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If the gear oil won't come out of the oil level screw on your Yamaha outboard and it won't accept any more gear lube, it suggests there might be an issue with the ventilation, a blockage, or improper procedure. Here's a step-by-step approach to troubleshoot and resolve the issue: Check Ventilation: Ensure the upper vent screw is completely removed. If it’s partially blocked or not removed, it can create a vacuum, preventing oil from flowing properly. Inspect for Blockages: Inspect both the oil fill and oil level screws for any debris or blockage. Clean them if necessary. Use a small wire or similar tool to check for blockages in the oil passages. Proper Filling Procedure: Verify that you are following the correct procedure for filling gear oil. Typically, the oil should be pumped into the lower oil fill screw until it begins to flow out of the upper oil level screw. Use Proper Tools: Use a suitable gear oil pump to fill the lower unit. This ensures that the oil is being pumped in at the right pressure. Warm the Oil: Gear oil can be thick and viscous, especially in colder temperatures. Warming the oil slightly (not too hot, just warm) can make it flow more easily. Check for Oil Leaks: Inspect the seals and gaskets around the oil fill and level screws. Damaged seals can cause issues with pressure and oil flow. Seek Professional Help: If the issue persists, there may be an internal problem with the gear case. It might be necessary to consult a professional mechanic or take your outboard to a service center for a thorough inspection.

Hey Alberto, There are several reasons why a Yamaha motor might not turn a propeller, including but not limited to issues with the fuel system, battery, or carburetor: Fuel filter A clogged fuel filter can prevent enough fuel from passing through to turn the engine over. Fuel pump A failing fuel pump can cause vibrations in the engine, especially at higher speeds. Battery A low battery can cause the engine to crank slowly, while a dead battery can prevent it from turning over at all. Use a voltmeter to check the battery's voltage and charge it to around 12.6 volts. Carburetor Carburetor adjustments that are too lean, or that don't allow enough fuel to start the engine, can also be an issue. The carburetor may also need to be cleaned or replaced. If none of these work you should contact your marine mechanic for assistance.

Thank you for watching. Our goal is to help boaters like you be more informed and self-sufficient! See you on the water!

Hey there, Thanks for watching and thank you for commenting. The engine Frank is working on in this video like many F75, F90, F150, F175, and F200 engines does not have a thermostat housing gasket! In the event that your engine does, make sure that is changed when changing your thermostat. Let us know if we can help with anything else. Happy Boating!

Thanks for your question. Using the built-in levers (often called "tilt locks" or "tilt stops") on an outboard motor to stop movement is generally intended for short-term situations, such as when the boat is out of the water for maintenance or when the motor is being transported over a short distance. MY-WEDGE might be preferred over these built-in levers for longer-term use or during transportation to avoid strain. The MY-WEDGE transom saver helps distribute the weight of the motor and reduce the stress on the transom, especially when the boat is being trailered over long distances. This can prevent damage to both the transom and the motor's mounting bracket. The built-in levers may not provide enough stabilization to prevent the motor from bouncing or shifting during transportation. The MY-WEDGE transom saver offers a more secure way to keep the motor in place, reducing the risk of damage. The MY-WEDGE transom saver also allows for better control of the motor's angle, keeping it in an optimal position that minimizes strain on the hydraulic system and motor mounts. Hope this helps! Happy Boating!

We agree, Frank is pretty awesome!

Hey, Thanks for watching! Finding caramel-colored or milky gear lube in your lower unit usually indicates the presence of water, which can be concerning. However, given that your pressure test didn't show any loss in pressure, there are a few potential reasons and considerations to explore: 1. Residual Water Contamination Even after changing the gear lube, some residual water could have remained in the lower unit. If not thoroughly drained or if water was still present in pockets within the unit, it could mix with the new lube, causing it to appear milky again. 2. Small Leaks While an 8-pound pressure test overnight showed no drop in pressure, it's possible that small, intermittent leaks might not have been detected. Consider running a higher pressure test, closer to 15-20 psi, for a few hours and also performing a vacuum test to check for minor leaks. 3. Condensation In some cases, condensation can build up inside the lower unit, especially if the boat is used in cold water or if it undergoes frequent temperature changes. This can cause the gear lube to become milky over time. 4. Oil Seal Issues Even if your pressure test was successful, the oil seals around the propeller shaft or driveshaft could be marginally allowing water to enter when the unit is in use. Inspect these seals for wear or damage. 5. Vent Plug and Drain Plug Seals Check the condition of the O-rings or gaskets on your vent and drain plugs. If these seals are worn out or damaged, they can allow water to seep into the lower unit. If this is causing concern consider visiting a certified tech for more help! Good luck Buddy.

Hey there, thanks for watching. I would be stoked to help. The correct thermostat for a 2005 F250TXRD is 67F-12411-01-00. Let me know if we can help with anything else Bud! www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f75-f90-f150-f200-f225-f250-thermostat-60c-67f-12411-01-00.html

Thanks for watching! Typically, one MY-WEDGE transom saver is designed to provide adequate support for the outboard motor during transportation. It helps to stabilize the motor and reduce stress on the transom. If you have a particularly large or heavy outboard motor, using two transom savers might provide additional stability and support. However, this is not commonly needed.

Thank for watching! If your Yamaha trim tab anode on the starboard side is spinning but not coming out, it does sound like the bolt might be stripped. While turning the bolt, apply downward pressure on the anode with a flathead screwdriver or pry bar. This can sometimes help engage the threads enough to remove the bolt. You can try to Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the bolt and let it sit for a while. This can help loosen any corrosion or debris holding the bolt in place.If the above methods do not work, you may need to drill out the bolt. Start with a small drill bit and gradually increase the size until the bolt can be removed. Be careful not to damage the threads in the mounting hole. If you are having a rough go I would suggest contacting an experienced marine mechanic to avoid damaging the lower unit. When installing the new anode, consider using an anti-seize compound on the bolt threads to make future removal easier and prevent corrosion. Best of luck.

Changing the livewell and bilge pump in your 14 ft Sea Nymph Ray Gapen model boat involves a series of steps and considerations to ensure proper installation and functionality. Here’s a general guide to help you through the process: Tools and Materials Needed: New livewell and bilge pump (ensure they are compatible with your boat’s size and requirements) Hose clamps Marine-grade hoses Electrical connectors and wiring Screwdrivers Wrenches Pliers Sealant (marine-grade) Steps to Change Livewell and Bilge Pump: Prepare the Boat: Remove any gear or equipment stored around the livewell and bilge pump areas to allow easy access. Ensure the boat is on a stable surface and consider supporting it on jack stands if needed. Locate Existing Livewell and Bilge Pump: Identify the current location of the livewell and bilge pump in your boat. This may involve accessing compartments or openings in the boat’s hull. Disconnect Power: Turn off all power sources to the livewell and bilge pump. This typically involves disconnecting the battery or turning off the main power switch. Remove Old Components: Disconnect the hoses connected to the livewell and bilge pump. Unscrew or disconnect the mounting bolts or brackets holding the pumps in place. Carefully remove the old livewell and bilge pump units from their mounting locations. Prepare New Components: Install new hose clamps on the ends of the hoses. If necessary, modify hoses or fittings to ensure they fit properly with the new livewell and bilge pump units. Install New Livewell and Bilge Pump: Position the new livewell and bilge pump units in the designated locations. Securely fasten them using appropriate bolts, screws, or brackets. Connect the hoses to the new units, ensuring they are tightly secured with hose clamps. Connect Electrical Wiring: Follow the manufacturer's instructions to connect the electrical wiring for the new livewell and bilge pump units. Use marine-grade connectors and ensure all connections are secure and waterproof. Test the System: Once everything is installed, reconnect the battery or power source. Test the operation of the new livewell and bilge pump units to ensure they function correctly. Check for any leaks or issues with hose connections. Secure and Seal: Use marine-grade sealant to seal around any openings or fittings to prevent water ingress. Ensure all components are securely fastened and properly sealed. Cleanup and Final Inspection: Remove any tools or debris from the boat. Conduct a final inspection to verify that the livewell and bilge pump are installed correctly and are functioning as expected. Safety Considerations: Work in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety guidelines for handling electrical components and marine equipment. If you are unsure about any part of the installation process, consult a professional marine technician or boat mechanic for assistance. By following these steps, you should be able to successfully change the livewell and bilge pump in your Sea Nymph Ray Gapen model boat.

Yes sir. He is the owner and operator of Platinum Mobile Marine LLC. He is highly recommended with tremendous experience!

Hello, Thank you for watching our video. These Videos are not created by request of customers therefore they are not specific. I would be happy to help you find a thermostat for your engine. Please email PartsVu@partsvu.com with your serial number. Thank you!

Thanks for watching! Yes, a bad water pump on your Mercury outboard can indeed cause an alarm without triggering any specific error codes. Modern outboard motors are equipped with sensors and alarms that monitor critical functions such as engine temperature and water flow. The water pump in your outboard is responsible for circulating water through the engine to prevent overheating. If the water pump fails or is not pumping water adequately the alarm may not sound. Check for signs of water flow from the tell-tale or pee hole. If there’s no water flow or it’s irregular, the water pump may be failing. Have a qualified marine technician inspect the water pump and replace it if necessary. Good luck Buddy.

Thank you, we appreciate that. We are dedicated to helping boaters like you!

How did you make out?

Hey There, Thank you for watching our Podcast. We were Lucky to have Barry Denton on, but we are not affiliated. We would not have the information you need. To volunteer for the U.S. Coast Guard, you should contact the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, which is the uniformed volunteer component of the U.S. Coast Guard. Here's how you can get in touch with them: Visit the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary Website: You can find detailed information and locate a local flotilla (unit) through their official website: U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary. www.cgaux.org/ Contact a Local Flotilla: Use the "Flotilla Finder" tool on the Auxiliary's website to find and contact your nearest flotilla. Each flotilla can provide information on volunteer opportunities and the application process. Call or Email: You can also call the National Help Desk at 1-877-875-6296 or send an email to info@cgaux.org for general inquiries about volunteering. Visit a Flotilla Meeting: Attending a meeting of your local flotilla can give you a firsthand look at what volunteering entails and allow you to meet current members who can answer your questions.

Hey there Mike, Thanks for watching our video. Great question. Very similar. We recommend referring to your service manual. Happy boating!

Hello Patrick, Thank you for watching our Video. I am showing that a 15MSHR is a 1993. Prior to 2005 Yamaha had a letter assigned to a year. Please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns. We are always here to help!

@@partsvu thanks for replying back to me.

@@Patrickmetaldetecting You are welcome.

Hey There William, Thank you for watching! I know that not all engines require a bore sleeve. I am so sorry that wasn't included in this video. See below for details. Install the Bore Sleeve: Take the new bore sleeve and apply a thin layer of marine-grade grease to its exterior and the interior of the propeller hub. Insert the bore sleeve into the propeller hub. If the fit is tight, you can use a rubber mallet to gently tap it into place. Ensure it is seated evenly and flush within the hub. Finish installing the propeller!

Thats great!😎 See ya on the water!

Hello, and Thanks for watching! The size of the socket wrench required can vary depending on the model and horsepower of your Yamaha outboard. However, for most Yamaha outboard motors, the common socket sizes for the prop nut are: 17 mm for smaller outboards (usually up to 30 horsepower) 27 mm for mid-range outboards (usually between 40 to 70 horsepower) 1 1/16 inches (approx. 27 mm) for larger outboards (usually above 70 horsepower) Any marine grease will do we recommend Yamalube Marine Grease Lubricant. ACC-GREAS-10-CT. Please let us know if we can answer any other questions! Happy Boating!

www.partsvu.com/yamaha-yamalube-marine-grease-lubricant-10-oz-acc-greas-10-ct.html?adpos=&scid=scplpACC-GREAS-10-CT&sc_intid=ACC-GREAS-10-CT&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwgdayBhBQEiwAXhMxtsDwPItJxwb6ye10dUmXqGbInHUAsa6iOkXoiV8GGIr8yKjOQj0-PBoCZJUQAvD_BwE

@@partsvu thanks you answered all the Qs! We used a crescent wrench and I think on mine the castle nut is 17-18mm (it's 25 HP). Of course we messed up and didn't fully remove the washer the initial go around haha

thrust washer or spacer gave us issues (I was using an aftermarket part that I wanted to replace).

@@jk501111 Aftermarket part or not we are happy to hear even with some issues you got the Job done!

Hey There, Thanks for watching. The anodes with a hole should be facing forward to the bow of the boat. If you have a question regarding a specific anode of your engine give us a call at 1-888-625-5460. Happy Boating!

Hey there. In this video, Frank is using Mercury Marine grease with PTFE 92-802859Q1. www.partsvu.com/mercury-quicksilver-2-4-c-8oz-marine-grease-lubricant-with-ptfe-92-802859q1.html

Hey there, Most of the processes are the same, with different parts of course. We recommend checking with your owner's manual for your 2-stroke engine!

Hi Jamie, I am sorry to hear you are having trouble. Cutri is a very seasoned mechanic and makes everything look easy. That being said, it is very easy to bend the thrust washer. Apply grease generously and if it does not go on smooth, toss and replace it. You do not want to reapply a damaged or bent part and potentially damage a very expensive part or lose your propeller as a result. Best of luck to you! Kind regards!

Hey Brady, email us your serial number at Partsvu@partsvu.com and we will get the correct belt for your engine!