วีดีโอ

I love mine as well - I had heard it might be discontinued a few years ago, so I ordered a few more narrower heads for it. I never did buy the bracket to hold it to the MFT - it seemed really expensive for what it was (as I recall). I just clamp down some smooth surfaces for the Vacuum pods to hold on to when I'm using them. I'll eventually build something more permanent. I use mine mostly for sanding and edge-shaping with a trim router. I never heard why it was discontinued - I assumed that it was a price issue. I have the main kit, plus the 2nd vacuum unit, plus a couple of extra heads for doing longer narrow pieces where both vacuum pods are needed.

It’s a really delightful collection. I have some of the ones that you show and they are good to use. If I may, a few opinions: The quality of the cut is the most important - perhaps the only important - factor. That quality is the result partly of the quality of the chisel but more about the accuracy of the sharpening and your technique The choice of steel for the blades is quite personal. Softer means sharpening is easier but has to be done more often. Harder steel is exactly the opposite. Personally, I prefer medium hardness. The quality of the wood for the handles hardly affects the quality of the cut. Nightly figured wood looks nice but is, in itself, no better or worse, than any other hard wood Chisels with a metal ring at the top or a metal top which is part of the blade itself are designed to be hit with a mallet or small hammer. Other fully wooden handles can be used with a smaller mallet but you will see the effect on the handle after time. Japanese or western style? For most of us, it is a personal choice which doesn’t affect greatly the end result. I have both styles and, truthfully, I couldn’t tell whether the end result (the joint or whatever) was cut with which style. The most expensive chisels should come absolutely ready to use. My experience is that is not always the case. The initial sharpen/hone is critical. The bottom couple of cm should be flat (slightly different for Japanese style). The bottom of the blade should be square to the sides. The angle of the primary bevel does vary from style to style and, in my 45 years of experience, it matters little if it’s 25, 26, 27, 30, 32 degrees or anywhere in that range. Consistency and sharpness are far more critical than a particular degree angle The secondary bevel idea didn’t exist when I started. I do put secondary bevels of my chisels as I find that it’s quicker (therefore more likely to happen) to touch up a secondary bevel whilst in use. Honing gauge. I only have about 10. I used the Veritas mark 2 for several years but found that ensuring the squares of the blade to the jig was hard because the smaller locking wheel was…small. About a year ago I bought the Manoo jig through Banggood and that will see me very nicely until I’m finished. In fact, I bought 2 guides - 1 with the wheels set inside for plane blades and 1 with wheels set outside for chisels. There are many ways of sharpening and I’ve tried them all. I’ve got a Tormek T8, oil stones. Whetstones, scary sharp and diamond stones. I’ve really come down now to just using the Tormek and the diamond. Oil stones and whetstones need maintenance and some preparation (I.e. allowing the water stone to soak up water): scary sharp are good but I damage them too easily. Diamond stones are ready immediately and even I haven’t managed to damage one. I use the Tormek, fitted with a CBT wheel, to establish the primary bevel or restore one if I’ve damaged it. That takes me to 1000 grit. I then use the Manoo jig to establish the secondary bevel (something around 2 degrees less than the primary bevel). I go through the grits from 1000 to 3000. I then hone on a scrap of leather with honing paste smeared on it. I have my chisels in trays exactly as shown on the video. Just a personal choice, but I like taking a tray and putting it on my bench and have all the sizes ready there. If I’m using a chisel for quite a few cuts, I will hone the blade on the 3000 grit diamond stone and the strop with them sat next to me on the bench. Frequent and quick - much better for me than seldom and taking longer. My final observation is that the Blue Spruce ones are the best for opening paint cans. I just find that the thinness of the blade means you can really wedge it into the gap between lid and can.

Careless whisper!!! (First musical excerpt reminds me of that tune). Nothing beats a chisel!

does the use of this base rise the scale more than standard?

Where did you buy the adaptor

Incredible collection. What do you do for a living, if you don't mind me asking? Is this your job?

That's a lot of chisels - what method do you use to sharpen them? I finally went with a set of 3 Shapton glass stone plates that work well for chisels and hand plane irons. I use a Tormek for my lathe tools... sharpening is not my favorite thing to do, but necessary of course. I discovered the Veritas chisels and hand planes a while ago - marvelous tools.

my sliding table was higher than the main table to the point that i had to send it back to festool for repair. ultimately they had to replace the sliding table completely. and it had to be sent from germany.

Is the ct 26 much biger and heavier of the midi ??? I need for GO ON vacum cleaner .... Thanks on video

It seems that everything PB Swiss sell is the best but their red bit holders that you show really are the best!

Have you been using it for the past 5 months? apparently festool doesn't recommend this because it can destroy the break. But just got the 125 and am considering to get the pad. Have you had any problems?

I've got most of Lie Nielson's hand planes and their saws, but the price of that shooting plane, no. I bought a Veritas at half the price and love it, especially the adjustable tote on it. Thanks for sharing your unboxing. Beautiful shooting plane. I hope it's working for you.

Hello, good video. I have the same year model as you. However, i had an issue after changing my burss, my grinder is giving a coarse grind even when my burrs are contact to contact

Awesome video! Not a second of my time waisted.

Brand new tools..why don't you use them?

I initially thought this was a lathe... took me a minute. I'm gathering this is a special heavy-duty machine for sewing sail cloth for boats? Interesting...

Thanks for the reply,wasn’t trying to be a smart Alec ,just pointing out a simple mistake. All good!😁👍🏾

You got your bevel up and down mixed up on your viedo. Bevel up should be on the 164!👎🏿

A little bit of a language barrier, but I was able to follow along. I never knew the difference between the generations, but now I do. Thanks for the info.

I was able to buy the drill/driver set on sale. Seems like a hidden gem for the sale price.

This video cost me quite a bit of money, but it's really appreciated. Ordering some stuff now. Btw that was very well done with the items in the description.

Fence is TOED (slightly) on purpose - safety. All the European saws I use are adjusted in that way. Does NOT affect accuracy since only the leading teeth do actual cut.

Hi Hans. Thank you for two of your anti frantic videos in a half hour. Good work!

Hi Hans. Awesome presentation. In a youtube world of glib talking caos THANKYOU for a truly relaxing and informative session. I wish that all youtubes were like yours. The music was fantastically relaxing.

I have the Gen 1 version of that tape measure. I wonder what the differences are - I see the memory buttons are moved to the face (from the top). The button selecting the measure point from the front or back of the body of the tape was on the front, as well as the button giving you the centerpoint of the measurement. I got this to replace an old Starrett digital tape that I loved.

Mickey Mouse Table Saw...SMH

Why on earth would you adjust the fence to suit the sliding table, you dont use the two together? The fence and slider should be calibrated from the blade,

Please dont adjust the fence to 90°!!! its slightly off by design in order to keep wood from getting stuck and kickback between fence and blade. This is dangerous.

Is your slider flat across its width I've looked at 5 new saws now. and they have all been concave about 19 thou...

Working on the adjustments now - at about 1:00 in the video, on adjusting the slider, your captions say use a T5 screwdriver - mine took a T20 (Edit: T20 is correct). Also, how much did you turn the adjustment screws on the side? The screws seem very loose, and I don't see any change. Did you turn it a LOT? Thanks -

Very helpful! I also found on mine that the measurement on the fence was off by 1/16". It was simple to adjust with the screws holding the strip down. I wish someone would develop a micro-adjustment knob and/or a digital readout for the fence. So far, the fence is the part of the saw I like the least, but it is workable.

Gửi cho một cái

That is not necessarily true all metal tarnish or rust the oil helps keep it in a shape in this gentleman is doing a fine job ensuring that his tools stay in top condition. on all mine I use camellia oil which I feel leaves a very nice film with no buildup. Also I like the fact that he only uses a drop or so on the rag that's all it takes to really do this job well done Columbus Michigan

There is no need to oil the bronze , only cast iron and the steel blades.

Thank you. So important. So I assume we can go the other way too. 150mm to 125mm?

Thanks!!! I will go and do this right now. Probably a big old mess in my Rocky after that last few years of use.

This is a recently cleaned machine. In real life, if it's been left awhile, there will be caked coffee residue everywhere requiring a good scrape and rub with a cloth, and vacuum cleaner work. Second, the burr screws can be very tight. If so, you may need to apply a soldering iron to them for a few minutes to loosen the "coffee Loctite". Third, the calibration can be much less simplistic than shewn here. You need to check that the burrs just don't touch, and then adjust the stop on the underside of the hopper accordingly. The pointer may then not point at zero - you'll have to mark the scale with a wax pencil to shew the discrepancy. You can't adjust the scale unfortunately.

Amazing video!