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Northern Maine Productions
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2010
Hello And Welcome to Northern Maine, My channel has a Variety of different Content , I have an Archive of Historic Bangor and Aroostook Videos on my Channel , I have some Railfan Videos that I have Taken over the Years , I also Have a Few DIY homestead Resurrection Videos , as well as a few other Random Videos
WT Grants 40 Light vintage C9 string and then a little price gouging Rant !
Lets take a look at a Vintage and very odd set of W.T. Grants Outdoor string of 40 c9 Lights , that string of lights is probably the poorest quality set of lights I have ever owned , and is indicative of the later types of C7 and C9 strings that became increasingly more prevalent in the 1970s-1990s these types of strings of lights are GARBAGE and are worthless Basically , I am sorry I kinda went into a little rant about the values of this stuff including the Imported C7-c9 Light Bulbs that sellers are really PRICE GOUGING people on when purchasing online , even the older red and green wire Gilbert and Noma strings as good as they tend to be are not worth much at all cause they are so common and someone is always willing to give them away! I tend to only collect the G.E. and Westinghouse Bulbs as they are usually very High Quality , The Imported Bulbs No matter how old or new are Just not worth Collecting to keep typically , they are Great for Consumable Bulbs to actually use and discard when burned out as there are just so many of them everywhere!
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Vintage C6 Christmas Lights , How to get working again Watch Dan get Frustrated with these !
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I was trying to do a demonstration of how one would normally fix a burned out string of c6 and the old strings and bulbs literally threw me for a loop for a few minutes , I did eventually resolve the issue
Testing old c7 bulbs
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I have an extensive collection of untested c7 bulbs , and i have decided to test them and get rid of the burned out bulbs
1950's Noma C7 Boxed Lights
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Lets take a Look at some Early 1950s Noma C7 Boxed sets of lights from my collection , I will also Give some collecting tips that might be helpful to some!
B.E. 4200PS Portable Generator Review after 4 years of use
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I bought this B.E. (Brayer Equipment) 4200 Watt Portable Generator Back in 2020 , when I purchased it I was Pretty Apprehensive about the whole thing (its Made in China and imported to Canada and Marketed By B.E. Equipment Abbotsford British Columbia ) I think these Machines are Pretty Scarce in the U.S. but being from Aroostook County Northern Maine we are very close to the border and I suppos...
GE C7 and C9 Christmas Bulbs Throughout the Generations
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In this Video I take an In depth dive into the different Generations of General Electric C7 and C9 Bulbs , This is Mainly Focused on the Most Commonly Avail C7 and C9 Bulbs Beginning in the 1920s ending with the dawn of the 1980s , I feature examples of these bulbs when I have them in my collection I hope you all find this Video Helpful in determining approx how old your GE C7 and C9 bulbs are:...
Ariens St 828 Long overdue for Repairs Lets Fix it!
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In This Video I replace the starter cord, Inspect the drive disk and adjust the wheel clutch , I also make an adjustment to the engine Governor and tune up the Carburetor idle circuit , I test the Electric Starter a few times and eventually do a test run at the end
Taco Tuesday! Lets do an autopsy on a Vintage Taco 111-8 Motor and repair it!
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So on Sunday We were at our local Church and turned the heat up and we had one zone that was apparently not working , I went in the boiler room and discovered that this old Vintage Taco 111-8 was just humming , I killed the power and reached and got ahold of the coupling spring and was surprised the unit was free and not locked up , I turned the power back on and gave the coupling a spin with m...
Ancient Taco 111- 8 -007
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A random Video on a Sunday Afternoon , This morning one of the old Taco 111-8 circulators at our church would not start and run , it would only hum , I believe it is original from the early 1970s , this unit featured here has a 1/8 hp Marathon 120 volt motor on in which i suspected and verified here this afternoon was actually still good , the pump had seized and sheared the Spring Coupler off ...
Time to get ready for winter ...
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Lets take a quick look at the old Ariens 924077 Sno Throw, and also a temporary ramp for the brand new workshop
Workshop Construction Update Final
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Well Folks the Construction Phase of the new workshop is basically Over , I have officially Moved all the stuff back inside and set up shop , Its still a little cluttered and needs some more organizing but that will come in good time
Workshop Update 9/14/2024
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Lots Happened Here today as I worked on boxing in the eves , and trimming out this brand new building , i also managed to get some painting done
Workshop Major Update 9/8/2024
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Finally an Update on the new Workshop , Many things have been accomplished since the last video , the building has a roof that is all sheathed in and currently tarped , the building has electricity and lights now , the windows are all in , the Man door is all installed and finished in ,and I have started moving stuff back inside , now to get a couple doors hung on the front entrance , and the m...
Workshop Update August 17 2024
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this is actually two videos put into one , I had a Very Productive Day on Saturday the 17th of August , I was successfully able to cut out 18 new rafters and install the Ridge Poles and Ridge Beam , and then the Rafters , as you can see the buildings walls are all sheathed now I still have one window to put in
Workshop Update August 6 2024
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The Rain and Heat finally let up , I finally got some new sheathing on the exterior walls , Its Starting to look like something now
Workshop Update: Will it ever cool off and stop raining
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Workshop Update: Will it ever cool off and stop raining
Workshop Construction Part 2, 3, and 4 and 5
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Workshop Construction Part 2, 3, and 4 and 5
Construction has started on my new workshop
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Construction has started on my new workshop
Temporary Outdoor Construction Lighting
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Temporary Outdoor Construction Lighting
Laying down the Concrete Pads for the new Workshop
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Laying down the Concrete Pads for the new Workshop
Mowing the front lawn with a Modified early 1970s SNAPPER 2650
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Mowing the front lawn with a Modified early 1970s SNAPPER 2650
The Old Garage is Gone, Whats The Plan now
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The Old Garage is Gone, Whats The Plan now
Garage Demo Part 4, 5 and 6 THE GRAND FINALLY
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Garage Demo Part 4, 5 and 6 THE GRAND FINALLY
Garage Demo Part 3 WILL I EVER GET THE ROOF OFF THIS THING?
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Garage Demo Part 3 WILL I EVER GET THE ROOF OFF THIS THING?
Mowing some field Grass with a 1971 Snapper ReR and a 2000 White/MTD Lt1300
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Mowing some field Grass with a 1971 Snapper ReR and a 2000 White/MTD Lt1300
Real Bad Humming Noise resolved 1960's Burdines Capri ( Frigid ) 12 Inch Cradle fan
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Real Bad Humming Noise resolved 1960's Burdines Capri ( Frigid ) 12 Inch Cradle fan
Garage Demo Part 2 Can I salvage the Electrical devices??
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Garage Demo Part 2 Can I salvage the Electrical devices??
Briggs 13 HP ohv /White Power products Lt1300 is tested and ready for action
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Briggs 13 HP ohv /White Power products Lt1300 is tested and ready for action
Time for a New Workshop , getting ready to demolish the old Garage here at the homestead
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Time for a New Workshop , getting ready to demolish the old Garage here at the homestead
Those are nice higher-end Noma sets you have with the wooden berry beads. Lower end sets did not have those and the sockets were spaced closer together. 12:45 The Japanese bulb is probably a little bit lower in amperage than the US C-6s in the string so it is burning brighter. I have come to really love these miniature screw (E10) socket sets. I have many sets in original 8-, 9-, 15-, and 20-socket configurations in green, white, red, and even blue wire. I have revised many of the 8-light strings to 10 lights so they burn a little cooler and the bulbs last longer. I really think the original design burned way too hot and bright. Those C-6 cone bulbs look so much better when burned in 10-15 lamp strings (8-12 volts rather than the full 15 volts). An Alternative is to use a tabletop dimmer (Lutron or Leviton) to dial down the voltage whenever using these vintage sets to make them burn cooler and last longer. I have many strings I have acquired just for parts so I can replace and add socket when needed. You can punch out the contact disc at the bottom of the socket to make soldering repairs and then tap them back in carefully. I've converted many strings to straight line by inserted a return wire to the plug and winding everything together before soldering to the plug. I've even done some straight line sets with add-on connectors at the end. Those are fun to do but the cost of the parts (20 gauge wire, plug, and matching end connector) can add up. I have four factory straight line 20-lamp sets with end connectors in my collection. These were sold to commercial end users like department stores for displays. Why these were never put into widespread retail production I will never know. They are the best and among my favorite Christmas lights of all. Series sets make so much more sense for indoor use than line voltage C7s. They burn much cooler and are electrically safer. Enjoy your collection. I look forward to other videos.
I have many different kinds of C6 strings in My collection I even have some Straight Line Noma C6 sets that were probably made in the 1930s as they have cloth covered wires , I featured one of them in my other videos a couple years ago , I dont know if you noticed I was indeed using a dimmer box with the lights in the video , I have also added sockets to some of my less collectible strings that were broken I put 12 sockets on a string and am quite happy with the brightness of them plugged directly into 120 v , I have indeed had to take the sockets apart on the old C6 strings before to re soldier broken wires back to the sockets , I have worked with and collected Vintage Lights for most of my life , the old c7s are pretty much my favorite especially the GE satin bright and Satin Glo Bulbs
I think that set was assembled by Beacon in the late '60s to early '70s. I have a few C7 and C9 sets like that but can't recall if I had the intermittent connection problem. I agree the intermittent connections to the sockets is infuriating. Many of the old Noma sets with bakelite sockets were intermittent on wire that is otherwise in very good condition. The GE sets made in Canada that were sold right after production of the original GE sets ended around 1977 also had this problem. I can't recall if it affected sets with the SPT1 or SPT2 wire or both. If you like the Grant's set, you can remove the defective original sockets and replace them with modern "vampire" sockets that are widely available from online Christmas lighting retailers. I have repaired many older sets using new black sockets (for a more vintage look). In some cases where I liked the twisted wire or the end connectors, I replaced all of the sockets with new ones. Some original sockets are easier to remove than others, and the placements of the puncture holes in the wire sometimes affected my decision of whether to replace the sockets or not. If I can't get the original puncture holes to hide under the new socket, I won't do it, for safety reasons. I don't want exposed puncture holes. The Japanese inside coated C9s are very good, with outstanding color (except for some of the greens) and durability. They must have been underdriven because most that I find are still working whereas with the overdriven GEs and Westinghouses, it's a crapshoot. They are very short-lived.
I agree I gave actually repaired a few of my older strings that had broken bake lite sockets , I can remember replacing a few sockets on a red and green wire Gilbert string a few years back , I had some early 80s GE c9 outdoor strings and I got frustrated with them and took the bulbs out and put the strings in the trash ! and you are correct about those older Japanese Inside colored c9 they are superior quality to anything that was ever made here in the states , It seems pretty rare now to find C7 or C9 made in Japan they all come from China , Thailand , Taiwan, and are pretty poor quality , I have found that even older Japan Made 16v C6 Bulbs lasted very well even though the coloring was pretty bad on them I have many of those that still light , With the old GE stuff for me its a Love/Hate relationship , I love the looks of Older GE bulbs , the flame bulbs and the first generation C7 were probably the best as far as lasting but all the ceramic bulbs and satin glo and satin bright bulbs had a pretty terrible lifespan as far as actually working long , I think the late 70s early 80s stuff lasted better despite the Inferior Coloring process
Good ol' aluminum grain scoop. Best snow shovel ever made!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a terrific old film. Thank you for uploading it!
My mother bought the satin bright bulbs like they were going out of style she liked them on the tree because when the tree was off during the daytime we had our tree in front of a window and the sun would Shine off of them and make them look like ornaments I think that's what the big Fascination was with them they had some pretty awesome colors every now and then you get a purple or you get an orange or a real deep blue they were pretty cool
In My Honest opinion the prettiest blue color was the original GE C7 Bulbs from the 1934-1949 time frame they had a Matte Finish to them when off but that are the most beautiful cobalt blue when Lit I have ever seen , the older c6 series blue bulbs were the same color and just as beautiful GE also made a Matte purple finish way back in the mid to late 1920s that was on early C6 and C9 bulbs too , I have never seen one in person but Mr Thomas Carlisle Has a few videos of his old lights on here that feature early purple c6 bulbs
Back in the day late 70s early 80s we used to make our own strand of c9's..... we had the wire we had to screw on base sockets when you laid the wire in the socket and screwed on the base and it would pierce it and it had it's on gasket that would seal it up
I live on a 30 acre farm in Manitoba - Canada. In the winter we range from +5 degree warm fronts to -50c cold fronts. Sometimes when the wind blows we can get drifts 2-5' high. Anyways I bought a used 1975 snow trac with a 9hp tecumseh engine. The machine kept breaking down and throwing belts so I rendered it for parts and picked up a 1986 John deer with a 10hp tecumseh and 30" auger. After using the John feet for 2 days at full throttle rpm's I blew a connecting rod out the starter side of the block after wheeling it behind the house after I had just finished clearing snow for 2 hours and the engine was finished. I then took the engine off of the snow trac and swapped it onto the John Deere. I lost 1hp overall switching blocks but I thought it would be worth a shot. I used the John deer like that for 6 hours and then the same thing. The machine ran out of fuel. I filled it. When I started it back up again it almost instantly lost a connecting rod out the same side of the block. Both engines finished. I was told I should never run a techmseh engine full throttle but the manuals say to always start them full throttle and run them full throttle while in use. I also stored both machines outside because I live off grid and don't even have a shed other than the small cabin I live in. They both had good oil and went through an oil change before they blew the blocks. Could it be these machines simply aren't designed to be going through 2' of snow? If I don't run them full throttle I'll never get through the snow that I have here in my acreage. For now I'll look for another used engine as the John deer chassis seems to be the superior model. Any advice would help. Thanks in advance
Sounds like some pretty extreme conditions for any equipment to run in , with My Ariens Machine I have noted when its really cold and the snow is light and fluffy the starter housing air inlet screen will tend to ice up which in turn will block air flow to engine and I suppose if run that way for hours on end would eventually plug solid and cause the engine to not get any cooing air and overheat , the other thing is when blowing hard like that for hours on end I would certainly stop every 20 -30 minutes and idle the machine down and just let it sit there Idling this allows the engine to cool down some and also will allow the belts to cool down some , the other thing with these is always set the throttle down to idle before you shut the engine off because at least once on me the throttle froze wide open and when I started the machine the carburetor Linkage was frozen wide open and the governor could not keep the engine within the 3600 rpm operating range , I was Lucky I was able to shut mine down before it blew up , Tecumseh engines are pretty robust BUT they do Not Like to Over Rev or they will explode and put the rod out the side of the block , I always run a Good quality 5w30 oil in mine so it starts good in Cold weather However I would not run mine for hours on end working real hard With 5w30 in it , the HM 80 would certainly require 30weight Oil if working hard especially if its warmer out , thats the real drawback they start really hard in cold temps with 30 weight oil in them , so Run either 5w30 or 10w30 oil just give it a 10-15 minute break every 1/2 hour or so , and keep your air inlet screen on the starter housing clean and free of Ice , and when you are done let the engine idle awhile so all the snow and ice Melts off the engine , Hope that helps
Filmed on location in the State of Maine (during their three weeks of non-winter).
I have a bunch of c6 lights don’t know much about them and haven’t used them. I usually use c7 or c9 on trees and garland. It’s hard to find cords for them.
2:43 Repairing cars in the dark...WCGW 😅
I think it was probably lit ok inside Derby Shops , I think there are a couple of potential issues with this film , one the exposure was not correct for the lighting in the shop , or 2 the old film has darkened with age resulting in a dark looking scene which is most likely because even the outside footage was dark looking at different times , I think these were transferred to VHS in the 1990s and about 13 years ago I transferred that old VHS to Digital for further preservation of these old films
The old light sets that were in an actual loop were a pita to put on anything and they didn't seem to go very far
that ole ariens runs a champ
its been a really great old Machine , I just recently did a little repair to it and its still running in 2024!
@@NorthernMaineProductions awesome man. I have a 824 with a dual auger belt set up....runs hard like yours.... I got a pro 28 too..... nice seeing old machines kicking A$$
Trutone has really done a good job in replicating some of these lights in LED so far. Hopefully they'll start with the flame bulbs soon, They have been talking about it!
I would love to see an LED version of the Satin Bright Bulbs too , Sadly I dont think that paint finish can be legally replicated as the original Satin Glo and Satin Bright Bulbs Paint finish contained Lead
@NorthernMaineProductions Yeah that's unfortunate. I have some of those and I try not to run them because I don't want to burn them out lol
Last year, I came across some GE D11 (w/ meatball logo) bulbs. These are transparent-colored C6 (only ones I've ever seen).
Nice I believe the Transparent C6 Bulbs were marketed in Canada only
The family had Pifco lights about 65 years old. some had a Crystal finish and over the years were retouched with nail varnish. Sadly they seem to have go Awol.
I noticed older sets had braided cords and newer sets had the flat wire cords. When did they change from a braided cord to a flat wire cord?
well I would guess that the Older Iron Fireman Set I featured In the Video was probably about the first around 1946-7 time frame the set was made with special sockets that could be placed anywhere on the rubber insulated ribbon cord , most others used the red and green twisted Pair of wires well into the 1960s , General Electric introduced its own sets that were all green and on vinyl Ribbon cord in 1963
Better than many newer high class snowblowers! ❤
It's doing pretty good if you take care of it aswell as you do your push mower 😂
HAHA that ol Push Mower was some old Wreck someone Dumped off in my yard ... it did run and I Eventually Gave it away, as for the old Blower I have had it for over 10 years now , it was in Pretty poor shape when I got it , I tuned it and did other various repairs and its been pretty good since thanks for watching 🙂
Does the cord length matter between the box and the wall?
No It Makes No Matter what does Matter is to Make sure to use a Polarized Cord ( the wide blade is the neutral/Common , the narrow Blade is the Hot) thanks for watching
Those are bulletproof snowblowers ! I'm building one with a 10hp for re-sale and have one for my personnal use and I love it ! Thanks for the share !
You really get a sense of how hard the snow is when you break out the shovel.
That was fucking awesome!!! Thank you.
I would change out both of those circs to 007 and save these folks some electricity and future service calls.
for sure ! Just trying to buy some more time on this old system , I swapped out the motor last night and its been working great all day, he whole boiler should be replaced at some point soon its been in the building since 1971 as near we can tell , I dont think these old Tacos have ever been replaced , they look pretty bad from all the dripping gate valves that drip in the summer when its shut down , but overall the motors are in very good mechanical shape , and the two that are left there run nice and smooth and quiet without leaking , ( I did give them both a good Oiling Last night after I swapped the motor out ) I should add there is a whole pile of the 007s up there that are dead too , there are 9 circulators on the system and 7 of them are 007s , these last two 111-8s are in a tough spot to get at and the old iron pipes are very rusty and I think it would be a big disaster to change them over , I think there is a good reason those old 111-8s are north of 1000 bucks new , they just last and last and last especially if maintained correctly , I also find them pretty easy to maintain I don't actually mind tinkering on things like these at all its a good learning experience Thanks for watching 🙂
Had my Ariens out this week getting it ready as well!
It certainly getting to be that time year
It's always fun having a little workshop set up for working with old videos and thanks for showing how the old Roxio product works. I was always a little curious about that program. I was wondering why you would bother dubbing from tape to tape when you could get a much better copy by just using the Roxio? A tape dub is a 2nd generation copy which won't be as good. Anyway, I'm going to check out your channel and thanks again.
Mad rightfully so. That is scummy penny pincher stuff right there... If it was in the picture then they're just straight up liars and scammers. That knew damn well what they were doing.
Spraying toxic herbacide all over the ROW with no respirators (or OSHA inspectors). Ah, the good old days!
Looking good, Dan! I like how you reused some of the old garage. It’s funny how I have nostalgia for the old garage just because of your stories and I remember my own past in my parent’s garage. You kept the old one standing proud for a long time but you do deserve a wood floor and better doors to work outside of your house, especially with your winters. I continue to be impressed with your handiwork.
thanks Billy! The old Garage as bad as it was will always hold a special place in My Heart I spent a lot of my childhood in the old place
Coming right along!
thanks yes Finally some good weather!
I love those.
Looking good! Get er done before the snow blows!
Thank You Joe its certainly been a long summer for sure!
I love the tink sound so much! It’s beautifully etched into my memory.
Looks good so far!
thank you , Its been a Learning experience for sure!
this machine would also record 8 tracks--and could play at 15 with the right combination of capstans and switches.
Do anyone know the last year snapper had bike handle bars ?
the only thing I remember about the handle bars is Early 1990s I think when the SR series Rear engine rider was first introduce
That kinda looks like the mower Tom Hanks used in Forrest Gump.
its the same basic machine
I’ll miss the old garage in your future videos and pictures but you got plenty of coverage up til now. I’m sure you’ll build something very useful that will last. Maybe some day, somebody will make a similar video when that building needs to be replaced.
For Many Years Prior to moving back home Basically all I had were Memories of working in the old Garage when My Brother and I were Kids well into High School , It was pretty surreal moving back here a decade ago and actually getting to set foot in the very first garage I ever worked in , However over time the nostalgia of the old Garage disappeared and Reality set in and a Couple years ago I finally made up my mind I needed to tear the old Place down and start over , Over the last decade I have Made lots of great memories here and brought quite a few things back to life in the old place , My Nephew Austin had the honor of working on the last project brought back to life in the old Garage
How much? 😂😂😂
The 54 still sounds just like the 42. Same normally aspirated EMD 567 engine block, bell and horn.
I knew of a teacher's aide that had one in this finish (with two others in polished brass). The glass shades are not original to this fan (the original glass was frosted and hexagonal in shape, with its own stencil). You definitely got a less common one, since antique brass was less common on these compared to their polished brass counterparts. As for the "Wal-Mart" fan, did you mean HomeTrends? That was their main house brand for ceiling fans and accessories in the 1990s.
I think as far as I can tell the Shades are probably original to The Union fan as I found another video of one like mine and it also has the exact shades as mine seen in this video th-cam.com/video/FuIbOlo6glI/w-d-xo.html I figured out I may have been mistaken about The Dining room Fan being from Wall Mart , its a Hampton Bay "Littleton " with the Black SMC motor It most likely came from Home depot as there is a Home Depot in this area it been so long ago I cant remember exactly where it was purchased sadly enough that fan is now retired the bearings finally gave out in the motor , wall Mart now sells a Mainstays fan that is Basically Identical to this old one
@@NorthernMaineProductionsThat I will agree with. They seemed like a common pairing with antique brass fans of the time. Also I get the feeling that the other fan looks too new to be a 1993 or so Littleton - the SMC ones of the time had the UB42 styled motor housing (which still had that design as late as 1997), and of course a Hampton Bay logo on the switch housing, unless that was a sticker that fell off. The Wal-Mart versions of this fan were replaced with the old Armitage style around 2009/10.
@@RickiAddict About the smc fan I know it was up in 1997 and had been for a few years , Back then my parents owned the house and 1997 was the year I moved out and when I was lugging a bed frame out it was running on high and I hit one of the blades with the bed frame iron and broke one completely off , it ran as a 2 paddle fan for years, Mom and Dad sold the house in 2002 and I was really amazed it was still here when I bought the house back into the family in 2014 , sadly I cannot for the life of me remember where mom Got this fan ?
@@NorthernMaineProductionsSMC's biggest retail customers were Home Depot and Kmart, though there were other retailers that sold their products under house brands as well as the SMC name. I did find a picture of a NIB SMC "42" Decorative" model online that looked like this one. Were the original blade brackets of the traditional SMC styling that you remember? Also kind of a shame that the more generic hugger was painted like that. I'm guessing somebody did not like the brass (judging by the original finish inside of the light fitter).
@@RickiAddict yes the White smc UB42 had the traditional U shaped white brackets with the bleached cherry blades originally , the more traditional U42 that was in the box was indeed white with brass accents , I believe it dates from about 1988 , the lady I got it from was just sick of the white fan and painted it black with a brush none the less! needless to say it does not look that good at all that one is still an Ok runner and will get installed in My New workshop as soon as I get it built
I really enjoy fixing up the old mowers and using them 😊😊😊
Yes I really enjoy Working on stuff like this too!
The F-3 looks fabulous despite the fact that the film is fading. I'm mostly disappointed that #42 is the only F-3 left on the B&A RR. Before I read the description for this video, I was hoping to see A-B-A units hauling an excursion train. I LOVE that horn! 😊
My original tires on my 1977 3081 are pretty aged looking too. More so then yours. But they stay pumped up perfect. Hope you don't have to ever change them, those are cool vintage tires.
Got time to see your video on your 1975 /3081 & your 1970 / 2650 that's been updated . wow you've got electric start on both. How nice is that! Sweet. I kept getting mixed up on what one was the 3081 & what one the older one . Then I remembered the skinny tires (on the old one) with the 4 lug bolts. Man those seats are nice looking & probably comfortable too! I'll down load what I got on my intro to my "new to me" 1977'. But all I've gotten done is figure out the year, learn how the friction drive works, & what the chain box does & how the differential has a hollow hex axle ect. Then I started my degreasing. Got the engine off. Now, I can, stand to look at it. But I only got it Sunday eve, now Thur. May 2nd..... There so diff. "friction drive" I wanted 1 to work on & see what there all about, and cut lawn with one, someday. The thing with your 2 snapper. You use them & work them . I have big yard, so I'm bound to use it too, but just, for fun here and there. As our only new lawn tractor we've ever purchased. Still works good. after 15 years. We paid $1000 for it at tractor Supply 42" MTD labeled Huskey .
when I originally got my 3081 I was going to just use it as a Back up to the really crappy craftsman I had back then .... Needless to say I no longer Own the Craftsman , it was a learning curve mowing with such a small a very simplistic Mower like the snapper but I soon realized what a tough ol bugger these things are , You Never have to worry about small branches or even small rocks getting wound up in the deck on these and breaking the Mandrels Like that happens with newer machines these old Snappers have a Very Robust Deck, Blade and Mandrel assembly and a very nice belt set up on the deck that renders them almost indestructible 🙂, Just keep the gear cases Lubed , the bushings in the rear axle greased and keep the motor serviced and going and they will give you years of service without much trouble
@@NorthernMaineProductions Another great snapper story. That is some of what I heard about them. I thinkin some put a great deal of time into the design. I still haven't tipped mine straight up yet to go thru the shape of my power train. But at least in my first week I watched a lot of Jim's fix it shop videos and Now I understand the power train design & you just clued me in on the deck design. I hear what your saying about the learning curve when I finally get it shop worthy & start cutting grass.
Glad to see somebody still working on them. They’re good. I was snapper dealer for 41 years. Worked on many many of those are good. I still got an 86 model. It runs like a new one. I hadn’t hardly replaced anything I gotta do is keep them greased up all changed new filters and you got it, keep up good work
They are a Great Little Machine , Obviously Both of mine have literally thousands of Hours on them and have substantial wear to almost all moving parts... but that said even worn out they just keep going without much issue , I recently Talked to The original owner of the old 3081 featured here and he told me this machine has outlasted 2 engines the original Tecumseh engine has been gone since the early 1980s and he put an old used 1970s briggs on it and it lasted a long time , the motor on it now has been on there since the 1990s and is just about worn out nowadays It burns a lot of oil but just keeps on running
Glad to hear there easy to work on. Nice machine. I just purchased a 3081. I thought mine was in ok shape, But yours was cleaner. and after you painted it, new looking. For some reason my 1977 machine has a red metal deck cover. I couldn't believe I have to pull the rewind crossing the gas tank, for starting. Wish it faced the rear. Mine still has the original turf king tires. There dated ( if I'm reading it correctly) the 004456 the last three mean 45 week of 1976 I think it's a 1977 because the frame s/n tag reads 7-11-10384 I wish I had a stencil to repaint the comet name on the steering post & the snapper name on the front sheet metal .
I Just brought home & ( after I got it unloaded) I found out the model.) It's a 3081W that someone got rid of the W= Tecumseh Now it's a 1991 Briggs & Stratton 191,002 8 hp instead of the Tecumseh 8hp . If it would of had a Briggs, from factory, I think it would of been called 190.002 8 hp. the tractor Data says the 3081 is maybe spans 1974 thru 1978 . I noticed, on my (1977) 3081. I have a metal "red", spindle pulley cover on top of the deck instead of white. I'm going to to see if I can see signs of a repaint job & that is what might be , where it was sprayed same red as rest of riding mower. But I read a comment you told someone, ( at least I think you mentioned) In 1977 (3081 snapper comets), might of painted some of them from the factory with red pulley guards, for some reason. Then I looked at yours . Yours is white. Not that it matters The only reason I think it's a July, 1977 build, is because the serial number prefix starts with 7-11 like the convince store. Thats cool that you have the original engine. Then you can confirm the year from that . I can't. Can you look on yours and see if the pr-fix tells the year? on the S/N.
Mine is not the original engine either mine is a 3081 WS indicating a Tecumseh 8 hp with electric start , the 8 hp briggs on my machine is an early 1980s engine ( there is a patch on the starter cover that covers the model numbers ) , years ago I found some information on the chassis serial number and I believe there is a letter designation for the model year I somehow determined mine was a 1975 model , I will have to see if i can figure out how I dated it again ? your chassis serial number should be on the leading edge of the frame under the seat near the battery box ( gold Colored Decal ) and from everything i was told when i worked at a snapper dealer in the early 1990s the red deck cover was indeed a one year thing 1977 in 1978 they switched to black plastic covers
@@NorthernMaineProductions Thks for the reply back, yes. So I believe I do have 1977 3081 that I dated the original tire #'s, if i did it right 45th week of 76 & the factory red deck cover & the serial number pre-fix 7-11. Been a lot easier with the factory engine, but it would of been a Tecumseh, they mite, "not have", a date on cover like Briggs did. anyway. I 'm lucky to have a 91' B & S, no points!
@@janbill79 yes I am lucky enough that both of my old Briggs engines have Magnetron ignition also , the other old Machine was originally a model 2650, 26 inch deck 5 hp motor , its been pretty heavily modified over the years it now has a 30 inch deck and a 1984 11 hp I/C Briggs , that I took off a badly rusted out Snapper Commercial Mower a couple years ago , there are some Videos of it on here also , at first I had a hard time determining the model and age then one day I discovered the Model/serial Decal was still there just painted over , that old machine will really mow the deep grass with that big old Briggs on it !
@@NorthernMaineProductions That's cool story . Finding the engine year, after thinkin they were gone. So the 2650 is a 1973? If so you got the hoop handle bars and 4 lug wheels. I was just learning from Jims repair videos about the drive train. I couldn't believe it wasn't a belt or driveshaft and gear but a hard rubber tire on a thing called a clutch presses up against the bottom of the engine pulley I couldn't hardly believe it! I still don't understand where the diff. speeds come from just because chain drive moves back and forth on the hex axle @ yoke when shifting.
@@janbill79 I think the old 2650 is 1970-72 as it has the old style Control handles with the white grips and also the deck height adjustment Lever is on the right side instead of the Left Like My 3081 there are no slider hoops on the deck of the older machine , the 3081 has them and they are a great feature as the newer deck of the 3081 is much less prone to plowing into the ground on uneven surfaces otherwise the decks are identical , the old 2650 does indeed have the old 4 lug wheels and very narrow pizza cutter diamond tread tires , it also has the red center caps on the wheels instead of the 1973 and newer black caps , also the handlebars were indeed updated to the 1973 and later bike style handles instead of the hoop style it also had the old flat style seat at one time too
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I’m trying to bring one back my dad had in Texas.
My Pleasure! , I wish you all the best , dont get discouraged with it stick with it, the drive systems can be a Pain in the rear on these machines if the Drive disc / Clutch is not properly set up , if you run into issues with it I strongly recommend watching Jim Jackson from Jims Repair shop He has some Awesome Videos on Old Snapper Rear engine Riders and some Valuable Information on setting up and adjusting and Maintaining the drive systems on these machines , the Mower decks are Practically trouble free and extremely tough on these units
The stencil design on the blades of the first fan are the more ornate stencil.
Hi what are you using to record on to the machine from off of TH-cam?
I simply used a Stereo Line Cord with a stereo 1/8 jack on one end and rca composite Plugs on the other end of the cord , I plugged the 1/8 jack into the headphones jack on my Desktop PC and the RCA composite Ends into the Line IN on the back of the Akai Machine to feed the audio output from my desktop directly into the Akai , I bought the audio cord at Wall Mart several years ago