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@@jncmotorsports7437 Oh man, it’s been too long ago to remember or even to try and guess. Sorry.

@@TomTremayne Sounds to me like a great time to update your shock program. Unless you are just dominating on these old shocks, which would be hard to believe. But you never know, stranger things have happened. But shocks are fairly important part of the racing program in my opinion.

The only thing I can say is not to over complicate it. It's all about which tire is loaded and how much. Make one change at a time and write it down. A race car is like a teeter totter. Whatever you do to one end of it equally effects the opposite side. You need to find the balance that you or your driver is comfortable with. And then how to adjust your car to the track and conditions. The main thing is, whether you are moving weight, changing wheel spacers, RH's, whatever, know what your wheel loads are. Most numbers you are going to come across from builders, friends etc. are just starting points anyways. It's all about the fine tuning that picks up those 2-3 tenths that everyone is chasing. Hope that helps!

Thank you! I've always loved racing with Rex for a reason. I've learned from him!

I really don't know what tires are good right now. I haven't raced karts in 3 years and tires can change a lot in that amount of time. I did feel like in this region every time we ran good on that type of track, our tires were punching around 48 on the durometer. We ended up running a lot of Hoosiers at that time. But we also ran and had good success with all the other brand too.

Thank you!

Sorry, as of now I have sold everything.

@@racerguy9483 no problem. Thanks for replying

Hey, they sold and are now ROK Chassis. I believe Eric who built them at RFC, still builds them at ROK though. But I'm sure ROK has any parts you would need.

Yeah, I didn't seem to have the good luck that weekend hahaha!

Thanks! But the Title is How I Tune My Kart. That's it, just what I do with my stuff and a few of my opinions. I've been in racing long enough to know there's another thousand opinions on everything. Good thing is you can choose a multitude of different options and go run it and see what works for you. One thing I have figured out over the last 29 years since I started racing is that you can be right today, and completely out of the loop tomorrow. You never figure it out and it's always changing. Good luck on your races!

I'm not sure how Andrew does it. But I wouldn't think it would need any heat if it's on a roller. Unless it's just really cold.

Hahaha. I was just happy it was actually making laps!

Hey Thanks! Yes it's a cool little racy track for sure. We are lucky we have a lot of awesome tracks around here. Btw getting back into it was definitely a struggle for me. Good luck out west!

Yes it is! 2012 Genesis

@@racerguy9483 that's what I thought but I wasn't forsure I have a 2003 dw8

hahaha that might be a great idea! I've been using an app on my phone. It seems to work pretty good. I just wished the gas gauge worked. I'm constantly filling it up.

@@racerguy9483 what he said is what I'm gonna do!

Thank you so much! And I agree, not tearing up anything is a good night for sure. Hopefully we'll get it up front here at some point. We are definitely working on it!

Thank you so much!

It's good to actually have some fun. Thanks!

Thank you so much!

Yeah I've never been on iracing either. But I'm going to. Tyler has talked me into it. When I get time anyways hahaha!

Yeah hopefully I'll see you soon!

All I can say is real soon! Putting the body on right now and will be picking up the new motor next week. It should all come together next week and I promise I'll start making some videos. It's just been busy and frustrating lately as I've been so far behind. I had to just stop and focus everything on getting the car done. I'm really hoping to roll it out next weekend at hit a track somewhere!

Thanks. And I do agree with you hahaha.

Good luck! I got a couple more weeks, but getting close now.

The last weekend of April for the Kegger at Tri- State Speedway is the goal right now. And you are 100% correct, I'm definitely ready to get back on the track for sure!

Hahaha yep. That and " Now I wan't you to go back out on the track and hit the pace car!"

I usually move at 1/2" increments. Unless it's really far off, I might start at 1." If you don't have any adjustment left you need to change somewhere else. Also just keep an eye on you alignment front to rear. The way the RF and RR line up also effect the handling a lot.

1/4" on either rear hub is a gigantic change as far as feel. I've never moved more than that in a weekend because if you're moving hubs that much there's other issues like wrong tires, too much caster, wrong air, something is bent.

@@chafeeracin611 Not for me. If I go to a new track, or racing a new chassis, or both, I'll give the car what it ask for to get it working. I think moving a hub 1/4 inch is really a fine tune adjustment. But I do think after running a chassis for a while you learn what it needs and likes and what to change to get it working. And the same with a driver. They all like different things to go fast. Just my opinion anyways.

I would recommend keeping the LS and RS equal. Remember your ring gear is located on the axle and angles on it can easily help throw the chain. Keeping that chain lined up comes first to me. I have ran it on a slight angle on my 500, but I didn't really see any advantage.

Also since there's no suspension on these karts there really is no roll center, its really probably an instant center. But me being a stock car guy, I'm going to still call it a roll center hahaha. Just like I'm going to call these engines, motors!

USRA B mod you have basically 3 choices. Standard, Concept, and the 602 Crate. The 602 is the cheapest, most reliable, and easiest to maintain motor choice I would say. I had the Standard option in the car when I bought it which allows us to turn 7200. It's also one of the reason's I bought the car. Lately I've seen some of these B mod engine builds over $13,000.

Oh yeah, I loved that Legacy Chassis, It always ran pretty good. I am happy to share any info on it if I can remember it. I haven't ran that kart in a couple years, I might still have some setup sheets around. But what are you needing to know?

How you made it roll so good and any set ups would be awesome we run low bite tracks

@@codythunberg614 Have you watched my How I tune My Kart at the Track Video? I think I go over a lot of it there. But to get it to roll through the center is basically getting the balance right on the kart. I know my driving style and what I want. Then I know what to change on it to get it to drive that way. There's really no secrets/ tricks to any of this stuff. But my Rear was usually 54% Left 56% and cross58- 60%, 60% being my baseline. Low Bite tracks I usually raise my rear % a little and raise my weight higher and to the left. I also ran soft tires around 45 on the duro. You can raise the rear tire stagger to help the kart roll through the center too. But I usually find I keep the standard 1.5" on the front and 3/4 -1" on the rear. I adjust handling more with tire pressure. Just make your adjustments in the order of Entry 1st. Center 2nd, Exit 3rd. That will help you not dial yourself out. I hope that helps!

Thank you so much! Yeah I'm glad I was able to add a few of the bars in mine. Especially the one on the left there.

Yeah, that kind of stuff can be bad real quick. I'm glad I was able to take the car in and go through it for sure. And get it fixed!

I am about 180 lbs. This kart with me in race ready was 535. 110lbs over the weight of 425. So yeah you are correct. I also had the heavy Polaris Predator engine. So I could only get my LS weight up to 49% without adding even more weight. Not the best setup. Yeah smaller kids have an advantage in these things for sure lol!

nice thanks bud 🙏 keep on racing hard and trying you got my support . My goal is to win at least one race this year in Pennsylvania In Pennsylvania wings Open outlaw karts at 225 pounds and 6'1 I got a new ske outlaw open with a 86 cr500 and a QRC with a 450f so I got options haha . My back might be broke from working for them though so we will see 😂

@@cupwalker24.7 Well thank you and good luck to you! Sounds like you have a good program together with great engines and chassis's. I bet you'll see victory lane sooner that later. And I understand the broken back hahaha!

I want to say they are going for $4,500??? ROK bought them out and have them now. Eric is still building them though. Pretty much the exact same karts. But I'm not 100% sure on ROK's current price.

Thank you so much! I got some new videos coming out soon. Also hopefully we'll be racing soon. I'm excited to see if I can get this old car to run the way I want. This new motor should be awesome!

I remember 25 years ago when shocks were the most important thing. Then pull bar stack, then spring indexing, then 0 indexing. Then shocks again hahaha. Once upon a time I remember hearing that tires were the most important thing. Personally I'm a firm believer in getting your car to do what you or the driver needs the most. Experiment and keep what you like and get rid of anything you don't. I'm also glad we are not stacking springs in these modifieds like the late models. I'm not sure why they let them do that. One spring one shock per wheel would help keep some of the cost down that are already out of control. Just my opinion anyways. Pre- loads are easy, you don't need a spring smasher in the trailer to figure it out every night. It's really just getting the rate creep that you want in a spring.

Mine is the 2A.