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Hmmm. If at one time you eliminated the EGR and it didn’t stop the bucking, making a restrictor plate probably won’t fix it either. Sounds like you may have a different issue. If you read through the comments, one guy (lupegalvan9993) had to replace the ECU to resolve his problem. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out. 🤞🏻

@HotRodsHowTos appreciate the advice!

@@HotRodsHowTos My fear is something deeper like a valve issue or something head related.

I think if it was a deep mechanical issue, you’d notice it at idle and when you rev it. You could always do a compression test. If it’s something major, you might as well find out now.

@HotRodsHowTos that is actually the next thing on my list, a compression test. I agree with you,but I'm running out of ideas.

-‘94-‘04 GT/v6 brake rotors, calipers, brake hoses. -‘94-‘98 GT/v6 Caliper brackets & axles. That will give you an overall width of 60.25”. If you need it to be narrower, you can use foxbody 5 lug axles with offset caliper brackets for an overall width of 58.75”. Hope that helps

@HotRodsHowTos so the lincoln axles don't work at all?

My lincoln axles measure out to be 30 3/8

No. Not if you’re wanting to use SN95 brakes. The ‘94-‘98 axle is 29 31/32”.

What year Ranger do you have?

Any hardware store. (They’re only $4 at Harbor Freight). Google “brass garden hose nozzle” and it should come up.

@ found it, thanks

No. Northeast Alabama

Yeah you’d think so, but wheelie bars aren’t allowed in the “outlaw” radial series… Crazy ain’t it!

I would start with a pry bar & profanity 😂. I don’t know. Maybe if you can’t get an angle drill in there and run a self tapping screw close to the outer edge (not in the middle), and leave it sticking up enough to hook it with a pry bar… Or put a socket at the edge of the plug and push against it with a pry bar… I don’t know. Just pulling ideas out of my a$$. 😂 Good luck though. Sounds like a sucky situation.

Glad I could help!

It’s not too bad. If you got a little roll around stool, you can probably sit on it and still reach everything.

Awesome! I’m glad that resolved your issue.

Yes. Parts stores, automotive paint supply stores, Summit Racing, & Amazon. (3M Strip Caulk #08578). Eastwood also sells their own brand that’s a little cheaper than 3M, but I’ve never used it.

Thanks for the info much appreciated.

I left it in there. But, if you have access to an air compressor, you could use an air blower and blow the tap water out of it. Just use low air pressure.

CLR stands for Calcium, Lime, & Rust. It’s a multi use cleaner. (According the bottle, it can clean bathtubs, concrete, coffee pots, & washing machines). The calcium & lime remover that you have should work. You may want to vary the time that it sits in the heater core before you flush it out. The CLR I used is meant to be diluted, so it’s fairly strong in its concentrated form. Hence the short soak time. Good luck!

@@HotRodsHowTos thanks alot my good man! By the way, you may want to edit the title and include the Wrangler JK on this issue and fix list, as the JK has the exact same issue. Liberty and Nitro are like 80% shared with the JK.

I didn’t know that. Thank you!

Good luck. I hope you get it straightened out.

@@HotRodsHowTos low fuel pressure was my problem, good pump but loose in the outlet fitting inside the pump plastic where the pump mounts to it.

@@HotRodsHowTos Welp turned out mine was the same issue as before. The new after market ICM was bad but since it never died I didn't put 2 & 2 together. Instead it would die intermittently off and on causing the jerking. Took the after market out and went and got an OEM from the junk yard and runs like butter now.

I’m glad you got it fixed. It’s pretty bad when you have to replace replacement parts with 30+ year old used OEM junk. 🤦🏻‍♂️😂

@@HotRodsHowTos lmao

Heck yeah! Glad you got heat again!

It’s a 2012

As thin as an aluminum can is, I’d be afraid the exhaust gasses would burn through it. But you’re right about unplugging it. It doesn’t get much cheaper than that. lol

Yeah could be a clogged fuel filter. I’d definitely start there. Good luck.

@@HotRodsHowTos Fuel filter is clean and runs fuel out. Now, it starts, runs, goes dead but shakes and jerks before it goes dead. It will energize the injectors but will not keep feeding them.

Sounds like a fuel pump

@@HotRodsHowTosOnly had about 10 pounds fuel pressure on test today. Either the regulator is letting it go back to the pump or the tank switch is circulating the gas? Will check again tomorrow.

@@HotRodsHowTos It was pumping slowing through it and checked the pressure today and it was about 10 pounds so i got to check more.

That may not be just one issue. You could have multiple things going on. Hard to say what exactly. I’d definitely check for vacuum leaks. I’ve read that the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) can cause idle issues too. I haven’t had that issue, so I can’t say for sure, but that’s what I’ve read. Also check fuel pressure. It dying could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter. If it’s never been changed, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to do it. Also, I’ve read that a bad MAP sensor can cause that too. But again, I’ve never dealt with that so I can’t say for sure. Good luck!

I’ve replaced all of the sensors and most of the parts you could think to replace and it still wants to die after I press the gas

I wouldn’t think so. Unless the thermostat is sticking open, and your Liberty is having trouble getting up to operating temperature. The heater core can get so clogged that flushing it doesn’t help. At that point, you have to replace it.

@@HotRodsHowTos the liberty is getting to operating temp no prob, just not getting heat out of inside dash. Hopefully flushing out heater core will do the trick. I certainly don't want to replace it and even changing the thermostat is a pain as well.

@@T-bone9 good luck. I hope the flush works for you.

@@HotRodsHowTos Thanks, good video

It worked, my Jeep has heat now, thanks for the video

I built a work table using that method. The table top was made from 2x4’s glued and screwed together. Definitely makes it stout. Thanks for watching.

Oh wow! Thank you! Glad you found it useful.

That sounds like a bad idea. 😂

Yeah, you can make them as wide as you want. I can’t remember why I settled on 11 inches, but if 12 inches will be one less cut and zero waste, then I’d definitely do that.

😂 Pretty much the same procedure on our 2012 Jeep Liberty. Not sure why the manufacturers hide a serviceable part in the hardest place to get to.

Awesome!

😂 that’s awesome

After months of combing through the internet, I was able to determine 3 things: 1) Some trucks never have this issue 2) Some trucks had this issue when they rolled off of the car lot 3) Some developed it over time. It’s been awhile since I made this video so I don’t remember everything that’s in it, but I’m pretty sure I discussed all the work that I previously did. (Like repairing vacuum lines and replacing the egr valve because the original wasn’t working). If it was a low voltage situation, or damaged vacuum lines, I would imagine that the egr valve wouldn’t open and would throw an “insufficient air flow” code. Which wasn’t the case. So I would argue that my EGR is functioning “normally”. But why do some trucks run fine, and some don’t…. I have no idea. I found the restrictor plate suggestion on a f150 forum, and I decided to give it a shot. It worked for me, so I posted the video. ***Side Note: A couple of commenters replaced their ECU’s to combat the issue. One was successful, and the other wasn’t. The successful one soldered in resistors. (No idea what all is involved , I haven’t looked into it). But the fact that it worked may be a clue to the real issue. It may be an ECU problem, and all trucks, as they age and things break down, will develop this issue in time…🤷🏻‍♂️

@@HotRodsHowTos Thanks for the reply. I haven't heard of anyone replacing resistors but everyone is talking about replacing capacitors and solving a variety of issues by doing so. Mine runs fine but I'm going to recap it before they fail and damage the board. My mileage dropped from 12.5 to 8 awhile back. I replaced the O2 sensor and it appears to be 10 mpg now. Now I'm looking at the EGR to further improve that. I haven't looked for any codes yet and I'll have to do it manually since the OBD 1 readers that are available are not for trucks over 8500 GVW. Oh, mine is a 1990 F350 crew cab 4x4 5.8 5 spd with an 8' box and just turned 100k. It's a real beauty.

Oh wow! Sounds like a nice truck! Capacitors is probably what the guy meant to say instead of resistors. I don’t know anything about it, but I guess I’m gonna have to learn pretty soon. Mine has a random misfire at idle that’s getting worse. It’s throwing a “spark output circuit open” code (213). Which doesn’t make sense. I’m about ready to throw a carb’d 351 in it and be done. 😂 Good luck with your truck’s mpg issue. 🤞🏻

I doubt it. My issue was way more than a hesitation. It was a pretty severe bucking/jerking.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Good luck! 🤞🏻

Let us know if it fixed the issue

@@doubts72 it didn’t work in mine! Still stuck!!

@@mattbird267 I got code 512 . Looked for a bad ground and noticed the previous owner literally cut the negative battery cable from the battery to the block . He did a lousy job at adding another negative/ ground cable . I used a wire brush to remove all the erosion from the contacts on both negative and positive wire connections. I placed an order from rockauto for the battery ground cable . I called local ford dealership they said ford doesn’t make them anymore. So yeah waiting on that part to come in to see if it will make the 512 code go away I might do a video if it works . The only other thing to repair would be the pcm since the capacitors are probably leaking . Saving that one for last as it’s the most expensive repair.

@@mattbird267let us know if you found a fix. I have the 5.0 and just came across this issue

Thank you!

Glad I could help!

Does any of the dash lights come on when you turn the key?

Could just be the battery. A bad alternator will drain the battery. If it’s too weak, it won’t do anything when you turn the key. Put a battery charger on it and make sure the battery has a full charge and then try again. If the battery won’t take a charge, then it’s bad and will need to be replaced. If it does take a charge, but still won’t crank, then it could be something a little more serious. If that happens, turn the key on and observe what the car is doing. Are there any unusual lights on in the dash? (Lights you’ve never seen before). Do the power windows work? Is the car acting like it’s possessed? If so, it could be the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). That’s the big fuse block under the hood on the driver side. There’s plenty of videos here on TH-cam that show how to replace that. (I found a place on eBay that rebuilds them). If the battery is charged and everything seems normal, it just won’t crank, it could be the starter. But I wouldn’t think that the alternator and starter would go bad at the same time. Good luck. I’ll try to help as much as can.

I was afraid of that…. PSA: Don’t get shee-mar’d kids! 😂

Can you be a little more specific?

It would be immediate. If it still bucks after disconnecting the egr and blocking the vacuum line, you’ve got another issue.

Hard to say. I’d run a diagnostic check to see if it’s throwing any codes. (It probably won’t, but ya never know). Someone else had commented and their situation sounded a lot like yours. He ended up having to replace the ECM to fix the issue. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck.

@@jeremyelam7855 you ever figure it out? I’m stuck also!

Same here 92 flareside 5.0 blue

Absolutely! Glad I could help. Thanks for commenting.

@@HotRodsHowTos unfortunately I got the wrong one that had 18 pins instead of 12 lol I didn't even know that was a thing

🤦🏻‍♂️that sucks! I hope you get it figured out.

Thank you for this video! I was pretty confident it was this easy, but confirmation is nice. 07 Nitro, my drivers window button broke off too. It was working hit-and-miss for a while, I think maybe the contact is dirty, so I really had to pull on it to get the window back up, and finally the button gave up the ghost 😂

@sarahriedener221 you’re welcome! I lived with the broken button for almost a year. 🤦🏻‍♂️. The last straw was when I took it through the car wash and almost wasn’t able to get the window back up. 😂

Safety wire pliers

Awesome man. Glad I could help!

Absolutely! Thanks for commenting.