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Btw, in a video of bikefarmer taken in a bikemuseum in LA i saw a oldfashioned sign wich was of Featherstone Bicycles. Is that the origin of your name? I just wondered.

Hi Featherstone, i use a small glass mustard jar for cleaning the tiny parts. The bottombracket is a left threaded one so you should turn it right to losen it. Identifying an old peugeot is pretty difficult, so many types and so little information. These bikes were really populair here in the netherlands. Looking forward for the next episode, thank you.

I have restored the same bike and I LOVE it, i find it very confortable on the road and the brake levers are life changing. In France the designation is PX50S same color for mine but different crankset and the shifters are on the down tube, I think it's from 1983 but I'm not sure. To disasemble the bottom bracket you should unscrew in the opposite way crank arms are moving when pedaling (so clockwise on the left side and anti-clokwise on the right side). You wont regret restoring it !

The steel cranks with the cotter pins are a giveaway to the age of the bike.

Hello Featherstone, nice bike , certainly worth restoring it. Speaking about breaking it, please be carefull when you remount the front derailleur, the bakelite part of it seems to be fairly brittle so it will break very easily. Love your videos

Don honn is the man to know for schwinn parts..

WOW !!! What a great mass of stuff......and what great advertising banners. I do hope you run onto some NOS Schwinn decals because I'm refurbishing a 1979 Schwinn Caliente and the decals are totally shot. I look forward to your next vid when you continue to sort out your treasures.

WOW! What a journey and also a well esrned reward for the work. Hey, don't throw away any of the fillet braised frames (assuming they areee straight). The Super Sports and Sports Tourers are worth bead blasting and repainting...

that big monstrous piece of metal you showed is a breaker bar. you can slide it over a wrench to enlarge it. great find . i guess you have some time to spend to get everything at its place.

As you've noticed, 26 x 1 3/8 tires for older English 3 speeds are for an EA3 590mm rim whereas the Schwinn S5/6 tire is for a 597mm rim which is what you have. As well, Istrongle recommend applying tire talc (or baby powder) to the whole surface of new tubes before installation. This allows the tube to squirm around while filling it and thus prevents pinching, wrinkling, kinking and misalignment.

I just worked on that same front derailleur (from s '73 Schwinn Super Sports). There is a way to disassemble (cage pivot bolt off last)... and only after totally apart can the low limit screw be removed. Getting it back together is HARD, requires a vise and padded vice grips. But it is actually a lovely forged billet with great chroming that benefits greatly from full treatment. I havre another just like it to do from a '71 Continental... I will make a video of the process soon.

thank you for showing the details of restoring a bike. been there ,done that and got the t shirt. the result is i am now having a beautifull Gazelle Trimsport from 1975 in the shed. currently busy with a Koga Miyata off the same year. everything is done except reassembling. keep on with the good work, it is higly appreciated.

Hola, me hace falta una pieza de esa

Brings back some 40 year old memories.

Was waiting for the "P-TING" sound as it grabbed a bolt (an irreplaceable one) and fired it off to Never Never Land! 😅

Someone is going to get a beautiful restored shwinn bicycle out thairs for Christmas.

Free advice for using Evaporust: IF you have ANY hydrocarbon film (grease/oil/solvent) on the part you're trying to derust, the Evaporust will NOT be able to get at the rust easily....or in some cases not at all. ALWAYS wash the part in soapy water FIRST (Dawn dish soap works great)....then rinse off in clean water.....THEN put the part in the Evaporust. The derusting process will then take place a LOT faster......and the Evaporust won't be contaminated by the hydrocarbons. As for the spokes or anything with bright zinc plating, please do NOT use a wire wheel on the part. All this will do (especially on spokes) is COMPLETELY REMOVE the very thin zinc plating and you'll be down to the raw steel substrate. Better to use a metal polish such as Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish or (preferably) Autosol Metal Polish. This will clean and shine the zinc plating and leave it very shiney.....assuming the zinc plating is still on there to BE shone up. The zinc on the spokes is VERY thin so treat it with care.

It is not uncommon to do away with the cage for bearings but you will need a couple more to fill the space. Many sources including Sheldon Brown's site prefer eliminating cages and having a higher ball count. Less load per bearing.

what is the tool called that holds the brake calipers together when you're running the cable?

I did the same thing.but the rust came back.thinking a sealer spray

Nice work. Your music choices are excellent. Do you play?

Another fantastic job. With how easy it would have been to replace cables, cable sleeves, bearings, etc. and what you do is disassemble everything removable, clean it and reassemble it. The work is simply spectacular. Bravo!

Wow! Kudos for taking those bearings apart to clean. I know these Schwinn caged races get slagged but I love them. I feel they do a better long term job. I cleaned them with alternating cycles of solvent soak and ultrasonic cleaner with a degreaser (in a freezer baggy).

I have started to polish the fender mounts with steel wool and then rubbing compound. It gets them one step away from chrome! You really are a master of the details so I thought you might like to try it. A big visual improvement for just a few minutes work. Looking forward to more episodes on this classic.

I had got some from a swap meet and it started to flake off it was made in China.😮

How much would it cost to get a paint job.

I know you already did it- but I am thinking of using electrolysis to remove the rust from the fender arms (i have mine separated from the fender). Think that would work?

STOP STOP STOP THE SHTTY NOISE YOU CALL MUSIC REALLY SUCKS

My dad had an identical spec bike branded as a Ross he purchased in mid 70s. I think it’s still at the Florida condo he sold some 20 years ago.

Aside from the now called “step through” what really made it a women’s bike? Was it just the frames shape?

Absolutely amazing. I have never seen any vids on how to disassemble/reassemble either the front freewheel or the rear "non-freewheel". You've supplied great tips and warnings all the way through your vid. Very thorough the whole way. The FF System from Shimano was supplied to only 3 bike manufacturers: Schwinn, Raleigh and (correction) Panasonic. There were at least 3 variants of the system during its relatively short life. The earliest use I've seen is on a 1978 Chicago-built Schwinn and the latest use was on a 1985-ish Panasonic Schwinn. I've never seen it installed on a Raleigh although I have an idea that Raleigh maybe sold it only in the UK and very few bikes were sold with it there. There was also a 6 speed "non freewheel" version available although this may have been for Panasonic/National bikes in the Japanese domestic market. I've never seen a 2 x 6 FF system-equipped bike in North America. I have some of the advertising documentation for the FF system for both 1 piece and 3 piece cranks. I currently own a 1979 Schwinn Caliente men's bike with a 1 piece crank 2 x 5 FF system on it that I'm currently in the process of refurbishing and that's why I searched and found your great vid. I also have a 1984 Schwinn World Tourist lady's bike with 3 piece crank 2 x 5 FF system that I refurbished a number of years ago. Over the years I have bought, fixed and resold THREE 1985 Panasonic Schwinn World Tourist lady's bikes with the 3 piece crank FF system. Out of all these Schwinns, only the Caliente has been abused/neglected. All the others were almost brand new !!! Apparently the owners decided that the FF system was a little TOO novel for them.....and the bikes were heavier, too, which wouldn't help matters. At the end of all this, your vid will now allow me to tackle the rear "non-freewheel" on the Caliente without fear of never being able to reassmble it.......although I might use a light EP-rated grease on the front freewheel assembly instead of oil. I'll let you know how it works out.

Howdy from western Colorado!

I am having trouble converting from a square tapered 3 pc crank on A Genesis G7, Desperately need this for a build as in daily driver. thx

I've been toying with the idea of trying to lace my own set of wheels and this video is perfectly timed! with that said, and consider this may sound dumb : what are the benefits of 4-cross over 3-cross? is it more rigid or long-lasting, or something of the sort? thank you again for the video!

Thank you for another great set of videos. I learn more and enjoy more. By the way was that music from Vivaldi?

Another fantastic job. Also, yellow 🙂

Great job. Lovely music , lovely bike. Long after you (and I) are gone the bike will be still rolling.

I’ve been de rusting old chains with dilute hydrochloric acid. A minute soak then into the neutralizing bath. They come out pristine. Do you see any problems with this?

I love using bench grinder with wire wheel. Also using aluminum with those cotton wheels and compound. I could literally do it for hours.

What da f is the point of this video. uselees

Thanks for the trick with the screwdriver to be able to work on the spoke nipples. I will shortly do as you do: one manual and one for the electric screwdriver.

He is American??

Keep up the good work..!! ... Only just found your channel...am well impressed with the DIY content...very useful...u got a new subscriber...👍

I am Featherstone too!

The work you have done is fantastic. Simply marvellous. You have shown impressive patience. Because removing the bottom bracket and headset bearing cages for cleaning is a lot of work. I really enjoyed watching the series. Bravo!

Are those brass brushes?

I’m learning something everyday I’ve got the same axel on my beach cruiser

great info ! thanks

always wear googles with a wire wheel, they will shed bristles-bad experience

I done the same thing and some metal polish.hopefully it will say that way it had very little rust.