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Thank you very much.

The clamps came from Home Depot, they were a package of 2 GB Battery Clips rated at 30A. The wires are 12AWG Silicone insulation. Heat shrink is whatever I had lying around. I think in this case it was the heat shrink with the glue. I would not recommend that style here as it slid around more than I would have liked as it was shrinking. Amazon has all kinds of heat shrink bundles with various sizes. Generally I choose the smallest size that will fit prior to shrinkage. The wire connectors at the ends are crimp on ferrules. Amazon has packages that consist of the crimper and a couple thousand ferrules for different sized wires. The grey is the colour code for the wire gauge. A note about crimp on ferrules. Get the crimpers that crimp to a square and not the ones that crimp to a hexagon. I initially thought that the hexagon crimp would be better because it would conform better to the round wire. The problem I ran into was that the hexagon crimps would not fit into terminal blocks like the green one that is attached to the device. Lastly, in the four wire setup, two wires are current carrying and two are sense wires. Several people have written that the sense wires do not have to be large like the 12 AWG that I used. That's true, but by using the same gauge for both I don't have to concern myself with another detail in connecting them. I am constantly swapping between the 4 wire connection and the power adapter connector.

@@dmmartindale So far I have not used more than two and 90% of the time it’s just one. That said the incremental cost was not that high and I would rather be in’s the position of having them and not using them than not having them and needing them. I now have a multimeter (review coming) that incorporates a simple single channel oscilloscope.

I’m not sure I have the equipment to measure that.

Thanks for you feedback. I'm not fond of SAE connectors because the polarity is not determined by the connector but by the application.

@@jtechlabs1 Oh I see what you mean! Thanks! 👍👍

Thanks for your feedback. I share your concern. With so many products coming from China it is hard to assess quality. I rely upon certification by third party test labs (UL, ETL, CSA, TUV). This unit has an ETL certification.

Thank you for your kind feedback. I try very hard to be brief, I will try harder. 🙂 From what I can tell the only difference between the two units is the larger heatsink / fan on the DL24P that lets it go to 180 Watts. I think I read somewhere that the board could go to several hundred watts with sufficient cooling. It may seem silly but I like the lighting effect on the DL24P. Another viewer has commented that the heat sink on the DL24P is not mounted very solidly and that is true. The heat sink on the DL24P can slide around a bit if pushed. The DL24 fan has a better heat sink mount approach. The noise on both units is purely from the fan and the the DL24P with the more elaborate cooling fins results in more air turbulence. Still, it's just air turbulence and the difference, while noticeable is still small in absolute terms. I hope that clarifies things. Let me know if you are wondering about anything else.

@jtechlabs1 First of all, I want to thank you for your reply. Second, I would like to ask how to address you, Jim or Jimy or Jim. I'm from Serbia and I don't have much experience with writing names in English. I asked what is the difference in dl24 because I want to buy. The dl24 is around $40 and the dl24p is around $50. I had also found DIY about 25 USD, it's same but just need to built on board the cooler and fan. But if I order from Aliexpress, the customs duty is calculated above 55 USD and the customs officer can assess and charge another 30%, so dl24p can cost me 70 USD, which is almost 2 times more expensive, maybe, if customs decided in that case. As for the power of the dl24p, I assume that the mosfet under the cooler is stronger on the dl24p, not just the cooler. As for the sliding of the cooler, the thermal paste is probably still fresh and thin, so it slides, it is important that it has good adhesion to the mosfet. I work in electronics as a hobby to fix devices for friends and neighbors for free. I found your video by accident after a few days of watching, find a way for the algorithm to suggest your videos, because they are really good and it's a shame that people watch others and waste their time. I usually translate the message on Google Translate, so maybe the sentence is not well composed. So sorry about that. Best wishes.

@@zoranel.eng.4182 Thank you. I go by Jim. I now understand your challenge. Have you purchased items from AliExpress before? For me in Canada it has been very smooth and I have not had to pay any duties or other import fees which is different from many other places.

I have used the unit to do many 20 hour (0.05C) capacity tests on 12 V batteries. I have not made any videos of the full cycle because there hasn’t been much interest. There appears to be a newer model that includes some data logging and visualization of the full discharge cycle. I hope to be able to show how that works in the future.

@@jtechlabs1 You can record at first few minute and few minutes after 20 h with showing the result. And coment what is good and what is bad.

Thanks for clarifying. I will keep this in mind for future videos. Perhaps a written explanation will help for now. When the load is engaged there is a voltage drop from the open circuit voltage of between 0.4 V to 0.8 V. The exact amount is dependent upon the type of item being tested. In my experience it's lower with batteries and higher with power supplies. When the cutoff voltage (or time) is reached the display switches to the "Complete" screen where it shows the cumulative totals. After dismissing that screen the system is in stop mode. For a power supply it's back to the open circuit state. For a battery the voltage will have risen from the cutoff voltage as the chemistry adjusts to the absence of a load. A little more runtime can be extracted from the battery, but it will drop to the cutoff voltage fairly quickly. Hope that helps.

You're welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful.

Thank you. This unit can only charge batteries, it does not have the ability to test and report on the state of health.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will order one.

@@jtechlabs1 they have a 800ma, 1000ma and 1.5ma in amazon all for under $20 right now. i dunno why anyone would want a charger as slow as 800ma. but it seems like most people are happy with the product. just curious what the performance of the product is especially the maintaining function.

I am testing the 800mA now and plan to release the video on Friday.

@@jtechlabs1 that was quick... looking forward to it!

I have not tried either of these. Are you considering one of them?

Thanks for your feedback

Happy to hear it was helpful.

The ideal thing would be to connect the inverter to a grounding rod. If you have below ground copper pipes for your water service that is frequently a substitute for the grounding rod. In your home the ground wire on your plug should ultimately connect to your ground point. Connecting to the ground of a plug would work. My concern would be the labelling so that someone else that comes across your setup would understand what is going on. Out of your home you would need a metal rod that you drive into the ground or equivalent. I would not recommend the ground bonding plug. That's a total hack and can do unexpected things to the safety objectives of an electrical system.

Glad it helped

Thank you. Glad it was helpful.

Diode mode starts around 29:15.

@@jtechlabs1 Thanks for the reply. I was talking about the manual voltage mode. that video id I mentioned talk about that issue. Isn't it limited to the mV range? when you check the voltage of the batteries at 11:26 (in manual mode) you were in the diode mode, correct?

You have very sharp eyes and I just might need to redo this video. Yes it does appear that I was in diode mode when I took that measurement. By a total fluke because it was a AA cell it worked. I tried it with a 16V lithium ion pack and when I do that it jumps out of diode mode and goes to auto. And yes, the manual voltage mode is limited to the mV range

@@jtechlabs1 That's probably because I was specifically looking for that the second time. Apparently, some DMMs can work up to a few volts in diode mode. Thanks for looking into it for me, and keep up the good work.

How low? I would be happy to do a quick test and convey my findings.

@@jtechlabs1 Maybe start at 1mA and move up to 50mA doing a few in-between. Thanks. I'm trying to decide between the BSIDE ACM91, OWON CM2100B, this WINAPEX 268B, and maybe the HABOTEST HT208D. I'm not sure if the HT208D can read down very low DC current with the clamp.

@LHM4000 I am not really well equipped for such low current ranges, but I did what I could. My load only operates down to a 10mA granularity. So I tried 10, 20 , 30, 40, 50 mA. I was impressed with the 268B as it generally matched what I was seeing on the power supply. It was very hard to tell at 10mA because the load was jumping all over the place. Once I got to 20mA I was happily surprised. I also have a HT208D that I tried because you mentioned it. The HT only has two digits of precision and generally the readings were way off (20 - 30 mA) I would not recommend the HT for those low currents.

Thank you for testing it. After seeing other reviews and doing a lot of research I'm going to get the OWON CM2100B.

@@LHM4000 "Measuring such low dc currents with a clamp meter is prone to large errors. The device is essentially measuring measurement magnetic field. The wanted component is produced by the current you are trying to measure. But other unwanted components come from the earth's magnetic field and other objects such as your screwdrivers, metal toolchest, vehicle engine and bodywork etc. When set to measure dc current, clamp meters have a 'zero' button to null those out but the slightest movement of the meter changes those unwanted components and gives an error in your reading. You can make the wanted field stronger if it is possible to have multiple turns of the wire passing through the clamp. You then need to scale down the reading it gives you."

Thank you.

That's an interesting idea. Are there any classics that you would recommend? I would be concerned that a good classic might not perform as well as a modern classic.

@@pcsof33 I am certainly going to order one, unfortunately I am in South Africa so with courier fees it will work out more expensive, but I think it is worth it.

Thanks for your feedback, sorry for the delayed reply. The main take away is that the order is different. Different people have different expectations of history with some preferring reverse chronological order and some preferring chronological. It is more convenient to have the most recent measurements at the top because it reduces the need to page through the data. I think the design might still be a little better if the measurements were numbered to match that order. If I were undertaking an activity where I was tracking something with the history I would want it to show that my first measurement was #1 and my tenth as #10. With the current design the measurement history is effectively renumbered with every measurement.

@@bobmcclements6275 Yes, I am incorporating these suggestions into more current videos

I think it serves two purposes during shipment. It holds the display tightly so it doesn't come loose from the board. It is also a bit of a buffer for the plastic clamshell and dampens contact between the clamshell and the surface of the display. The box gets banged around a lot on it's journey from China. You can see the damage inside the box from the battery holder.

@jtechlabs1 wow. Thanks 👍

If you are using this to power your furnace in an emergency. 1. You need to make sure that you have disconnected your furnace from the household connection. When the power comes back on current The current will flow the other way back to the inverter and that can cause a dangerous situation. This disconnection will isolate your furnace from your household system. It will also mean that your furnace is isolated from your household ground. 2. The plug you use to connect your furnace to the inverter will already have a ground connection that will connect the furnace and the inverter assuming you are using a three prong connector. 3. With the furnace isolated from #1 and plugged into the inverter #2, you would still be missing a true connection to ground. What you would do is run the ground wire from the ground terminal on the inverter to something that runs to the earth. A common approach if you have copper plumbing would be to connect the ground wire to the plumbing. If you don't have copper pipes the other approach is to use a metal stake driven into the ground. Hope that helps

@jtechlabs1 well thank you didn't expect such a quick response. My main concern was the ground . I'm waiting for a response from York asking if there is anything that would Hinder this from working. Again thank you reply.

Glad I could help!

Yes, it is important to make sure that the references you use for calibration are accurate.

@@jtechlabs1 Okay, so in your video you didn’t make mention of how you ensured your power supply and the other load were calibrated. This is really important for people to know before they start mucking with the calibration of the load they receive, as they may end up making the device less calibrated than the out-of-box calibration.

I appreciate you pointing out the importance of good calibration. I will keep that in mind for future videos.

I will order one.

It only supports RJ45

Can you link to a photo? Where did you buy it? It would help me try to identify the controls.

Thanks for your feedback

You're welcome!

768 Watt Hours corresponds to 64 Amp Hours (@ 12 V). Manufacturers typically test based upon what is called a 20Hr capacity rating. That would use 5% of the Amp Hour rating. So that would be 3.2 A The cutoff voltage for 12V lead acid batteries is 10.5V If you want to run the test a little faster without too much loss in accuracy you could go to a 10 hour test so that would be 10% of the Ah rating and thus 6.4 A.

Yes

I have not, however, there is a thread www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/atorch-dl24-electronic-load-software/ where people discuss the software produced for the DL24. Seems that even with the vendor software it is challenging.

Thanks for your feedback. I wasn't able to find a dedicated continuity mode on this meter.

@@jtechlabs1 Yeah, you're right. I was thinking of the average "auto" meter and forgot this one's limitations. Sorry about that.

@@uni-byte Thanks for confirming.

Thanks for your feedback. The Uni-T UT117C is absolutely a better meter. It is also 5x the price of this T58B. I am sure that you will be very happy with the 117C. Uni-T makes a broad range of equipment and the more expensive ones have a very good reputation. I just ordered a UT161E for a future video.

@@jtechlabs1 the new mulitmeter is now sitting on my shelf. it is a nice multimeter for sure, fast and acurate, but im not overhappy with the display, it is kinda foggy, not as sharp as expected, and view angle could have been better. it is a miner issue, but still in a priserange as this they need to do better.

@ I am sorry to hear that the display is not sharp. I agree it is not something in keeping with the price. Glad to hear that the performance is otherwise good.

Have you tried the pointers on the atorch website? There are instructions for both iOS and android. en.atorch.cn/Download.aspx?ClassID=11

I did a little more digging and I found this link that appears to lead to some PC software. www.mediafire.com/folder/1c04afq923397/A3