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You can email me at k dot j dot abolins @ gmail dot com. I will try to answer your questions.

Thank you for the kind words. In preparing the CAD design, I contemplated the possibility of doing that. However the reality of 3D printing in terms of time and complexity made me decide not to do this. It would require expensive upgrades (or complete replacement) to my simple 3D printer and would still require a lot of time for each part. My current printer leaves each part in rough form requiring post-printing refinement which is a tedious process. I am not averse to sharing my CAD design for other people to attempt this project.

Perhaps you misheard my pronunciation of "saules rits". "saules riets" is indeed sunset.

Where can we buy the pattern? Id5 be happy to purchase a paper copy or download.

The reed is from Goudy Reeds in Rhode Island. The heddles came from the Woolery. The bearings came from Amazon. The miscellaneous hardware came from my local hardware store. I made the rest of the parts either with my mill and lathe or with my 3d printer. I am currently working on a drawloom attachment for existing looms. I have completed the design and am printing the plastic parts on my 3d printer. Assembly will be in the next month or so. I intend to install it on a 24 inch Montana table loom. I will modify the back beam and build a stand for it.

Baltic Psaltery thanks! I will have my brother 3D print som things.

I was able to pause 75 microseconds between each half of the cycle. Below 75 microseconds, the result was unpredictable. There were 485 steps from E to F# with each step taking X time plus the 150 microsecond delay. I don't have a way to quantify the amount of time (X) that the motor needs to actually do the move but the total time for the move is slightly more than 72,750 microseconds or 72.75 milliseconds. Another way to say it is slightly less than a 10th of a second.

Thank you for the compliment. I have contemplated building a small number but the cost in material and my time would make them prohibitively expensive. I am however planning to draft a set of plans for the few people out there with the skill and desire to make one for themselves. I would make it narrower so that it will go through doorways without partial disassembly. Making it foldable would be a plus for transportation and storage. I have several projects going concurrently so do not expect anything soon.

No, I did not. I designed it piece by piece iteratively until it was done. I modified the loom several times after the fact to correct and improve its function.

The core of my loom is a two harness counterbalance loom which I chose because of the balanced shed. The draw levers are attached to individual texsolv heddles via cords. The weights (lingos) at the bottom of the loom return the heddles to the down position when the levers are released. The draw heddles are kept in their correct position using two plates with 33 holes that spaced 11 holes per inch. The frame of the loom is maple for rigidity. The plates are made of aluminum. My original draw levers were made of aluminum but I replaced them with plastic levers made on 3D printer. I am experimenting with 3d printing the plates as well. A woodworker with basic experience could make the frame of the loom. My hope is to get the draw lever and guide plate designs perfected so that they could be 3D printed by a hobbyist or printing service. The weights are available online (vavstuga). The custom reed was made by Gowdey Reed.

@@balticpsaltery Thank you very much for the additional info! Lots of food for thought, there, in your very generous description. You have hit upon an interesting convergence between band-weaving and drawlooms, which has a lot of weavers very interested/excited. Some of us have considered weaving pickup-bands on big drawlooms (this is done in some parts of the world, where several bands are woven at the same time thusly), but this is a complicated and cumbersome way to deal with a challenge you have solved very neatly. As it is, several of us are thinking hard about how to adapt your system to our band and counterbalance looms. If you ever do release the plans for the loom, you will have a ready audience of eager adopters. Clearly your business is the production of your beautiful instruments - but do you have a website where further enquiries could be sent in the event you do decide to make your band loom plans available?

The idea of adding a drawloom to an existing loom is not new. I think I have seen add-ons (vavstuga). I chose to design a single purpose drawloom because I was able to start without any compromises. The factors that I consider important are: ergonomics - The loom has to fit the person and all of the controls need to be easily reachable functional design - separate warp beams for background and pattern; even tension (weight and spring design); big treadles for big feet (me) usability - warping adds a minor step of including drawloom heddles; the draw levers require very little effort to operate; a single one-step pattern thread reset with no need to remember up or down positions. So working within these guidelines may make a conversion of an existing loom more of a challenge than starting from scratch.

After arranging a couple of songs, I plan to add a "tools" video to help beginning players get up to speed quickly. This will explain the right and left hand in detail. Topics will include arpeggios, split beats, and timing.