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(Not first playthrough) Just cheesed this guy before killing either godskins or maliketh by going around the godskin arena to the balcony area and lobbing poison pots, if he aggrod (the pot hit him directly rather than next to) i just used the protection bubble perfume. Just saw him from the balcony and couldn't resist.

The easiest way I found was using poison mist. First cast "unseen form" *and* "assassins gambit". This allows you to sneak past him. Then get behind him and cast poison mist until he dies.

The house I bought in March has a Ecobee smart thermostat. Yesterday the app logged me out on my smartphone and my tablet. Yesterday after buying minimum maximum temperature and humidity sensors on Amazon and placing them around the house I noticed the humidity reading on the thermostat is not calibrated properly. I had factory data reset the thermostat after moving in. I am thinking about changing to a Honeywell 9000 Smart Thermostat. I other houses I always had Honeywell thermostats with no issues. They have a long record of thermostat that are quality built.

beat maliketh on my 3rd try but this dude took ages. fuck DTS

Whoever designed this boss and decided to put it twice in the game should be fired immediately

Hi Scot, what if the eco mode is not turned on what indicator lights are on? Is it still blinking green inverter light + steady amber bypass light?

If you fight this guy straight up, it is absolutely one of the hardest fights in the game. The Sentinel is pretty broken.

I always cheese this dude, he is useless and is here to just block the access to the (imo) best boss in Elden ring. I have no empathy against this b*tch

Considering investing in a similar rig using the G2 Micro Studio. Do you have any raw 3D footage from these cameras you'd be willing to share?

I liked very much

Mine was definitely component failure, lost F2 and at least one mov. Was surprised to find this video which helped with the repair. Thanks for posting it.

Bro your fly was open. 🪰

Buying an old surge suppressor - wouldn't one be worried about how much useful life is left in the MOVs as they are sacrificial?

Remarkable.

Still use it lol

Sir How do I get the beeps to stop?

Thanks, very helpful! I particularly love the ending 😂

Thanku sir

6:32 What is this thing called, and do you know how to remove it? I'm trying to replace the stock cable. Many thanks.

My USB version just failed

This didnt age well.

Would it be more or less expensive to coat it with whatever (acrylics?) people coat with before submerging electronics for cooling?

So you just cut the red wire?

A server someone else controls.

You just wasted 5:52 of my life with you useless rant

Costco sold a Venstar thermostat rebranded as "firstalert." The web service stopped displaying usage graphs after 2 years. 1 year after that, it stopped displaying the external temp sensor. Then the settings went wonky. The most recent app update was 3 years ago, and most of these features broke with that update. Now the whole service is barely functional. To my knowleddge, the Venstar service still works fine.

I can't find allmax aaa recharge. found the allmax amazon store but none of these, same fuji. Also do you have a download of the ss or just yt images> thx these good ones are HARD to find & I search pretty good.

Can't find ss only links to yt videos

Fishpaper

nice made my life a little easyer

I have not had any problem for 7 years. Not sure the need for this video!

I would have put a piece of flexible foam underneath that small board.

Here for the ending haha -- aced it!

Check the internal resistance after a year of use. Very high so they won't charge up to that mAh.

I love Internet of Things stuff, and I've happily had an Ecobee for 4 years or something. But this exact problem of the company server going out of business has happened to me with a smart alarm clock, and Iris, and Lightify. All 3 each independently went out of business, making the physical devices I bought completely unusable, except as possible toys for DIY hackers.

omg this is so helpful! thank you!

thats how i feel on EBL 2800mah AA batteries. I routinely get about 2500mah out of them. Some would run and complain but then even for the price its still a great deal.

Whats the draw rate on the tester that you used for testing the batteries? Do they discharge to zero volts or specific volts?

Strange video to say the least!

Every time a thunderstorm rolls through I lose connection to the ecobee server and cannot get it back. I can reboot my home server remotely. I get back smart plugs and cameras but not the ecobee. Ecobee support say go and unplug the thermostat and start from scratch. But, if I'm traveling, it's not a solution. Frustrated.

Capton tape is the material you'd want between the PCB's.

Is the any shematic on this device? Thanc you

TLDR.... The number one thing that sets industrial equipment apart, are various methods of gluing and securing the components to themselves and to the board. So that any vibrations or shock dont effect the leads and solder joints. Things like silicone caulking, epoxy, various potting compounds/rubberized glues, and even zip ties). Here’s a longer version… I have a lab and I am self-employed… Doing component level board repair on industrial machines, test gear, And various equipment for a wide range of manufacturing and industrial clients. There are a few major differences I see in “industrial grade“ equipment....that sets it apart from consumer level stuff…… In this modern day of hi Tech , Inexpensive, and affordable parts/ manufacturing… Most consumer level electronics (that are you UL listed and meet proper safety ratings) Have almost the same quality components as high-end industrial stuff. The main difference are a few details added to industrial gear that makes it much more rugged. The number one thing is proper adhesive… In the industry it’s called “silastic“ which is a trademark term for silicone caulking. You can get the exact same stuff at the hardware store, about five dollars for a huge tube…you just have to be sure and find the silicone caulk that is “ neutral curing”. That means It doesn’t have the vinegar smell like most silicone... therefore it has no acids or curing compound that can be corrosive. Because regular silicone caulking can actually cause corrosion and eventually eat the copper trace is completely off the circuitboard. This stuff is so important and ubiquitous in manufacturing, that most electronics assembly lines have pressurized hose is hanging from the ceiling over each workstation… Where are the employee can quickly grab a handheld caulk gun.... and quickly security components they are responsible for. the silicone adhesive is pumped all over the factories to each assembly station. They use the stuff by the ton, and pump it all over the facility for different board assembly lines. Even the most cheap consumer grade stuff… It’s been inspected and safety related whatsoever… Good chance it’s got some type of adhesive for other measures taken inside to aid in vibration resistance. Just like those large chokes in your device, anything that can move around due to vibration or abuse. If it protrudes from the board even just a little bit… go either use the silastic glue, to secure it to the board or to another component nearby… Most boards these days have a “conformal coating“ which covers the entire board in a thin coat of rubberized adhesive… Or sometimes it’s not rubberized and they just use a regular two-part epoxy which becomes as hard as glass.. Whether it’s surface mount, through hole, or a mixture of both… the Coating is used to mitigate moisture problems… and vibration. And of course it also helps with electrical isolation. Because all of the traces in contacts are covered. It’s basically a thin coating that goes over the entire board. Like a cocoon. You can Google it to see photos, but she might not even be able to tell from pictures. If you want to see it in person… Take two or three minutes and pull the circuitboard out of your washer or dryer. Guarantee that things got a thick conformal coating. it’s thick enough to completely cover most smd components which helps vibration, and considering it’s about a 16th of an inch thick or thicker… It will flow its way up under larger components like electrolytic capacitors, helping to secure them to the board and stop vibration.. Regarding the most circuit boards… Even they are taken well care of and don’t get abused… something as simple as a coffee maker or a television that’s always stationary… there are still vibrations and thermal expansion and contraction due to normal operation. So the coatings and adhesive’s are absolutely necessary in most instances. Industrial equipment in particular, sees constant Vibration for days at a time. This causes “Work hardening“ of the solder and PCB traces. So if proper adhesives like silicone and conformal are used… The vibrations can’t get into the leads and joints. Another big difference, even if you open up cheaper consumers boxes…You will notice higher temperature rated capacitors… Usually 105° C instead of 85° C… they still go bad eventually… But they degrade a lot slower. Sorry I didn’t mean to keep rambling. One piece of advice I’ll offer, check out the t12 soldering stations made by ksger! For about $50 you can pick one up from bangood and at other sites, that has an oled display, quick and easy swappable tips, and I highly suggest getting the model that comes with the aluminum handpiece. It’s so well balanced and feels great. I’ve got extremely expensive jbc stations and others… And I swear to God I use my two KSGER t12 stations more than any other! They are absolutely incredible for the price! There’s a growing trend of cheap tools and test equipment, made for diagnosing and repairing electronics. There’s always been a ton of gear on the market… But over the last five years the quality has gotten incredible! I have a lot of calibrated professional test gear that I’m required to use on certain jobs for a big clients with equipment that has to maintain safety ratings and calibration… but that’s only about 20% of the time… The other 80% of the time I’m using my “back up gear“. Four or five years ago I started buying some of the nicer looking and well-designed test gear and repair tools coming from China. And I have been absolutely blown away at the quality and consistency of the designs. Many of the brands who sell hi end professional test equipment, Have their gear made in china, To their exact specifications. Brands like keysight, Tektronix, Keithley, siglent,, Rigol.... some of those brands make extremely nice and expensive equipment. But a decent entry-level benchtop multimeter might cost $1500. So there’s a large cost barrier to folks who want to enter this as a hobby or if they’re just starting out professionally. So there are many companies, offering the stuff 10 to 20 times cheaper… While maintaining about 75% quality! And The main difference is quality control, Consistency, and customer support long-term with a warranty, (and maybe a few cut corners). But when you’re needing an oscilloscope or bench top multimeter… you can find dozens of offerings ranging from $50-$400. And each one of them is very usable, with thousands of other hobbyists and professionals who have purchased them, and shared their experience, Advice, calibration/upgrade methods online. In countless blogs, forums, and TH-cam channels. And if you look to any of the high-end professional companies for the same device… You’re looking at at least $3000 for the lowest end models. Things like oscilloscopes, benchtop multimeters, LCR meters, signal generator, soldering equipment, handheld multimeters, frequency counters, isolation transformers, variable AC power sources, and pretty much any type of test or repair equipment you could ask for. So I started buying cheaper stuff just because I was interested, and because sometimes I’m working on something that’s sketchy, Or high-powered… I don’t want to fry one of my nice pieces of gear. And I have been amazed how it holds up to my professional calibrated and certified equipment. Don’t get me wrong… I’m not trading any of my nice scopes or 8.5 digit benchtop meters. But if you’re on a budget, or just want to add some pieces of gear to your lab…… The budget equipment is a lot of fun and extremely well-made for the price. You might have to do quality-control for them… and you might need to swap some of the cheap electrolytic caps for nice brand-name models… 😂 But in this day and age where everything is returnable, or you can just open an eBay case… You’re protected either way. And there’s a huge community of hobbyists and professionals alike that have experience with each piece of gear. And there’s a large community to give advice and help. I enjoyed your video, and I hope you make some more content. Especially electrical repairs and diagnostic stuff.

Great video. Interesting how so many failures are not component-related, but rather simple solder joint failures. You really need to buy yourself a bench-mount PCB vise which will hold the PCB horizontally or any other angle required. I've used one for 45+ years, first on the job, and ever since at home. Wonderful tool, pays for itself many times over. Mine clamps onto the bench edge, others (e.g. Panavise) have a suction clamp or just a heavy weighted base to keep them in place.

Don’t use an escalator. You never know when it’s going to just become… stairs.

Im literally dying at how you managed to pull that off so nonchalantly. Referring to 17:28 and how only the girl noticed this slight of hand. 😂😂😂 Good one hahaha

The solution is HomeKit. Once you set it up through HomeKit you can control it when the Internet is off through HomeKit.

I have lost the use of three WiFi cams from two different makers because they shut down their cloud access or access by that particular cam to their cloud. So this is real.

i heard that these ebl aaa batteries don't fit some products because they're a it too long than normal aaa.

cheers for the upload. AAA recharchables ain't worth bothering for me. i tossed most of my devices taking AAA and use disposables for those i couldn't replace. now EBL is another league.. if you let these sit for a while you'll see the self discharge is scary. don't look any further than eneloops my mates