Thanks for this video. In my case, the " trunk can't lock" problem happened just after I went to pick my car from a body shop (they're fixed every little things, and repainted the whole car). I first thought the problem was due to the mechanism inside the latch, but it wasn't. It was the rubber molds located under the trunk door that were not placed correctly.
Tried this trick and drilled a whole and put in a screw now my trunk is not opening anymore. Any suggestions of how to open the trunk again. I have reset the ECU,tried to open manually nothing works.I have the 2008 Lexus IS250
I was trying to remove the protective cover in the trunk on my ES350 in order to try to install an aftermarket back up camera, and accidentally dislodged the yellow-handled pulley (to get out of the trunk if locked inside). Ever since I reinstalled that, the trunk won't stay shut. Did I break this thing, or did I just not put the yellow handled thingy together correctly? It seems to be assembled correctly...
@@adrianoquadros I just deactivated the trunk interior release (when I reconnected it, it was providing too much tension and not letting the truck locking mechanism complete).. I don't plan on putting anyone in my trunk, if I'm put in there (!) I know how to override. Question, I installed the back up camera (was WAY out of my comfort zone this time, never used a soldering iron, hate electrical stuff but you instruction was key) and it works PERFECTLY, but my wife said the back up light doesn't work now on the affected side. Any ideas what went wrong?
Yet another fix, thank you....it was just as described and I did it myself on a 2011 lexus is350 awd...it must have taken me 20min if that....thanks agein
Thanks for posting this. For 10 minutes of my time and a screw I had laying around I was able to fix the problem. The dealer was going to charge almost $800.
I found out the reason why the motor gear goes to far past the arm and gets trapped behind the metal arm. I think its kinda strange that the arm fits perfectly behind the gear ramp trapping it and locking it out from coming back to its zero position when the gear fails rendering the whole system remotely and manually useless (unless you modify) making people purchase parts and labor after a few years of use. Everyone having the same exact issue with the gear locking behind the arm past its threshold is a bit interesting even an armature engineer can see this layout as a failure waiting to happen but they are supposed to be professionals so Im thinking self-defeating for profit.sorry for the rant. here is the video I made showing the inside. (my first video, go easy lol) th-cam.com/video/o7tpcq_MgF4/w-d-xo.html
Just followed your “work around” easy to follow job done working spot on, bit of loctite on screw and all trim back in place Cheers the power of you tube is at work again
I just fixed mine today. I think the reason for the malfunction is that the metal peace that is being hit by the rotating mechanism gets bent back and into a position where the black rotating mechanism gets wedged in and can't return into position. My fix was simply grabbing the little metal peace with good strong pliers and bending back towards the rotating mechanism. Worked as a charm. No drilling no shaving. Hope this helps someone else.
You know if someone could just take a pic of a new one with no wear it might steer people in a quick remedy. We'd all know if that little bugger is supposed to be bent from the factory or not. Thanks for the knowledge.
The actual problem is in the black box under that cover (You need to remove the whole assembly to get at the screws.) and there is a plastic nub that stops the rotating disc from turning to far. That wears out eventualy and it goes past the lever. Great video, very helpful. It worked well on our is250 2009. You can get online for around $20 at www.ebay.com/itm/223184828527 or www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQ2CH3Z?tag=picclick0f-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 for Camry
I just fixed a friends Toyota Corolla 2007 doing this trick! Dealership told him 300 euros for a new mechanism plus labor, fixed it in about an hour! Thanks a lot!
We just wanted to say Thank you! I found this video and my husband was able to repair our trunk exactly as you described in this video. Saved us the expensive repair cost. 👍🏼😊
Hey do you know how he fixed it? I accidentally broke off a piece of that machinery that helps lock the trunk when you push the button. So I think I just need a new one.
I found the reason the black rotating mechanism has started to over-extend is due to a small stop notch having broken off on the inside of the mechanism. You'll need to take the entire assembly apart and check the underside of the black rotating cog. I used a small PC motherboard screw inserted via drill hole from the outside of the black plastic housing in line with where the stop notch would have been, and I also glued a thick washer that didn't have too much wiggle room around the screw to ensure a wider distribution of force on the black cover.
Ended up doing the same thing before I saw your post I used a small machine screw that fit perfectly in the channel and had to double wind the spring to give it enough strength to return back to its start point. I dont know about you but the way this is designed (an engineers point of view) really seems like it was meant to fail after a period of time to get people to pay for parts and labor.
Thanks for sharing. Before I looked your video, I could not work out whats wrong. Once watched and it was the same problem. But I the real problem was the actual outside spring linking the lock together wasn't as tight as before, therefore when the rotatory triggered, it allowed to push through. So I tried 2 fixes today. 1. I used a 0.5mm thick aluminum sheet and cut to the size that fit between the rotatory and the metal bit and tight it at the back. 2. tightened the spring by shortening it. Both works. Buying a new spring probably last longer.
Thanks for the video man, almost a year old video, however the technique still works great! Ran into the same problem on my 2011 Toyota Camry, found that overshoot on the arm you were talking about and fixed the problem right up. Thanks again.
Huge thanks! I bought you a beer, but you weren’t around so I drank it for ya. My wife’s 2010 Corolla (they’re all the same mechanisms) had this issue and it was cleared up in minutes. Took it out, punched my starter hole, drilled it, tapped it and set the screw. Works like a charm. Might I request you edit your fields and add all of the sedans from 2008 to 2013 made by Toyota and Lexus; Scion too perhaps. Seriously... Well played bro.
jay3580 I will and thanks for the beer! Lol.. must’ve been feeling the vibes just drank one after a successfulrepair on my daughters BMW power steering pump replacement.
Used this fix yesterday to fix the problem on my 2009 ES350 and it works a treat. Great video and well explained. You do have to be careful where you place the screw as you could prevent the trunk from opening but other than that an easy fix.
This solution worked perfectly and is relatively easy to implement if you have the tools. The key is positioning the screw where the lever operating the locking mechanism just opens and closes the latch. Too far over one way or the other can prevent the latch from opening or closing. Like the saying goes, "measure twice, cut once". One thing the video did not mention was that the latch mechanism should be removed before working on it. It is much easier to work on when you are looking down on it rather than looking up at it. There are You Tube videos that show how to remove the latch mechanism. It takes less than three minutes and is pretty straight forward.
I took your advice , but while determining where to drill a hole I figured out that I could just shim the lever against the structure using 4 layers of aluminum tape to accomplish the same stop point! it worked beautifully. Thanks for the help. It's bullshit to pay 290$ for a new latch!
Hi, Thanks for the video, it was a great help, I had the same issue, but took a much more simpler approach. I used some strong white tack on the inside of the metal casing further up the arm mechanism to the stop the motor plastic cog from overshooting. Seems to have done the job.
Screw it just bought the part install in 5 min
Totally worked on my '07 ES350, thank you for posting this!!!
Thanks for this video. In my case, the " trunk can't lock" problem happened just after I went to pick my car from a body shop (they're fixed every little things, and repainted the whole car). I first thought the problem was due to the mechanism inside the latch, but it wasn't. It was the rubber molds located under the trunk door that were not placed correctly.
Just sprayed it down with wd-40 and let it linger then wiped off now my is350 working great
❤❤❤❤ you are super hero!!! Can’t say enough how much I wanna say thank you
thanks for making the video!!
Tried this trick and drilled a whole and put in a screw now my trunk is not opening anymore. Any suggestions of how to open the trunk again. I have reset the ECU,tried to open manually nothing works.I have the 2008 Lexus IS250
What is the exact name of this piece anyone know? I need another one because I broke a piece off of it and the trunk won’t close at all.
Thank you. Easy fix
The culprit of this issue is the horizontal return spring , You can see it at 1:51 . My 2 cents
Thank you so much! This work perfectly. Works on lexus IS series same time period model.
1:20
This worked for me. Thanks
I was trying to remove the protective cover in the trunk on my ES350 in order to try to install an aftermarket back up camera, and accidentally dislodged the yellow-handled pulley (to get out of the trunk if locked inside). Ever since I reinstalled that, the trunk won't stay shut. Did I break this thing, or did I just not put the yellow handled thingy together correctly? It seems to be assembled correctly...
If you press the button near the steering wheel it'll reset the mechanism somehow...
@@adrianoquadros I just deactivated the trunk interior release (when I reconnected it, it was providing too much tension and not letting the truck locking mechanism complete).. I don't plan on putting anyone in my trunk, if I'm put in there (!) I know how to override. Question, I installed the back up camera (was WAY out of my comfort zone this time, never used a soldering iron, hate electrical stuff but you instruction was key) and it works PERFECTLY, but my wife said the back up light doesn't work now on the affected side. Any ideas what went wrong?
Awsome...Great video..
I was curious if the cable below is not in the slot causing the issue. Great video btw.
Yet another fix, thank you....it was just as described and I did it myself on a 2011 lexus is350 awd...it must have taken me 20min if that....thanks agein
My boy. Thank you family!
Work. Great. I love poke a hole. The best part of this. Thank a bunch. My neck hurt like hell. But worth it.
I stripped mine apart just to get to the root cause. It's a broken plastic channel of the actuator. Unfortunately even super glue can't hold it.
This solution worked perfectly.Thanks for sharing
I just fixed my 2007 Lexus ES350 trunk latch following this video. You are my hero!
Thanks for posting this. For 10 minutes of my time and a screw I had laying around I was able to fix the problem. The dealer was going to charge almost $800.
Nice video. After punching the small pilot hole, did you tap it as well to get threads?
I found out the reason why the motor gear goes to far past the arm and gets trapped behind the metal arm. I think its kinda strange that the arm fits perfectly behind the gear ramp trapping it and locking it out from coming back to its zero position when the gear fails rendering the whole system remotely and manually useless (unless you modify) making people purchase parts and labor after a few years of use. Everyone having the same exact issue with the gear locking behind the arm past its threshold is a bit interesting even an armature engineer can see this layout as a failure waiting to happen but they are supposed to be professionals so Im thinking self-defeating for profit.sorry for the rant. here is the video I made showing the inside. (my first video, go easy lol) th-cam.com/video/o7tpcq_MgF4/w-d-xo.html
Just followed your “work around” easy to follow job done working spot on, bit of loctite on screw and all trim back in place Cheers the power of you tube is at work again
Dammm it did work thanks brother for this video and for saving me some money
I just fixed mine today. I think the reason for the malfunction is that the metal peace that is being hit by the rotating mechanism gets bent back and into a position where the black rotating mechanism gets wedged in and can't return into position. My fix was simply grabbing the little metal peace with good strong pliers and bending back towards the rotating mechanism. Worked as a charm. No drilling no shaving. Hope this helps someone else.
Cool! More than one way to skin a cat 👍
You know if someone could just take a pic of a new one with no wear it might steer people in a quick remedy. We'd all know if that little bugger is supposed to be bent from the factory or not. Thanks for the knowledge.
The actual problem is in the black box under that cover (You need to remove the whole assembly to get at the screws.) and there is a plastic nub that stops the rotating disc from turning to far. That wears out eventualy and it goes past the lever. Great video, very helpful. It worked well on our is250 2009. You can get online for around $20 at www.ebay.com/itm/223184828527 or www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQ2CH3Z?tag=picclick0f-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 for Camry
Thanks you so much sir
I just fixed a friends Toyota Corolla 2007 doing this trick! Dealership told him 300 euros for a new mechanism plus labor, fixed it in about an hour! Thanks a lot!
Worked on 09 IS350 like a charm. Although I found the part online for only $20, I still fixed it myself. Thanks.
Instead of putting a screw in it. Bend the metal part which the plastic part pushes against a few mm towards the plastic piece and it work's too 👍
Freak'n genius... 🤔You just saved cumulative hours globally my friend.
We just wanted to say Thank you! I found this video and my husband was able to repair our trunk exactly as you described in this video. Saved us the expensive repair cost. 👍🏼😊
Hey do you know how he fixed it? I accidentally broke off a piece of that machinery that helps lock the trunk when you push the button. So I think I just need a new one.
Got the same problem with my 08 Lexus is 250 hope this works I will be doing the same later today
what did you use to drill the hole?
twotime88 try a hammer. 😂. Jk think a drill would work
My man, you are a genius. Thank you!
I found the reason the black rotating mechanism has started to over-extend is due to a small stop notch having broken off on the inside of the mechanism. You'll need to take the entire assembly apart and check the underside of the black rotating cog. I used a small PC motherboard screw inserted via drill hole from the outside of the black plastic housing in line with where the stop notch would have been, and I also glued a thick washer that didn't have too much wiggle room around the screw to ensure a wider distribution of force on the black cover.
Worked great. Metal screw fits just right to do the trick! Thanks! It does look like eBay has the whole assembly for $20-25. FYI.
Ended up doing the same thing before I saw your post I used a small machine screw that fit perfectly in the channel and had to double wind the spring to give it enough strength to return back to its start point. I dont know about you but the way this is designed (an engineers point of view) really seems like it was meant to fail after a period of time to get people to pay for parts and labor.
Thanks for sharing. Before I looked your video, I could not work out whats wrong. Once watched and it was the same problem. But I the real problem was the actual outside spring linking the lock together wasn't as tight as before, therefore when the rotatory triggered, it allowed to push through. So I tried 2 fixes today. 1. I used a 0.5mm thick aluminum sheet and cut to the size that fit between the rotatory and the metal bit and tight it at the back. 2. tightened the spring by shortening it. Both works. Buying a new spring probably last longer.
Genius
Thanks for the video man, almost a year old video, however the technique still works great! Ran into the same problem on my 2011 Toyota Camry, found that overshoot on the arm you were talking about and fixed the problem right up. Thanks again.
Thank you so much! This worked perfectly for my 2008 Lexus IS 250.
My fix with a link to yours. th-cam.com/video/bRS0Fgdm6nw/w-d-xo.html
Huge thanks! I bought you a beer, but you weren’t around so I drank it for ya. My wife’s 2010 Corolla (they’re all the same mechanisms) had this issue and it was cleared up in minutes. Took it out, punched my starter hole, drilled it, tapped it and set the screw. Works like a charm. Might I request you edit your fields and add all of the sedans from 2008 to 2013 made by Toyota and Lexus; Scion too perhaps. Seriously... Well played bro.
jay3580 I will and thanks for the beer! Lol.. must’ve been feeling the vibes just drank one after a successfulrepair on my daughters BMW power steering pump replacement.
Used this fix yesterday to fix the problem on my 2009 ES350 and it works a treat. Great video and well explained. You do have to be careful where you place the screw as you could prevent the trunk from opening but other than that an easy fix.
I have Lexus 2006 is 350 my car trunk is closed but on dash it says trunk open, I am confused about it
This solution worked perfectly and is relatively easy to implement if you have the tools. The key is positioning the screw where the lever operating the locking mechanism just opens and closes the latch. Too far over one way or the other can prevent the latch from opening or closing. Like the saying goes, "measure twice, cut once". One thing the video did not mention was that the latch mechanism should be removed before working on it. It is much easier to work on when you are looking down on it rather than looking up at it. There are You Tube videos that show how to remove the latch mechanism. It takes less than three minutes and is pretty straight forward.
I took your advice , but while determining where to drill a hole I figured out that I could just shim the lever against the structure using 4 layers of aluminum tape to accomplish the same stop point! it worked beautifully. Thanks for the help. It's bullshit to pay 290$ for a new latch!
Hi, Thanks for the video, it was a great help, I had the same issue, but took a much more simpler approach. I used some strong white tack on the inside of the metal casing further up the arm mechanism to the stop the motor plastic cog from overshooting. Seems to have done the job.
before this did your trunk close at all after a few tries or didnt close st all
It did intermittently till it just did not latch anymore.