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Nice vid! I was panicking when I sprung some leaks. The company's video makes it look so easy. Did you put more mortor on top of the cut off plugs after?

Great video! Thanks for posting all the extra details. My 23 year old house has several of these leaks in unfinished basement, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to fix myself.

I have the same problem on my 2015 Kia Sedona. I’ll try to do it myself. Thank you for the video.

Thank you for making this video! It didn't technically help me with my issue but I can see it helping another person. If you have any thoughts on what to try for a wheel that is not spinning on one side although the voltage is good from the connector it seems and that wheel spins when I plug it into the other side so it's not the wheel itself. I don't know if it's something in the joystick, this model is a child's bumper car and it has a remote which doesn't get it moving either. Going to test voltage on the joystick next but wasn't sure if that is the issue since the remote didn't work it either but maybe 😅

This is actually a major problem at my work. I work at a nursing home and when you put the shower to the perfect temp it does that but way worse.. so bad it will move the dial making the water hot.. I will definitely tell our maintenance guy.

Hopefully this works, I have 2 cd players not reading discs…thanks!

We have a leaking sight glass. This was helpful, thanks.

Hi Craig Thanks for your video, and all the warnings and pitfalls. I started to remove plastic panels today ready for the new shocks, just waiting on a lower bush where oil from the shock compromised the rubber. My R Class 320 cdi similar setup to yours. Over here in Australia, thanks again. Steve.😁

Hello, what is the model no of the saw? Thanks!

Thank you so much this helped tremendously I was driving on the freeway and the door slid open i couldn't for the life of me figure out what was wrong it's at night cold raining and here I am with needlenose pliers trying to push the latch. It kept beeping the whole time we were driving! thank you so much for this it worked!! You rock dude thank you for saving my life!

Thankyou for such a great video. Wires were broken and shorting at the same spot and have just fixed by cutting the cord and joining with solder splicers and heat shrink wrap. Saved over $400 here in Australia. Many thanks again.

Thank you so much for posting this video. I had almost given up on searching on how to fix this older model and had my husband figure it out but I persevered and found your video and fixed mine too thanks to your trial and error steps!

I need to do the same thing. Question…. Can those be capped ? If so how would you tackle it?

What if you can't get the glass piece high enough to take the glass out. It seems jammed.

Thx for the video. fwiw, I always apply the foam first … wait 24h, cut off the excess then the foam provides a backing for the caulk. With the foam for windows you are using the foam doesn’t expand that much. I don’t use screws either because I find the foam will be sufficient to hold the window but the purists will be horrified. To each his own.

Thank you❤

the things seem to be made to fail. The courd should be a modular refit.

Why didn’t u remove the screen completely

Got the same issue with my van... attempting this after watching this video.

Cut the swivel out , splice the wires and encapsulate connection in west system

Good job, I have removed the first one you had trouble with and now I need to repair the screen, I’m thinking to do the same thing you did, thank you for sharing, the only thing I would have done differently would have been to clean the tracks, I’m a freak clean.

how did you separate the 2 layers of the lid? It seemed so easy, but I can't do it or find the magic touch.

Many thanks from Nova Scotia. Quick snip to the wire before bed now I don’t have to wake up to that horrible noise anymore!

I ran into the same issue and step by stepped it like you have just jot finished jyst yet but wanted to share domething ive noticed. I had a cord off another robotic pool cleaner found the brown middle wire had a break not sure exacyly where yet so i temporarlily eliminated it. I used a stand alone wire and the good coord from other bot which was 2 wire not 3 from the other bot we had and bam still had an error 10. I spliced into the connectors from original coord just at the ends where it plugged into the control head and motor.Then started to notice an issue where cord plugs into the control unit. That I was seeing voltage jump at the 4 pin connector itself. Well, I have a little more diagnostics to go but I wanted to also share this....the piss poor designed cable. The 3 wires are sealed all together in an insulated core...with then a much thicker outer layer but the engineering Einsteins didn't adhere that core to the inner one. Where cord goes to the bot I had water traces all the way up the wire of at least 10 yo 14 feet between the two insulator cores. Well with years of plumbing under my belt when I started at 13 years of age when I dropped a pulp down a well and connected tge wires from pump to pressure switch the connector were cramped and the the heat shrink tubing was heated with a torch and those connectors were permanently sealed with gllue indidevdnd rubber coating tubing outer...ensures no arc out even if the metal butt connector breaks that seal insulator heat shrunk tubing was thicker then the insulated wire itself. These geniuses didn't do that and I've noticed the same thing in other videos. Tgough the repairers didn't there words were wet mine still being wet after bring out of the elements for days...Sad really they just keep producing these things knowing they have sn issue but won't address it

Many thanks for the great tips and video, it works for me! It saved a lot of money! 👌🙏

I couldn’t pull the trigger. My pump motor went today. 2hp Hayward. I’ve got a big pool, and a new single speed replacement was $375. I would need the $2,000 Hayward variable speed pump, and In NY we run the pool 4 months a year, maybe 5. Even if I saved $50 a month it would take me 8 to 10 years to break even and I would be willing to bet the pump will need to be replaced before then. Having said that, I love a new toy and I’m jealous. How is it? Worth the upgrade?

Another way that works sometimes, use the terminal tool but before you do soak it good with penetrant. Take 2 ball peen hammers (very carefully) and hold one against seized collar tightly and tap across from it while rotating occasionally. Use a flush mounted nut or bolt on shaft for puller to seat on. I worked at NAPA for years and dealt with a lot of rear wiper arm problems. Chrysler mini vans were the biggest problem!

Need help!! Got the same error, I bought a new cable and tried it on, the error code doesn't go away, I also tried to check if the motor is working, that's fine too, i don't see to understand what else the problem might be, I'm not ready to fetch a lot of $$$ for a new one, my gut says it's something to with the circuit board or the control board itself, does anyone have any other experiences...any suggestions plzzzz

I want to remove the screen frame to properly replace the screen.

I have had similar issues a few years back (I have a Zodiac one, just another name). Same issue, that I could not find the right connector. I cut and soldered the wire inside the connector, it is still working. But found out recently that the original connector can be ordered, at least in Europe (I am in NL). If interested this is the partnumber R0828000 W (Prise côté bloc moteur ZODIAC Vortex 3-4WD et 4-4WD). It also has an additional flexible item at the elbow to relief the pressure on the cable there.

Excellent video and helped me fix my 9550. I found the same issue but all three wires had cracks in them where it bends as enters the robot. Thanks for doing this... you saved me big $$$$ from having to buy a new cable or robot. Those pins are not easy to work with...as others have said buy a 20$ crimper and save some frustration.

Beauty used this on my own car !

You had mentioned something that you were going to put a link of a guy fixing the detangler. Could you give me that video link, possibly? Thank you.

Great video. You did a great job. Thank you.

This is exactly what I need to do to my basement stairs! Thanks for taking the time to record and post!!!!

OK, so what I need to know how to get the replacement blade out of the packaging case. So close, and yet so far. Any help available?

Sir, you saved me from lots of f-words and spending lots of money. Thank you! I have more or less the same cleaner, that is known under the Zodiac Vortex name in Europe (in my case the exact model is RV 5500). Error 10 started to appear occasionally at first but after some time it became permanent. Just turn it on, press Start, and bam. My cleaner started the 8th season this spring and has been out of warranty for a long time. So I was ready to try to fix it by myself in any way. I suspected the cable to be faulty from the start, but haven’t had any proof of that. Just was thinking either I want to spend ~400€ for a replacement cable or invest in a new cleaner in case of the worst scenario. Once I’ve found your video, I was able to discover that two of the internal wires are short. However, I was getting solid 28V on the engine side. Also, I have noticed that when moving the cable back and forth at the holder, one of the wires drops its connection. A long story short - I’ve followed your repair guide and found all 3 internal wires were damaged at the entry location. The black one was almost completely cut. I have used a waterproof connector to reconnect them (Amazon: Cable Connector IP68, CESFONJER Junction Box Waterproof, Cable Sleeve Waterproof, with 3-Pin Connection Clamps for Diameter 5-10 mm Cable Diameter) after removing the damaged area. So officially the repair cost was under 10€ for me. But I’ve taken an extra over-engineering step and used isolating gel (Morek InsuGel One) to defer the next repair as far as possible by filling the connection box with it. The time will show. Currently, the second week is going after the repair. ~95% of the time the cleaner is inside the pool under the water. So far so good 🤞🏻 Thank you again and God bless you!

Random crao turns out to be not so random. I have the same vac. My issue was that it would not power on. I took apart the white power supply, looked fine. Then I took the de-tangler apart and found that one of the contact discs was a little dirty. Scotch Brite cleaning and reassemble. Works, for now. Hate to spend 1300 for a new one.

Lousy unit. It cut off many times while using under no rason

What's it weigh without the batteries in it?

Great video, but I can't remove the innner part of the cover. It looks very easy how you done it, but can't see it from your hand.

The whole lot easier if you take it 1'1/16 deep socket with a 2-in extension. Screwed off screw the new one on. Ain't no need for all that. Take 5 minutes

I followed this exactly and it solved my problem. Only difference is I soldered the wires instead of replacing the pins. thank you for the detailed video!

Thank you

Thanks for posting, very helpful! I have noticed what I believe to be a short between the black and the brown/grey pin - i think from your ohm readings that is NOT the way it is supposed to be? I'm presently going to try a) take apart the spinner per the other fella's video b) if that doesn't reveal the issue, i'm wagering the problem is like yours with cracked insulation near the entry to the robot. thanks for any tips!

It"s a Canadian Invented Tool

Review a Sawset Pro!

2024 and still good advice. Your “baby” would be 7 or 8 now! My salad spinner got a little too close to heat so it buggered up the rim. I took a heat gun to it and molded it a bit and now it works. That drill bit is very difficult to get back into place but watching what you did certainly helped. Cheers from 🇨🇦

You did a really good video! I changed out the power module because I wasn’t getting any display and that worked for that. But then I started getting the same error code so I’m troubleshooting from the module to the vacuum just like you and will probably wind up with the same result. But it’s better than ditching an $1100.03 year-old Polaris. There are several design flaws in this product. I hope they listen to their customers complaints and fix these problems. Again, great job!

Or $5 from aliexpress etc. The other important info is the sprocket on the motors. Generally they are differentiated by number of teeth and diameter of the gear. As for dissasembling these motors, they are only held together by a few bent metal tabs (one is located directly above the red dot by the terminal at 2:25.)