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Thank you for your comments. If I were a wealthy guy one of these guns would definitely be in the collection.

Thank you for your question, and I'm sorry for the delay answering. I don't remember on this video if I glass bedded the muzzle brake to fit the barrel, but it is something I often do. This results in a "rattle-proof" perfect fit while still being removable. I have removed plenty of muzzle brakes that were glued on, and that is no problem (drill a hole in a block of wood to fit the barrel diameter, split it in half, clamp it over the barrel, heat up the muzzle brake with a propane torch, and beat it off). As for whether a tight fit improves accuracy, I doubt it. Unless the thing is rattling during recoil, I can't imagine it would affect accuracy. However, there have been guns (like Whiscombe) that have adjustable weights as a muzzle brake to "tune" the frequency of the vibration of the barrel during recoil. Those do seem to affect accuracy. Mainly the muzzle brake on guns made for mere mortals is a cocking handle for break barrel spring guns and an appearance upgrade if not, and doesn't do much for accuracy. In my opinion. This is an area that everyone has an opinion, and I don't know that anyone is right or wrong. Shoot what ya' brought :-)

What actually is muzzle brake

Great idea on using a smaller oring. Thank you for your comment.

Thank you for your kind comments. Making one's own gunstock is a great experience and no matter how great (or not) the results, you'll end up with a stock that fits you and increased "pride of ownership", and that's the whole point. Although improved aesthetics are also a bonus :-)

@mckeowngunstocks Hello Sir, Thank you very much for caring to reply to me. If I may say so, Sir, making my own gunstock meant many things to me. I have had a love of woodwork all my life, though it was forbidden growing up. Children should be seen and not heard 's what I had to contend with. My twin brother was an artist and extremely successful, too. He had as much paper and as many pencils and paintbrushes as he could manage. However, chisels, drills, and saws were sharp, so I wasn't allowed near them. My journey began when I purchased my first home. With the only tuition from school, within twelve months, I'd built my own wardrobes, which are still in fine fettle today. My first gunstock build was for my Weihrauch HW97K and was like tip toeing. It was a huge relief to finish it and be happy with it. My second gunstock build was for the Weihrauch HW80K. This is an iconic 1980's eighties spring piston break barrel air rifle arguably never bettered. It was going to be made with hand tools only, where possible. I wanted to make Mr Weihrauch proud and show him what someone could achieve with passion and wanting to own one of these air rifles since being twelve years old. I wanted my air rifle stock to be exciting, exhilarating, dynamic, and eye-catching, but how was I going to achieve this? My air rifle gunstock would be based on predators! The cheekpiece front would have a Hawks claw. The pistol grip would in corporate the jumping thigh of a Puma. The front of the trigger guard would emulate the fangs of a Cobra or the front teeth of a Sabre Toothed Tiger. Finally, the front of the fore end would suggest the head of an American fish eagle. My gunstock was laminated with two layers of Ash and three layers of Walnut. With Christmas in-between, the build took around three months and so grateful it was a winter project. Each laminate took two hours to hand saw through. Five laminates equalling ten hours of hand sawing. In the pistol grip area, I kept drawing pencil lines and filing to them. I'd take off a bit more until they were right. Once the basic shape was formed with rasp files, I used metalwork Giles, then down through the different grades of sandpaper. I wanted the wood to breathe, so I treated my gunstock in linseed oil. The Walnut darkened and the Ash a little too? My rifle is in use now. While I was working on the stock, I sent the action to a gentleman called Mr Lyn Lewington in South Wales. He tuned the action and worked his magic. My air rifle works fantastic now. I adore owning it, and I love having it. It's nowhere near some of the gunstocks you can buy now in terms of quality and the use of CNC machinery. However, I was exhausted when I had finished. I'm so glad I did this as I had an end of life diagnosis with stage four, pancreatic cancer, and six yo twelve months to live. I was to told to book my place in the local hospice, write my will, and get rid of my wealth. Ten weeks later, I was called back in and told it probably wouldn't be what I would die of. I take each day as it comes comes now and am thankful of every one. I'm so glad I made my gunstocks. I love natural wood and using them. If you've gotten this far, thank uou for reading, and God bless.

Thank you! That's a great technique!

Nice. Thank you.

True enough, but I prefer doing it by hand because it seems like small increment of cut sometimes likes a pause after advancement and let the part spin a few times around and be completely finished cutting before advancing again. Plus by hand I can feel if resistance is increasing and I need to slow down, and when I get to the end of the cut I can slow down and ease down the final little bit of cut. But then I have never worked as a professional machinist and lack that level of experience, so some things I do are more from lack of experience and confidence than good ideas. I will try power feeding cut offs next time and see how I feel about it. Sometimes our fears are unfounded, and I do have a way of finding the hard way to do things :-) Thank you for your comment!

Thank you for your comment, and yes, I kept that little hole clear. The heater has been working fine for quite a while now. We're coming up on fall fly fishing weather, so the heater will soon get a good workout.

Great suggestions! Thank you for your comments!

I've taken to carrying my spare mag in left appendix (the gun in right appendix), so the magazine doesn't tend to rattle like it did when in a pocket.

I did not. My next plan is to offer both of my Monsoons as a package deal. One of them has a very expensive feather crotch custom stock which has high dollar value but very low resale value on an older airgun that seems to have fallen out of favor. There are a lot of cooler semi-autos on the market now, but I still love the simplicity of FX's blowback solution.

​@@mckeowngunstocks HI Again,if you were possibley to sell them seperatley what would you be asking for one?my own interests in mind.i am in the Uk though,so the task of shipping would be have to be thought of....r.e.cooler semi auto,i think ED GUN just blast them through a self indexing magazine these days..i agree on liking FX's though,ive a cyclone and dont think id part with that due to all the time ive spent on it,it feels a part of me :)

@@davidwoodward7020 Please write me at mckeowngunstocks@gmail.com

@@mckeowngunstocks Hi,sorry for the slow reply.I didnt get any notification from you tube about your reply.However,ive mailed you via the address you gave me.I hope its got through!! :)

I love the scream of speed :-)

Re. your comment about any force causing enough flex etc., you are likely correct. But, we have to have a reason to do whatever it is we do, and the materials and methods I've developed for my repair work for my own rather made up reasons I'm pretty sure is a good repair, and I'm also pretty sure every gun ever fixed with a wood screw has survived. Re. your comment that there are "far easier ways to bond and match than the one I used", I have no doubt that is the case. We only know what we know. For some years before starting my channel I was afraid of being embarrassed and perhaps reflect poorly on my work when shown better ways by viewers. But then I realized that both I and my viewers would benefit from our collective experience. We can only know what we know, and in most cases that is far less than what we know as a community. I want to produce the best work I can, so have developed an open mind so I can be receptive to new ideas. Please share with us your easier and quicker method. FWIW, the techniques I used did create an awesome seamless repair, so it worked.

@@mckeowngunstocks Many years ago I was chatting with a friend , when a young woman appeared with her mother. The young lady concerned was carrying in her hands a plastic carrier bag containing what appeared to be match wood. Bursting into tears she sobbed out her story she played violin in an extremely well known orchestra. In the bag was the crushed remains of her violin, to be continued.

Further more the said violin was of very high value and to make matters worse it was on loan to her. Apparently after rehearsals she had put the violin on the floor then reversed over it with her car, I am sure you can imagine the result . Well my friend rebuilt that violin like a jig saw puzzle, and when he had finished it played as always and it really was quite impossible to see any scars, Jim was a very talented instrument maker and this job took several months, Naturally the young woman was delighted in fact I don't remember ever seeing anyone more relieved when she came to collect it. Jim used to repair my stocks for me, even stocks with missing pieces, I would find a suitable piece of timber whose shade and grain matched and Jim would work his magic. Jim taught me a little of what he did just enough to get by with, sadly Jim is no longer with us, but I have since met several stockers who are able to weave similar magic to Jim providing invisible repairs to badly shattered stocks. We are all very different people but have one thing in common we keep our knowledge to ourselves.

Shorter barrel increases accuracy in recoiling spring guns, not the opposite. As the gun begins moving before the pellet leaves the barrel, the faster we can get it out the better. Also, there have been tests done, and I've done it myself trimming a small amount of length at a time and measuring speed that about 9" barrel length seems an average of where we experience peak velocity with the shortest barrel length. As for the HW90 vs. HW80, there are lots of aftermarket parts available for the HW80, however your question is which is better for power and accuracy. The HW80 with a Vortek spring and non-lead pellets (smoother than lead accelerates faster) does 21-22 ft. lbs and is very accurate for what it is (heavy recoiling spring gun). I don't know that the HW90 provides much benefit over the HW80 in accuracy. The HW90's repair kit consists of o-rings, the HW80 consists of a spring, so maybe that might influence an opinion of which is better.

:-)

True re. pushout!

Thank you for your comment. I should have mentioned, as I have in other videos, my thoughts on pin material. Screws, threaded rod, and most bolts are of fairly soft material, and have a rod diameter equal to the minor diameter of the threads, so not as large as they look. My thought, born of no real world examples, is that if the pin material is soft and flexes that the wood could still break along the grain. Extended reach drill bits are inexpensive and widely available and are a ready source of extremely stiff drill rod (the un-twisted section). I've used them for years in a variety of applications in my different hobbies.

@@mckeowngunstocks Your thoughts are really not far from my own, So I tested the theory, Number 8 or 10 screws in brass do not bend that easily try for yourself the same with appropriately dimensioned threaded rod . I cant disagree with you about the steel in drill bits i have used them on occasion when they have been so wrecked as to be beyond salvage. But the hoarder monster in me baulks at cutting up good drills.

Thank you :-)

I put tritium sights on mine. I used a milling machine vise to push the old out and the new in.

Thank you for the information!

I keep a roll of surgical tubing on hand for the purpose. Thanks for sharing a great technique!

Thank you!