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@@nateb1061 for the thick one that bolts to the head is 6EG21, for the hood ground strap it's 15179982

@ thank you! 🙏🏼

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind thank you so much! This ground strap got lost during a rebuild along with the bolt. Do you know the bolt size too?

@@writtenpieceopaper1Bolt size is a 15mm - if I need a bolt, I go to the scrapyard and pull one from the same spot on a similar motor

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind this! Thank you for the idea.

@@PatalJunior Absolutely, some people just need to stay away from wires. A lot of it was going on in the 90-00's when people were exeriencing with sound and security systems, and fog light installations 🤭

It's a challenging spot - I used the ratchet to crack it loose, then the ratchet wrench the pull the rest out

@mark.mmxxiv I see. Is there a more detailed video on how to do that? I need to get to it, but it can't. No matter what any tips, maybe

@ it was a really tight spot, it took time and this video is the only solution I could come up with - unless of course you have someone with smaller hands to help out. I couldn't fit the phone back there when recording, and I used a milk crate to stand on, I think I even kneeled on the fenders to reach deep in there. You could try the boxed end of a normal wrench to crack it loose, then go at it with the ratchet wrench if you can't get the socket back in there.

@@ortegae29 On mine the bolt at the back of the head for the ground strap was a 15mm

And the nut?

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind do you know the nut size?

@@ortegae29 For mine, the bolt for the stud on the firewall was a 10mm. Anytime I'm missing nuts and bolts on my vehicle, it can be complicated trying to figure out sizes and tread patterns, I just go to the scrappers and pull it from a vehicle similar to what I'm working on.

@@autumnjeserich2689 it bolts to the back of the cylinder head

@@mitchellmontesano8769 it's always best to bolt it in the same spot, but if you find another spot on the back of the head to bolt the ground, you could try that - but nowhere near the manifold, you might get ground noise. I know it's a tough spot, a helper with smaller hands might be best

I totally agree, mind you I needed two hands and had limited options to place the cellphone. One end bolts to the firewall on the driver's side, the other end attaches to the back of the head near the intake on the driver's side. If I recall, it was a 14mm bolt. I used both a short socket and a ratchet wrench to successfully take it out. To install it, I had to ziptie the wires together to help with bolting it back on. If you have a helper with small hands, that would also help, it's tight back there.

theres no way your asking how mf find the correct size socket and unscrew it and then do it backwards with the new parts idiot

This video is a from a Cobalt SS Supercharged

if you mean for the braking line, yes just the one

The camera didn't fit back there when recording. It bolts to the back of the cylinder head. If the wire is broken, you should feel the nub at the back, if it's not, follow the wire. It's a darn tough spot to get your hands into, and it will take a lot of patience to successfully complete the job.

It should be bolted to the back of the cylinder head. Could use a mirror to see if you can locate where the strap is bolted to on the Sonoma if you can't see it.

This links to the Mazda parts system for the sliding door parts list. Hope that helps. www.realmazdaparts.com/v-2014-mazda-5--sport--2-5l-l4-gas/body--door-hardware

The issue we had is opposite, in that it wouldn’t close. If your door is jammed shut, or won’t unlock, you might find a way to take the panel off from inside and get to the mechanism, or use a flathead in the door jam from inside to try and pry it to open while someone pulls on the handle from the outside. Also, you might try and lubricate the crap out of the door jam from inside, if it’s the door jam then it should open from there. Either way, it could be a two man job, one pulling the handle on the outside, while the other is working the door jam inside. Good luck

Part no.6EG21 - the cable is 21" long

I have a body lift so I just went through the wheel well but the a curve wrenches work from the top.

I usually take a trip to the wreckers with a list of odds and ends and pull them nuts and bolts from similar vehicles. I find it easier than trying to match it up at the hardware store.

what's the ground to the hood for?

Some of those lifters get stuck (suction) - grabbing them was a little difficult because of oil. A rag on the lifter to grab them helped - some needed a little twist and lift as well. Hopefully the rest goes well for you.

Splines on the bearing hubs are different from the G5 to the Cobalt SS w/Brembos. Even if it's the G5 GT w/FE3 suspension, there may be some interchangeable parts, however you'd still have an issue with the tranny having different axles - Cobalt SS Turbo has the F35 trans. That said, it all depends how much you're willing to throw at it - i'm reading up to $4k on a swap? Bearing hubs Axles Spindles Struts possibly I would definitely do more research before buying parts. Good luck!

Yes, should even be easier

I recall the wiring schematics being nearly identical - wiring colors should be the same

Yes they are

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind appreciate it bro

That's the tube for the passenger side e-brake cable. I know salt builds up and hardens in that area. If there liquid around there, it's either your moonroof is leaking (if you have one), or water's coming in from somewhere and mixing with it. If it's leaking down from the moonroof, it's time to unclog the drain tubes, which the drain flaps are under the front fender wells and can be accessed just by turning the wheels outward for each side.

Test if the location grounds with a test light or meter, if so, then it should work.

It was a windy day, and my phone was not fully functional. I hope the video demonstrated enough to help you out. Cheers!

That’s the only thing that I could figure out to get the bolt back on - I also had to tie the ground to the bolt as it kept slipping off - it’s definitely a difficult spot.

Flexhead box wrench did the trick for me, oh and i zip tied electric wire harness to have room.

I agree - It’s “carbon fibre” dash trim set - you can find them online

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind ok thanks!

Could it be the shims that connect the bumper skin and fender together? Not sure which brackets without a photo.

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind how do I add photo here

My brake lines on the Avalanche were rotted at the abs control module, I had to replace them - I don’t know of any ground issues causing brake failure, however, if anyone does, they are free to chime in.

Hi, the hood ground strap provides a better ground for radio-frequency (RF) signals.

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind and what issues does the other ground strap causes? because my cluster lights would dim sometimes at night and my truck dies if i dont drive it for a while

@madwestboy have you checked your battery, possibly a loose cable or it could be weak? A vehicle sitting too long without starting it once and awhile could kill it. Charging the battery could help if it isn’t too old. I normally start a sitting vehicle once a week, and take it around the block. Another thing is that if you know you wont use the vehicle for awhile, pull the battery out and store it indoors if possible.

@@TMEx_GearstoGrind my battery is brand new and my mechanic thinks something is drawing power from the battery while the truck is off. This is in my 05 Denali, I have an 07 Denali but don't drive it because of a bad head gasket. Even tho I haven't driven the 07 in months it cranks up with no problem

@@madwestboy With a multimeter, you can check for parasitic battery drain. In my Iroc, it was the power antenna. I found this video helpful th-cam.com/video/zdIKNnwEjIs/w-d-xo.html to test parasitic battery drain. You could also check the ground straps connected to the frame under the driver’s side behind the front tire by the door - mine were rusted on the Avalanche, so I did some preventative maintenance and cleaned them up. There’s also a ground strap behind the driver’s side cylinder head, which connects to the firewall, that’s the fat one that located near the hood ground strap.

They’re 18’s - I’ve seen however a set of Pontiac G6 rims on a Cobalt Turbo SS - which of course has Brembos

I have the factory Brembos on my SS and 'steelie' 16" wheels won't clear. I had to buy a normal set of 17" wheels for my winter set.

It was a windy day - I’ll edit the audio once I get a new video editing program.

I recorded it with my cell phone. It’s a tight spot to get into behind the engine. I used the ratchet with a short socket to crack the bolt at the back, then used a ratchet wrench to take it out. To put it back it in I placed the wires on the bolt and carefully treaded the bolt back in place, then used the wrench to tighten the bolt - once the bolt was on, I used the ratchet with the short socket to lock it into place. Good luck!

Based on my research, I’ll be replacing the stepper motor located in the speedometer cluster, as my speedometer is currently not working. I replaced both of grounds that you mentioned - the one behind the intake is the engine ground strap, and the one that connects to the hood is for radio ground signal. The first thing I did was replace the speedometer sensor, but that did not get the speedometer to work. The speed sensor is easier and cheaper to replace, but these vehicles are notorious for electronic issues, including the speedometer, and the usual fix is the stepper motor. I’ll post a video on that once I can get to it. I found this video on replacing the stepper motor - good luck, keep me posted - cheers! th-cam.com/video/mFApzUn5UZA/w-d-xo.html

I just bought a nice '04 Z71 Suburban which the speedometer didn't work. Just needed dash cluster rebuilt same as my Impala years ago when gas gage went erractic. Nothing unusual. Now I'm cleaning all the grounds. After learning about the small, black/white stripe ground wire attaching to back of pass. head I felt for it back there. Seemed ok but next time I went to start dash gages were goofy and it wouldn't crank over. Headlights were bright. Didn't touch anything and next day it started fine. I probably disrupted a bad connection but will extend it to firewall ground bolt next to the hood ground strap that is broke off. All grounds must be grounded as shown in this great video.

That sucks man - hopefully the rest of it wont be so bad. 😎 I took my time when I did mine, albeit I cussed through most of it 🤣

It bolts to the back of the engine block - there are other ground wires bolted there. So when you find the bolt with ground wires bolted in, which is near the center of the block by the firewall, closer to the driver’s side, that’s where it bolts in. It’s a 15-16mm bolt. Based on what I went through, the best way you get at it is with a ratchet wrench - it’ll be very tight to get a socket back there.

The car was an ‘06, and I believe the sensor is in the seat. The battery was disconnected when I unplugged everything. If the sensor light is on, you can either get an air bag scanner and reset the air bag sensors, or have the dealer recalibrate them afterward.

It was windy out that day, and my cell phone was on the fritz. I might revised the audio once I get a new video studio program. My hands are tied at the moment.

Stfu. He doesn't owe you anything.

Thought it was my hearing 😂

@@TMEx_GearstoGrindwhat size bolt was the strap attached to the motor?

@ 15mm I believe

Check the starter, look for a corroded starter wire cable, or a blown fuse. If all is good, then I would check the ignition switch.

10mm

​@@TMEx_GearstoGrindis there 2 grounds on that same bolt?

You might have access by removing the cowl panel. I found a video that could help you remove it. th-cam.com/video/s0b6oqTkFNY/w-d-xo.html

I replaced them before selling it- they were a little rough and the pins were seized. I just picked up a “new” one. Blown motor, more Cobalt SS Turbo vids to come, stay tuned!