I'm doing this exact task this Sunday, and it was worth watching the video just to find out the bit about the washer size and where it should contact the bearing.
So the shimming went well. I've got a Grizzly G0555. The lower wheel's spindle has a steel key pin, so I had to file the right shape onto the inside of the washers so that they would slip over the spindle. Additionally, I noticed that my upper wheel was contacting the bandsaw's casement at a certain point in it's rotation. That explains the mystery squeaky noise that I previously couldn't identify! I shimmed that wheel out 1/16" also and that solved that issue, luckily I had another 1/16" washer to compensate on the lower wheel as well. I'm also glad I took measurements independently on both wheels, because they had different spindle sizes and the wheel bearings had different outer diameters.
Hello! Thanks for the vid! May I ask what is an acceptable amount of in and out (forward and backward) play on the wheels. My top wheel has a bit of play along the “carrier shaft” it rides on, maybe a 1/16”
Sorry I'm late, I'm assuming this will help someone else at this point. Make sure your nut holding on the wheel is snug, *Do Not Overtighten*. With no tension or inadequate tension for the top wheel, it can move as you described. If the blade is properly tensioned and the wheel still has excessive play (movement), your bearings will need to be replaced. Note: Bottom (drive) wheel should be 100% solid/no play; Top wheel might have a very small bit of play which is considered "normal"
You tilt the top wheel to have blade track on the tire on top. As long as bottom is on tire it makes no difference. Never seen a bandsaw that top wasn't tilted to track with different blades. The reason makers put adjustmenttop wheels to tilt.
David Davis You do not have to shim the top wheel if you don't want to, but if you do your blade will track much better and since I've shimmed mine I've never had to adjust the tracking, which I previously had to frequently.
Never seen a top wheel that had to be shimmed unless it didn't have tilt adjustment. You tilt to place gullet in center then never have to adjust guides. Same as Snodgrass does at Carter . Have seen some shim the bottom so that blade stays on tire with widest blades but not the top wheel which as tilt adjustment for just that reason. Bottom always tracks same then as to gullet position. Also if top gullet is in center of wheel no drift problems on cuts.
@@pragmaticwoodworking7167 Thanks for doing this video. It's interesting how strong opinions are on both sides of this issue. You have people like Alex Snodgrass begging us 'please please' don't make the wheels coplanar, and on the other hand you have people like Mark Duginske that recommend doing it. It is nice to hear from someone who has done it and seen the results. Do you ever use a narrow blade for cutting curves, and if so, does it also track with less adjustment?
I'm doing this exact task this Sunday, and it was worth watching the video just to find out the bit about the washer size and where it should contact the bearing.
So the shimming went well. I've got a Grizzly G0555. The lower wheel's spindle has a steel key pin, so I had to file the right shape onto the inside of the washers so that they would slip over the spindle. Additionally, I noticed that my upper wheel was contacting the bandsaw's casement at a certain point in it's rotation. That explains the mystery squeaky noise that I previously couldn't identify! I shimmed that wheel out 1/16" also and that solved that issue, luckily I had another 1/16" washer to compensate on the lower wheel as well. I'm also glad I took measurements independently on both wheels, because they had different spindle sizes and the wheel bearings had different outer diameters.
this is an oldy but a goody, thanks.
Would have Lay-out plans for your pin jig?
Hello! Thanks for the vid! May I ask what is an acceptable amount of in and out (forward and backward) play on the wheels. My top wheel has a bit of play along the “carrier shaft” it rides on, maybe a 1/16”
Where's the washer under the head of the bolt ???
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass
Hi my bandsaw top wheel shakes foward and backward if it has no blade tightened on it is that normal?
Sorry I'm late, I'm assuming this will help someone else at this point. Make sure your nut holding on the wheel is snug, *Do Not Overtighten*. With no tension or inadequate tension for the top wheel, it can move as you described. If the blade is properly tensioned and the wheel still has excessive play (movement), your bearings will need to be replaced. Note: Bottom (drive) wheel should be 100% solid/no play; Top wheel might have a very small bit of play which is considered "normal"
Why didn’t you just move the pillar forward to adjust?
i know I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to watch newly released movies online ?
@@xzaviercalvin8734 I know I'm kinda randomly asking but why didn't this bot complete it's bullshit ?
Thanx
We don't "nail-gun" cabinets! Never!!
I’m curious what you’re reasoning is.
@@pragmaticwoodworking7167It's just cultural. Not criticizing your work or video.
Do you have part 3 that you will release? How can we contact you?
5 years, yet no Part 3? :(
Christian Gentry unfortunately part 3 is lost. I will hopefully have a bunch of videos coming this summer.
Good info, but my man looks sleepy
part 3 ? 🤔
You tilt the top wheel to have blade track on the tire on top. As long as bottom is on tire it makes no difference. Never seen a bandsaw that top wasn't tilted to track with different blades. The reason makers put adjustmenttop wheels to tilt.
David Davis You do not have to shim the top wheel if you don't want to, but if you do your blade will track much better and since I've shimmed mine I've never had to adjust the tracking, which I previously had to frequently.
Never seen a top wheel that had to be shimmed unless it didn't have tilt adjustment. You tilt to place gullet in center then never have to adjust guides. Same as Snodgrass does at Carter . Have seen some shim the bottom so that blade stays on tire with widest blades but not the top wheel which as tilt adjustment for just that reason. Bottom always tracks same then as to gullet position. Also if top gullet is in center of wheel no drift problems on cuts.
@@pragmaticwoodworking7167 Thanks for doing this video. It's interesting how strong opinions are on both sides of this issue. You have people like Alex Snodgrass begging us 'please please' don't make the wheels coplanar, and on the other hand you have people like Mark Duginske that recommend doing it. It is nice to hear from someone who has done it and seen the results. Do you ever use a narrow blade for cutting curves, and if so, does it also track with less adjustment?
My bottom wheel is tilted and is not adjustable...any way to straighten it out?
I agree, please release part 3.
Part 3?? Please
Part 3? Coming soon, right?
I'd really like to see part 3 of 3! Also, what is the brand of your door hinges?