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What section of the database does it say it could be fixed? The issue you have is what is wrong with these.

@@Tims_Projects 7.6 Software resetThe Software Reset Call (SWRST Call) allows all the devices in the I2C-bus to be reset tothe power-up state value through a specific formatted I2C-bus command. To be performedcorrectly, it implies that the I2C-bus is functional and that there is no device hanging thebus.The SWRST Call function is defined as the following:1. A START command is sent by the I2C-bus master.2. The reserved SWRST I2C-bus address ‘0000 000’ with the R/W bit set to ‘0’ (write) issent by the I2C-bus master.3. The PCA9685 device(s) acknowledge(s) after seeing the General Call address‘0000 0000’ (00h) only. If the R/W bit is set to ‘1’ (read), no acknowledge is returned tothe I2C-bus master.4. Once the General Call address has been sent and acknowledged, the master sends1 byte with 1 specific value (SWRST data byte 1):a. Byte 1 = 06h: the PCA9685 acknowledges this value only. If byte 1 is not equal to06h, the PCA9685 does not acknowledge it.If more than 1 byte of data is sent, the PCA9685 does not acknowledge any more.5. Once the correct byte (SWRST data byte 1) has been sent and correctlyacknowledged, the master sends a STOP command to end the SWRST Call: thePCA9685 then resets to the default value (power-up value) and is ready to beaddressed again within the specified bus free time (tBUF).The I2C-bus master must interpret a non-acknowledge from the PCA9685 (at any time) asa ‘SWRST Call Abort’. The PCA9685 does not initiate a reset of its registers. Thishappens only when the format of the SWRST Call sequence is not correct.Fig 12. SWRST Call0000000AS0General Call addressSTART conditionacknowledgefrom slave002aac900SWRST data byte 1Aacknowledgefrom slavePSTOPcondition00001100 pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/293576/NXP/PCA9685.html ============== seen on a forum somewhere that it needs a certain sequence otherwise it wont cooperate.

So people say, I forget to clip them.

Do you have the magazines and cd's? Back in the day when Idroid-01 was published there where applications and detailed info on the CD's There is a site that still has this info win.adrirobot.it/menu_new/index/index_idroid.htm There are two documents to look for, They are HTML documents, "bluetooth-protocol" and "I2C_Protocol", these two document list the communication protocols to control the robot. There is also some IDE software to write script that it can interpret when uploaded to it. It is old software, you may have difficulty running on modern computers, It is based on an old version of python.

Do you have the magazines and cd's? Back in the day when Idroid-01 was published there where applications and detailed info on the CD's There is a site that still has this info win.adrirobot.it/menu_new/index/index_idroid.htm There are two documents to look for, They are HTML documents, "bluetooth-protocol" and "I2C_Protocol", these two document list the communication protocols to control the robot. There is also some IDE software to write script that it can interpret when uploaded to it. It is old software, you may have difficulty running on modern computers, It is based on an old version of python.

I don't have magazines and CDs, but are these ISO files downloaded from the Internet enough? I found information about a 'visual c like editor' environment in a c-like language and I also read about programming in java, but I didn't find anything about programming in python. where could I find this? or is it possible to replace the 'visual c like editor' program with some other visual editor? BTW. Your droid control program for computer and phone seems to be great, I will check it on my idroid soon.

​@@user-eo2ok4xx1t Download the CD ISO's and you should have every thing you need. I may have got it wrong. It could have been java. It may java that that "Visual C type editor" needs installed on your computer to run, It's been a while since I did this. With the "Visual C type editor" you can write scripts to make the robot do things. These scripts when uploaded will be compiled and run by the robot. On the cd images there should be an extensive help file that lets you know what you can do and the commands. What ever "Visual C type editor" needs to have installed to run, I had to change the way windows stared the "Visual C type editor", I had to make it use a specific (old) version of what it needs. It is verry good if you get it to run. it may be worth trying to make an old virtual version of windows to run it on. I think there are example scripts once you get it running. Take a look towards the end of this th-cam.com/video/b1yUujn6X2Y/w-d-xo.html It show briefly an example script to use the infrared. If you want to make an application like mine the one shown in this video, You need to know how to make a windows application, I used MS Visual Studio Community to do this, You need to know how to pair up with a Bluetooth module, once you have done that, you use the protocols in the documents "bluetooth-protocol" and "I2C_Protocol" the Bluetooth protocols will let you control most of it, the I2C protocols lets you use its internal I2C bus which you can add peripherals via the socket next to the breadboard.

@@Tims_Projects I managed to install "visual c like editor". Can programs be uploaded via software to the computer that you made? how to send programs to the robot? via bluetooth or usb? I saw an RJ12-9 pin cable on your blog, I don't know what it is for. Can programs be uploaded via USB like on Arduino?

@@user-eo2ok4xx1t If I remember right the "visual c like editor" has an upload button to upload the script you make. I think it was a two part thing, upload to robot, you tell it where to store it, there is like allocation slots/indexed locations, then you tell the robot to compile it. You should be able to tell the robot to run it using my program, the "visual c like editor" should also be able to tell the robot to run it I think. You can upload several scripts, each in its own allocation slot, to run a script, you choose it, compile it, then run it. You only need to compile it again if you change to a different script I think, but not sure.

Thanks, I like your quadruped 👍

Glad you like it.

Thank you, glad you like. I have now finished and published my Instructable. The link is now in the description. In the Instructable I have done some animations to try and show it better.

Thanks for leaving a reply, I am glad you like it.

I don't know. I guess a colour laser printer would be needed, It would be nice to see if it dose work. I don't have a colour laser printer though. 😏

@@Tims_Projectsthanks. ill try it tgis weeks end.

It's great you have one. There is a link at the bottom of my Blog page to an old site, it has a lot of information about this robot. You may need to make the special cable for it if you don't have one. With the cable you can update the firmware from the CD's that came with it. The cable helps debug problems. Do you just get the robot, or was you able to get all the magazines and extras with it? I also did an Instructable to upgrade the batteries: www.instructables.com/I-Droid-01-Is-Not-Dead-Yet-AKA-I-Qbot-01/

@@Tims_Projects It's pretty cool thing to have, not sure if it's possible to like upgrade the CPU, Bluetooth to newer version to consume less energy, and maybe even higher quality camera. If you have the CD and software would u be able to upload it ?

@@Tims_Projects not sure if my last comment was added. i mentioned: yes i only got the robot. but it seems to be fully build. has Camera, Bluetooth, Usb/Network connection on the back. i also managed to get it working, only the head is not moving left/right does go up/down. so will have to open it up again and see what went wrong. a lots of cable inside :D thanks for the tip about the old Page at end of the Blog, seems very informative

@@sanelb1147 The old web site has the CD's, I think they may be Italian, there is no English for this robot, it didn't seem to come to the UK for some reason. The version I have is Dutch (I-Qbot), I have no idea what it is saying haha. I looked at doing upgrades, but without out access to the source code it would be hard to do. When I got my robot I striped a lot of it down and took my time re-building it, to make it all work better.

The OE is set LOW by default. You pull this pin HIGH (by external source) if you want to disable all the output pins. You still need to be able to talk to it. If you look at the data sheet at the block diagram, you will see that the OE is connected to the MUX/Control, this is after communication part of the chip. I have also done an intractable here: www.instructables.com/Tims-PCA9685-Controller/

You may be interested in the Instructable also www.instructables.com/I-Droid-01-Is-Not-Dead-Yet-AKA-I-Qbot-01/

@@Tims_ProjectsGot here from there :)

I am glad you like it. I put my upgraded one on Instructables www.instructables.com/Tims-Little-ROV/

The fun is in the build.

@@Tims_ProjectsAfter I hit "reply" my wife reminded me that my coffee always gets cold as I shave my own yaks. Does this have an audible alarm at the perfect temp?

@@xptical Not this one. My original does, it beeps "I'm a little teapot" 🙂

@@Tims_Projects Classic. Either way, cool channel and cool projects. We are watching now.

@@xptical Thank you, hope I dream up some more stuff soon, sometimes a bit of time passes before I get a revelation haha.

I think Autodesk software is verry good and powerful, but I class it as professional software for a business that uses it to make money. A business that installs it on a dedicated machine just for the CAD. Because with Autodesk software there are support applications always running on the machine in the background. On my personal computer I just want what I am using at the time running. As my projects are a hobby, and I am now retired, I don't fall in the students free licence category. FreeCAD as the name says is free. Also it is open source, which means I could make my own add-ins should the need be. I also use KiCAD, the circuit boards I make can be ported to FreeCAD, so when modelling I know the PCB fit. I do all my 3D printed parts on FreeCAD also. For 2D drawings I use LibeCAD. I use this because it uses an old version of DXF file format, which I am able to convert in my Plotter Projects. I used transistors because I have two LEDs in parallel and I am using the power from the USB (5v) the microcontroller pins can only handle 3.3v. The disc in the middle is self-adessive aluminium foil. I was trying to transfer the heat to the sensor quicker.

@@Tims_Projects Very neat. I use KiCad as well. I'm tempted to use FreeCAD, but just wonder how well it would work for me. Guess it would be easy enough to try.

@@jcoaudio I find that all CAD programs are much alike, It's just a matter of finding what the other application has named the button you want to use. If you try FreeCAD Start in In the "Part Design" work bench. Think of FreeCAD as an overall CAD Engine, each workbench has commands for a type of task. You will need to add the KiCAD plug-in to import PCBs. Paths may need setting for the location of the component models if you don't have the default installation path.

@@Tims_Projects Thanks!

If you visit my Instructable and register with Instructables, you will be able to send me private messages. www.instructables.com/Tims-Hot-Beverage-Coaster/ I can give you my email in the private messages. An other option if it works, I have a contact form on my blog. timsblogplace.blogspot.com/2018/07/blog-post.html

Did you test the k sensor and the max on an other Arduino with my firmware? Or was the test with your own code? In my Instructable, see Step 36, Apehaenger has also done some firmware you could try.

​@@Tims_Projects not even two minutes ago...i manage to make it work. I plugged the connectors visually, looking at you scheme (the one with component pictures), which is not correct in the max section. ex: the central pin, which is SCK, doesn't connect to D6 but D8. Your schematic is correct. By the way...is working now. :) Thank you for all you work and for the answer. Great job! Now i need to assembly alll this. Greetings from Portugal!

@@netorui Ah I see where the confusion is. The Part in the Fritzing Breadboard does not have the pinout in the same order as the real life component. I should have written the pin names on the Fritzing Breadboard part. Glad you got it working.

The two voltages from the batteries (the cable with red, black and white wires) go through voltage regulators when they get to the robot. The low voltage regulator cannot (must not) take more than 6 volts, I send 5 volts, the motor power I send 8 volts (batteries fully charged) the motor voltage after regulator ends up 6 volts. Regards amperage, the robot will only take what it needs, I haven't measured it (I would not think more than an amp). BUT, if you are wanting to charge re-chargeable batteries that's a different thing. I recommend taking batteries out and using a charger designed for the batteries. The two sockets are "Barrel Jacks" but they have an over-sized pin, so need a barrel jack with a larger hole than normal. Actually I think one is over sized so it could not be plugged into the other. Can't remember I don't use them. Since I did this video, I have done an intractable about my battery upgrade. www.instructables.com/I-Droid-01-Is-Not-Dead-Yet-AKA-I-Qbot-01/ You may want to do something like I have. If you have queries about the Instructable just ask.

Thanks for letting me know. I will see if I can find the issue. I'll ask my son to try it on his machine. Could you tell me which OS you have. I assume you installed as github.com/Palingenesis/OwonB41T/blob/main/Install%20Files/Tim's%20OWON%20Meter%20UI/Install%20Instructions.txt

@@Tims_Projects Yes. It Windows 10 64bit . Will try another notebook and see if same hash issue .

@@mrb1864 I think I have sorted it. The way GitHub works is a little new to me, I only know so much. I think GitHub is changing something in the files that alter the way "One Click Install" works. What I have done is Zipped up the Install folder. The Zip is a Zip of the folder before Git gets it's hands on it. So if you unzip the zip of the folder you should end up with the unaltered files. I hope all that made sense haha.😉 Hopefully all will work as expected. Fingers crossed.🤞 Normally this is what I do with my applications I just zip them up and put them on my google drive, this was the first time I tried to merge with someone else's Git and upload all the source. Thank you for brining the issue to my attention. Happy new year.

@@Tims_Projects That solved it Tim 👍 Was assuming might be way GitHub handles files or something funky with W10 And was going try it on W7, W11 . Will try it out logging parasitic draw and some other automotive tests . Thanks for your helpful response, Will keep looking in on the projects. Happy New Year ...

@@mrb1864 If you have trouble connecting to other muddles, check there name they have been given. I have the B35T+ But the Bluetooth may see it as BDM (Bluetooth Digital Meter) I think OWON use this as a default name. There is an option to change the name of my meter, but if I do it wont be recognized as an OWON Meter. The current names it will recognize are: "B41T", "B41T+", "BDM", "B35T", "B35T+". Currently I don't think there is an option in JTCash part of the code to have a custom name. Thanks for trying it and letting me know it works. It makes me happy to know that something I have published works for someone else.

Not sure, I made the application to just save on having to write code all the time to test my projects. The output is just a string, I suppose you could send the string to a project any way you wish. So far I have just used UART, ether USB or Bluetooth.

@@Tims_Projects thanks a lot! Could make my ioBroker to form the strting and send it via MQTT. -> your video was the inspiration to do so.

What error do you get? Its been a while since I did this, I have not tried it on windows 11, is this what you have?

The difficulty is the PTC it works verry fast, when you add heat it stays for quite a while. It was a fine balance, I spent quite some time adjusting the PID. I found if I want accuracy, I just need to let it settle for a few minutes.

This works because the Toner (print) in a laser printer is made out of fine plastic powder. To do something similar with an inkjet printer, have a search for: "Water Slide Decal Paper", this should find you something, that may work for you.

@@Tims_Projects From my understanding the decal paper works just like a sticker, is that correct? I'm trying to avoid having a clear background or having to cut out my design.

@@FlickerJab I have not used "Water Slide Decal Paper", I think you end up with something like you get with "airfix models" (plastic models you glue together). I was going by what "kjell_nilsson " showed me on Instructables. Take a look at the comments for "I made it" kjell_nilsson posted his results. www.instructables.com/Add-Decals-to-Plastic-Prints-Also-DSO138-Oscillosc/

Thanks for leaving a comment. I hope it helps.

Glad you liked it. The resolution of the video was the best at the time, no go-pro or phone cameras back then. 🙂

This is some of my early work, I now find it much easier to use a web page based control. I have done some Instructables on how to control things through an IP Server using a camera and servo. www.instructables.com/Tims-Little-ROV/ There are some more Instructables on how to make your server and web page to control things. www.instructables.com/Wi-Fi-Control-of-a-Motor-With-Quadrature-Feedback/ www.instructables.com/Wi-Fi-Control-of-Intelligent-LEDs-With-a-Web-Page-/ Hope this helps.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for leaving a comment.

Thank you for leaving a comment.

Hi, sorry for the late reply, haven't had notifications for a while. It may work, but I don't think there will be as much fusion with the paint, you may have to add a lacquer or something to give it some permanence.

Thank you Nick, sorry for the late reply. I did not get a notification.

Thank you Nick, I didn't get a notification, sorry for the late reply.

Thank you nick, I think I'm there with it, had a few iterations to get to this point, learnt a lot on the way. Sorry for the late reply.

Thankyou Mick. Sorry for the late reply, no notifications lately.

@@Tims_Projects No problem, sir. Just keep doing what you're doing. 😉❤

Thanks for leaving a comment, I would love to see how it turns out :) Sorry for the late reply, no notifications lately.

Sorry for the late reply. I have looked for, this type of paper, I find that similar stuff, when bought as is, a bit expensive. Someone posted something you may be interested in on my inscrutable channel. Have a search for: "Water Slide Decal Paper ", this should find you something similar to what you speak of.

@@Tims_Projects thanks a lot. found this Water Slide Decal Paper. about 20 Euro for 20 A4 sheets on Amazon. might buy some for 3d printing, or maybe even to apply decals on a mug. good job, mate

I think it would be much the same for any language. You need a good understanding of G-Code. If you have that then it's just a matter of drawing the lines. I use Visual Basic.NET to make this program using Microsoft Visual Studio community edition. This version of Visual Studio is free. (TH-cam made a link of Basic.NET, don't use it.) This is VS: visualstudio.microsoft.com/vs/community/

@@Tims_Projects do you have any course or video , i have problem about working with drawing

@@danyarsniper8793 I am afraid I haven't done any tutorials for writing code, there is so much on the internet. As I say I use Microsoft Visual Studio community edition. Microsoft have a very good site with examples when using Visual Studio. I use Visual Basic because a lot of it is drag and drop (visual). But Visual studio can handle a few languages. Here's an example of the sort of help MS gives: learn.microsoft.com/en-us/dotnet/api/system.drawing.graphics.fromimage?view=windowsdesktop-8.0 If you look to the top right of the Main Title "Graphics.FromImage(Image) Method" you will see an option to change the language you want to use. Hope this puts you in the right direction.

@@Tims_Projects thank you so much, it’s great for me, but i need reduce time by get videos , why am asking you that program you have i want make same , making my own software for cnc and gcode processing ,if you can do it for me i will pay money . thanks

@@danyarsniper8793 Thanks for your offer, but I just do this for a hobby, I am not a professional programmer. TH-cam has lots of tutorials if you search for them.

Glad you had good results. Sorry for the lateness of my reply, got no notification. Started turning my music off now when doing videos, to much pain, trying to get it right, ha-ha.

Glad you like it, thankyou for leaving a comment. Sorry for the lateness of my reply, got no notification.

Thankyou. Sorry for the lateness of my reply, got no notification. just found where to fine the missed replies on TH-cam.

Glad it is what you want. Sorry my reply took longer, got no notification. Just found on TH-cam where to find missed comments.

I am glad you like it, thank you for posting.

Thank you so much, I am glad you think so, 😉.

Normally when I talk, It would be to someone I know and they would say; "TIM, Your mumbling again." and I would speak up. I know about it and I am trying to sort it. I am hard of hearing and some times I get it wrong. I also tend to get out of breath these days. Hopefully future videos will improve. More often than not, my videos are part of a blog or an Instructable, usually the video will come first. So, I have to thank you, this has reminded me to put the link in the description. My instructable will give more detailed information. www.instructables.com/Tims-10-Colour-Plotter-Pen/

@@Tims_Projects Good to know, Tim. I did try not to come off as being rude when I made my comment, just trying to be constructive. God Bless!

@@sz72909 Thankyou, no worries, say it as it is, with age comes understanding ha-ha. I just like to share what I have done, It's a hobby, I'm not trying to make a business out of it like others, if I was I would put more effort into it. I am sure I will improve as time goes on.

@Dean hey no worries, I do the same sometimes. Usually I realize what I am doing by the time I am about to click "Reply", it takes me a while to write a reply ha-ha. Thankyou for your concern. I do believe in saying it as you see it. These days people are so afraid to say what they think. It's simpler than trying to wrap it up un cotton wool.

It's a finished project, I made it up all sorts of pieces I had laying around. I went over the top a bit with the design, a much simpler machine could be done using other items. The 3 jaw chuck was an experiment to see if I could make one. I designed it with FreeCAD, I have the file but it is early work, done with early versions of FreeCAD. If you want to contact me privately, the best method is through my Instructables account, there is a link in my TH-cam channel page.

There are 3 ways to connect to your I-Droid: 1. Bluetooth. 2. USB. This is just to get files like photos I-Droid takes. When plugged into your PC it should com up as a drive. you just copy files from it and delete them. 3. Serial. This is a special cable. It has what looks like a network plug on one end and a 9-pin D type plug on the other end that plugs into RS232 Serial Port on you PC if you have one. This special cable is what you need to upload firmware to I-Droid. It also gives feedback for diagnosing. The RS232 port on PCs these days are not usually available these days, some times there is a socket on the motherboard to plug a socket into, otherwise you will need a good adapter. If you don't have the special cable that came with I-Droid, I have details needed on my blog to make one. Do you have the CDs that came with I-droid? CD04 has all.

@@Tims_Projects Thanks for your fast reply! Indeed I haven't got original USB cable that comes with robot. But this cable that I got is suitable to connect i-droid with my PC. I though the problem is with drivers that nowadays aren't available. Number 1: Is there a chance to flash B&V via Bluetooth mode? Number 3: The solution is actually very hard for me to resolve. The main way for me and my capabilities is to connect I-droid through special USB cable (that I got), but system Win10 says it is unsuported device. I try to figure out what to do since a couple months...

@@dariodario4885 The USB, to see files on I-Droids Virtual Drive, will not work until it boots up completely. To update and clean any corrupted data, you need the Special Serial cable. You will only be able to fix I-Droid with the special Serial Cable. Do you have any soldering skills to make one? If necessary I could do a more detailed instruction on how to make it.

@@Tims_Projects If it is only solution to do it - I can pick up a challenge, although my skills are average. Additionally my I-droid cannot boot completly since it says "OS Starting", i don't know his all history because it's my cousin i-droid but i think the problem is that his data is corrupted and it needs to flash new software.

@@dariodario4885 Ok, what part of the information do you not understand in my blog about the cable? timsblogplace.blogspot.com/2020/12/i-droid-01.html Do you need a different (shop) link to a cable? Are you in a country that uses different online shopping? Cable with RJ12 attached. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382136994887? 9-Pin D-Sub Female. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275573002396? You need to get the above two items. Do yo have a soldering iron? One is needed to attach the 9-Pin D-Sub Female. If you want to talk privately the easiest way is to contact me through "Instructables". www.instructables.com/member/Palingenesis/instructables/

I know, they used ware away, now I forget to trim them.

Thank you. 🙂