down etc.

The slotted side of the pin on the upper pin of the cylinder faces starboard as is shown in all mercury schematics, the sensor does not fit into this pin in anyway.

No Scooter it only had 3 years warranty as we stopped taking it to our local Mercury agent for servicing etc...

Bonjour, Le problème est facilement identifiable grâce au photos transmissent Le problème vient de l’application d’antifouling sur le moteur Je me permet de vous joindre les recommandations constructeurs à ce sujet : « Mercury Marine recommande de ne pas utiliser de peinture de fond antifouling sur les moteurs et les transmissions Mercury. Certaines peintures marines antisalissures efficaces utilisent des métaux, tels que le cuivre, comme biocide prédominant mélangé aux peintures antisalissures pour empêcher le bio-salissure de la croissance marine. L'étiquette de la peinture peut ne pas révéler le contenu réel ou la présence d'un métal réactif utilisé dans la formule. Mercury Marine a constaté que les peintures antifouling contenant ces composés métalliques créent une corrosion galvanique avec l'aluminium sur les moteurs ou les transmissions Mercury. Mercury Marine n'approuve pas l'application d'une peinture antifouling sur la peinture appliquée en usine. Étant donné que l'étiquette peut ne pas déterminer avec précision si la peinture contient un métal réactif, n'appliquez pas de peinture antifouling sur la finition d'usine de Mercury. Si une peinture antifouling est appliquée sur la coque, elle doit être maintenue à une distance minimale de 4 cm des pièces du moteur et de sa transmission. Mercury Marine ne couvre pas les dommages dus à la corrosion sur les pièces du moteur ou de la transmission sur lesquelles a été appliquée une peinture antifouling marine, et qui coupe la continuité et l’efficacité de la protection anodique. » Cordialement, le Service Après-vente Mercury Marine France Infoconso Mercury Marine France Service Technique & Après-Vente Brunswick Marine in France Rue Jacques Monod, 17044 La Rochelle Cedex 1, France infoconso@mercmarine.com @@johnathankeough3027

Glad they helped mate there a fun bike to work on actually some very clever engineering for there time. I have a triumph t140d Bonneville an must admit the machining is pretty secondhand compared to the Honda , it also a lot more oil tight than my trumpy 😂

1978 motor I believe. I looked up the bearing part numbers and found a green colour set on eBay in Japan. Other sellers in the States had partial sets at the time as well mate.

John Keough what would the color mean in terms of difference? Would the 78 bearings match the 74?

@@bwtegu7135 the bearings need the be plastigauged to the crank e.g. no two crank journals are the same so Honda had 4 different bearing colour sets to match the crank green set being more standard and black being the tightest / smallest. There's also yellow and brown I believe. You need to micrometer the crank journals then use plastigauged to get correct clearance when crank tightened into bearings, plenty videos on you tube showing this procedure.

John Keough gotcha, where would you recommend i source the bearings that actually sit inside of the crank case, like the transmission bearings and what not aside from the crank and rod bearings?

@@bwtegu7135 I found most of the normal roller bearings at standard bearing shops e.g. SKF, Stateside Bearings, Consolidated Bearings etc here in Australia. The only ones that you might struggle with were any that had a retaining ring groove cut into them I just grabbed the Honda part no. and put it in eBay and found these.

Your welcome mate. I had a few rocker cover threads stripped had to helicoil them but came out good as new.

Soda blasting matey came out nice.