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Did we ever find out what he did in this video?

Z is Zed in English. Americans wobbled off and say Zee. The rest of the English world says Zed.

That looks so good😍

Z binding

Amazing work 👍🏼

I really hope this comes back to life, if there was a sign this wasn't dead I'd totally sign up for the patreon

Can such pump pump 24+ h non stop?

I just started 3d printing, I don't understand computer talk…. This was super easy to understand and you kept my attention very well.

Does anyone have links to the files for the runout testing jig he uses at 15:30?

Top Gear reference is all I needed to trust this. Thank you!

It's clickbait!

I COULD YOU CREATE AN ADAPTATION FOR ENDER 3 V3 SE? I HAVE ALREADY PURCHASED THE WOBLLEx

what was the solution?!

Cooling

What else did you watercool besides the printhead?

So hydrate your filament to make them last longer and prints lighter. Got it.

It never happened

Amazing in-depth problem solving here. Thx!

Wow what printer is that? Nice pronts

Yea this video is exactly what was wrong with my printer. --- this video is literally like the one dude said A WHOLD PHD IN A VID. -- this is the best most detailed video ever. - thanks.

Konniggessegissegggeggissegggg

Beautiful finish

i am thinking ti am thinking to hanging my carriage, put the z motors upper, what do you think?

This is the quality content people need, you just earned yourself a sub

now we just need carbon fiber asa

Larger gears!!! For extruder 10x lager

I’m waiting for MirageC to come out with a +-0.005mm filament to finally find all his problems

It’s inconsistent bed temperature. Can be solved with PID tuning.

Speed can also make that difference

After buying 2 of the T8 versions of the WobbleX (at $16.50 each), here's my conclusion: They were installed on a HEVORS coreXY printer with a moving bed. Under normal use they seem to work as advertised. HOWEVER, even with 4 start lead screws, the gantry will drop somewhat under its own weight when the printer is powered off. When the printer is powered on again and the axis homed I have had the 2 leadscrews become slightly out of sync due to the uneven drop of the gantry. I have 2 independent steppers on my Z axis. This causes the wobbleX coupling to become "disconnected" from the bed bracket and the balls to fall off. So if the leadscrews become even slightly out of sync there is nothing stopping RADIAL movement of the wobblex coupling. If your printer has only 1 leadscrew or only 1 Z axis stepper with a drive belt driving both leadscrews you might be ok. I have since removed them and installed oldham couplings. Problem solved for 1/2 the cost of the 2 wobblex couplings. I have 2 "very slightly" used wobblex t8 couplings for sale if anyone is interested. I only recommend them for printers with either 1 leadscrew or 1 Z stepper. YMMV.

The best video ever!

Newton's first law says nothing of the kind. The first law defines inertial reference frames in which his laws hold. It is a characteristic of such reference frames that velocity is constant unless a force is present. The details matter.

Hy man! how is going with you? everything ok?

waste of time

Where can I buy that ruler at 0:00

I can’t be the only one that just doesn’t see the ripple effect he’s talking about. When he shows the three tubes, side by side starting at 19:30, they look the same to me. What am I missing?

Bed PID

What's that nozzle's size? Printed at 100µm layer height? Anyhow THAT is absolute PERFECT. Well done! 👏🏼

Pardon the harsh criticism, but this is far from "revolutionary" and you're absolutely aware of it - I've watched a bunch of your videos, and this "clickbaity" pattern repeats itself a bit. Your videos are of EXCEPTIONAL quality, binge watch worthy! Your marketing is too aggressive, however. This makes you lose A LOT of credibility. Your videos literally sell themselves. Give it time and the algorithm will answer, don't rush it - a potential "clickbait!" backlash could sink your ship.

❌use appropriate motion system for the 3D printer ❌improve all parts together, i.e. use a frame and linear rails that are meant to be used with a ballscrew or have the ballscrew mounted in actual metal brackets instead of weak and flexible and inaccurate plastic prints ❌buy high quality parts instead of a crooked ballscrew ✅ use crooked ballscrew that is way too big for this fragile printer and spend the money you saved on the ballscrew for extended engineering just to make the cheaper ballscrew somewhat usable, and then sell the solution to your self-inflicted problem on youtube

Yeah I've watched some of your long ass informative videos and yeah they was great, butt this is straight bullshit braa

Does press fitting the gear solve the issue?

Qu’est ce que j’aurais adoré faire ça étant petit … ! Quelle chance !!!

Wheres the rest of the series?

how do you make a cad simulation like that? 18:30 that's verry neat. i thought i knew how to 3d draw anything i wanted. but i guess i have only just started. (and i know it's just tied to the constraints and it's a part of the parametric design. but how to actually do it in that way, i have no clue)

How Long does it Teske to Print it on your Printer?

Where can I find the file for the bolt and washer guide stl?

could you by chance please link the song at 45s?

Time to go back to bowden?? Any good bowden printers out there these days?

Did you save your settings for stepping in the printer settings?