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thetubeschannel
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2011
Make a Compost Bin with Pallets.
This is an easy and effective way to build a compost bin set up for beginners and compost users alike. Covered here are the basics of compost and it's uses and examples of compost bins made with pallets and "vermeil" compost using food scraps. Hope you enjoy. Questions and comments welcomed.
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Mower Solenoid won't send 12 volts to starter
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This video shows a Cub Cadet LT1018 Riding Mower where the solenoid won't send 12 volts to the starter to turn over the engine. From the battery positive cable to the solenoid it will read 12 volts when the key switch is off. Then when the key switch is turned to Run position voltage at the solenoid hot end from battery reads 2.8 volts and NOT the 12 volts it's suppose to. I don't know what the...
Thanks you
See if the starter spins on its own
yeah I agree with you, test the starter, no sure if I did was more concerned why I wasn't getting 12V to the starter to begin with. thanks - you are correct.
Mine is doing the same thing but when I turn it over it keeps turning over even with key switch off. The starter Solenoid is new the starter is new.. everything hooked up correctly. I cleaned all connectors. Adjusted valves and gave it a oil change and new gas. I tested starter and stater solenoid and key switch all came back good. Could a bad camshaft cause it to Seize and make it continue to try to start? It was doing this then I charged the battery and left the charger on it while I start it up. It started then tried it another day and it seized and burnt out the starter smoke everywhere.. 😅 I’ll change red wire and ground wire but if you got any idea lemme know…
I had this exact same issue a good few years ago with a different mower - and my starter also fried. And one way to know is - take off the mower shroud (cover) so you can see when the start gear goes up to turn the flywheel and then sits back down and stops spinning. If you do this and the starter gear did NOT return to the down position but instead stays spinning with the flywheel. BUT - how does it continue to get power.. bypass the solenoid and make direct contact with the starter wire, if it stops spinning when you unconnect then its the solenoid. My memory on this is foggy but I also could not disengage. Might also be the key switch not disengaging. (videos on how to test a key switch). Wish I could help more but my memory is foggy on it again. I know, that problem is a bit of a hassle. You'll get it. If the solenoid tested good on and off then maybe the key switch.
Good info! I will be addressing similar issue on my cub cadet 1517. Going to start with solenoid.. does nothing at all when key is turned.
Would enjoy hearing your follow up. Check for 12v at battery, at solenoid and at starter. Then safety switches... good luck ✌👍
😊0 😊.. 0.0
I replaced the solenoid and it still don’t work
So I'm assuming you have a good battery with at least 12.5 volts. Test the safety switches- seat, break, and blade with a multimeter or jump the switches with a short wire to disable them. turn key, if nothing then check for 12V from the battery to the solenoid battery side, should have 12 volts. if no click check the key switch for continuity with the multimeter. One probe on the B (for battery the other on the S (for starter) the switch should have continuity or beep. If still no click test the soleniod shown in other videos. A good battery and good solenoid should click tested on a bench. If not the it's a safety switch or bad wire.. maybe. Hope that helps.
@@thetubeschannel appreciate the help life saver
Change that red cable out
Never thought that was the problem. But it was. Ty
Glad you found the cause. And thanks for going through the safeties, because I was pulling my hair out until I realized the PTO was engaged... Back to the original problem of charging.
PTO.. aha.. how dare it betray you 🙂 yeah 20 years in to repairing small engine tools and still learning. Can't believe how many small tools I have picked up from people trashing them to find it was just a dirty carb. Have had about 6 riders now and a strong 20-22hp motor would be priority if i had to look for a new rider. And luckily finally got my hands on a zero turn. Runs great and a second cubby. 1045. Also with a strong engine. Also learned. The less problems one comes with. The less problems to deal with. Guess that applies to everything. 👍
this is an easy way to fix mower that just clicks no start hat click tells you allis ok from switch to solenoid then use a pair of pliers and short 2 big bolts on solenoid if battery is good this will spin starter if it spins replace solenoid 2min test to locate tbl. alway get same type solenoid so wireing and mounting holes lineupthrow old solenoid away no good for any thing
Thanks for sharing your issue here. I am having issues with only getting 6 volts to the starter. I got a new battery (Needed one anyway), and I put a new solenoid on it as well since it has been awhile. I checked the positive wire from battery to the solenoid like you but I do not have much resistance there so it is good. I measured the volts at the solenoid and it is 12v. I measure the volts from the solenoid to the starter, and it is 12v but when I hook up the starter to the red wire from the solenoid, it only reads 6V. I am wondering if I have a bad ground or bad wire from the solenoid to the starter.
Yeah, I can only say, yes scrape to metal for ground wire then check resistance of every positive wire. Now my mower is slow to turn over and it might be a dying starter. Guess only so many components it could be. Sounds like you're almost there 👍
Battery operated Dreml !!!?? (2 Years later) Wow, things are changing. My CC XT-1 has the battery under the seat and the solenoid under the battery. A real pain in the seat. I'll be checking the wiring tomorrow but it looks new as the day I bought this machine.
it maybe probable that the ignition coil could have gone bad. lemme know if that was it .
Thanks, it was the wire had deteriorated inside making no contact.. replaced it and it worked. 🙂
It was corrosion inside the positive wire, change it and it made contact.
PROBLEM SOLVED - the problem was that the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid was corroded inside, I replaced it with new wire and it started right up. The mistake I made was in looking for a bad wire or component. I was checking for continuity - that's not enough - you also have to check for resistance in Ohms as a normal good wire should have as close to zero resistance as possible. When I finally did check resistance in that wire it read 18.9 Ohms of resistance where it should have read about 0.02 .. So although the wire still gave connection (continuity) it was not letting enough current through to come close to the 12 volts needed to even pass through the solenoid or hence to the starter. The resistance was jumping all over the place on that wire that corroded inside it's coating. So check each wire for resistance - not just ohms. - hope that helps.
What gauge wire did you use to replace the cable? I am thinking i have the same problem
Great video:) Thanks. You mean "Check each wire for resistance (Ohms), not just continuity".
@@LilPhantom31 pardon the late reply. Used I believe 4 gauge but thinner is fine also. Copper strands better than solid so I've been told.
@@mcccalle true. Think I did. But very true, thanks
the video ended before I finished but like I said, after a first click the wire to the solenoid from the battery - reads 2.8 at the solenoid while the battery reads 12.8 volts. so where is the voltage drop from. I guess I will try a new hot lead from positive to solenoid but the old one reads no resistance. Any ideas anyone ? much appreciated.