- 37
- 146 839
Evan Wisheropp
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2013
NEW Crag! The Pocket Walls, Moab, UT
So many of us have stared up at these walls, just outside of Moab, UT. Are they climbable? With the pockets take gear? Would the blank sections be too steep? We had to find out for ourselves, and we could not be more pleasantly surprised! So far we have established eight routes and 15 pitches, with more on the way. Stick around to the end to enjoy watching these incredible climbing experiences.
มุมมอง: 2 704
วีดีโอ
Redwood Burl Climbers Guide book signing - Arc'teryx!!!
มุมมอง 1839 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
I'm real honored to be given the opportunity to show off my guidebooks at the Arc'teryx store.
Trad Climbing First Ascent in Moab, UT
มุมมอง 29Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Tune in and watch a somewhat uncut video of the first ascent of "Lady Pants" 5.11-. I thought we'd try something different and add in some commentary text regarding my thought process during the climb. I hope you enjoy! There is an adjacent route, from which I was able to swing over and lead the last little bit of the climb to install a lead bolt and anchors. This enabled me to lower off and in...
Offwidth, Killer.
มุมมอง 2.4Kหลายเดือนก่อน
Tune in this Halloween and watch as this obsessive offwidth climber trains his friends in this spooky form of climbing, hoping to create the perfect offwidth partner.
Looking Glass Rock 5.4 -- Moab
มุมมอง 6042 หลายเดือนก่อน
I finally edited the first video I've filmed for this channel way back when. I hope you don't mind the shaky camera and enjoy watching my wife and aunt enjoy this wonderful three pitch climb.
Gnarly Moab OFFWIDTH - Exit Wound 5.12
มุมมอง 3.2K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
In part one, we saw Evan and Mary sending Pitch 2, "Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12-), in part two here Mary (@tradprincess) and Sam (@adventuresam) battle through the gnarly Pitch 4 offwidth roof.
King Salmon 5.12 - Promontory, CA
มุมมอง 9223 หลายเดือนก่อน
Another new ultra-classic line at Promontory. The route is long and pumpy, but with three good rests. Fellow locals asked for it to be well-bolted to make the line more comfortable and convenient, and so it is! With a good soft catch, skipping clips is actually a-ok on this one! Get out there an enjoy!!
Shiny bolts are OVERRATED! - Camoflauging climbing bolts
มุมมอง 7K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Not everyone is a great fan of bolts, and well it does make sense... Some walls sparkle in the sunlight with shiny bolts. Well, we see that and understand. With help from a grant from the Access Fund, we've been painting/camoflauging bolts to help them blend nicely into the rock. Often times, camoflauged bolts are nearly impossible to see, unless you are actively looking for them. This way, we ...
When Pigs Fly 5.11b - Promontory, CA
มุมมอง 6594 หลายเดือนก่อน
Here's a new route we just bolted right above the tide pools. It requires either a really good low tide or really flat seas (no swell is swell). The name is indicative to how often you'll be able to climb this wonderful route. I was excited to lead the route, so I placed temporary removable bolts (concrete screws). We missed low tide by a few hours, but it was just fine. I removed the temporary...
Climbing "Great White" 5.12b at Promontory
มุมมอง 1.3K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hey friends, here's a beta video of Great White at Promontory. Sorry for the low production value on this one, but locals hopping to get on the route should enjoy it.
Bolting a Sport Route with Titanium Glue-ins
มุมมอง 11K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
This has been a real tricky project to bolt. Lots of complications and road blocks, but I'm glad to finally be able to record part of the process of bolting with glue-ins is like. I've bolted and rebolted 105 routes with glue-ins, totaling 829 glue-ins, and gotten quite efficient, but still there are plenty of small efficiency errors. I've left them in to give a good glimpse of a real bolting m...
The Road To THE CLEAVER (5.13b) - Moab's Brutal New Offwidth
มุมมอง 28K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Road To THE CLEAVER (5.13b) - Moab's Brutal New Offwidth
"Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12a) - Epic New Spooky Offwidth w/ Trad Princess
มุมมอง 30K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
"Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12a) - Epic New Spooky Offwidth w/ Trad Princess
Offwidth Climbing Fanatic Teaches His Friends To Do Crack
มุมมอง 1.2K10 หลายเดือนก่อน
Offwidth Climbing Fanatic Teaches His Friends To Do Crack
"Prom Date" (5.12b/c) at Promontory, California
มุมมอง 5504 ปีที่แล้ว
"Prom Date" (5.12b/c) at Promontory, California
On the traverse I was thinking, "wow those movements are precise and in tune with the route."
This so awesome gonna love to try some of these climbs thank you for the development of new areas!!!!!!
Come to Red River Gorge to make content.
I'm concerned those gear placements in the pockets will erode and eventually become harder to place and less secure
lets do do a tower hmu... solid work!
So cool!! I’m super stoked to get out there and climb! Thanks for all the work you’ve put put into those climbs!!
The awkward zone is where i live every day.
Highlights for me gotta be "Pop that Booty" and the synthwave BigBro segments lmao
I come to this area often, thanks for throwing something fun up for the rest day
You bet! Most of the grades are super chill, so it's spot on for rest days!
One consideration would be placing expansion bolts in super soft entrada sandstone vs glue ins. The reason there are pockets in this rock is much of the cement holding the sand together has already leached out of the rock.
Ok, saw some glue ins. Most self promotion of a new crag I’ve ever seen!
Yes, one note is that the bolts are only going in the non-pocketed bands, since the pockets usually take gear. I would say it’s very common for people to make videos about new their routes. Perhaps a little different that it’s self filmed though, don’t see that too often, but I’m no pro
Most people want to keep their crags secret! Haha @@EdwardOak
So sick. Some of those shots were absolutely breathtaking, great storytelling as well!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Wow, thank you so much for these routes and for the video overview! My buddies and I will be out to try this crag ASAP
Get out there and send it!
Looks adventurous and wacky.
So what was the process of getting permission to bolt these crags? Did you contact local land management?
Curious about this as well. Are you from Moab or just random bolting new crags in our town?
First make sure it's public land that doesn't have bolting restrictions. Second make sure its a region where climbing and climbing anchors are socially accepted. Third, get the blessing from the local community. Fourth, make sure you follow the local ethics regarding ground-up, gear vs bolts, etc...
OMG I’m so stoked!! You’re so awesome I can’t wait to climb them with everyone!! Yay! Please put in more for us and continue to promote the area !
Nice! Stoked to check this new Crag out! Thanks for sharing!
You’re in for a treat! Perhaps a good rest day activity?
very good
Wow!! 😍
Would love to see a mountain project page for this crag (if you haven’t made one already)! Looks so sick
I've finally got the info written up, I should start getting them posted :)
This look sooooo cool. :) But I definitivly dont have the gear you climb this with. I have a single set from 0.3 to 4 in BD-sizes. And I definitly dont habe the money to buy multiples of all the big cams or bigbros. But hell that looks fun. :)))) Impressive work!
Crazy gear right? Maybe time to gather up some friends like at the Creek!
@@EvanWisheropp I guess thats the way to go! I mean there is also the issue of me living in the north of Germany and not wanting to fly (and also not having the money for that). :D But maybe one day I will make it to the US who knows Anyways, thx for the great content!
😮❤
I can’t help but smile when I think of The Pocket Walls! What an incredible adventure it was to help Evan, one of my best friends, establish this new climbing area! These ground-up first ascents were so cool! Every step of the journey was rewarding-from the planning and scouting to venturing into the unknown, often by headlamp. Late nights, when the moon was just a sliver, the vehicle head lights shimmer on the walls, like sunlight on a tropical reef. Magical. The climbing itself is fantastic! Challenging gear placements, blank friction slabs, balancing on micro-mantels, and bomber jugs-you name it, The Pocket Walls will keep you engaged and stoked from start to finish. And that video? Phenomenal! Evan, I can’t thank you enough for all the time and effort you put into editing that footage. You absolutely nailed it. Watching it back, I feel like I’m there climbing it all over again! I'm looking forward to our return after the snow season! I just can't get enough of these pockets!
I just cannot wait to be back. So fun, so silly, so different.
Such a beautiful and unique place! Absolutely gorgeous video friend!
Super Rad!
This is incredible!! I’m so excited to go back to Moab to climb these routes!!! Great job, Evan & Matt! Thanks for all of the hard work! 🥳
I agree!!
Beautiful climb. I've recently been getting into slab and loving it. I may have to try this. 😊
B.A.!!! :) you're slaying and your videos are enjoyable. I'm looking forward to bumping into you somewhere's.
Cool stuff! Some pro filming there, smooth gimble action. I didn't know you were a fellow lefty 😉. Congrats on a smooth book signing & promotion!
Us lefties in our right mind right? ;) I'm learning the gimbal, it's harder than I expected. Yet every time I don't haul it around I regret it
Congrats on the signing !
Thanks :))
Pffftt-that "paint" ain't gonna last. Please learn about good epoxy primer. Otherwise our kids and grandkids will have to see all yer red glue! EEEEWWWW,gross!
Sickness! What’s the route name ?
It's named Out Of Pockets, I have a full video of the area coming out shortly, and soon they'll be on Mountain Project
다음은 북한산 인수봉 도전?
That's why roofers wear good running shoes !! Grip on similar medium, walking up a sheet covered in sand.
Barely any holds? My guy that is a flat wall lol
(in all seriousness awesome shit, keep at it!)
Wow that was an amazing route! I'll keep that in my back pocket as my trad skills improve.
Crazy awesome stuff man
Nose over toes dude
Please put route on Mountain project
Where is this?
Super sick route!!
You used to be able to tell which yanks had climbed with Brit partners because they used double ropes - would have made the runner placement and rope management much easier and safer too. Cool vid though and great climbing.
Yeah, I've definitely never used double ropes in the desert. Most everything there is a single splitter. We stumbled upon this route and just went for it. We've got a much better gear list for next time though :)
Got wet hands.
Why would you put a bolt there? Why not use a micro cam? Micro nut maybe? Maybe just do two moves before you place something? Your third handhold is a "bomber finger lock" which I'm sure will take a .3/.4 depending on your fingers. Seems out of character for the creek.
The first bolt? Just doesn't take any gear at all, plus the rock is really chossy in the first 8 feet. This isn't the creek, but you'll find occasional bolts protecting unprotectable sections there too.
Evan! Excellent job having the vision for this route 🤙🏻
Thanks, I've been eying it for 10 years lol. Just glad I had the height!
Grade inversely proportional to climber's height.
Makes me want to plan a road trip!
Absolutely amazing route!
You're up next!!
@@EvanWisheropp I will be there soon! Can't Wait!!
Beautiful Push. Congrats.
Liked seeing the whole thing with no cuts and a great angle. Gives a better feeling on how challenging a lead actually is.
The route keeps getting better and better! But no tape gloves, so must not be Moab. Probably a gym route
😂😂😂 Yessssss lol
What's the correlation with Moab and tape gloves? Is the rock sharp, does it leave a lot of red pigment?
nice!
such a unique and cool looking climbing!!!