วีดีโอ

I think some sort of cheap aluminum. I have real steel alloy versions that are sharp. Video coming soon!

Hello, thanks for watching! Yes, that is an option as well but it can be very messy.

@@angelomordini6779 new video on a version of these claws coming soon. I will put them on for the next one!

You got it. Ultra instinct Goku to be exact.

@MicBot I just printed goku, I found a hueforge goku directly after this vid. I also bought hueforge

Thanks for watching!

@@paulb6181 well it's unfortunate you are having difficulties, no need to take your frustrations out on my video. I have several Hueforge videos and I'm sure one of them can assist you. I am in no way affiliated to Hueforge, and I made these to help out people like yourself as I understand how complicated Hueforge can be.

Outdoor footage of this is 100% related to dust, bugs and debris

I don't remember off the top of my head, but I believe it was in the settings menu.

Definitely mG (milliGaus) typically you look on the lower end of the spectrum for spiritual activity. 0-20+ mG 20 range meaning there is a spirit touching you basically.

Keep in mind this video is over a year old. Ankermake has applied some new settings since then.

@@patriciadelaney2672 no worries thanks for watching. This was an overview video not a step by step instruction video.

I honestly don't remember but it should. Ide he very surprised if it doesn't. I returned this the next day after making this video as I did not like the camera.

Hello, here is the link th-cam.com/video/VbIeXnJuHU0/w-d-xo.html

@@MicBot muy agradecido

Thank for watching!

The ISO will evaporate. It's almost pure alcohol.

The QC can definitely use some work.

@@zergmare7 absolutely zero difference. I use a mix of filament brands, my go to is Eryone.

@@MicBot I was printing with clear pla and got bad results. So I was curious to know if you ever used clear pla and what your settings look like

@@zergmare7 transparent PLA is very difficult to print with. My advice would be to use similar settings to PETG.

@@MicBot gotcha, I'm still very new to bambu, so I'm thinking I might start with their filament, or at least watch videos on tuning filaments

@@zergmare7 if this is your first printer ever, then yes grab some Bambu filament, load up the bambu filament profiles in Bambu studio and slice away.

If I remember correctly, it was a spare.

@@MicBot ah okay

If it's Samsung remote, it should just work. Nothing to do.

No problem!

Yes it should.

@@MicBot ok thanks 😊

I can't compare to the Trifield TF2 but this one does seem fairly accurate. I am comparing it to the other two EMF devices that I have.

@@MicBot Sure because if those are also 40$ or so it is a comparison between probably the same cheap sensors.

@@MicBot not saying they are useless devices though. It depends on what you want to do.

@@Merializer that's a good point. For everyday consumer use, I believe these $40 ones are fine. For commercial or industrial use I would stay far away from the cheaper ones.

@@MicBot Well, for people like me who are sensitive to EMF these meters are not enough. For people who want to ghost hunt with it it's fine I guess, but I'm not into that. They can often measure strong EMF, which can be useful, but they measure incomplete for us.

It should come with everything you need.

@@MicBot not this refurbish one planning to get

It’s a dog tag not a name tag and it must’ve been different if you didn’t get it

Yes it works well. It's not perfect but it's a complete package.

@@MicBot I need an enclosed system for my sprinter van. I’m between this and the uniformation kit

@@demonhogo I just saw your thread on Reddit lol

@@roland2864 haha oh man. The flames there. I’m 1/2 way done building the shelves. It’s going to be epic

Good choice,I now have 12 Bambu printers myself. The best decision I ever made was getting rid of the two ankermake kick-starter printers I had and switching over to bambu. Honestly, I give anker make 3d printing department another year before they declare bankruptcy and shut it down. They messed up badly. Terrible printer, bad timing, too many mistakes back to back and unfulfilled promises. Unfortunately 3D printing manufacturing isn't cut out for every big company.

Coming soon!

I wouldn't be using it on Wi-Fi to begin with. I have mine hardwired.

Link in description

Thanks for watching! They take up quite a bit of space. I would say get a table that's at least 2.5 ft deep and 5-6 ft long.

@@MicBot ok, thank you. This really helps.

You're welcome!

I included the link in the description since everyone is asking .

Glad it helped

I haven't had any issues yet and it's too late for me to return it at this point.

This video is old and I was excited to get started with the new printer LOL

PLA has a life span of 1000 years. I would not worry about it.

Did you figure this issue out?

@@MicBot Yeah I just ended up buying a complete hotend and swapped it. The problem seemed to be the thermester wire

Hello, I will start by saying that I am not affiliated to any 3D printing manufacturers and my reply is based off personal experience. I started with an Ender 5 pro several years ago, I switched to Ankermake which was the biggest 3D printing mistake I have ever made. I ended up using my Ender 5 pro for a little longer. I then decided to try Bambu when they released it publicly. My first bambu was an x1c. Within a day of using it, I sold my Ender 5 pro and 2 Ankermake M5s. I now have 7 Bambu printers. So in short, 100% do not hesitate. It's worth every penny. No more tinkering and the printers just simply work. You get high speed prints at the highest quality possible and the option to add colour units. If you have the money, take advantage of the sale they have going on now. I highly recommend it. I have all there printers so feel free to ask me questions. My favorite is the X1C and P1S. The P1Ps, A1s and mini are great as well. They all have colour units on them.

@@MicBot thanks for the quick response. I am looking at the a1 right now but they are out of stock here in Los Angeles. Would the a1 be a mistake? Also are the print quality roughly the same through the models?

The A1 is decent and similar to the P1S. The A1 has a Hardened extruder while the P1S does not. It's a seperate upgrade for a Hardened one on the P1S. The A1 touch screen is also alot better then the P1S screen. The P1S has an enclosure, chamber fan and filter which will allow you to print ABS and ASA. It also uses the full size AMS which will give you 16 colour capabilities when you're ready for that. The A1 is permanently locked at 4 colours max. If the A1 is inline with your budget and you don't need any of the above mentioned then i'de say go for it. Its also alot easier to maintain and the parts are cheaper to replace. For example the nozzle change takes 30 seconds vs several minutes on the P1S.

@@MicBot what do you recommend between A1 with AMS lite or a P1S without AMS at about the same price? With a cheaper DIY enclosure A1 could print sometimes ASA and ABS?

Yeah it's the most painful part replacement out of all the possible bambu parts. I feel your pain