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Are you referring to the Zone lighting? Yea those are pretty bright. Shame they dont work while driving above 5mph on the Bronco. You can pretty easily rewire them to the aux, I decided to test out dirt cheap (and I mean cheap cheap) LED's on amazon because I can 3D print anything pretty easily. Not because I thought they would be better, but because I liked the asthetic of using the trail sites as a corner light. They actually are reasonably helpful in the woods, I never made the claim they are better than proper ditch lights, but they sure look nice (IMO) as DRL's too.

@@UncleFjester working on the built part, making good progress! No hate for the other builders out there. What makes me sad is the bought and pavement only "builds"

@@Aldan001 first of all, I did not spend 80k on this Bronco, I spent 48k (stock). Also I'm absolutely not dismounting all my beadlocks twice a year just for winter tires which means I need a second set of wheels, not to mention the additional 37" winter tires. I live in Michigan, not Colorado. We get snow but nothing requiring winter tires. Everyone knows mud tires aren't the best for winter but it's not a death sentence either, don't be a hooligan.

@@Mtntime at the time of this video I just had the rough country 1" level. 2 plates up front, and 1 in the rear just to give it a touch more clearance for the 37's. Total lift was less than 1". Tried to keep it close to stock for ride quality and reliability.

I appreciate the sentiment. I like to push the limits where I can, so I need to be careful recommending what other people try, but if you ride dirt bikes, I assume you know a thing or two about wheeling. I tried taking harder lines on purpose for fun where I could, I was basically on stock sasquatch suspension. (badlands non-sas, but basically the same). I added a 1" level (2 plates front, 1 rear) and obviously added the 37's. If you have the Sasquatch package you could for sure do this no sweat. If you were in a non-sas OBX I still think you could do it but would have to be very choosy about your line in certain places and I'd recommend going with a buddy in that case.

@@mattg8116 Thanks for the reply! I think this will be a trip worth trying. Currently there is probably still snow on the trail. Seems like August is a safe bet to make the pass without snow most summers. Your trip in September was perfect. We were actually camping East Brush Creek that same time frame. Thanks for the info!

The front mount dropped by about 35mm but it already sat significantly higher than the lowest point of the diff. Since the centerline moved down 20mm, and the lowest point is still below the centerline (and approximately round) the loss in clearance right below the diff is about 20mm (~0.8).

This hill in the thumbnail? Yes if I tried to slow crawl it the tires just spun, didn't have enough bite. I didn't want to hit it with any momentum because I think I would have hit my spare tire too hard possibly ruining the tailgate.

I just used a thin cut off wheel on an angle grinder. Made sure to mark it all off with marker first. Some additional pictures of my exact cuts on the forum post.

www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/homemade-diff-drop-for-6g-bronco.89576/page-3 See page three (here) for a breakdown of my cuts

@@mattg8116 sweet. Thanks for this. Looks like the install is pretty straight forward. It can all be done with vehicle on the ground, right?

@@sinlab yes, I did mine on the ground with the help of a jack to support the axle

@@mattg8116 Sold! Order placed.

Yes, 2.3 manual

Will gladly test if you buy me a set😂. I bought the tires I wanted and decided to make a back to back comparison with no changes other than the tires.

so are you good to cut razor blade siping right to the edge of the tread block? some people are saying to stay 3/8 of an inch away from the edge of the tread so as not to induce chunking, but what you're saying about heat buildup makes more sense to me.

I don't doubt it, primary reason for going slow was trying to make it follow the OEM pattern and not accidentally make the grooves too long. But practice makes perfect!

I have one now, Engo 12k synthetic with lobo hidden winch mount. Haven't had to use it yet though.

I may try this. I've tried popping the bead with vehicle weight before, but my issue was getting purchase on the bead itself rather than just squishing the sidewall. Once I got the tool in the video "adjusted" it worked rather well, but it sure was a hassle to get it adjusted properly.

8:05 Bead off

I’m pretty confident in the Bronco’s capability! Haven’t broken anything yet, but even if I did, it would be worth it. Life’s too short to buy a cool car and park it in a showroom

In terms of cost, you usually can't beat used right? but if you're looking at new specifically the Bronco is very competitively priced. I got mine for 48k and it's a badlands, you could do even better by getting a base with sasquatch. (4runners can easily be ordered for more, and not a single version has that level of off-road capability. and a Wrangler new isn't substantially cheaper either.) As for the top. I placed my order back in spring of 2021 the exact moment order banks opened and at that time there was a significant delay in delivery for hardtops, so I opted for the soft top to get it sooner. I also like how easy it is to flip back.

SRQ fabrications. Good design, doesn't have a lot of unnecessary vents and shapes. Just a good solid bumper. They were great to work with too. I was able to order my bumper ready to go for swing out accessories to add later. Additionally they made a custom order for me so I could buy the raw components for the bumper swing out pivot, which enabled me to fabricate my heavy duty high clearance bike rack (I'll post more details on that on the forum). But overall, very pleased, great product and great people to work with!

"bone stock" means as built right off the factory floor. I didn't say "base model". Even so, this cost less than 50k!

Thanks! And no, I haven't added anything, but I do carry spare tie rods at all times. I recommend using minimal lift. Lift increases the worst case loading scenarios on your suspension as much or more than just bigger tires. I would much rather replace tie rods than replace my steering gear. I know some people have had good luck with braces and other add-ons but its not worth the risk to me. I off-road about as hard as I can, but I use my steering angle and skinny pedal conservatively whenever I am in big flex/rocky situations. If you are set on getting lift for the look, I recommend doing it with springs/perch collars so that you don't increase the droop (which can kill the tierods/steering gear). Puck/spacer lifts are a major risk factor for breaking stuff if offroading. I did end up using a 2/3" level spacer on the front (not ideal), I would go no more than 1" under any circumstances. Any higher and I would rather do a more comprehensive kit that keeps my steering geometry safer/flatter.

@@mattg8116 Really appreciate your response. I actually have an SVC 2” perch collar lift and since I have a BB I don’t disconnect the sway bar. That said, I do wheel with what I have, but nothing too crazy. I do have a RC tie rod sleeves and I’m probably gonna buy the steering bushings too. I always keep spare tie-rods, but more worried about the rack

0mm Offset. I would prefer something slightly positive but its very hard to find beadlocks (other than the OEM) that are positive.

For sure, but I wanted to be as apples to apples as possible on just tire size only moderately aired down. A different weekend I took the beadlocks down to 9 psi and it was insane! And obviously I can still go lower lol

2.3 (only option with manual). Wish you could get it with the 2.7 or even a diesel but the 2.3 is more than adequate and is still going strong on 37's

@@mattg8116 I have 10 speed 2.3 - drove 2.7 at Off-roadeo that was otherwise identical to mine (like yours but auto). I do appreciate the lower gearing (which you probably have) for the 2.7 - I rev a little high crawling and hear the turbo more than I like but very capable machine.

Name a common daily drivable 37" bigger than the Trepador... I'll wait. Why does one require a lift to wheel? I prefer better chassis dynamics/flex/strength. Why? Because I actually wheel it, pretty hard. I have a whole video up on doing poison spider bone stock, and obviously I don't film every adventure, I simply included a couple videos from adding the 37's to be informative to others. BTW mall crawlers are exclusively lifted rigs, you know this. We call them mall crawlers generally because they are lifted (often making suspension performance worse in key ways) and they never take it off road. (What's this video again?) Word of advice, if you hear metal on rock, it's not crawling at the mall... I'm curious why you thought it was worth your time to comment such negativity on a little channel that's just got a few fun videos... Grow up, get a stupid little cheap mall crawler lift for your Bronco so you can feel big and tough and move on.

Open to suggestions, SE Michigan is a bit limited for adventure but you can find some cool obstacles regardless

First time? Or first time with new tires? Testing is fun!

Lol, no. Obviously the clutch is more than fine, what are you getting at?

Thanks for the info, your comment part one is subjective, part 2 is objective and false, part 3 kinda objective and true. But no need for 3". 1" would be ideal. Without coilovers to increase travel in jounce (not available) there is no need for more body lift than 1" for 37's. Worth noting, my level kit is less than 1". So steering geometry is much better than most out there running any kind of lift. They literally work great so I'm not sure why you think they dont, but again thanks for your thoughts