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You're welcome; thanks for watching.

Glad you found it helpful; thanks for watching.

You're welcome; thank you for watching.

You're welcome; glad you found it useful, and thank you for watching.

Your welcome. Thanks for watching.

Not sure I understand. You can adjust and undo the boolean, but there is currently no history, so you would have to hit ctrl+z to undo and re-adjust.

@pranavtyagofficial Thanks for watching. I plan to make a bunch more videos covering this subject. They take a lot of time to make, so I can't tell you how fast I will be able to post them. Another issue I have right now is we lack the analysis tools in Plasticity, for example the curvature comb. Without these tools it is had to show a lot of things. Take a look at this page, as it has a lot of valuable information. www.aliasworkbench.com/theoryBuilders/TB2_nurbs2.htm www.aliasworkbench.com/

My pleasure; thanks for watching!

@kingcognito Thanks for watching. I agree that, depending on your individual use case, you may need to rework the topology in some cases. If I were going to use models in a video game, I would probably rework them, but I usually make actual real-world physical models from my designs, so in my case, I don't need to. My main focus right now is to show people how to work with the tools in their current state of development.

I agree with the ngons and the amount of clean up required. Disagree about the game models needing to be much lower res - unless we’re talking about mobile. Most other platforms can handle polygons just fine and there is no need for jagged visible polyedges in modern games. In fact, it’s often sensible to save time and move to the next asset, rather than optimize everything down to their last vertices and/or go with few more polygons to avoid those long thin triangles that can clog up the shader pipeline.

@marsmotion You are correct, Plasticity is not a good fit for everyone. I always tell people to use whatever tools they are comfortable with. At the end of the day, it's the results that matter, not the tool you get there with. I also try not to tell people how things should be done because it's different for each person. At the end of the day people should just be creating great things and having fun doing it.

@stupidity_incarnate Thanks for watching!

My pleasure; thanks for watching.

@jameshakola3603 Thank you for the feedback! I'm a big Macross fan, for sure. It's something else I grew up on. I just finished the gun, and I am working on the VF-OS now so I can make a custom 4' tall version with my spin on the design. I like the idea of using a V-shaped scribe line. I had planned on doing a video of a few other methods as well, maybe I can add that method to the video. Thank you for the sub and for helping me grow the channel!

Thank you for watching! It's nice to know people are finding my videos useful!

You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.

You're welcome. Thank you for the sub!

@JoseMendoza-mc8ic I just uploaded the first video on single-span curves and hope to make one on single-span surfaces soon.

Once you get your UV mapping done, all you have to do is triangulate your mesh. That way, no matter what you're sending your model to, it will not matter.

got it ty~

Iif you triangulate your ngon mesh it may happen that some bevels will go crazy, i usually go in edit mode > select all > Ctrl Shif T (this command triangulate the mesh destructively and gives you a preciew of what the triangulste modifier will do) > ctrl Z to delete the triangulation (i just needed it to see what will happen in the future). if you have no bevels the object will be good 99% of the time even with ngons, if you have a 3 or 1 segments bevels be ready to do some type of manual triangulation in order to avoid sahding errors. In general ngons modelling is preferable for game assets with a lower tris count, it's a standard procedure to use ngons in modelling, uv mapping will be harder and sometimes manual triangulation gives you an headache.

I'm happy with the export results I am getting.

You're welcome! Good to hear it's helpful.

@@philprocariojr3563 very helpful!

Glad it helped!

Yes, look for GrimMoroe

@MatheooPL I'm not sure about the technical difference. When testing both, you will notice that they raise the degree by 1, but they do it differently, and I'm not sure exactly what that is. I'm getting an answer to this question now, though, and I will let you know what I find out.

@MatheooPL Nick Kallen got back to me on this. Raise degree does exactly what it says and subdivide adds spans. Spans - sub sections of the curve. Higher degree curves will have fewer spans (for a given number of CVs) and a greater degree of smoothness between spans.

​@@philprocariojr3563 I get it now. Thank you very much!

@@philprocariojr3563 By this I assume it would then be best to use the raise degree command for smooth surfacing? Great video by the way

@baril3d Actually, the degree of the surface is not what determines its smoothness. Higher degrees just allow for tighter bends in the surface. (More curvature)

@dbmd_uk th-cam.com/video/t-f86zb-4_g/w-d-xo.html I made this video to help describe what they are and how and when to use them. More will come later.

@iKaGe01 That's why you should export two models, one very high resolution and one lower resolution that is easy to UV map. Then, you can bake the high-resolution details to the lower-resolution model and not have that issue. At some point, I plan to create some tutorials on that subject. Maybe I can get some time this weekend to do one.

@@philprocariojr3563 That is still emulating detail though so will hamper close-ups etc unless it really is that good that the model will hold up to scrutiny even when done this way. Already use for example a bevel shader to add fillets on very sharp edges which does work

@iKaGe01 You said it is emulating detail, and although that is true, don't forget that in DCC apps like Blender, you have displacement maps, which will add physical details back at render time. A lot of people underestimate the power of displacement maps.

@@philprocariojr3563 Thanks for the replies. Would love a video about something along of that as I'm scared of doing all this CAD model to then have to downgrade for texturing. I've had some success with UVs with the high poly set to 1 but it has took a long while. Also the plasticity importer allows for selecting via island name which has made it a bit easier, even if with no seams, it seems to separate the model and you have to pin sections

@iKaGe01 Do you have a link with pics of the model you are working on?

@Contactbps I'm glad you found it helpful.

Indeed, it will. Thanks for bringing that up!

That's a good point, and it is quite a bit faster. Thank you for pointing that out.

While using the Offset function, you can also make BOTH interior and exterior curves at the same time by hitting Tab. Also, instead of using Trim to do cleanup, if your interlapping lines create a closed shape you can just select the interior blue shape/face (as if you were going to extrude it) and hit Shift+D. It'll automatically make a new closed curve based on the borders. Super handy for quickly getting a clean curve.

Is it not possible to select a point and move it along its axis or its normal, if you want to extend a line?

@overseastom You make a lot of good points. Thanks for sharing. I initially thought about adding info like this to the video, but the data shows that most people don't watch past a few min, so I was going to separate it into multiple videos.

@MrKayoed Yes, it is, and that works great for straight lines. However, it's not a good way to lengthen a curve, which is why I showed it in this video this way. I plan to make some other videos diving deeper into this subject. Thanks for commenting.

@RBourn9 Thanks for the comment. I did tell how I got the image into Plasticity. I said all you need to do is drag your image over the viewport and let go, and it will be placed into Plasticity.

@@philprocariojr3563 Thanks for the reply, I guess I missed that part.

@Contactbps That setting is completely dependent on the size of your model. In my case, the model is pretty small since it is for a miniature, so other people's settings could be different. Hopefully, over the weekend, I will make a more in-depth video about the settings, which should explain everything better. Thank you for the sub and the comment; I appreciate it.

@@philprocariojr3563 are you available on linkedin?

@Contactbps Yes, I am, although I must be honest, I don't check it as much as I should.

@Contactbps-I managed to get your video done and posted. I've taken an in-depth look at the settings. I hope it will help you out.

@@philprocariojr3563 Thanks a ton, i ll check it out right away! :)

You are correct, but as I told lew6598, I prefer more control over my width and depth. Another reason I don't use that method is that I like to leave behind a sketch reference in case I need it later for other operations. Thanks for leaving a comment.

Does it have the square feature at this moment?

@@whitardesigns7572 Yes.

Yes, you are right. I prefer not to use that method because I like having control over the width and depth of the panel lines. Additionally, it's important to be cautious of twist errors that can occur on curved surfaces at an angle - something I did not demonstrate in this video. Thanks for leaving a comment.

Thank you! Cheers!

I tried it before, but it didn't fit with other tiles due to dimensional issues. Also I have found that when resin printing flat the suction pulls the part off the build plate and ruins the print.

@@philprocariojr3563 you can use the flexi plates from wham bam. You can score them with sandpaper and than rise the bottom layer exposure (a lot) so the resin grips to the plate. No suction issues there. The prints just pop off the plate after washing them in iso-alco.

since I have no longer put flats on the build plate I have never had a print failure. also I found cylinders print better too.

@criticaltracetheory I print many things that must be dimensionally accurate, so I don't do it. I found that when I print with a flat on the build plate, it warps the part slightly, and my parts will not fit together. I do like the idea of a magnetic build plate, though, for popping off the prints when they are done.

@@philprocariojr3563 I had a magnetic build plate for the Ellegoo Mars. Same thing applies. Always support the part away from the build plate. That and keeping the resin proper warm.

@WARNER335 Sure, what program would you like to see it made in?

@@philprocariojr3563 wdym you mastered all softwares 😳👑 Btw if you make it on blender then it's really helpful to me.

@Warner335 I have been modeling for 40 years, so I have experience with Maya, Blender, Silo, Plasticity, ZW3D, 3D Coat, Zbrush, Lightwave 3D, Solidworks, & Fusion 360. So a bunch but not all. Do you want it on hard surface or something organic?

​@@philprocariojr3563that's insane sir, so now you have so many experience with all different types softwares, can you suggest me which software is better for creating 3d model? I mean I can switch to whatever you suggest me "what I mean by better is which software is easy to use for creating 3d model? And if there is no difference then please go ahead sir, I want an organic modeling! ❤️‍🩹

​@@philprocariojr3563btw I shared your channel with all my friends you are doing great job ❤️‍🩹🗿

Thank you for watching! I'm glad they helped. The models are game tiles for a Tabletop/Strategy/RPG I am developing.

I wanted to show how to go from a low polygon to a very high-resolution step by step. In the first set of video's, he had scales and teeth. In later videos, he will have teeth, scales, and other details. All of that will come in the sculpting phase. There are currently 71 videos in this series.

@@philprocariojr3563 Still...you ripped it. Why not start with the ball...?

Because a friend asked for me to do it this way, no other reason really.

Thank you! Cheers!

My pleasure, and thank you for the kind words!

@macropsialberto Your welcome! I'm glad that my videos are helping you.

@user-ig5gy4dq2f You mean the model or the project files (IE source materials)?

@@philprocariojr3563 yes!!!!!

Sorry I didn't see this, but I will probably release the files when it all done. As far as the source files I used you can download them now.

@samuunn That would work, but since the model is going to be sculpted after all the blocking in is done we don't need to use that in this case. Thanks for watching and giving feedback!

I figured it would be a good project for someone wanting more out of their 3d printer. Thanks for the kind words!

Your welcome, but just in advance, although i´m not a proffesional, caring much about your topoligy won´t be that important, i say that because most of the 3d printer meshes you can download have especially high poly count, which is probably so that it´s better for the printer to calculate. So in summary careing for topoligy wouldd make more sense in animation, but not in 3d printing (at least that´s what i guess from all those dense 3d Printer Meshes)@@philprocariojr3563

Sorry for the late reply, somehow I missed this comment. I agree about topology as far as static 3d prints go, but I plan to add a skeleton to this mesh and pose it so I need good topology for deformation. I also plan to do an animation with the model later so it is more of a dual purpose model.