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It's just Bambu PLA Basic, though I have been getting some inconsistent results lately because of my flat's high humidity (even feeding the filament into the printer straight out of a filament dryer). My flat's got 60% humidity (a combination of being in Wales and having to use that room to dry washing!) so I suspect I can't print anything for the remainder of the winter, alas!

Thank you :) Glad to hear somebody likes the style as there's certainly an opinion that I tried to bite off more than I could chew in going for a "works in 6mm and 15mm with a single sculpt" approach! I've an open mind to the Pacific, but it'd be a long ways off as, to be honest, it'd be at the bottom of the release schedule for me. Largely because of a lack of personal interest but also because I don't think it'd sell as well as, say, Overlord 1944. I'd like to cover 1944, the Eastern Front and possibly the Desert theatres first.

I'll do a tutorial for FDM masts at some point.

Not going to lie but this video was more experimenting/faffing on-the-fly than I might have liked! Were I to do it all again, I'd probably follow most of the steps but use a "purpose-made" Feldgrau paint with a bit of contrast medium. And, again, find another dedicated paint to get the trouser colour right. After that, you could add the Agrax Earthshade wash to the tunic and then limit yourself to a simple stark highlight (e.g. plain grey for the trousers and a lighter green for the tunic). That'd be less faffing! I'll admit I've gone off Contrast Paints for small scale minis. I think 15mm is about the smallest they're "worth it" at. If I paint 6mms now I just block-paint them with solid colours and then do some edge highlights. Even *that* feels time-consuming!

@@turnerminiatures - Don’t really like the Feldgrau produced by Vallejo, which is much too neutral and dull. Early War German jackets had a very distinct bluish-greenish hue, which is perhaps why I was intrigued by your initial wash of bluish Contrast paint on the blank figure. Putting Agrax over it completely filters out the blue, replacing it with a warm yellow. Important at this scale, imho, to have your Krauts looking distinct from your Brits, Poles or Frenchies, who all wear brownish-green camo.

I was a weird enough kid to actually have a CD of his when I was like... 10... Anyway, as this was a Fall of France project, Imagine Me on the Maginot Line was the first thing to pop into my head! My Gran, however, thought he was a "vile little man."

@turnerminiatures I understand why she would think that lots of his songs are quite inappropriate, but he says the stuff so vaguely.

@@charlieempire7733 Yes, it's quite wholesome by our standards now but I think some of his songs were probably somewhat lewd for the time and she was quite a stern woman! Thinking of When I'm Cleaning Windows, for example... and, hell, even this song talks about shooting your CO in the face!

Yeah unfortunately most Blender tutorials are quite generic and focussed on other purposes, which I guess makes sense since it's used for everything, especially animation/video game models. In honesty I just learned-by-doing. The only tutorial I used was the classic Donut tutorial to learn how the programme worked. That being said, Artisan of Vaul's TH-cam channel appears to be focussed on making wargaming minis, and has tutorials for those.

I hadn't tried so I just gave this a test. I'm afraid it's not a perfect fit; you would need to do some editing work. The lapels are too long and span down beyond where the turnbacks start. The inward curve where the coat meets across the breast is also more exaggerated on the SYW figures so there's a bit where the jacket behind the lapels is visible in the model's middle. I'll send you a picture on Discord.

It bears mentioning that the coats, waistcoats and lapels are all new sculpts, not copies of the SYW equivalents. They're also longer than the SYW versions.

Would depend on your aim I suppose! If you wanted to put the new legs on but maintain the model's height, you'd need to move bits up, if you wanted the models to match the AWI's 8mm height, you wouldn't need to do anything except delete the old legs and base. I haven't tested this, but the waiscoat could cause problems, yes; it would "arc" forward too high up (above the knee). While it might look okay, it'd at least be more exaggerated than on the original model (look at the figure on the right at the start of the video and imagine if his knee was pushed down; the waiscoat would be stuck forming a sort of ridge above it).

16gb of RAM should be sufficient. The important thing is to give it time to load - on my PC it takes almost 5 minutes to open the file; this is because there are so many active modifiers on all the objects that need to be calculated each time the file is opened. Just leave Blender be and let it load, even if it looks like it's crashed.

@@turnerminiatures Blender crashes though, it disapears from Task Manager

@@clive3490 Ah well in that case I'm stumped - if it's closing itself with no intervention from the user, that's something I've not seen before. If you keep task manager open while trying to open it, what's the performance usage look like? Are you RAM capped? How long does it take to crash and how does it happen? Instant crash with a programme closure, hanging with the screen freezing a bit first? I've not had issues like that myself - in my case it just slows down my whole PC and hangs while it loads.

@@turnerminiatures 16gig ram, TM reports using beteen 90 & 95% usage at between 9.5 & 10.5 ish Gigs. Status reports as Not Responding alsmost as soon as I select the main file from the Recent Files selector and Blender crashes after loading for 3 mins 10 secs ish. This is after a hard restart with only Blender and TM running. No other app or service is using more than 100mb Ram

@@clive3490 Only thing I can think to suggest is trying out Razer Game Booster to further free up RAM, as I'm assuming you're RAM capped? Other than that, I can try partitioning the file up and uploading it in parts so it has a smaller performance impact when opened. I'll get that done tomorrow if it proves necessary. In my own case, I'm sitting at 12gb RAM usage with the file and two Firefox tabs open. Please let me know how you get along with trying Game Booster (if you're willing to try it; there's a video on it on this channel) and I'll try partition up the file if needs be.

They'll find their way onto my Only-Games store, where I sell physical prints made on my behalf, but that'll be in a few months. Google "Turner Miniatures Only Games" if you want to find the store :)

Hiya, the software shown in the video - Blender

It's easy enough to just toggle the hilt off (click it and press "H"); I'll make sure they're separate objects in the final release.

@@turnerminiatures awesome

You can just delete the other epaulette; select the pair, hold Z, select "wireframe" and then press Tab. Box select the epaulette you don't want and press X to delete it.

@@turnerminiatures Awesome. Thanks!

The reason I like to do it in Lychee is because it's a time-saver (though perhaps not by much); once you've made your typical strip arrangements, you can open one of your .LYTs, "save as" something else and then replace the models inside with whatever else you want to stick on a strip. In 3DBuilder you'd have to manually place stuff each time you want to make a strip. Again, not that much more time-consuming but I've personally liked just having a "one size fits all" template. But 3DB is certainly an option, yes.

Depends on how complicated a given ship is. I can knock a typical one out in two days, but the likes of Tonnant, with all the options, took more than a week.

Hey, I'll do my best (and I admit that, in the past, sometimes the odd negatively scaled object has snuck through; they can be easy to miss in files that have hundreds of objects) but anything complex exported out of the Blender files is going to need to be repaired. There are a few web services, here's one I've used on the very rare occaissions 3DBuilder hasn't worked: www.formware.co/onlinestlrepair

@@turnerminiatures Thank you for pointing out the online stl repair service! In spite of my criticism, I am and, as I suspect, always will be your loyal customer.

Hey, Well, technically yes - but 6mm is what the miniatures were designed for, so I can't guarantee that parts won't snap off. We have had someone print them at 2mm; but I'd imagine the muskets and bayonets would be quite fragile as a result! Try it out on the free figures: www.myminifactory.com/users/henryturner/collection/free-models

@@turnerminiatures Don't have the printer just yet- currently looking into something suitable. Cheers.

@@peezebeuponyou3774 I'd go for a Mars 3 as a cheap entry-level machine that'll also produce great results. Resin printing is quite a big learning curve at first, and can be very frustrating, but will work nicely and consistently once you've settled on a resin and stable print settings :) If you want advice from others, you can feel free to ask any questions on the Facebook group or the Discord! facebook.com/groups/turnerminiaturesfans discord.gg/U6tdUBn

@@turnerminiatures Thank you- I'll definitely take a look at the Mars 3. Already joined the FB group.🙂