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It's not going to be easy to extract the battery. You can charge it inside the model, so it was never meant to be removed. You'd have to start removing panel assemblies until it fits out.

​@@MrAmortiI see, because I scared the battery long time didn't charge or use the liquid will leak out to damaged the AMG one 😬

@@LittleBuddy_07 it contains a lithium battery, it won't ever leak.

​@@MrAmorti really?ohh thanks for let me know ❤️

The TPS was bad. Replacing it immediately cured the problem. I have another short showing it in diagnostic mode. I was able to get the TPS paid by warranty/recall , even just this recently. Ask the Yamaha dealer for the same!

@@MrAmorti I went to my local Yamaha dealer today, they said no recall for my 57 plate fz6. Funny thing is, before i went i opened the diagnostic menu on the tps setting 16-102 with no fluttering, i gently opened and closed the throttle, turned the bike off and my misfiring has now gone, how strange is that!

@@MrAmorti Have been to the Yamaha dealer and they said no recall for my 07 fz6. Before i made the 8 mile journey i entered diagnostics mode and checked tps "16-102" with no glitches, strange thing is that after doing that the poor running/misfiring has now stopped. How strange is that?

@@adolfshitler strange for sure. It can be as simple as dirt on the wiper track, maybe you somehow cleaned it off? Or maybe it'll fail again soon, if it's even that. Did you ever catch it glitching? If not, could also be eg. a bad fill of fuel with water in the bottom of the tank that's now worked its way through.

@@MrAmorti Very odd, never saw it glitch at all, it's was doing it through many tanks of fuel so unlikely to be water. It would at around 80°c start kangarooing at very small throttle settings every time i rode it for the last 3/4 months 50/60 times, never did it before then. It's only got 9k on it so was hoping for trouble free running for many many miles. My only other thought was a coil breaking down when the engine was hot and transferring heat into them. Time will tell no doubts 👍

It probably does! Especially if you're getting running issues. Test it again when hot, look for glitches

Sorry no. It's not something I've done, nor would I recommend it since the steering is *so* limited in that configuration.

Probably bricklink is best, if you do not already have those as spare parts.

@@MrAmorti can you please send me the link? Thank you so much.

Thanks! Those gears aren't included. You can add them when you order from CaDA, at 6 cent each.

Thanks! You could probably do something using the brake caliper mounting point, but it would probably obstruct the suspension. Unless you 3D print a specific part, I think it is fine without that, but of course YMMV.

It's a used OEM indicator from BMW. Sorry, IDK the code.

And now because I was forcing the issue, the car doesn't drive forward either. The same gear pairing is now constantly slipping. It's most likely related to the rear wheel dif maybe.

It's the differential that's slipping, because the fake engine is running OK. One of the new Lego differentials should fix it.

@@mssm9495 sorry it happened to you! The car is quite big and heavy for the old type differential, so it can be better with the differential type from the TopGear rally car or even the 1:8 Ferrari. I didn't have any problems, but I guess driving mostly forwards (even up a hill and for a long time) is less stressful than driving indoors with frequent back-and-forwards manoeuvres.

Yes, after a few minutes of enthusiastic backwards and forwards play indoors, the diff chewed through the 20 tooth double bevel gear. I built the 2WD version, so that would not have helped.

@@mssm9495 come to think of it, the CaDA Ferrari from Bruno did the same for me.

In case of doubt, go with the PDF version 😊 bricksafe.com/files/A_morti/cada-suzuki-katana/KatanaFixes.pdf

I'd say that the Lego spring is pretty similar to what you get with the kit. Tbh the original shocks aren't bad at all, I just was fortunate to have harder ones available.

service.decadastore.com/ Try CaDA directly, hopefully they can help!

I don't know, better ask directly

Hard to know without seeing it, but the only gears which aren't fully braced on both sides, are those bevel gears. Flip the car upside down, put some resistance on the tyres, and try to replicate the fault. Probably it'll be the bevel gears.

Looks like its the rear differential itself slipping against the drive gear :/ Idk how to fix it bc the differential is gonna be a huge pain in the butt to remove. If this keeps on happening, will the gears on the diff eventually just wear out and stop working?

@@ethanzaiden365 that's unfortunate because you're right, it won't be easy to get into that 5*7 frame. Maybe get hold of a heavy duty differential from the Lego Ferrari, and fit it whenever the gears quit engaging?

IMO You should continue building. I think that if you never run the two motors in opposite directions to charge the pullback quicker and also let it hit the end, you'll probably never have the fault occur. If on the other hand that does happen once, I believe the click will then always be there. If it does happen you can just get the gears for a few cents each, cut that one pin, and do the mod.

The brake discs shouldn't interfere with the running. If they do interfere, then maybe something must be adjusted.

Could you have a faulty remote? Try connecting the motor to a different output in the battery, and see if it works there. Try posting a video at the CaDA Bricks Facebook group, maybe we the community can help, or point you where you can get replacement parts if faulty.

Thanks, will check this out!@@MrAmorti

Thanks you! The knob gears are 6c each from the CaDA store: decadastore.com/products/cada-bricks-technic-knob-wheel-jh9066 The shocks I just happened to have already, they aren't available separately (they aren't 100% needed). The T liftarms you'd have to get on bricklink or elsewhere (again, not 100% needed). If my video helped the decision to buy, please use my affiliate link :)

@@MrAmorti Are you sure the affiliated link is still working ? I don't see any discount on my cart.

@@5Tex5 I'll check with CaDA

@@5Tex5 please use code AMorti5%

Enjoy the build! Anywhere that the two halve build a T, you can replace with a T. There's just two in the door hinge where they're used as L's. Check also your worm gears! bricksafe.com/files/brunojj1/stuff/C61503W-thread-installation.pdf

Key off. Press and hold both buttons together. Key on. Keep holding both buttons for about ten Mississippis, when the display changes to diag release the buttons and press them both again for about 5 Mississippis until it says d01 (this is the TPS item).

@@MrAmorti oh i had the key on the whole time lmao, thanks homie everything is looking good tps wise it hits 16 at no throttle and goes all the way up smoothly, i appreciate it i’ll subscribe in case i have any other questions

It'll be obvious once you get going. The two halves are added in the same step. Again it's not 100% necessary but it is the one modified part which bothered me.

do you any advise for me for D102 when I realise the wire in C66 is too short to be connected? Is it possible to get a extension cable? To get it connected

@@dottedinred I don't have the instructions to hand, but I'm guessing it's one of the stacking connectors? There are four if them with two lengths, long and short. If you have it incorrect, you'll have to rewire with the correct one.

No, never before! I reckon I sound better at 1.25x speed

@@MrAmorti I'm not saying it's bad. More of the opposite - it's very characteristic :D

Please see my full review video, and BugFixes video.

@@MrAmorti So i interpret it as ´yes´ and ´good´ . Thanks for the answer

Ich hatte mich beim Bau wegen der Plastikgelenke schon gewundert, allerdings haben sie bei mir keine Probleme gemacht. Waren die gebrochenen als Vorder- oder Heckgelenke verbaut?

​​@@MrAmortiDie gebrochenen Kardangelenke waren im Heck, da ich das Fahrzeug mit Allradantrieb ausgestattet habe, habe ich die vorderen Kardangelenke auch getauscht. Um den Akku zu laden, habe ich ein 20 cm USB-Kabel verbaut, dass man an der Seite zum Laden einfach raus zieht, und nach dem Ladevorgang wieder zurück schiebt. So muss ich nicht bei jedem Ladevorgang die Heckpaneele entfernen.

@@nophi3015 kann das eventuell daher kommen, dass kein Zentraldifferenzial verbaut wurde? Tut mir leid, ich weiß nicht wie man das auf deutsch nennt. www.toughtoys.com.au/how-to-4x4/transmission-wind-up/

​@@MrAmorti ich habe nur das Differenzialgetriebe verbaut was im Set dabei war.

@@nophi3015 genau, da meinte ich dass Bruno keins verbaut hat.

bricksafe.com/files/brunojj1/stuff/C61503W-thread-installation.pdf

It seems CaDA has redesigned the worm gear to have the threads in the opposite direction to LEGO, but they've been sending the AMG set out sometimes with the new type, sometimes the old type, and now to you with one of each! So if anyone out there comes here for the answer of why their doors run one up/one down, or why the doors go up together with the spoiler going up, this can be the reason. In any case, I'm glad CaDA is making it right for you.

Hey there, thanks for the comments. 1) yes, it's all in the box. You only need to use the battery to lower the spoiler before adding the rubber bands. 2) yes you'll need to purchase them extra. You can get them in black from CaDA at the same time as the kit for just 12 cent extra! decadastore.com/products/cada-bricks-technic-knob-wheel-jh9066

It also wouldn't hurt to order 13 of these T liftarms in black, but it's not 💯 necessary. www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=60484#T=S&C=11&O={%22color%22:%2211%22,%22iconly%22:0}

Do it! You won't regret it.

Da haben Sie recht, dass ist das beste was ich je zusammengebaut habe 👍

If he has previous experience with the large Technic model cars then he'll be fine, but if he's never built such a large model, then consider something smaller. For example CaDA has a really good-looking Alfa Romeo Formula One car.

Watch the video for a couple of modifications. Apart from that, no issues! Be sure to work in good light and sort each bag of parts into a separate bowl, because there's only black and grey.

It'll be fine until your first time driving the motors in opposite directions. Then it will click. After that, it will always click. Use the knob gears, right from the start :)

You could remove the door motor and fit a thumb wheel, it would require patience to use that. The parts quality of CaDA is improved a lot. Check my review video for the flex test, it tells more than words. Also the wing panels are very different. I mentioned it in the review video.

@@MrAmorti got it. By the way,does the manual teach me how to isolate thumb wheel? And because l’m from Taiwan,so I can’t understand some words like”wing panel”.is the wing panel refers to the things on the door.😥

@@user-tj6lp1yg5m the model is intended only for use with motorisation. To have a manual door operation, just omit the motor and put something else there so you can work it by hand. Wing panels are exactly what you described.

@@MrAmorti ok,thank you for your explanation !😁

My pleasure! Enjoy the build :)

They're both great models for different reasons. The pullback function is innovative on the grey one and it has power doors/spoiler, the 4 speed dual gearbox is cool on the red one, especially that it can shift while driving. The parts quality of the grey One is a really noticeable step up and the design is more sturdy due to no opening frunk. It's not a bad idea to get both, but if you will get only one then I'd recommend the grey one for the better parts. The functions are only operable by the motors. However the motor for the doors is easy to remove and even if it would take patience to operate , but you could put a thumbwheel instead. The rear spoiler motor is deeper inside. I think you'd struggle to have it manually operated. The fake motor of the One can be seen by removing the panel which covers the battery box or looking between gaps in the fairings. It's not really out on display. But then again, there's no gearbox as such and pushing it means forcing the electric motors so I wouldn't worry about that, just know it's there and working away.