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Well, when you do get one, make sure you message me for any advice 🤙

@@wayoutwestiemike 💯😊

Take a look at this video for the central location I use. Around 30 seconds in to the video th-cam.com/users/shortsO5ZJRlKFBx0?si=YocGCqEuy8uvfjeO For a Weber ict setup guide take a look here : www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/

Thanks! You're guide is a godsend. One last question :) Is it necessary to fit an inline valve if using the malp. pressure regulator? If so would it go before the regulator or after?@@wayoutwestiemike

@Piczker08 yes it should go 30cm after the pressure regulator before the tpiece to the carbs. Here is a guide on where it goes: th-cam.com/users/shortsHlC9PLoh3MU?feature=share

Thanks, much appreciated!! @@wayoutwestiemike

Yes it has a malpassi petrol king pressure regulator. Stock pumps can put out up to 5psi and Weber icts need no more than 2.1psi of consistent pressure. I fit malpassi pressure regulators on all of my installs otherwise the needle valves get overpressure and leak. I build and install kits with everything you need here : www.wayoutwestie.com/product-category/weber-ict-kits/ All info you need on setting up Weber ICTs can be found here : www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/

Road tests completed before and after carbs and exhaust. Carbs were a great improvement during road tests on the stock exhaust, the dissy made it smoother. The vintage speed did provide additional gains in smoothness and power delivery when fitted. Not as much as a 4-1 or merged header for sure, but it's a 1600sp not a highly modified larger capacity motor. For daily driving of such a setup its perfect. I run a VS on my 2110cc and the difference between a 4-1 was negligible. I drive it long distance in a heavy bus so happy with the performance/ design as not looking for all out power and the drawbacks it can bring.

@@wayoutwestiemike There's obvious something wrong if your not getting any significant gains between a VS (big shiny stock exhaust) and a decent 4 into 1 with a decent muffler. Have proven this on a dyno? Yes, it's a stock 1600 engine in a bus. But why paid all that money for a VS exhaust in the first place if there's next to no gains. I agreed the dual carbs while small are a decent gain considering its a, stock engine and the dissy has bonuses all round such as improved torque, smooth accelorator from any rpm and better cooling due on piont timing that's best suited to a heavy bus which leads to better fuel consumption and longer engine life. Yes the VS is more open so therefore allowing the improved fuel burn thanks to the carbs & ignition to excape more easily than the stock exhuast. But it's only assistant is somewhat like a stock exhuast having a hole in the muffler and sounding better. There's no assisted scavenging effect going on with a VS. So my piont is you could achieve similar performance improvement as the VS simply by using a twin tip stock exhaust and replacing the restrictive twin Pee shooters with straight pipes in place of the baffled Pee shooter - try it! It's a lot cheaper option and when mixed with the dual 34ICT's and SVDA dissy as you have, it a best bang for $$ spent for torque / Hp gain. If wanting to go beyond this then step straight up to a decent 4into1 and dual 40IDF's and the stock 1600 will wake up to another level. However, as you mentioned the stock bottom end might not be up to it. Please keep your vids coming because I do believe your vids is all good info for the VW community.

Road test in an awesome customers' bus!

Thoroughly recommend them to avoid long-term issues with floats 🤙

Glad you enjoyed it 🤙

Awesome! Great looking bug!

The reason for 30cm is to ensure you get a constant pressure. If you fit the pump and regulator right next to eachother and then test the fuel pressure you with either get fluctuations or not be able to set it low enough. The one way valve is an added piece of insurance against carburettor needle/float failure. If a float or needle fails, when you switch off your engine, fuel will continue to flow until the pressure drops. This fuel will make its way down the manifold, past your piston rings and in to your oil. Unchecked this can kill an engine. The one way valve operates at 2psi so essentially stops the flow of fuel when you turn your engine off. Safer and more protection. I always advise regulator checks of the oil level and a sniff test as well as looking down the throats of the carbs to ensure there are no leaks. Heat spacer gaskets, ethanol resistant additive and correct fuel pressure really help protect the carb internals🤙

@@wayoutwestiemike thanks Mike... That makes sense 👍🏻

Had loads of people ask so it was about time! 😁

@@wayoutwestiemike couldn't be more timely for me! 🙂

See my comment. This video is all but totally wrong.

Love a bit of old school!

They are Weber icts with CB Performance linkage, filters and manifolds 🤙 www.wayoutwestie.com/product-category/weber-ict-kits/

Ah wow what an awesome adventure! I plan to head to Norway when I can so will deffo look you up! So glad the videos are of value to you, if there is anything you'd like to see specifically please dont hesitate ask! 🤙

@@wayoutwestiemike Absolutely! I'll be over on the west coast in Stavanger if you ever make it over here. One thing I would really like to see covered is an overview of what oils and greases/lubricants to use. A lot of the videos I see are often from a US perspective and some of the products they use aren't always available in the UK. I fear I'll have the same challenge when I bring the bus over to Norway so before I do that any opportunity to stock up on any particular lubricants that are recommended would be good. Likewise if there are any to avoid that would be good too. Cheers!

Huco are no longer my go to as the low pressure versions are all faulty and have been pulled by most suppliers. I use a cb/carter rotary now.

Date coded 2021, hose oversize + undersized clips meaning they were over-tightened + more than 45 degree bend which is outside the bend index rating.

I don't think so, it needs to be circular so you can use a lever and it takes quite a pull to pop off the cap.

Ali is ok but is so easy to break, next time buddy!

Had some on or the last 3 years, such a good investment!

That would have been a more accurate video title!😁

Original door and runners help as very hard to make straight if replaced. It's funny not many people know about the inside latch!

No worries! Anything else you'd like to see?

Haha only if you don't like your neighbours 🫣

Having just changed the fuse box on my 1970 I feel your pain!

Nice one, anything you'd like to specifically see?

@@wayoutwestiemike I do have a question about how to inject grease into the centre nipple on the front axle, do I need to turn the wheel to align parts so as grease can get in?

​@@bring_everythingI will make a video for you, T25 or baywindow?

@@wayoutwestiemike 71 Early Bay, thanks again, I can get the grease in all the other nipples but this one just won't allow me to pump the grease, the pressure is to great. I have the axle on stands so as I can access the nipple and I have wondered if that is the issue.

@ikiljilkil OK buddy I will take a look for you!

I'm on it, lots more to come!

Yes I've been to Scotland to service a camper before!😀