วีดีโอ

Going to have limited time to reply(2 jobs and full time school). I first suggest disabling the secondaries completely. See if the flames and responsiveness is improved. If so, then it's safe to say that adjusting the secondaries will help with your problem. Only after confirming the secondaries are the issue, tighten the secondary return spring at least to mfg spec. Because of the age of these carbs, a bit more tension than mfg spec might be needed(no more than an extra turn). A sign that the secondary return spring has enough tension is that any bog on WOT is reduced significantly(it may not be completely eliminated as the primary squirters may also need to be adjusted(for more flow). After secondary spring tension is well adjusted then pursue the modification I show in the video. What is key is a split vacuum line to the secondary diaphram where a one way check valve allows for flow diaphram back to carb freely and an orifice restrictor is installed on the other line that regulates the carb to diaphram flow. Also worth mentioning that a carb rebuild is not a bad idea if it's not been done recently(lots of small calibrated orifices that can get clogged especially if the car is a weekender). Fine to help through replies, just understand that they may be delayed.

Yeah I agree

One node can cover multiple pixels. Multiple nodes though can be useful if you want to map the hot pixels of different isos(if your dealing with low light high iso related dead/hot pixels).

And remember that this came of the Yi action camera. Aside from the beauty of the night, I am amazed that the tiny sensor paired with the ultrawide lens was able to pull off that much detail while in video mode.

Pretty much. Still work on it and keep the project up to date with the latest UE4 patches. Last few years have been absolutely unpredictable and demanding on my free time. When anything comes out I will post. No shortage of things to work on, only time.

@@saccaed good luck! thanks for the quick reply

Eh, mine runs great after tuning. Unless I come across something for nothing, I plan on swapping the engine before considering a minor carb upgrade.

Choke is user preference. Adjusting air door spring tension is another adjustment point but does not provide as much control. Not that anyone would need the configuration, but by adjusting the vacuum line the secondaries can be opened over 10+ seconds reliably(I tested to ~12 seconds for a laugh). Air door tension at best allows for ~2 seconds of secondary control before the spring tension is too stiff for reliable adjustment.

A bit more than bunny hopping, but that plays a part. Bunny hopping paired with circle strafing will produce more acceleration. For CPMA the circle strafing translates directly to air strafing as well.

Uhmmm Urk :)

Should not pose an issue. That's what I did.

Ok thank you I just was not sure

At the time I was quoted something around $1000 parts and labor. Doing the work myself I saved ~$600.

Alex Morais did you ever figure it out?

Only when reinstalling the timing belt. Flying miata sells a key chain bottle opener cam lobe locking plate that is worth the money. Best practice is to align the crank and cams as if doing a new timing belt install rather than lock everything down before removing the cylinder head.

@@saccaed thanks, thata helpful.

Near San Francisco, California

That has other effects that hinder control of performance. The air door spring is not what is meant to control how the secondaries open. Modulating vacuum to the air door control actuator means that the secondary return spring can be set to do just that and the vacuum actuator set to match engine responsiveness.

Ignorance On the contrary, the air door spring is specifically meant to control how the secondaries open. The vacuum diaphragm connection to the secondary air door is there only to damp actuation in very specific combinations of high manifold vacuum and deep throttle resulting in incipient secondary throttle opening. Simply tighten the secondary air door spring tension a little bit and you can eliminate the need for the orifice installed in the pull-off vacuum supply line. Installation of vacuum control devices is not mentioned in any technical reference on ThermoQuad design, operation, service, troubleshooting, or modification.

See the edit of the video description for links to content I found. Agree to disagree on the importance of tuning the air door spring tension instead of installing a line restriction to the door actuator. Speaking on technical reference, I have several thermoquad manuals and none mention tuning the air door spring tension or installing a line restriction to tune the air door actuator. In all of the manuals the air door spring tension is to be set a specific turn count past when spring tension just closes the door (1.5 turns observed). In producing this video I adjusted the air door spring tension alone, the actuator line restriction alone, and both together. I found similar results mentioned in the forum post I came across while looking for thermoquad modifications; "Air door tension (this is not as critical as one and two, start with 2 turns and change in steps of .25. I dont think you need to go less than 1.5 turns or more than 2.5)". I too found that air door tension played a minor role when tuning the air door. Tight enough to close reliably, relaxed enough to not impede the door opening in line with the door actuator. Playing with the secondary door actuator line restriction gave great amounts of tuneability in comparison. While impractical, I was able to tune the air door to fully open from sub second to about 5 seconds with reliable and controlled results. I also recorded video all tests looking down the throat of the secondaries for analysis afterwards. Comparing footage afterwards I noticed that spring tension was unreliable in comparison to vacuum line restriction adjustment; adjusting the vacuum line restriction produced smooth operation of the secondaries always; adjusting spring tension unreliably controlled how the door opened, in some cases overly relaxed and snappy. I did this and had better results than when I only adjusted the spring tension for the air door.

@silverbird58 Think it was 91 at time of filming.

This is Quake Live. As for getting the map, you should be able to make an QL account and play on it for free(its a training map). Otherwise, Q3A has very similar maps to play with, can't be specific off the top of my head, but I know the Q3A training maps are a thing(probably defrag maps).

Maybe. When you pull the cylinder head off you want to check for distortion. If you've never overheated, there is a good chance only the gasket will need replacing.

Ignorance I mean yeah I've overheated my Miata numerous times

You probably will need to take the cylinder head in to be resurfaced then. If your in the united states you can order ported and resurfaced heads from cylinder heads international. They will likely cost a bit more than simply having the head resurfaced but you will make slightly better power, and ported heads are better for turbo or supercharger additions down the road if that interests you. Either way, a simply resurfacing probably will cost a couple hundred dollars.