- 7
- 87 610
MTB Suspension Tech
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 26 ธ.ค. 2022
FOX 38 Air Spring Service - Simple step-by-step instructions
Fork performing poorly? Lacking small bump compliance? Fork stuck low in its travel?
Follow these simple steps to carry out an air spring service on your Fox 38, and feel the huge improvement!
Follow these simple steps to carry out an air spring service on your Fox 38, and feel the huge improvement!
มุมมอง: 16 940
วีดีโอ
Fox 38 Fork Service - Simple step-by-step instructions
มุมมอง 55Kปีที่แล้ว
Easy to follow guide for a full service on your Fox 38 Fork. - How to service lower legs - How to remove and examine the air sleeve (without full air sleeve service - for detailed instructions to service air spring, see my other video: th-cam.com/video/0hqj6VTAwW4/w-d-xo.html ) -How to change damper cartridge oil
Fox DrCV Rebuild
มุมมอง 698ปีที่แล้ว
Timelapse of rebuild. Basic descriptions in Subtitles. Helpful: Shim stack: 6.8 Nm Oil: 10 wt IFP chamber: 350 psi
Rockshox Super Deluxe Thru Shaft - Air Can Service Step-by-Step
มุมมอง 8Kปีที่แล้ว
Air can service on a Rockshox Super Deluxe Thru Shaft shock. Turn on Subtitles for instructions! I used a strap wrench to separate body from yoke since I didn’t have a slim 25mm spanner.
At 3:56 you say fill with oil up to the bottom of the bleed hole, is it obvious where this is once dis-assembled? Thanks.
Yes it’s a large hole in the cartridge body, you can’t miss it.
Hi, before remove compression (and rebound) adjusters, i have to fully close or fully open them? Can't find this info, maybe it doesn't matter? Thank you for the answer!
Please fully open the adjusters (counter clockwise).
Can you do one of the 200H Service on this Shock?
Good idea, will do so in the near future.
Hi, what's your opinion about PTFE infused oil ? As I read here below, you don't specially recommend PTFE oil :-)
I’m definitely not against it, it’s a good oil but some some hard to get and/or expensive. The damper will work fine with most 5WT suspension oils.
Probably a really silly question, but do you have to heat the base of the shaft to remove the base stud from the airshaft? I'm worried about potentially overheating the airshaft surface or damaging the seal that sits inside the base stud? Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Yes you really do need to heat the shaft. There is a fair amount of Loc Tight on the base stud and that won’t be easy to remove if you don’t heat it.
The seal won’t be damaged if you don’t go crazy with the heat! 10 -20 seconds should be plenty
Chances are you’ll damaged the shaft and/or the stud if you try to remove without heating up because of the extra force needed to break the LocTight.
Can I use sram butter at 3:30 ?
yes, any suspension grease is perfectly fine
Yes, better than nothing
Can you use belt wrench instead of that aluminum damper body clamp?
Yes, but it won’t be easy!
Hi! How much oil need to put inside demper? (in ml) approximately
This depends on the size of the fork (27.5 /29) and also on the amount of travel. Best to just fill up as much as possible until it starts to seep out of the bleed hole on the side of the cartridge.
Is there a place to buy a bunch of lower leg crush washers?
These should be readily available online or ask your local shop to order you some.
Is there any alternative to the press to hold while unscrewing, and without drilling holes etc? Also, for the bullet tool, alternative? I noticed now its fully sucked down and cant solve it.. Fox 38 on new bike...
Sadly this is a common issue with new forks! Unfortunately I don’t have any alternative solutions for holding the shaft safely (wooden block split in half with appropriate size hole could work), however you don’t necessarily need the bullet tool if you can solve the Stuckdown without removing the shaft completely.
@@mtbsuspensiontech how would it be done then, because I understood i have to remove it completely. Or there is another way to solve suckdown. Its completely sucked in for me... I will have hard time clamping it anyhow, with or without tool 🫠
If you can find a way to safely clamp the shaft, it should suffice to remove the base stud which will release the excess air from the negative chamber. The downside of not removing and cleaning the whole assembly is that it could happen again.
Sorry to bore you, but could you maybe tell me a timestamp in your video where I can see to what you mean that base stud is...Since on one end is white cap, and on other end is the shaft you clamp in video. Thanks a bunch
1:10 shows how the base stud is removed. After this step, air can escape from the negative chamber, allowing you to fully extend the shaft again. After you have fully extended shaft, simply reinstall the base stud and your done.
Great explanatory videos, thanks for that! What red Loctite do you use? Does it need to be 262 or can it be any other similar (like 270)?
Thank you! I’m using Locite from a Germany company called Würth, but any will do!
Excellent video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Never in the world I would have thought that this would be so easy and fast. Thanks a lot
You're welcome!
is this sarcasmn?
@@spayrex_nah
@@FISHYY_MTBlmao
what kind/brand of torque wrench do you use?
I have two from Parktool (3/4“ and 1/2“) and one from Hazet (1/4“)
No need for O-ring and seal replacement?
Not really, unless you have air loss problems or have several thousand miles behind you.
is there a quad seal to replace inside the neg plate?
There is, but it’s not really necessary to swap unless you are loosing air or have several thousand miles behind you…
I have Fox 5wt oil that I've used on older Fox forks. It is not PTFE infused though. Can I still use it or do I need new PTFE infused oil instead? Thanks.
You can use any 5WT suspension oil!
@@mtbsuspensiontech Thanks for the quick reply.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome!
amazing man, tks. LIKE N' SUBSCRIBED
beatifull video!!! what is the serial number of air kit maintenance? tks!
803-01-487 38 Float NA2 Rebuild
@@mtbsuspensiontech tks a lot!!!!
Love this vid. Gave me the confidence to give it a go. Everything worked great except when I was done the h/l compression dials would turn. I followed a Fox vid and got into the dampeelr top cap. Seems my LS shaft is seized (won’t come out). Have no clue where I went wrong or what would cause that? Went down the rabbit hole on this. Air spring regrease (torch and all) went great. Any thought?
Hi Andy, thanks for the positive feedback! I have an idea what caused your compression dials to seize - it happened to a few times in the past too. When opening the screw which holds the compression dials, you may have inadvertently cranked open the screw against the pressure of the compression needle, rather than holding the dial and opening against the pressure of your fingers. Sounds complicated, but in end effect you just overtightened (in fact over loosened 🧐) the compression needle. With a bit of luck and care you can simply crank open the needle clockwise. Will need some Force and but not too much and don’t squeeze the head too much because you can easily crush it! Hope this helps!
@@mtbsuspensiontech I fixed it! I put a 4mm socket on the LSC coupler and turned it clockwise (slightest torque needed, more than my fingers could provide). Put it all back together. Smooth like hot butter. Not sure how I over turned the LSC (intially using palm on the topcap assembly during reassembly. Using 28mm socket much easier and safer). Fork is running smooth as warm butter now. Thanks for all the help and support.
Sir can i use dust wiper seals without flange as a replacement? Thanks
All newer Fox forks have wipers without flange 👍
@@mtbsuspensiontech thanks
My compression dials both high and low speed can’t move. Please help
Sorry I missed your comment - checkout some of my replies to other posts and I think you’ll find some useful tips!
The speed of this video makes it extremely difficult to follow along. Video should be .3x of what it is.
Very interesting and well done video. I only have one question about the GRIP2 service: the official FOX video (like other tutorials) indicates to push the cartridge rod upwards for 3/4 of its travel in order to release the excess oil. In other videos some don't. By pushing the rod up so much, wouldn't you risk letting too much oil escape from the cartridge? However, I suppose it is used to avoid adding oil to the 40cc PTFE already included in the FOX reference table. Thank you so much! K
I agree that pushing the shaft 3/4 of the way risks removing too much oil from the cartridge. I‘d rather have a few more ml of oil in the lowers than air in the cartridge. Unlike on the spring side, the damper side stantion is open and therefore provides plenty of space for any excess oil.
Thank you for that good instruction video. Glad I found the pedro tire lever ..its ordered 😎
What still baffles me after doing a 38 rebuild is equalization of the negative/positive. Doesn’t seem to be the case and if not rebuilt with the airshaft at full extension, you will have issues that cannot be resolved by pumping and cycling in increments.
Achieving equilibrium between the positive and negative chambers is still feasible after a rebuild without the shaft at full extension, but it becomes more challenging. First, extending the fork-instead of compressing it-is necessary to maneuver the air piston beyond the equalizing channel. Additionally, the force needed to compress the air within the smaller negative chamber is significantly higher compared to the compression force required for the much larger positive chamber. Effectively pumping and cycling the fork typically relies on the proper positioning of the airshaft, specifically, resting on or near the equalizing channel. In instances of even minor “Stuckdown,” where the fork does not rebound fully, it becomes necessary to extend the fork instead of compressing it to achieve proper equalization.
Great instructional video. What type of dust seal installation tool are you using? That doesn't look like a Fox model. Also, what FOX Lower Leg Removal Tool are you using? I don't see a version for the 38 Fork.
The tool I use is from Push Industries and I can highly recommend it! www.pushindustries.com/collections/suspension-oils-and-lubes/products/32mm-fork-seal-driver
@@mtbsuspensiontech Greatly appreciate the quick reply. Just found it. Any input on the lower leg damper tools? When I look at various sites none of them say they work on the 38mm fork. Kinda strange.
Sorry I missed the second part of your question - Both of the Lower Leg Removal Tools are from Fox: Spring side Part number 398-00-681 and Damper side Part number 398-00-682. Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for this video!! It is the one I watched when yesterday I did my first fork service, very concise and to the point and also now I finally understand what a damper service does :) Took me about 4 hours since I was triple checking everything, but next time will probably be half the time. I will add, for me the hardest part was removing the cap from the damper - it would just turn in the vice no matter how hard I clamped. I solved it by using carbon paste and in addition warming up the area of the thread to loosen the locktite.
Good Job - is there a link for that bullet tool? or a fox number?
Seems like a nice to have tool but not necessary? Will the shaft line up without it?
Thanks, I have a brand new 38 and it's super harsh. I pulled the lowers and the air shaft is completely sucked down.
Sadly, this is pretty common...
It worked. This is the only short to have ever been helpful in any way. Thanks.
Great to hear!
You can make the 170mm travel to be 180mm travel on a fox 38 factory kasima ?
That is far from what it should do to service that fork. Close enough but still pretty far. Hopefully u just did not fillmed the important things.
@1:36 Are all fox 38 air shaft rod hollow? That is part of the negative chamber?
@@mtbsuspensiontech Amen. Looking at the na2 air shaft assembly diagram, the air piston pin gap must face the base stud. So yes, it is indeed hollow. I wonder if the air shaft rod insides gets gunked up with grease too.
I've noticed that after every ride, a small amount of liquid (oil?) collects under the blue + 0 - compresion switch. Is there any o-ring there which need's to be replaced?
This is unusual, but yes there is an O-ring there which maybe damaged in your case.
I may do the lower oil change every 2 years. Full service $200 at Fox factory, NO. 4 times service I can buy a new fork. XD
Can you show how to remove/replace the damper shaft? Looking to swap to a 65mm stroke shaft on my 205x60 SDLX and it has been hard to find.
I'll make a video the next time I remove the shaft! Can I send to you directly?
Thank you for these videos! You rock !
Glad you like them!
Great work mate! I've ordered some tools and will tackle this myself with the help of this video. 👍
Great to hear!
how is the ball side ?
You mean the ball size? I will measure and let you know...
Un décapeur thermique est-il suffisant pour chauffer à la place du bec à gaz ?
Bonne vidéo !!
Super vidéo ! C'est la même chose pour une fox 36 j'imagine?
Yes, it’s almost exactly the same, only the air piston is a little different.
@@mtbsuspensiontech Ok, thanks !!
What is the service interval on a fox 38?
where can i buy the bullet tool? (not for 40 euro) XD
Hmmm good question... I don't know.
Hah that tip works percectly. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
yeah man, do a dhx2 plssss
Soon!
Your videos are amazing! Thank you so much.