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Hey Luke, the kit Frank is using is 6CB-W0078-00-00. If you need help finding the correct one for your engine, email us at Partsvu@partsvu.com! We would be happy to help.

@dalehutchins4939 Thank you for watching, Dale! We're glad to hear that your question was answered in the comments. If you ever have more questions or need any further help, feel free to reach out. Happy boating! 👍

Hi Chuck, Great question! While many modern spark plugs come pre-gapped from the manufacturer, it’s always a good idea to double-check the gap with a feeler gauge to ensure it's within the recommended range for your specific engine. That said, given our experience and how often we work with these products, we’re confident in how they come and how they fit, which is why we typically skip this step. Thanks for reaching out, and feel free to ask if you have more questions! PartsVu Support Team!

Thank you for your question! We don’t use Loctite on the water pump bolts or the bolts holding the lower unit on. Instead, we use marine grease, which provides an excellent seal and added protection against corrosion. This approach not only safeguards the bolts but also allows for easier removal during your next season’s maintenance. Additionally, we don’t use gasket maker between the lower and upper units, as the marine grease creates an effective seal in that area as well. Let us know if you have any more questions!

Cutri is using the following: partsvu.com/products/mercury-quicksilver-2-4-c-marine-grease-with-ptfe-8-oz-92-802859q1?variant=45626522403107&om=17219&adpos=&scid=scplp92-802859Q1&sc_intid=92-802859Q1&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAxKy5BhBbEiwAYiW--0F0xjJpBNCPbmGski9Ycc_kguHDbYh6zQOyfdUqZwjDmfp69uESrBoCVlYQAvD_BwE

Mine is a 25 inch ahd has the extra section in the middle. Use marine grease between that also. Thanks

If we are using marine grease on the bolts, what does that change your tourq value to. or just snug

​@@murphybrown32216 Grease reduces friction between the threads, which can result in a higher clamping force than when the bolts are torqued dry. To compensate for this, you typically want to reduce the torque value by about 10-20%. However, some manufacturers recommend using the specified dry torque value even when applying grease, or they may suggest simply tightening the bolts "snug" to avoid over-tightening. For the most accurate guidance, I recommend checking your engine's service manual or any specific instructions related to your lower unit bolts and the use of marine grease. Let me know if you'd like any further details!

Thank you for sharing your maintenance routine and tips! Your advice on the thrust washer installation and torque specifications for the prop nut is super helpful for other Mercury 115 owners. Great call on changing the lower unit oil and using new seals on the drain plugs each time-it’s a small step that can make a big difference in keeping things running smoothly. We appreciate you contributing to the conversation! If you have any other tips or recommendations, please keep them coming.

Thank you so much for the kind words! We’re thrilled to hear that you’ve had a great experience with PartsVu. We truly appreciate your support! 😊

Thank you for listening! We hope that we are able to keep getting useful content out there to all our boaters!

Thank you for your kind words, @Handynel1! We're glad you enjoyed the video. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out!

The Mercury 300R does indeed have a more advanced gearcase design, which minimizes the risk of oil spillage when removing the lower unit. However, regarding changing the oil in neutral, this is common across many outboards, including the 300R. When changing the gear oil: It's typically recommended to have the engine in neutral, so the propeller shaft isn't engaged, which helps keep the gears from moving while draining or refilling the oil. The sealed design of the 300R means that during normal gear oil changes, the risk of spillage is low if done properly, and the oil is contained within the gearcase until drained. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines on filling the gear oil from the bottom drain plug and checking for proper oil levels once the process is complete. Let me know if you need any further clarification! Happy Boating!

@talios1 Thank you for watching and for your feedback! Sometimes that woodruff key can really get stuck in there, so using a ratchet extension and hammer is a smart move to get it out safely. Glad you found the video helpful, and thanks for sharing your experience!

@brucethecurmudgeon8538 I totally understand-sometimes things don't come off as easily as expected, especially when they've been on there for a while. That metal cup and plastic ring can be tricky! I agree, having that part included in the impeller kit would be a big help. As for the impeller, yeah, it can definitely be a bit of a struggle to get it seated properly in the housing. Thanks for sharing your experience, and I hope the rest of the project went smoother for you!

@kenainmeshik Thanks for the great question! It really depends on how dirty the surfaces are. Sometimes just wiping them down with a shop towel is enough, but for tougher grime, I use a marine degreaser like CRC. You can also use a mild detergent like Dawn with some warm water. Just make sure to rinse everything thoroughly and dry the seals before putting on the new gaskets. Glad you found the video helpful!

partsvu.com/products/crc-marine-degreaser-non-chlorinated-14-oz-06020

@suryamithra5371 The cost of a GPS can vary depending on the model and features. If you know what you're looking for, we can help you find pricing. Just reach out to us at PartsVu@partsvu.com, and we’d be happy to assist!

@surf2dz Shaft length doesn’t change the process for replacing anodes, so the steps should be the same for your 30” shaft motor. This video should still be helpful for you! Let me know if you have any other questions.

@ryannguyen8001 Haha, swimming skills aren’t technically required, but they sure do come in handy! 😄 Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video!

Thank you for watching!

Here’s a detailed response for @jgringo5516: Hi @jgringo5516, Great question! Yes, it’s important to line up the plastic water tube from the impeller housing with the tube inside the lower cowling. Sometimes, that part can be tricky to see in the video, but it's definitely an essential step. As for your Optimax 175, you’re correct-the standard setup includes just the metal plate, a single gasket on top, and then the impeller housing. Typically, there's no gasket underneath the metal plate, but if your factory setup had one, it could be for added sealing in certain conditions. If the original gasket was torn, it might have been a previous modification or an extra seal that wasn’t part of the standard spec. If you’re still unsure, it might be worth checking with a Mercury service manual or reaching out for further confirmation. Hope this helps, and feel free to reach out if you need any more assistance! Best, The PartsVu Team

Hey there, we hear you! Fortunately, with Frank’s vast experience, he’s able to handle these projects with the utmost care. We truly appreciate you watching, and we hope to keep creating content you’ll enjoy. Happy boating, and feel free to reach out if you ever need anything! Best, The PartsVu Team

Hi @ebencurtis, Thanks for the question! There isn’t a gasket between the upper and lower casing on the Yamaha F300 4.2L. The casing seals by design, so no additional gasket is needed in that area. However, it’s imperative to ensure that all other seals, like the driveshaft seal, prop shaft seal, and water pump gaskets, are in good shape to prevent any water intrusion. If you need any parts or further guidance, feel free to reach out. We're happy to help! Best, The PartsVu Team

Thanks so much, Darren! We're glad you found the video helpful. If you have any other questions or need more information, feel free to reach out. Happy boating! Best, The PartsVu Team

Hi @michaelwilson486, For the 2022 Yamaha 115 SHO, you’ll need a 12mm wrench or socket to remove the bolts on the lower unit during service. If you’re tackling a different part of the engine and need specific bolt sizes, feel free to let us know, and we’d be happy to assist! Best, The PartsVu Team

Hi @michaelhartvikklette8465, Thanks for the kind words! We’re glad the guide helped you out before your first belt change on your Optimax. If you have any other questions or need advice for future maintenance, feel free to reach out. Happy boating! Best, The PartsVu Team

Thank you for your kind words and continued support. We always keep boaters like you in mind in everything we do. Your support means a lot to us!

Hey there, thank you for watching. The preferred grease that Frank uses it Mercury 2-4-C grease. Part number 92-802859A1. While you may be working on a Yamaha Outboard, Mercury oil is perfect for all engines. Feel free to comment with any other questions or concerns! partsvu.com/products/mercury-2-4-c-marine-grease-with-ptfe-8-oz-92-802859a1?variant=45626522075427&om=17219&adpos=&scid=scplp92-802859A1&sc_intid=92-802859A1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjww5u2BhDeARIsALBuLnMjum9wXs6zov1LBvm29JHEChOpKkdlmvCsvMnWJL2toj4dlAp6qv4aAufHEALw_wcB

Hey Buddy, Thank you for watching! Happy Boating!

Hey there, Thank you for watching and commenting! I would be happy to help, can you clarify what you mean by SBC? Look forward to your response!

Hello! Thank you for supporting our channel. Grant recently compared Yamaha and Mercury engines, and the recommended go-to grease is Mercury 2-4-C grease. It's a versatile marine grease that works well with any engine. The part number for reference is 92-802859A1.

partsvu.com/products/mercury-2-4-c-marine-grease-with-ptfe-8-oz-92-802859a1?variant=45626522075427&om=17219&adpos=&scid=scplp92-802859A1&sc_intid=92-802859A1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiuC2BhDSARIsALOVfBJCvCS-VKvas1F_qNBB_ILCmO72HfwXzoL1I0NtVZz1qaNk_jiRfVIaAqCuEALw_wcB

Hey there. In this video, Frank is using Mercury Marine grease with PTFE 92-802859Q1. www.partsvu.com/mercury-quicksilver-2-4-c-8oz-marine-grease-lubricant-with-ptfe-92-802859q1.html

Thank you! We are happy you liked our video!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the support! It's our Fave!

Thank you for watching. We are here to help boaters like you stay on the water!

It sounds like you've already done some good troubleshooting! Based on your description, the oil that leaked when you pulled the lower unit was most likely gear oil, and the fact that it leaked when the motor was trimmed up but stopped when trimmed down suggests that there might have been some trapped oil in the gearcase that wasn't fully drained. A few possible reasons for the oil leak: Gearcase Pressure: On some Mercury models, especially 4-strokes, if the gear oil isn't fully drained and the motor is trimmed up, pressure can build in the lower unit. This pressure can cause gear oil to escape from seals, especially around the driveshaft or shift shaft seal, when the lower unit is pulled off. Oil Seal Breach or Seepage: Sometimes when pulling the lower unit, oil can seep from the driveshaft or shift shaft areas if the seals have worn down. The moment you trim the engine down, gravity helps stop the oil from leaking out. Mercury’s Instructions: While Mercury may not specifically require draining the oil for your 115 4-stroke EFI, it’s still common for a small amount of oil to leak out during removal, especially if there’s leftover oil in the gearcase or if the engine was recently running. For future reference, you could try trimming the motor down before pulling the lower unit to minimize the risk of leaks. Why the gear oil didn’t come out when you opened the screws: It’s possible that after the leak occurred, much of the gear oil had already drained, so there was little left to come out when you opened the vent and fill screws. The lower unit may not have been level when you removed the screws, which can sometimes trap oil inside. Since you've reassembled the lower unit, refilled both the gear oil and motor oil, and there’s no further leakage when trimming up, everything seems to be in order now. It’s a good idea to periodically check for any leaks around the seals, just in case they were stressed during the process. If you run into any more issues, feel free to ask!

@richardgalasso-k4t I’m having the same issue. Did you get it to work? Do I have the wrong size prop or something?

Ok I figured it out. The spare prop is missing a sleeve that if the prop hits something that plastic sleeve can break and save your lower unit. Not sure if I can try to take out the one in the old prop or not

Hi there! I understand you're looking for the part number for the filter. To ensure we provide you with the correct information, we need the serial number of your engine. Please email us at parstvu@partsvu.com with your serial number, and we'll be happy to assist you!

Thank you for supporting us and our good friend Frank. We’re passionate about what we do and are committed to helping boaters like you get on the water and stay there!

Hey there, As a well-seasoned mechanic, Frank has several tricks he has learned along the way that are helpful to him. He does know the exact pressure he needs to hold to stabilize the gearcase without scratching it. That being said, it is not recommended if you are not familiar with the technique. If you do decide to use wooden sticks to help you with this project, wrap the contact point with a microfiber cloth! Happy Boating!