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I do agree. However, this particular stand design and material does not hurt transient any bit yet it also improves bass response in a very big margin. I can say transient is definately not hurt because the spatial awareness was improved. (which is mainly affected by high frequency) In my perspective, this is total improvement... (This is true only when it is made with beech wood. For other woods, all the weakness you stated revealed.) Accroding to an engineer from Dynaudio, there are 2 major types of speaker stands : 1) A very heavy one that's supposed to physically "fix" the whole cabinet to the ground so unneccessary resonance is thinned by its connect total mass (which is THE GROUND). This is just so the unit is the only one that's moving. In this case, they use spikes for the feet so it has similar effect as it is fixed to the ground with bolts. 2) A very light and resonance-cancelling structure. ISO Acoustics' stands are good examples. This adds a tiny bit of resonance to the sound, but ideally that addition is minimized. I see this wooden stand is kind of an 'isolator' in this regard, which adds a tiny bit of wood resonation to the sound. By the way, I've used a thin metal one and a thick metal one. They both had this strange "metal resonation" added which I didn't like.

spvlinn - Your comments are completely at odds with Harbeth’s own recommendation - namely the Tontrager wooden stands (outrageously overpriced at £1k). Made in beech, ash, oak or cherry using schoolboy joinery (basic housing joints, not tenons as they describe it). I’m a cabinetmaker and knocked up a pair in cherry for a fraction of the price and they perform beautifully.

@@AbleCho maybe things changed. I do remember the founder said expansive cables amps don't matter. They all sound the same. Finally I figured out it's coloration of the walls. I was really shocked by comparing a pair of Naim sbl vs 30.1M many years ago, the Naim sbl completely murdered the Harbeth that simply could not keep up in fast baseline at all!

Oops. Well, who would tell?

Good luck! I also made one with walnut. Check out if you wanna see how it looks. It's in the end of the 3rd video.

Thank you. No, it's just a hobby.

감사합니다. :)

Beech

Sorry for the belated reply. I used Beech and so far it is the best sounding material along with Oak. It's 20mm thick, 45mm width.

Mine died pretty soon. I guess that's what happens when you use it for vacuuming woodwork dust. I feel sorry.

Hi. Sorry for late reply. Its 20mm thick and 45mm width. Hope this helps.

@@AbleCho Would it be possible to get the scheme, if available?

@@yoddeb Sorry. I no longer have the scheme. I remember the height being 510mm tho.

Sorry for the belated reply. I am sorry but I lost the plans. But I do remember that I used 20mm thick and 45mm width solid beech wood.

Good luck to you 10 month a go! (Sorry for the belated reply)

Thanks for watching. :) I am sorry but because this is not my original design, I think its better not to share the entire scheme. However, I think I can share the width and thickness of the lumber. Width : 48mm Thickness : 20mm Dimensions are in accordance with the speaker cabinet size, and should be easy to find on the internet.

Thanks.

Thanks for watching. :) I am sorry but because this is not my original design, I think its better not to share the entire scheme. However, I think I can share the width and thickness of the lumber. Width : 48mm Thickness : 20mm Dimensions are in accordance with the speaker cabinet size, and should be easy to find on the internet.

@@AbleCho I totally understand, thank you for your answer. Actually the scheme is pretty straight forward and the results look nice. With the material I decided to try a smaller width - I cant really recommend that though since it doesnt seem to be pretty stiff in the end. I may have to try it with 48mm again.

Thanks for understanding. :) Actually, smaller width would more likely yield better sonic result. To be precise, less weight will do. And judging by the thing I made, you can go as smaller as 42 * 18mm without having durability issues(maybe much less). The pillars will endure the entire weight, and no significant force is applied horizontally.

I am sorry to say that I don't have one for M30.1.

@@AbleCho Hi, perfectly work done, very nice and neat! Can you please reach me Mindaugas.kop@gmail.com? Or how can I reach you? Just want to ask you several questions about some technique.

​@@mk7969 Sorry for late reply. You can ask right here just so everyone else can also see. Well, I mean as a new thread so we can leave this guy alone :)

bass increased, top end clearer, slightly more resonance.

Able Cho cool....I am thinking of this as a project for my p3’s anniversary

Able Cho great video series. I’m sure Tontraeger might be mad at you...lol she is a badass.

@@billybastar4022 LOL I hope they're not. In fact the build quality of their product is second to none. I'm sure there is a difference :) Thanks, by the way.

I use beech mainly but sometimes walnut and oak. I got an order for P3ESR stand and currently in production. It will be the next video. :) Currently I'm not getting orders because of my short free time. It will take ages to make one and will be painful for me and the client both. Please pardon me for that.

@@AbleCho Ok, thaks :) Could you publish the scheme / dimensions for P3? I will be very grateful.

@@hasos1 I would send you a scheme personally if u give me your email address :)

@@AbleCho Thank you very much!

@@hasos1 just sent you. :)

Thanks. As far as I know they are 100% wood. Not sure if they use wood pins or pieces. Mine doesn't. Actually I'm planning a video for P3ESR version too. It will take some time before I actually upload it tho.

@@AbleCho I will follow ..thanks a lot.

they use German Beech as a rule, but can do walnut, ash, cherry etc as a special order.

감사합니다!!

좋게 봐 주셔서 감사합니다. ^^ 말씀이 힘이 되네요. 열심히 만들어서 올리겠습니다.