วีดีโอ

Wow... You have no Danish accent at all. Usually I can recognize the form kilometres away

As a chemist, It doesn't eat into your CPU die for several reasons: 1. CPU die doesn't contain aluminium 2. even if it did (as a dopant or something), the CPU die that you see when you open the CPU is actually the backside, all the important circuits are on the bottom, stuck to the socket. It will oxidise copper, but that's about it.

"opinionated based on experience" uneducated experience. just see the result without understand why there are stains on the cpu and the heatsink. also have no idea what it is but clueless evidence. well. this is why fake news everywhere. the "pump out" you are talking about is just the result of the useless machine trying to spread liquid metal on the die without human confirmation. thats all

im using ptm 7950 for my omen 2016 and my msi raider, and got huge perfomance jump, can overclock both of them and even in summer with 42c outside, the laptop never reached 90 or above using 80w on cpu side and 170 on gpu side (raider) and 45w cpu and 75w gpu on the omen, the ore you use the laptop the cooler it gets

Liquid Metal does perform better but migrates into the Silicon as well as heatsink, creating hotspots. A hotter chip accelerates the migration and the resulting "dry-out", which makes it a bad decision for regular maintenance. I agree that a composite or PTM should have been used. The issue we see in this video will be the fate of many, many PS5 in the upcoming years

PTM7950 reminds me always of Radeon HD 7950.

I understand why 2nd test has higher gpu tems gpu wattage in 1st test was literally half of what 2nd was pushing and difference is minimal or even better without any hassle of destroing your machine I'll take it as win still my assumption that gpu utilisation being lower could be cpu I don't if it is really

Interesting, good to know liquid metal is not worth bothering with - not that it would matter with the computer stuff I usually mess around with

man i was lookinng for this and you have post this video only 2 hours ago.

I don't know anything about computer repair, but I really like your magic😆

Seems like the previous owner got the screws mixed up and screwed one that was too long for that position right into the flat cable. Replacing the thermal paste on such a relatively new laptop shouldn't be necessary anyways...

The rubbery blocks you found under the circuit board are thermally conductive pads, you can use them to bridge the space between a hot component and a heat sink. I like how the TV has the speakers in their own little plastic enclosures, that way they should still sound quite decent when used outside of the TV.

These little component testers may not be the most precise, but they are incredibly handy to identify unknown components and to get a first good idea of what you are dealing with 🙂

That's a good result! 👍

related ✋✋

interestingg

super good video, good music, great sense of humor.😆

Amazing video! Were there sparks inside the multimeter at 4:08? Also, which camera do you use for recording ?

dell is not bad.. its just the cheap consumer grade ones.. Dell rugged 7212 is nice!! and dell Adamo is nice too.. except the screen, bubble gate..

This was fun! I REALLY wanna get one of those LCR-TC3 things there, that looks SUPER handy! As for the magnetizer demagnetizer, It's gotta be with a part that does not already contain a real magnet. Take a normal screwdriver (or any ferromagnetic metal rod) that does not contain any magnets, and drag it along the sides of the magnetizing hole. Repeat for a while, I think? I can't remember, its' been like, 20 years since I've used one. It should now be magnetized! If so, then try the demagnetizer! Maybe catch a youtube video showing you how it works! There is a method to it! Anyways, keep up the great work! :D Looking forward to more videos!

You meant to say you've 'shocked' yourself multiple times! 💥~ Electricuted? You can only die once. ⚡😵

You were not scammed; as others have mentioned, it's simply a lack of knowledge on how to use these devices.

Well your Pine64 has this guys stamp of approval. I dont use ali-express much anymore after I was scammed out of $10.93 but yes I will agree most Chinese manufactured items are garbage and sadly the once reputable Amazon Prime has become just as bad as ali-exoress. I'm top the point now if I really really need something I'd rather buy something used locally that was manufactured ANY PLACE other than china. Most recently I went through a 48v wheelchair charger swap-a-thon due to the one I have been using for years being dropped causing pcb to crack. I went though 4 Chinese garbage chargers that in some cases if left charging the bat would have resulted in damaged bat or worse. They all went back to Amazon before finding a used replacement of the same Japanese manufactured charger that was manufactured back in the 90's and now my old charger can become a "hopefully not needed" parts charger....

You probably didn't get scammed with that driver. What you have there is the driverboard for the LCD panel in that device (Apple tablet?). That connector is a 30 pin LVDS connector. It goes in the panel controller of the LCD panel in the device. You probably have to give the driver board 12v DC and a HDMI/VGA signal. If you open up the device and take out the LCD panel, you'll find an type code on the back, that tells you what driver board it needs. This works for every LCD in tablets or regular desk monitors. (I have tinkered with taking apart LCD panels to get just the LCD matrix - those driver boards from AliExpress have all worked just fine for me)

Not exactly unexpected that a plain resistive heater element would draw above rated power on start when cold. Would be interesting to see an insulation test 500V/1000V/..., wires to body

For the Peltier module, you are supposed to attach heat sink and fans on both sides. The screwdriver at the end already has a magnet attached to it which sits under the bit, so it is only meant for regular screwdrivers with non changeable bits. I think you also missed the fact that the electric energy meter also has an app, and can connect to Wi-Fi.

To be known: holder has a magnet inside, to hold the bit in, bit becomes magnetized, does pickup screws if you only did use the bit to try

Those usb cable testers are ok to check broken cables that have disconnected pins but I hope they will do MCU based that can detect if cable is miss connection. Basically quick test for own cable mods or shorted wires. I think there was some old RJ45 tested that used 4017 to test individual wires. Also PTC heaters will take more power when it's warming up.

🎉🎉🎉

Su naujais metais! 😆 lauksim nauju istoriju

Hey, I'm trying to open mine as well. Are there screws in the holes where the front dust shield goes in? I saw 4 small screws but after removing them the 2 halves don seem to split

you have x230 with the older kb!

How about the spacebar key?

i just love when people use the old iPhones for good work good job my friend keep it up

I like rust too😆

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I love watching your videos, talented guy 👍😁

One more laptop revived! Nice job

Now they do have repairable earbuds! Called Fairbuds

👍

Puikus darbas ❤

Omggg it’s way better than the old speaker! Smart idea:)

Hello I’m from Miami Fl and it doesn’t even get cold here and I had to fix my thermostat and I was just scrolling thought TH-cam and found your video after I just fix mines last week lol their fun

good stuff bro.

On a different unit, the marking was UAAC CEH, yours is UAAF CCH. I'm leaning towards OnSemi's FUSB302BMPX with top mark "UA" in WQFN14 package, described as Programmable USB Type‐C Controller w/PD. I found one listing on Aliexpress with markings UAAD GNB in matching font, so I'm fairly confident that's it. Please comment if you decide to replace it!

Funi

I laughed at "Shit the bed and now I have to clean it" And "Don't touch it" 🤣

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