วีดีโอ

Hi, thanks for reaching out. I found the coupling on eBay. Here's a link to point you in the right direction. www.ebay.com.au/itm/202155473125?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=d7IaRZrzQfe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=JgwR_gxRSuy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@projectadventureranger1691 i have one like tht...did you put your key slot in?

@@minskmade From memory it's a straight keyway on both shafts. As i didn't have a keyway broach set at the time, the coupling keyways were marked out and made using a hand file. Since then, I now have keyway broaches!

@@projectadventureranger1691 oh my...i have a set of broaches...but have never broached...it is not time :) thank you

Hi Michael and thanks for reaching out. Here's the final code that I used noting the use of individual pull-up resistors in the circuit. Some arduino boards have inbuilt resistors that could also be utilised. Hope this helps in your build. // define pins // 1-empty- // 2-empty // 3-Dir+ // 4- Led raise // 5-Pulsepin // 6-Led lower // 8- swfor // 9-swrev // 10-Lim1 // 11-Lim2 int pulsepin = 5; int dirpin = 3; int swfor = 8; int swrev = 9; int Forward; int Reverse; int Forwardstop; int Reversestop; int Lim2 = 11; int Lim1 = 10; int Ledraise = 4; int Ledlower = 6; void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: pinMode(pulsepin, OUTPUT); pinMode(dirpin, OUTPUT); pinMode(swfor, INPUT); pinMode(swrev, INPUT); pinMode(Lim1, INPUT); pinMode(Lim2, INPUT); pinMode(Ledraise,OUTPUT); pinMode(Ledlower, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: //Gather information Forward = digitalRead(swfor); Reverse = digitalRead(swrev); Forwardstop = digitalRead(Lim1); Reversestop = digitalRead(Lim2); if (Forward == 0 && Reverse == 1 && Forwardstop == LOW) { // read the sensor value: int sensorReading = analogRead(A0); // map it to a range from 0 to 100: int motorSpeed = map(sensorReading, 0, 1023, 0, 100); digitalWrite(dirpin, HIGH); digitalWrite(pulsepin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(motorSpeed); digitalWrite(pulsepin, LOW); Forward = digitalRead(swfor); Reverse = digitalRead(swrev); Forwardstop = digitalRead(Lim1); Reversestop = digitalRead(Lim2); digitalWrite(Ledraise, HIGH); } else if (Reverse == 0 && Forward == 1 && Reversestop == LOW) { // read the sensor value: int sensorReading = analogRead(A0); // map it to a range from 0 to 100: int motorSpeed = map(sensorReading, 0, 1023, 0, 100); digitalWrite(dirpin, LOW); digitalWrite(pulsepin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(motorSpeed); digitalWrite(pulsepin, LOW); Forward = digitalRead(swfor); Reverse = digitalRead(swrev); Forwardstop = digitalRead(Lim1); Reversestop = digitalRead(Lim2); digitalWrite(Ledlower, HIGH); } else { //turn off LED lights digitalWrite(Ledraise, LOW); digitalWrite(Ledlower, LOW); } }

@@projectadventureranger1691 Thank you so much. I really apprecite it. Hope to wire it up on the bench this week. Is the schematic in your video still good to go. Sorry. I am a novice when it comes to Arduino but willing to learn

@@michaelfluck4720 Arduino can be daunting at first but luckily, there's plenty of help on TH-cam . The revised schematic is slightly different having removed the three-way switch and installing two momentary switches into pins 8 and 9 (instead of pins 5 and 6). Note the updated comments regarding the 10k pull up resistors when wiring the switches. Basically, when you push the button the 5v goes directly to ground giving a low (zero) reading, at all other times the 5v supply also feeds through the 10k resistor giving a high reading to the arduino via pins 8 or 9. As per the code, when the arduino reads low on the forward switch, low on forward limit switch and high on the reverse switch; current is supplied to the motor driver. LEDs were also installed to indicate direction.

Hi Braap Tv, thanks for the question. My grill still had the two lower bolt holes ( see 2m:46 sec) that I could use to hold it in place. All up there's four bolts to use for my particular model. Also note that as the bar is quite streamlined , ensure the bar is centered on the chassis with plenty of clearance from the guards. Otherwise you end up chasing a ghost rattle in the frond end.

Thanks for the comment and glad it's going to help with your install!

Thanks and it's an awesome product!

Hi Ross, the Air On Board air compressor system is still going strong with only a fitting on the air receiver requiring a nip up. Apart from that it's been a reliable system with plenty of air available whenever it's needed. Thanks for the prompt and I should do a review now it's been installed for awhile. Good luck with your shopping and install!

@@projectadventureranger1691 thanks mate, a review vid would be great. Can I ask the main use you have for it? (I.e. pumping up tyres? (If so which size)) and how long it roughly takes to pump them up? Also do you think the airtank makes a big difference? Cheers Ross

@@Lost_Twice_Over The 6 litre receiver is very handy for running the set of train horns that I have underneath the vehicle (on a separate switch circuit of course) which is ideal for wandering animals and pedestrians. The system has not been used a great deal in anger however, I run 265/60R18 tyres and the air compressor system with a 6 litre tank will take around 3m45secs to pump the tyre up to 32psi from a near flat tyre (5psi). A tyre inflator, blow down nozzle and 6m of airline is in the tool tub just in case it's required. I have found that the supplied quick disconnect coupling is a bit average and didn't take too long to rust out. As per the video use a suitable liquid thread sealant on all your joints.