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“New” 2013 Acura tax wagon owner. Windshield not the problem nor the drains. So this has to be the culprit. I’m a female and first hand know the auto shops take advantage of that. Do you have a video on how you fixed it? I know you shouldn’t use silicone due to it increasing rust from breaking the metal down. Really wanna figure this out on my own or already know what it is and take it to a shop and tell them this is what I want done. Thanks!

Hoping to fix mine before it starts to leak, Thank for the video!

Thank you for the content brother

Literally about to tackle this and mine lol

Thanks for the info just had the exact same problem some capacitor an it took me a while to find the problem to but I soldered it and now it's doing good 😊

Awesome! Thanks for the help!

I've got a problem with these impellers splitting at the hub part. Put a new one on about 15 hours ago. No pee yesterday. New one split. Either a batch of crap impellers - both were bought at the same time as a pair of kits - or maybe the replacement Woodruff key-type thing is the wrong size. Looks too small to me. And the old one went to the tip in a big bag of crap two weeks ago. Thought about this just after getting the email saying they'd shipped the new impeller. I'm guessing you can't just buy a new key on its own. Bollocks. BTW, just wait until you need to change the cam belt. Easy-ish once you've found the proper tool to pull off the flywheel. (which you'll never use again). And one more BTW. A free pdf of the workshop manual for these motors is easy to find online. Looking at the comments below, some might find this useful.

I replaced my window a few months ago everything was fine until I hit the tracks to hard. I figured it couldn’t be the windshield because it was 4:59 on the same driver side I got some Marine Loctite, no more leak

Is this motor faster than a 9.9 evinrude 2 stroke 2001? seems about the same to me… I bet gas mileage is better on the Honda though

Can somebody help me please? I tried to remove the lower unit, it worked but it only comes down about 4 inches and that it, sound like the shaft requires something to be removed, not sure what to do, help please :)

Three years later, and a completely different brand of dehumidifier but I just found your video. I've only replaced relay's when they've blown up and are easy to spot but that's not always how the fail and your diagnosis completely makes sense. Glad I don't have to try to find a new main control board (discontinued), try to diagnose/replace the brains of it (my initial thought, and should probably involve an oscilloscope that I don't own), or spend $300 for a new dehumidifier! Thank you! Relays are cheap and easy to solder, just be sure to use flux!

NO

Fast and easy!! Thanks for sharing.

Edit! So a year later and I'm on the water and motor is barely peeing. I beach the boat and take off lower end (make sure to keep tools on your boat!) and inspect impeller - it was fine but TWO old impeller blades were stuck in water channel (under metal gasket) restricting water flow...make sure to take the screen intake off and find old broken impeller blades unlike I did!!

Thanks will try that

Hey, thanks for the video! Not sure if it was the ground or the relay,but working for now!

Thanks very informative

For anyone with this style Frigidaire dehumidifier that is having the compressor won't turn off while powered off issue and are sick of trying to hit the relay each time. The style compressor relay these use is SFK-112DM. Four solder points on the bottom of the board.

Good video. Just what I needed. One thing I will do is flush out the tubes coming and going.

Thanks for this episode. I dropped the lower unit on my Honda 20hp, informed by your tutorial. It was easy, and when I found the impeller intact, I used my compressor to blow out the intake tube. All reassembled, and water circulating like it should. Problem solved!

The numbers tell if the TCU was manufactured in Japan or the USA. ALWAYS try to get the TCU manufactured in Japan. Those manufactured in the USA are JUNK. I have replaced these a number of times in Honda Accords for people and most times I simply go for 90, 91, 92 models as they are interchangable. I look for Japanese rather than worrying about the specifics of the car.

Thanks for the video. How did it end up working out. Did the 3m tape hold up over time.

I tap the side where the relay is located and it shut right off.

Saved me from having to buy a new one, thanks so much for posting this, I thought our machine was possessed when it ran even when switched off. I followed your advice, sorted👍

You're the man. Having the same issue. Thanks so much check capacitors they're fine

Tengo uno ....una nave

Delete this video. Dont post shit like this untill you TRY IT FIRST

Thank you! This worked.

Worked like a charm thank you! Did not even have to replace humidity sensor or relais(yet)..was somewhat surprised how well the unit was built..def worth repairing

Mine had no blades😂

The glass body component should be a diode, might just be a common 1N4148 type but hard to say. These are common for protection or other low voltage circuit tricks. Not sure what it would be doing on a humidity sensor board. It looks like the leads corroded away which is strange, but maybe it's constantly exposed to condensation. The leads on components like that are usually a type of iron alloy which explains the red rust residue. I have a similar humidifier that I found with the compressor stuck on and it's likely the stuck relay as well. Thanks for the video showing what to expect and giving me hope that it's actually serviceable. A lot of things are built so proprietary and completely unserviceable now. The contacts are worn in the relay and starting to weld themselves together. Maybe you can get lucky and it works for a while, but it's likely to happen again. It's PCB mounted for the coil connections to trigger it, but that might be 2-4 leads and you just have to heat up those connections and gradually pull it out without damaging the PCB.

Did you shift into forward before removing the drive?

Thank you so much for sharing your find! You solved my problem (relay connection)!! My husband thinks I’m a genius 😉

straight to it thank you

Thanks for answering the ability to swap the vent and sink inlet! I couldn't find an answer to that anywhere

Does the trim come with a rubber lining that touches the windshield?

Thank you so much. I had to remind myself with this video how to do it

Thank you so much. I had to remind myself with this video how to do it

Did it go into a limp mode or anything when your impeller took a crap?

Thks I'll try that to stop my compressor!

I found this really useful. Cheers!

Worked! Thanks for posting...

Brilliant , I forgot the extra bolt on the housing so it wouldn't drop

Excellent and informative video. As someone else mentioned, there is no need to remove the three plug-ins on the left side that connects to the ECU, just the two plug-ins to the TCU, then remove the main mounting securing nuts and carefully withdraw the entire unit far enough to rotate it which provides access to the three mounting screws for the TCU. Once that is in hand you can easily repair or replace.

Those trims are $295/ea!

How about the 98 infinity qx4 is it same screw idle control or different ?

Sweet! Ours just started not turning off the compressor and I think it's a slightly older variant on this series. Thanks for posting this video!

How is it holding up so far?

Thanks for the video. I have a the same dehumidifier lasted about 5 years. It's not working properly so I check the capacity and it's OK but didn't know about the relay or the sensor.

Thanks for the very practical advice.