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It may seem counterintuitive, but a fine spray of water-based acrylic varnish will seal the ink jet print without the ink running. But it is easy to overspray, so build up layers gradually allowing them to dry in between.

@@paterpracticus W&N Galeria Acrylic Gloss Varnish it is then, thanks for the advice. I've airbrushed varnish many times with my cheapo airbrush so I'm well versed in using it. I kind of wasted £7 on a tiny spray can of clear lacquer then but nevermind.

I've actually done a follow-up video exploring exactly this - th-cam.com/video/nNOTgvWWnAk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fTkbS0PJCwdrRGff But, wouldn't it be great if someone did come up with an (affordable) 5 colour printer - with white?

yes it's strange that most printer manufacturers just don't produce a white ink cartridge that goes in the place of the black one like Ghost White in Germany do. Oddly enough I've already watched that follow up video of yours today and I saw that video of you putting the 'Castrol' logo decal on the side of the green truck and I thought to myself 'there's no difference in the two decals he's putting on first one white decal, second one clear decal and then I realized I guess you were doing it to tidy up the white circle rim (that u manually cut out) with the green on the clear plastic decal. And I'm thinking to myself, 'what a tonne of work for such little detail'. I'm getting worried as my HP Laser Jet 200 is getting really old and is starting to show signs of giving up and I don't know how many more runs it has with the Ghost White Toner I bought for white decal printing. I got myself an ink jet for graphics printing but for decals that ads another stage where you sadly apparently have to seal the ink on the paper.

Yes, for ink-jet you do have to seal the print. I use an acrylic varnish, airbrushed onto the surface. It is an extra stage, but not that difficult.

It would actually better to remove the detail from the background print, rather than the transparency, so the red type is on a solid white circle. But as in my reply to a similar comment I wanted to demo by using exactly the same files to keep it simple.

I could have, but I wanted to show how using exactly the same files, printed on white and transparent would work with any design.

Glad you liked it.

Glad you liked it. Laser prints are good, but also prone to scratching. I now coat mine with a very thin air-brushed varnish too just to protect them.

That’s good to know.

White lettering is the most challenging aspect of making your own decals. The only way is to match the background as best you can as at the end of the video. It requires a bit of trial and error, but the results can be quite effective.

It might be an alignment issue. When you guide the pin back in, wiggle the mixer a bit, it should line up and slide in.

Interesting. I've got some of that, so I'll give it a go.

I must try that.

Not to everyone’s taste. The vacuum formed windows are looking a bit dated now, but I think better than the old factory fitted units.

Good tip. Always new life to be got out of an old model - and needn’t be expensive.

Needle file is a call. Some of the thumbnails (2/3 in my test) have better close-ups of the front windows, but I’ll share some on Twitter too (link in bio). There is still a perceptible edge with the glue ‘n’ glaze, but much better than the gap left around just the Flushglaze on its own.

Yes, I saw that too in the edit. Doesn’t actually show much IRL. Next time I’ll use something to protect the frame.

Thank you. Yes, results from eye op all very good!

@@hillsidejunctionrailway I’ve only done locos so far. Coaches sounds interesting!

Yes, the software hasn’t been updated for ages, but still works fine with the current Raspberry Pi Zero - although not on the Zero 2. However, there is a link in the description to an updated version, although I’ve not tried it.

Glad it was helpful.

Glad you liked it. You could of course paint the background first under the decal - in my case a white circle - but that does add a whole extra job.

Glad you think so!

Sure. I've just added the list to the description, but here it is as well: Raspberry Pi Pico Adafruit Universal USB / DC / Solar Lithium Ion/Polymer charger 3.0V 100mA Poycrystalline Solar Cell LiPo battery - 3.7V 500mAh

Indeed. We have another one that is quite high, requiring a step-ladder - but still much easier to get to from inside than out!

It is a bit of an addition to what is mostly an experimental layout. Sacrificing realism for some interaction. At some point I’m going to replace the gates with barriers, which I hope to automate too. Bear with me!

Great idea. Not all printers can handle smaller sheets than A4, but great if yours can.

Glad you liked it. Really is very straightforward, and opens up all sorts of possibilities for older stock.

If you're interested, take a look at my guide to adding lights as well: th-cam.com/video/8dTK5x7LNgM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2rwpXf7TwahmfsDU

Excellent. Glad it was helpful.

Glad you found it useful. 110k ohm should be perfect.

Excellent. Glad it was useful.

Good to know. Thanks.

Glad you liked it! The sockets make life so much easier.

I’m sure there are electronic solutions for DC too, but it is one of the advantages of DCC to have constant supply for lights etc.

Just been thinking, there's no reason this couldn't work for DC, although the lights would only be on while the loco is in motion. Might need some sort of voltage regulator to keep the brightness stable - and perhaps a capacitor to keep them on for a while after it has stopped.

Indeed. I hope lots of modellers will dust off their older locos and give it a go.

Thanks very much. Really pleased you liked it.

Thanks very much. Glad you liked it.

Great. Glad it helped.

Great tip. Thanks.

make a vid lol

Yeah waterslide decal paper is very thin. A clear coat makes them almost blend right in

You may be able to get them from a craft shop, but failing that they are readily available online - search 'waterslide decal paper'. Just make sure you get the InkJet type. The decal surface itself is very thin, most of the bulk being the carrier paper. Very much like the transfers for Airfix kits etc.

@@paterpracticus thanks for the quick reply. I take it if I use an inkjet printer I will have to seal the surface else the ink will run when placed in water?

Yes, the same acrylic varnish is good for both InkJet and laser printing. You don't actually have to seal laser prints, but it does protect the surface. You definitely have to for InkJet - check out my previous video here: th-cam.com/video/BriLaf8wvy0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=H0kPOmzQgri_LegM

@@paterpracticus fab thanks, will check out the other vid! :)

Excellent. I was really confused when I started using the Pico. Still baffles me sometimes, but it opens up some really exciting possibilities when you get the hang of it.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes you can, but keep the layers light. I’ve found it is easy to over-coat with aerosols, making the ink bleed a bit.

Thank you ​@@paterpracticus

Glad you enjoyed it

I got mine from eBay - search ‘Bosch fridge LED’ - but you can also get them from Amazon or direct from Bosch - although expect to pay a bit more.

You’re welcome. Enjoy the extra light!

Hi. I’m pretty sure it shouldn’t matter which macOS you’re using. Can I ask a couple of questions: is the Raspberry Pi booting up at all? Or, is it getting half way through and then returning an error? Also which Pi are you using?

@@paterpracticus Thank you for the quick response. No boot at all, the green led just flashes. I'm using a 3b+. Don't give this a lot of thought as I have tried this prior to watching your video after watching many windoze videos with the same results.

The supported devices (github.com/motioneye-project/motioneyeos/wiki/Supported-Devices) says the 3 B+ is covered with the 20200606 update. Did the basic motioneyeOS folders show up on the SD card when installed? If so, the problem is probably in stage 2 which is the WiFi configuration document. Weirdly this disappears after a failed boot, so that is something to watch out for.

@@paterpracticus Yes I have about 12 files on the sd card after burning. I've been very careful about the .conf and not .txt on the wpa_supplicant file . Appreciate your time with this.

No problem. After the failed boot is the .conf file still there, or has it disappeared when you put it back in the Mac?

Excellent! Glad it was helpful.