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Check the seals on the bulbs and make sure the dust caps are fully seated. The bulbs should fit fairly snug to prevent any outside air from entering the housing. If you have trapped moisture in the housing you will need to air it back out by removing the bulbs and letting it dry out. Then reinstall the bulbs and dust caps.

They have a very very slight rock but you have to be trying to make it sway. I have no issues driving with them and feel pretty secure. I would recommended the lower seat base if you install them with the spacers. There is a hack where you can install without the spacers but it requires cutting the frame.

The bulbs are only for 2023+ promasters. If you have a 2022 or lower the bulbs are different. Was there an issue when them?

Unaka HSLD. I have a video with link and installation here. th-cam.com/video/9m33eLmWojA/w-d-xo.html

Glad to hear they help. LEDs are so much brighter than the halogens. Before I could barely see the road it was so dim.

Thanks! I am hoping to get some new content here soon. I am moving to a new shop so I plan to have a few vids of that build out then back on the vans.

Yes I had to trim the plastic. For the model I have it's an electronic ebrake so no cables are there so yes in my case it can swivel.

Yes they do, I have scopema swivels installed on them.

Yes all models are the same by year.

@@RoamtechVans H11 for my 2023 Ram promaster, right?

@@lmaojasey921 it's 9005 for high and h11 for low beams amzn.to/3S1TBW1

Any time!

Wood should work just as good. Would have to test how it hold with urethane based glues though. The FuseIT should work well for that.

Thanks, I'll be sure to add that to a future test. I did end up using the 3M 08690, paired with the 3M single step primer for gluing the aluminum tubes down in my current build.

Holes are only needed if you want to reuse the plastic covers. Otherwise no need to drill the holes.

That's correct. Amazon doesn't have the correct bulbs updated in their systems for the 23+. They are 9005 and H11 for 23 and newer.

I forgot to mention that the bulbs I originally used in the video was no longer available on Amazon so I had to update the links to an updated version which is pretty much the same thing.

@@RoamtechVans You da man..

@@RoamtechVans You da man twice!

Technically yes you could as it runs on a 12v system but all the other components needed to get it running would take quite a bit of space in the van. You would need a 12v inverter plugged into shore power or a bank of batteries if you wanted to run this offgrid all night. This would drain the starter battery in hour or less depending how many amps is it.

The latch can be adjusted "pushed back" more so that when the door shuts it can grab tighter. The issue I had was I had adjusted all the latches as far back as they could go but it still leaked at the top seal when sprayed with the hose. The only way I could get it to stop was to do that trick of expanding out the seal I did in the video.

@@RoamtechVans that worked! Thanks a million!

No wasnt sure the ASTM spec. I just tried to run it constantly. I did a part 2 of the glue tests that brought better results. th-cam.com/video/WgHdi2-5jGM/w-d-xo.html

No problem!

Yes you would be correct if the panels all matched in voltage, but in this case the 50 watt panels operate at 19 Volts and the 250 watt operate at 24 Volts. If they were connected in parallel the 250 watt panels would operate at 19 Volts losing wattage. Which is why I have to run each set to a different charge controller to get the full wattage. In the end calculation, wattage is still the same whether its connected in series or parallel. Watts = Volts x Amps.

Did you connect the panels and series or in parallel? If you put them on the series that 90 V right? That would be the most efficient hook up.

Спасибо

I might create a follow up video to show testing amps and watts. I tested amps inside the shop but it wasn't on video. Based on that the (2) 250 watt panels were pulling around 1-2 amps and around 48v inside with my shop LED lights on. Which is about 48 -96 watts.

I had forgot to film the current check outdoors. I did run a current check indoors on the multimeter which did say it was pulling 1-2Amps with the shop LED lights on it.

Thanks! Its a really power efficient unit as well. Next vid will show case the solar panels with it on the roof. It'll look pretty slick.

Thanks. You should be able to get away with the 3" overhang as that is not too much. It would be noticeable though if you don't mind the visual appeal of the over hang as compared to a flush mount hidden panel. You could maybe fab up some kind of trim piece to make the transition from rack to panel overhang more smooth.

@@RoamtechVans Thank you for your input and advice. I will look into that.

Yes I did try to adjust the latches as far as they could go inward. It still wasn't enough to create a tight seal. Doing this also made the door hard to shut. You would have to slam them closed pretty hard to get it to catch the latch. Even went as far as ordering a new weather seal thinking it was defective. That didn't work either. This was simplest solution I could think of to make the seal touch the door with a good seal.

Nope, it doesn't matter what side. I put it on the passenger side because my driver side has a window awning on it. Also it doesn't have to be center of the door either. I think I moved it about 9" off center so it isn't blocking the rear view camera.

Thanks!

Its from 8020 called Quick Frame. In Part 1 (th-cam.com/video/0QdAgWjt4j8/w-d-xo.html) I show how the frame was made and all materials used.

Hey what was the black cover you placed before the plywood

Its a closed cell foam underlayment. I use it as a moisture barrier and thermal break for the subfloor. I added it to the description with link to it on Amazon.

@@RoamtechVans Great work you are doing, Thanks for the quick response.

@@RoamtechVanshmmm… I’ve never seen it used for floor framing.

No problem. Will do!

Yes I can take a look at the back up lights tomorrow and do a LED upgrade vid.

Thanks for the notice. I just fixed the link to an identical combo kit. It looked like they stopped selling the version I had originally posted.

Send me a email at sales@roamtechvans.com and I can get you quote put together for a framing kit.

Yes, on our current build we have 1/2" plywood on it.

I'm looking to do expedited deliveries. With your framework I could insulate the floor/plywood/e-track..

At the moment it's not offered for sale as a complete kit, but we do plan in the future of offering items to help speed up the build process. If you are interested I can piece together a kit for you as a one off.

It does have a built in wifi access point.

Thanks!

Yes I could see in different cases how it would not be favorable. I'm only using it in van builds so the distance from the electronics isn't that far away so extending a couple wires isn't too bad in my installs.

Wich chinesse screen do you buy ?

Yes I agree. That was the only thing I saw with this unit having to run all the wires to it. Placement of the unit is key to keep wiring minimal. Hoping to get to electrical soon. I just finalized the subfloor design so electrical is a few steps away.

You can use a USB hub to add more ports.

jan24'24/2316h 🇺🇸 @ Tom18181, I second that. I'm not being negative, but the only thing about Ekrano-GX is it has 7" screen. That convenience can be, still, had through iPad 11" and better. $600 plus. hmmmm doubtful. Cerbo-GX is best. The main reason is that, the small wonder is so compact and wired to internet, all users can view on iPhone/ iPad devices, any where in the world. 11" full view as opposed to 7". I've Cerbo-GX for the past 4 years and I travel overseas quite a lot. I view my system every day every hour on my iPad.Once again I'm not being negative.

Addendum to the above. All PV systems can also be viewed on 75" LG smart TV in 4kHD. Thanks to Cerbo-GX

I found only on the passenger side you could use the access door as it has a plastic guard cover under the bumper. The driver side is wide open underneath for direct access, no need to mess with the access door. Initially I tried using the access door and found it was tricky to maneuver around, but eventually could be clipped back on.

The fogs were not too bad to get at. You can reach from under the bumper and see them. I thought I had the fog install in this video. I will see if I can post another video of the fog install.

I just posted the fog light install video to my channel. th-cam.com/video/017w2RHYHg0/w-d-xo.html

My led light just arrived. The install was easy. I didn’t have to remove the light fixture. I could just reach in and remove the dust cover and bulbs.

Do you know where the up/down adjustment is? The left/right is right on top

Yeah after installing I noticed they don't need to be removed since there was quite a bit of space.