วีดีโอ

@@papasgarage was it like that before? Did you take apart the whole lcd and misalign something or forgot to plug a ribbon cable in all the way?

​@@Bizija123 it was dim, unreadable until it "warmed up" 10-15 minutes later, then it would return to normal. i sure could have misaligned something, i did plug in all the ribbons and 2 plug in between the 2 boards. i also replaced the 5 caps. i could have sodered them in incorrectly, ALSO i could only find the 10s in a 50 volt rather than a 35. thank you for the question, jim

@@davidhonrubia3959 I have long since sold the car. The hydraulic lifters in the valve train don't receive adequate oil (due to poor engine design) and as a result they tick. I did do a liquid Molly engine flush and it helped big time to quiet them down. Much easier than replacing the lifters, lol.

I have done this before, but question… When you say pump it down into a bottle, do you mean just hook the high side to the bottle (bottle under vacuum) and let the compressor push the Freon out through the high side straight into the bottle, right? I’ve also heard that it may end up taking some oil with it.

@@DanTheMan0695 Yes and Yes, but if you are opening the system to do work it really doesn't matter! You should pay someone to recover but Years ago we did this but, those days are gone now. If you are doing this for money do the right thing and get a recovery machine and recovery bottle.

@@rickfromtexas9037 in that case it may be better to slowly release into a covered 5 gallon bucket of water then properly dispose at a facility.

​@@Bizija123is r134a water soluble? If so it may be a viable way to recover it. If it can be removed from the water and dried, perhaps it could even be reused.

4.7 mfd, 35v

@@rusty81588 I tried from both low side and high side however once the tank equalizes in pressure with the car's system, it no longer pulled in any refrigerant. It appears that dry ice is needed to REALLY get the tank cold and lower the pressure enough to pull the freon in more. Someone also suggested having a second vacuumed tank to pull the rest in, but that is extra expense.

@@jumboegg5845 I was thinking about trying that however I read somewhere that it pulls out too much oil from the system.

Haha yea that could work.

Interesting. Thanks for the input!

Stupid question. If you are replacing the compressor anyway, can you run the system to pump the remainder of the refrigerant out the high side into the tank.? You might have to jump the compressor clutch to keep it on for a few seconds until the system empties.

​@@joeysantillo8977It sounds feasible. The high side will have higher pressure and push freon toward the tank. As you mentioned, the compressor will need to be jumped to bypass the cutoff switch. It will not be "good" for the compressor of course, but even if you're replacing it, you don't want to risk having it seize up and contaminate the system, which in itself opens a whole other set of problems.

​@Bizija123 Honestly the chances of messing up the compressor in that scenario are pretty low. If the vehicle is at an idle, and you run the compressor until the gauges quit lowering, there will still be residual oil in the compressor keeping it lubricated. Same concept when draining trans fluid without a drain plug. Unhook a cooler line, idle the engine until fluid quits coming out, then immediately shut it off. Doesn't hurt the pump or starve it long enough to do any damage.

​@@joeysantillo8977if the old compressor still works, you could use it to pump out the refrigerant. If not, you still need another way to get the refrigerant out.

Did you replace it with the same part number as your previous one? There are two different lcd panels.

@@Bizija123 I’m glad your reply to me 🙏🏻 Actually brother I bought another one complete meter and unfortunately there was a issue with the LCD panel and I just replace with my original panel 🤔 i thought it will work 😵‍💫

@@razirover5429 So you replaced the entire cluster and the lcd panel and nothing works? I'm not sure exactly what's wrong. You may have the wrong year cluster installed. Please post on benzworld.org forums. I am on there and others can help.

@@Bizija123 yes brother i got another use entire cluster with damage display panel and mine original cluster entire needles wasn’t working properly 😵‍💫I hope you understand brother 👀 so after that I just take off my original cluster and swap the LCD panel with new clusters I thought maybe it will work this LCD panel on 2nd cluster but still have the same issue 👀

@@razirover5429 I understand brother. What is the issue after you did the replacements? Is there nothing on the display? Does the replacement cluster light up? Do the needles work?

Mine wants $550 for the same job

There aren't any part numbers but capacitors specifications. You need these www.ebay.com/itm/274996459942 and these www.ebay.com/itm/125983800514

@@Bizija123 thank you. I was more concerned about ensuring I order the correct physical size since they are surface mount. I know that some SMT electronics come in different sizes even though they have the same specs. thanks again for the quick reply!

@@ToddEmmershy They are tiny, about 5x5mm

So, this did not work for me. I still have a dimly lit DIC. Did you perform this and it worked for you? Do you know of another solution? thanks.

by the way, i would not recommend you doing this unless you have excellent expertise in removing and reinstalling SMT components. I tore the pads up and some of the traces. It really sucked.

It should be plug and play, just make sure you get the correct one out of the two possible part numbers.

Same as the other, 4.7 microfarad. It should say it right on the capacitor.

Yes, it would be far easier to pull a used LCD out of a cluster, but that can end up needing capacitors too. They basically all need it after 20 years. In your case of washing out, you may actually have a bad LCD backlight or some other component is faulty such as the cover glass or polarizer layers.

@@Bizija123 Unfortunately the IC has to be out even to figure out which donor display to look for. The LCD has 2 different configurations (2 OR 3 cables/Ribbon) so the donor has to match. I will check the capacitors while am in there and maybe I will be lucky. 😅

@@walidmorsi7156 The donor cluster would need to be a facelift w220 starting from 2003 I think would fit. So 03,04,05 would likely be compatible but not the 00,01 or 02 model years.

I have S320 and the speedometer have some issue, lcd polarizer already melted i did clean it and replace new. But nothing display just backlight. Is that same issue like this video that i have to change capacitor? Thanks. Sorry bad english😅

@@andrewzikrie285 did you replace the screen only? Or the whole screen assembly? If the latter, I know the assembly has 2 different types/numbers written on the bottom of the assembly. I am yet to do this but am sharing based on the information I gathered

It won't need programming to your VIN, it will work, however you need to download the coding off your old cluster and upload into the replacement cluster. The coding tells the cluster which features your car has, etc. You will also have inaccurate odometer. Odo will just reflect the donor cluster mileage.

I bought them on ebay. You can view any electronics soldering basics video on youtube to learn how to desolder and solder caps.

Hi, can you please tell me which oil Marke you use for 5w40

That's great to hear! You can't even find new units like this any longer so I'm happy to help.

I did not need to, the codes and errors go away after everything is fixed. I did have an advanced obd scanner to clear the codes quickly.